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(Topic ID: 253772)

Roadshow Buying Advice


By jjbeck12

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by jjbeck12
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

I’m going to check out this Roadshow on Sunday and am looking for advice on what things look for when I check it out and what amount is a fair offer for it.

I’m pretty new to the hobby, I bought my first pin earlier this year, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

https://us.letgo.com/en/i/pinball-machine_e2c701df-d944-4cc4-8866-a0675d0399b9?fbclid=IwAR3w-gryNfHouFcQwLR_NZ7aqG8S_kVXm1CzVQtukuUfEY2Z-wxyWvxjwxU&pid=af_app_invites&position=feed&utm_content=button_feed&utm_source=web&af_sub4=feed&utm_medium=messenger&utm_campaign=feed-share-share&af_channel=messenger&af_siteid=web&c=feed-share-share

#2 1 year ago

That looks pretty nice. At least what's visible from the two pics.
As with any game, run switch and solenoid tests. A few RS specific thoughts.
Check that both Red and Ted heads work, mouths and eyes. Those are a pain.
Check that the dozer blade works and that the sensors in front and behind it detect the ball. There's also a third eddy sensor right in front of Red.
The area on the playfield just in front of the kickout hole gets a lot of wear. Look for wear near the fish picture.
Not sure what a fair price is these days with pinflation. The posted price looks a little high to me.

#3 1 year ago

Really not near enough pictures to determine the overall condition but a really nice one with little playfield wear and a nice cabinet and everything working should be in the 3000-3300 range without a color DMD.

#4 1 year ago

What the above posters said.

RS is a fun game, however, when they come up for sale in the bay area I've noticed they tend to sit for quite a while. There was one for sale in Sac for $3,500 firm on CL that sat on there for months (I doubt they sold it, so it will probably pop up again). So for me, price would be key. If there are no obvious issues, I would probably pay $3,100 maybe $3,200 tops if its in fantastic shape. but that is me, I would check it out, play it and gauge your own comfort level.

Definitely play close attention to red and ted, some of their parts are nearly impossible to find, so I'd want them to be in good shape.

#5 1 year ago

Thanks for the tips! Yeah, I went and looked at the one in Sac listed for $3,500 and wasn't impressed. The guy selling the pin didn't know anything about, I guess it was his Dad's. He'd just had the battery and some boards replaced because the old batteries leaked and the machine wasn't working. Even though he had those replaced, the back lights weren't working, the playfield was pretty dirty, and it just didn't feel right when I played it so I left without giving him an offer.

I'm pretty excited to see this one, these guys told me that they've owned this roadshow for 15 years and they've had it serviced by the pinball pirate (the last time was 2 years ago). That makes me think that it hasn't been used and abused a ton and us hopefully in great shape. I figure I'll check it out and see if everything looks and feels good then I'll try to get a sense as to why they're selling and if they're willing to come down a bit in price. I'd like to spend $3K or less. I've been wanting a DMD machine for around $3K for a few months now and have been talking myself out of machines thinking I need to get the perfect title in perfect shape. I've come to the conclusion that I just need to pull the trigger on the next good one that I find (that's a reasonable price) and the worst thing that can happen is I don't want to keep after awhile and then I can always sell it and get a different one.

There's also a T2 and a Dirty Harry that another guy is selling for a little over $3K that I'll check out if this one doesn't work out. Apparently the guy selling them has been routing them so I don't know if that's a reason to avoid them or if it's not a big deal.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from jjbeck12:

Apparently the guy selling them has been routing them so I don't know if that's a reason to avoid them or if it's not a big deal.

No big deal. 99.9999999% of 90's games were routed at some point. Condition matters, location doesn't. Better care and maintenance by a knowledgable operator than an ignorant homeowner.

All three great games. Get the one that you like best.

#7 1 year ago

That one in Sacramento is the best deal on Craigslist. How do I know? It says so in the ad title. I had noticed that ad when they first put it up and were asking $5,000. Completely clueless about the value so it's not surprising that it is not in very good shape. One of the nice things about buying from a pinsider is that they are more likely to understand what the game is worth and know what is and isn't working.

