<redacted - mistakenly thought Whirlwind was sys 11 like Earthshaker>

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-road-show-interlock-amp-memory-protect-switches#post-7534738

This isn't a specific Road Show problem. Any machine with an interlock switch will be wired the same way.

Honestly, if you just took the time to post an image of what you have, you will get a solution to your problem much faster.

I don't understand why people who post in this forum always ask for someone else to post an image and they won't post an image themselves. How can you ask someone else to do MORE work than you're willing to do to help you solve your problem?!?!?!?!

wpc_interlock_wiring_diagram.jpg

That's System 11. Completely incorrect for this machine. This machine is a WPC-S machine.

Those services switches are THREE BUTTON. That's System 11. You have a FOUR BUTTON. That's WPC. System 11 is NOT relevant to WPC.

I might be a DumbAss but I think you need to post images of the WIRING not the switch. I know what switches are what and I know what is supposed to connect where. I just need to see what you have in your machine. Everything you've written suggests that you do NOT have an interlock tap.

I want to help you but you have to help me to help you.

Original post quoted:

Some machines were either manufactured without the interlock cabling (I have no proof of this other than the cabling is missing) or the cabling was removed by an operator (again, I have no proof because none of this stuff was documented).

Post some images of the transformer and the wiring / cables around it. There should be a "tap" in the transformer secondary bundle. The tap should have the WHT-RED and BLK-YEL wires coming off it to the coin door interlock switch.

He was replying to the same person you did - showing the wrong switches. Don't need to be so harsh there.

Starting mid-run of Twilight Zone, all WPC games had an interlock switch. So, yes, his machine should have had them. And he's saying they're gone completely. And yeah, as an ex-operator... we got rid of them. It's a jumper cable, with two inline molex plugs. Unplug both ends of the jumper harness, and connect the other two back up - voila, instant hot +50v and +20v when door is open.

That pic is what you need, and DumbAss posted the schematics - which are also available in PDF online. (NOT in your game's manual, but in the WPC Schematics PDF. This was a separate released manual for WPC/WPC-95 games, yeah.)

Since you don't say exactly what you want (are you trying to just get the game running? Or are you wanting to faithfully restore how it came from the factory?) you can create your own harness, buy switches and mount them all up, or connect the transformer secondary molex to the cabinet molex plug, and have a working game.

You're right. I'm just frustrated when I posted TWO WEEKS ago providing help that was just ignored. Then another thread with EXACTLY THE SAME REQUEST is posted after ignoring the help. This seems to happen to me a lot. Maybe I should just stop helping people. Hmmm. That's a good idea. I'll take my own advice.

I know that frustration and you've helped a hell of a lot more folks than I have here.

raw (resized).png

Oh, not disagreeing in the least. Especially when info and help WAS given in the other thread, and he never seemed to reply.

You do tech support, you'll see a lot more.

Please don't. The ones that need your help and heed it, will be grateful. As will I and many others.

You aren't. And people recognize your posting name and read your posts.

Some days you just need a sense of humor about some of this. Especially if it's a new person trying to help, no matter how wrong the help is. Correct them and hope they continue to help and learn to help better.

A couple weeks ago your help was ignored ? Hell I had more than that before breakfast or coffee this noon. And it runs in streaks. Next time it will be something different. They ignore, they know better than you, why is it smoking now.

Tech support isn't a job. It's an adventure. That is why we make the big bucks.

Incidentally your boards. Any chance for plaid or paisley or a nice tie dye look ? I'm tired of red or green.

See, you feel better already.
LTG : )

Unrelated to road show but a big thank you to you, and everyone else that offers help on pinside.
I know that my son and I couldn’t have gotten our garage unit finds Kings of Steel or Playboy back working again without help from people like you on these forums.
Please know that help from more seasoned pinball restorers like you is so very very appreciated. Ie. Please don’t stop helping.
(We had been looking at a road show hence I checked this forum). Have a good night.

Apologies - redacted my response

It's ok to not know and ask for clarification. It's also ok to challenge with the question "why?".

If you're still stuck then, humor me and post images of the inside of the cabinet. Near the transformer and the wiring along the left side of the cabinet. There should be a few connectors near the transformer secondaries. Those are of interest to me as well.

