Hardly something you would toss a game out for, but if you do give me a heads up and I will leave a pile of cash in place of where you leave the game.

Since the problem happened after moving the game, the most likely cause is something got shaken up, such as a cable disconnected. Check to make sure everything is well connected. Push on cable harness connectors, and with the power off gently press on all the integrated circuit components to make sure they are seated ( "chip creep" ) It sounds like this game is in need of some general maintenance. Check power supply fuses, and get a DMM/Voltmeter to check on all the power supply voltages. Read up the guides on "repairing System 11" games too. Lots of info there. If the game has batteries onboard, they may have shaken loose, causing settings to be lost. If your game has coin door coin acceptor switches, manually move one of those to try to add credits to the game to see if startup works. All hope is not lost!

Hi, I'm getting the same sound after replacing the batteries in my Road Kings machine. Brand new batteries installed, factory reset done in the menu, and now I get that sound when I push the exterior start button. Game doesn't start. I dropped a quarter in and it gave me a credit, but didn't start up. Machine is set to free play. Will let you know if I figure it out.

I pulled the 3 batteries and replaced them with new. Paying extra attention to be sure they were seated properly. Then did factory reset in the menu. I now am able to advance the game to 2 player, 3 player, etc., and no longer get that noise that sounds like a motorcycle revving. But the ball doesn't "kick" out to start play. When doing the self test, only a few parts fire. I ordered a fuse tester and an assortment of glass fuses. On another machine I own, when the ball wouldn't advance to start the game, the fuse under the playing surface was blown. This machine has two fuses under the playing surface so I'm going to start with those two.

Check ALL the fuses. Pull them out to make sure they are physically intact and the rating is correct - both amperage and fast acting vs. slow blow. Fuses can fall apart with the metal end caps separating from the glass, they can be fractured in the fuse holder clips and you wouldn't even know it. This will also test the integrity of the fuse clips, as the can crack, or just simply be expanded and not putting pressure on a fuse. Then use a DMM/Voltmeter to check each side of the fuse for proper voltages.

As far as the the ball not kicking out to start play, run both a switch and coil tests and note any non working switches and coils in a list. If the the ball trough feeder solenoid #2 is not kicking, take your meter to check for the presence of DC solenoid power at the the solenoid tabs. That's half the equation, the solenoid has to have its operating voltage sitting there, then the other half is when the solenoids transistor switch makes a connection to ground, then the solenoid fires. This should get you started on the troubleshooting process.