Hi pinsiders can you help??

I was replacing a plunger spring and in my foolish rush I believe I bent the flasher socket lugs together on the playfield back board, on this backboard there is six flashers (and a diverter).

So after enjoying my freshly sprung plunger and a few minutes of play I notice the shaker motor and flashers are not working, fuse f111 (flasher secondary)is replaced and blows again immediatly.

I check over for loose wires etc and discover the bent lugs on some of the flasher sockets, a closer look and I have slightly melted the flasher domes too, at least I think this was me as I have only had this machine a short time. (the bulbs did not blow and were tested in another machine).

I keep looking for reasons why the fuse keeps blowing I disconnected the backboard flashers, also the shaker motor too.

I notice in the back box, the auxillay driver pcb assembly (a-16100-2) has 2 leds and only number 2 is on, led number 1, which I believe is +5volts is out..... should this led be on?????

Any help would be appreciated

Forgot to mention, no errors on start up and the game plays fine execpt for the lack of flash lamps and shaker motor.

I have changed the BR4, now it has stopped blowing fuses but I still can't get the flashers or shaker motor to work.

Back to the drawing board for me.......

I think I tested correctly.... I do not have that result, it was only reading 1.4

Yes, will check tomorrow.

Is it possible that the C11 capacitor could be at fault too?

Thanks robertmee, it's all very confusing and frustrating!

But I know I'll feel like a king when it's fixed again.

Yes, so after another quick look this afternoon it does appear that I have lost my 20 volts as shown by LED indicator(5) on the driver board being out.....

DOH !!!!!

So just need to find out how to get it back on, also tested the driver transitors for the flash lamps and shaker motor these all test good.

I have changed BR4 (this somehow appears to have stopped the fuse f111 continually blowing) and will change out C11 capacitor when it arrives hopefully tomorrow.

I still wonder about the +5 volt LED indicator on the Aux driver board... should this be on???

here's the latest..

I find it impossible to test the BR legs while in the backbox.

On my driver board the voltages are as follow

TP1- 14.5V should be 12
TP2- 4.9V should be 5
TP3- 11.9V should be 12
TP4- 0.4V don't know what this tp should be
TP6- 74.5V should be 50
TP7- 0.6 should be 20
TP8- 16.5 should be 18

Some where between the driver board and the aux driver board I have lost 5v, I plan to change the bridge and capacitor when more spares come.

For the missing 20v I have changed the BR and cap already and no change, other than the fuse stopped blowing, so for now it has me stumped.

Should I be worried about the 50 volt tp reading 74.5?

Any Ideas???

EDIT.

I (think) I have 5v going into the aux driver board, I just tested a plug that goes into this board and 5v and 12v are both there, but only the 12v registers and its corresponding LED lit.... while the 5v LED stays blank.

Gonna do some reading on the +5v circuit and see if this can influence my other probs.

Thanks again robertmee, I guess as I can still play the game that the 5v issue possibly isn't really an issue, good call on maybe a burnt LED.

Nice tips I'll give them a bash tomorrow

I tested the BR with the following results,

Top left pin 1v DC
Bottom left pin 23v
Top right pin 22v AC
Bottom right pin 35v

Ok I got 17volts AC and then 16volts DC

Does this sound good??

:DFIXED!!!!

OMG, after 4 frantic days and nights pulling my hair out, reading, checking, studying, waiting for parts, checking, re- checking, more reading, sleepless nights..... over and over.

BIG thanks for robertmee for sticking with it and me.

YES, YES , YES!!!!!!!!!

Well the answer was already there, but in my haste I did a poor job of soldering and my problem stayed.

I had replaced the BR4 and associated capacitor C11 and those two parts had fixed the lack of 20v for flash lamps and shaker motor, but due to shoddy soldering the first time round my fix didn't work. I know this as I have just RE-SOLDERED those again and now I'm back on track with a fully functioning machine.

Lesson learnt, slow down, it's an obsessive hobby not a race.

On a side note, the slightly melted flasher domes were damaged long before I had this game, this became apparent when looking at the Aux driver board and discovering a replaced transistor, this transistor was for the flashers with the melted domes.

Advice for Roadshow owners, be carefull when lifting playfield as the flasher lugs are very close to the wiring loom at rear of cab.

Thanks Pinsiders.