Not quite. The interlock is a "tap". It operates like a "man in the middle attack". It taps one line of the AC transformer secondary for the 20VAC and 50VAC. It routes each of those to the coin door interlock switch and back to the other side of the tap. If you show me an image, I can use my magic highlighting pen on it. It's much easier to show you than describe it.

As to the wiring above with the interlock switch, it actually doesn't matter if you connect one end to the NO or COM. As long as you don't connect to NC. I once saw a (interestingly Road Show) machine where someone had re-connected the wires to the NC at the interlock switch. The person asking me to look at his machine said that the shaker worked in test but didn't work in the game. Took me a while to locate where the problem was. It's not intuitive because almost nobody messes with the interlock switch.

If you don't have the wiring harness for the "man in the middle" then you will have to create the harness. This is why I want to see the images. So I can tell you if it's there and where to connect it. It's easy to disconnect the "man in the middle". You simply pull each side of the connectors and re-connect the others back. It removes the "man in the middle". After that, it's also easy to discard the cable. Why bother discarding after you've disconnected and rendered it inert? That's why it might still be there.

I hope you can now see why I asked for the images. I didn't ask for them to waste your time.

What you have there is NOT factory. The factory did not cut the wires and did not use Butt connectors (splices). Somebody else in machine's history did that. The factory would have used an additional cable connected between the two connectors you have there. Some more details below.

The taps are for the 20VAC (WHT-RED) and 50VAC (BLK-YEL). The cuts are made on the transformer side as you can see.

Here is the wiring diagram with different markings. If you are color blind in some way let me know and I will avoid using colors.

xfmr_wiring_diagram.jpg

Here is how the wiring diagram matches what you have physically in the machine.

xfmr_connector.jpg

• The yellow connector and bundle of wires goes to the cabinet (up to the board at J101/J102/J112).
• The red connector and bundle of wires comes from the transformer (secondary).
• To restore this to factory, you would disconnect the yellow and red connector and create a "man in the middle" with the tap. This would be a new cable with mating connectors as shown in green and blue in the wiring diagram. You don't have this. Either the factory did not install it, or someone in the machine's history removed it.
• The attempt to install a tap can be seen with the cut wires and the Butt connector. The wires have been cut at the green and blue arrow in the wiring diagram. This has been done on the transformer side but it actually doesn't matter which side as it could have been done on the cabinet side.
• The wire nuts in the other image are simply just connecting the additional wire together. There were probably quick connector tabs to insert into a DPDT interlock switch. These are the four wires that you have pulled up to the top of the playfield. If you trace them back you should be able to correlate the wires to the wiring diagram. Keep the WHT-RED and BLK-YEL wires together - i.e. insert them as matching into each pole of the interlock switch. It doesn't matter NO or COM. Just don't use NC.

If that's unclear then I will try to explain it differently.

The wires coming off the transformer (primary and secondary) look to be 18 AWG. I think there are two primary gauges used in the machine. 18 AWG is the larger and 22 AWG is the smaller. If you look at the wires connected to J101, J102 and J112 (transformer secondaries) they are 18 AWG. If you look at the wires connected to J133-135 and J136-J138 (lamp matrix) they are all 22 AWG.

Unfortunately, not that I can see. The gauge can often be deduced from the purpose (what the wiring is used for) but there is no rule or pattern. Williams even changed some of their manufacturing during the WPC era. The early WPC-89 machines (I think prior to WPC-S) have solenoid drive wires that are 22 AWG. The later WPC-89 machines (I think WPC-S) and WPC-95 machines have solenoid drive wires that are 18 AWG.

A nice image of the cable was just added by another helpful member.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/181#post-7570315

You can see the "tap" cable.

• Follow the secondaries to a housing.
• That housing mates to another housing that is part of the tap.
• You can see the BLK-YEL and WHT-RED wires looped and coming in/out of the tap.
• The other side of the tap has a housing.
• That housing mates to another housing (labeled "Electronics").
• The wires then go up to the backbox electronics.

Operators have disconnected the tap housings and just mated the secondary housing to the cabinet housing. They (probably) subsequently discarded the tap cable.

Thanks for the nice comment DumbAss As soon as I posted that I was thinking I should have labeled the interlock jumper cable with the +20V and +50V wires to the interlock.