That other game looks promising but it's hard to tell from two photos. I wish people knew to take the glass off and take close ups of the playing field.

I have never looked on Letgo, I'll have to check that out.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

What the above posters said.
RS is a fun game, however, when they come up for sale in the bay area I've noticed they tend to sit for quite a while. There was one for sale in Sac for $3,500 firm on CL that sat on there for months (I doubt they sold it, so it will probably pop up again). So for me, price would be key. If there are no obvious issues, I w CB ould probably pay $3,100 maybe $3,200 tops if its in fantastic shape. but that is me, I would check it out, play it and gauge your own comfort level.
Definitely play close attention to red and ted, some of their parts are nearly impossible to find, so I'd want them to be in good shape.

Just curious, what parts are hard to find? They should be interchangeable with Rudy who people rebuild all the time, do that have something extra?

#9 1 year ago

The faces are impossible. left ramp as well. Ive seen the right ramp one time.

#10 1 year ago

Road show was one of my favorite pins.
Look for wear around the fish.
The eyes are the biggest concern.
They should look left, right up and down.
When the game is over they close.

They aren't as hard as people say to fix, but if you start a game and they don't open, you are going to need money off the price.

#11 1 year ago

Make sure shaker is present and working.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Road show was one of my favorite pins.
Look for wear around the fish.
The eyes are the biggest concern.
They should look left, right up and down.
When the game is over they close.
They aren't as hard as people say to fix, but if you start a game and they don't open, you are going to need money off the price.

Just to clarify: the eyes move left to right, the eyeLIDS move up (openwide) and down (closed).

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

Just to clarify: the eyes move left to right, the eyeLIDS move up (openwide) and down (closed).

You are right, my bad.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from jjbeck12:

I’m going to check out this Roadshow on Sunday and am looking for advice on what things look for when I check it out and what amount is a fair offer for it.
I’m pretty new to the hobby, I bought my first pin earlier this year, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
https://us.letgo.com/en/i/pinball-machine_e2c701df-d944-4cc4-8866-a0675d0399b9?fbclid=IwAR3w-gryNfHouFcQwLR_NZ7aqG8S_kVXm1CzVQtukuUfEY2Z-wxyWvxjwxU&pid=af_app_invites&position=feed&utm_content=button_feed&utm_source=web&af_sub4=feed&utm_medium=messenger&utm_campaign=feed-share-share&af_channel=messenger&af_siteid=web&c=feed-share-share

If you end up buying a RS and need help, send me a PM. I've got my dads sitting in my garage, and I've had more than my share of experience working on them. The heads aren't not as bad as people make them to work on, but pulling Ted out can be a major PITA.

#15 1 year ago

Thanks again for all the tips everyone! I checked the pin out tonight and everything was in working order, both Red's and Ted's heads are working well, he actually had Red's head rebuilt a couple of years ago, and all the sensors were working properly. The seller said that it has the shaker and it works but he had his technician turn it off because he was in an apartment and wanted to keep the noise down as much as possible, so I didn't test it out. Is it easy to turn the shaker motor back on? I assume it's an option in the menu? The area in front of the kickout hole does have some wear but I don't know if there's anything to do about that, but the rest of the playfield was in good shape. The cab has a few dings and peeling here and there but seems to be decent overall.

I played and game and everything felt great! All the flippers worked well with solid strength and all the shots felt good. It honestly is the best one I've played (I've only played 3 or 4 but having a few others to compare it to made me feel confident about buying it). I offered $2,800, he countered with $3,000 and we settled on $2,900. It's sitting in the back of my van in my driveway but my wife is sound asleep so I don't have any help me unload it! Unfortunately I've got to work tomorrow so we'll see if we get up early enough in the morning to unload it or if it doesn't happen until tomorrow evening. Apparently the pin was originally in a Russian bar and it's instructions are still in Russian so that's interesting.

@dsuperbee, thanks for the offer, I really appreciate it! I'll hit you up if I have any issues after I get it set up. I'm a complete noob when it comes to pinball machines so I'll need all the help I can get! I'll be sure to post some pics as well as soon as it's up, I don't know who's be more excited for it, me or my 7 and 5 year old boys!

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from jjbeck12:

Thanks again for all the tips everyone! I checked the pin out tonight and everything was in working order, both Red's and Ted's heads are working well, he actually had Red's head rebuilt a couple of years ago, and all the sensors were working properly. The seller said that it has the shaker and it works but he had his technician turn it off because he was in an apartment and wanted to keep the noise down as much as possible, so I didn't test it out. Is it easy to turn the shaker motor back on? I assume it's an option in the menu? The area in front of the kickout hole does have some wear but I don't know if there's anything to do about that, but the rest of the playfield was in good shape. The cab has a few dings and peeling here and there but seems to be decent overall.
I played and game and everything felt great! All the flippers worked well with solid strength and all the shots felt good. It honestly is the best one I've played (I've only played 3 or 4 but having a few others to compare it to made me feel confident about buying it). I offered $2,800, he countered with $3,000 and we settled on $2,900. It's sitting in the back of my van in my driveway but my wife is sound asleep so I don't have any help me unload it! Unfortunately I've got to work tomorrow so we'll see if we get up early enough in the morning to unload it or if it doesn't happen until tomorrow evening. Apparently the pin was originally in a Russian bar and it's instructions are still in Russian so that's interesting.
@dsuperbee, thanks for the offer, I really appreciate it! I'll hit you up if I have any issues after I get it set up. I'm a complete noob when it comes to pinball machines so I'll need all the help I can get! I'll be sure to post some pics as well as soon as it's up, I don't know who's be more excited for it, me or my 7 and 5 year old boys!

No problem!

Shaker motor is able to be turned on and off in the menu, and depending on your ROM, can have the intensity increased or decreased. Speaking of ROMS, I highly recommend the new rom set that allows you to change where you start in the US. With the normal Romset, you start in Miami or NY, and it gets boring fast.

I would also recommended turning off the blinking options for the heads. It just increases wear in parts that will break sooner or later.

I can probably help with the wear in the kickout area. I have rebuilt plenty of scoops locally including my own, and am pretty decent at paint matching.

If you need any help, just reach out. Always willing to help out locals

Updated roadshow ROMS:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-road-show-software-mod

#17 1 year ago

I think the kick out may have a cliffy available. I know on my last road show one of the spots had one.

#18 1 year ago

Road Show is a great game... sounds like you got a fairly good deal on it as well.

Have fun with it!

#19 1 year ago

You can buy a decal to cover up the fish wear. I don’t remember where or know if it’s still available, but I can do a quick check.

#20 1 year ago

Bay Area Amusements has the full decal sets with the fish included

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Road Show is a great game... sounds like you got a fairly good deal on it as well.
Have fun with it!

Agree! good job on talking them down. $2,900 given the condition you described sounds like a good deal. Congrats on the new game!

#22 12 months ago

I got the machine set up last night and finally got a little time to post some pics tonight.

So everything was working great yesterday and then I was fiddling with the menu and tests today and when I ran the tests on Ted they didn’t seem to work. After, I played a game and the bulldozer sensor was going nuts constantly sensing and then ever sense then the bulldozer sensor isn’t working. I fiddled with the potentiometer on the Eddy board but still couldn’t get it to work. Any ideas on what I need to do to get it working again?

Other issues I’ve noticed, the volume up button inside the coin door doesn’t work, and the left flipper button seems soft/weak compared to the right. It doesn’t have the same resistance that the right bottom has and it doesn’t get pushed out as far after I push it. It still seems to work the flippers fine and the flippers appear to have a decent amount of strength. Any ideas on why the flipper button is like this and how to get the volume up bottom to work?

Also, I turned on the shaker motor on and plugged it in and it works. However, it’s not attached to the cabinet at all and it sounds odd to me being loose like that. Is that how it’s supposed to be or should it be attached?

I’m having fun both playing and fiddling around with it so far! I’d really like to get that bulldozer sensor working again soon since it’s such a big part of the game though.

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#23 12 months ago

Shaker Motor should be screwed to the cabinet.
Eddy sensor boards are notoriously fickle. You could try the auto calibrating ones from pinbits.
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=203&zenid=2a4e301d7f5d54bbde8ed67b58f96f0d
My shaker below.

IMG_3891 (resized).JPG
#24 12 months ago

The left flipper button looks stock, the right does not - it looks like an arcade pushbutton. Pinball flipper buttons do not have an internal spring, and the 'return' action is provided by the flipper switch mounted inside the cabinet (for fliptronic games, its the actuator arm). Arcade pushbuttons do have an internal spring that 'returns' the button, so I think you are feeling the spring + actuator = stiffer.

#25 12 months ago

Gonna want to glue that left side of the cab, its split, and will only get worse.

The start city scoop isn't too bad either. Cliffy sells a protector for that scoop. But it will need to be repaired, or,the protector will bend in short order.

Eddy sensor is easy to adjust. With the game on, turn the adjustment counterclockwise until the light comes on. Once it's on, turn clockwise until the light just goes off. That's it!

#26 12 months ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Eddy sensor is easy to adjust. With the game on, turn the adjustment counterclockwise until the light comes on. Once it's on, turn clockwise until the light just goes off. That's it!

So I did this a few times and the sensor still didn’t work. Any ideas on what to do next?

Thanks for the heads up on glueing the cab! How much to I need to take the machine apart to glue it?

#27 12 months ago

I've reglued corners like that plenty of times without disassembling. Use a syringe to inject some brand name wood glue deep into the joint, and use a corner clamp to hold it together for a few days. Titebond is my preferred choice. Do NOT use any kind of expanding poly glue such as gorilla glue.

-Hans

#28 12 months ago
Quoted from jjbeck12:

So I did this a few times and the sensor still didn’t work. Any ideas on what to do next?
Thanks for the heads up on glueing the cab! How much to I need to take the machine apart to glue it?

Swap the board with the one for behind the bulldozer to see if it's the board or the sensor that's bad. That way you aren't spending extra money if you don't need to.

#29 12 months ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Swap the board with the one for behind the bulldozer to see if it's the board or the sensor that's bad.

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I’m totally new. Can I just unplug the two blue wires from each board and plug them in the other boards? Also, does the red light being on on this other board mean anything? Thanks!

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#30 12 months ago
Quoted from c_mario:

My shaker below.

IMG_3891 (resized).JPG

That is one beautiful cab you've got there!

#31 12 months ago
Quoted from SimpleSam:

That one in Sacramento is the best deal on Craigslist. How do I know? It says so in the ad title. I had noticed that ad when they first put it up and were asking $5,000. Completely clueless about the value so it's not surprising that it is not in very good shape. One of the nice things about buying from a pinsider is that they are more likely to understand what the game is worth and know what is and isn't working.
That other game looks promising but it's hard to tell from two photos. I wish people knew to take the glass off and take close ups of the playing field.
I have never looked on Letgo, I'll have to check that out.

Down to 2800 now - still best deal on Craigslist!

#32 12 months ago
Quoted from jjbeck12:

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I’m totally new. Can I just unplug the two blue wires from each board and plug them in the other boards? Also, does the red light being on on this other board mean anything? Thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, shouldn't be a problem.

#33 11 months ago

So I swapped the boards a few times and determined that the sensor was fine, the issue was the board. I bought the pinbits board suggested by @c_mario, installed it tonight and it's working great! The new board is a little larger than the original so it didn't fit the previous screw holes but we were able to fit it in there. Next I need to screw the shaker motor to the cab and glue the front left corner of the cab back together. I appreciate everyone's help!

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