My Road Show is a little bit different than most...
Some pinball history here, goes with this photo, perhaps for another time.

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When is the last time you replaced the rubber flipper rings? Don't use synthetic.

Different hardness consistency overall.
Position on the flipper as noted does make a difference.
Gum rubber on flippers when new helps prevent air balls. You can replace the foam if it's worn, but if the coil sleeves are "fresh", more air balls are natural.

Hobby shops online.
Remote control cars as well.
That is what collectors did before motors and full gear boxes were reproduced.
The final option is "rapid prototyping" the gear, but I would just end up buying a new proper motor.
My experience of cheap replacements is they do not always work out.
Nothing wrong with having a spare.

Simple, straightforward painting.
Nothing super fancy for myself.

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Game over.
Red - "Bye Bye Now".
(Game over music continues)

The number of NOS parts to bring this game back is going to be very expensive.
Some are nearly unobtainable, based on visible damage, some existing parts cannot be reused.
Looks like this was in a fire and the playfield glass popped, and things kept right on going.

Red decided to have birth defects at Pin-A-Go-Go

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Quoted from NonStopSwagger:
Anybody know what goes in this spot in roadshow? Post of some sort? Mine is missing and my blade is off center.

A single metal mini rubber post mounts at that location with a washer and locknut on the underside of the playfield, if you are missing a T-nut with the hex post version.
It was added due to balls getting wedged in that area of the bulldozer blade, or at least that was the reported reason.
I have seen balls on other games that this did occur and caused jamming of the blade motor and cracked blade.
Some games simply were missing the part from factory.

My game actually has two, one on each side, but were factory drilled and T-nutted at the factory, but I own a sample game.
This is unnecessary due to the post on the left side before the entrance to Ted, I have not seen many others with two posts.
Most later playfields still had at least the right hole based on playfield production, but I cannot speak for how many actually got the post installed before the game shipped out to distributors and ultimately to operators because the game was in production when the problem was reported.
I don't remember it being reported on service bulletins either, as it was operator feedback direct to tech support at Williams.
It was considered a "quick fix".

Other variations on this game included extended clear plastic flanges at the top of the blade during prototyping, but were removed in favor of the standard rubber pads that were ultimately used to reduce ball momentum, avoid a broken blade, the fact aesthetically the plastic shield looked uglier than hell, it was an unnecessary requirement as balls jumping over the blade was rare, and the ball search including lifting the blade in the software.

This is now the traditional way most people know what the "bulldozer" blade looks like.

There are bit of history in every game turn in pinball.

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Alignment of flippers should be performed with rubber rings on, so that the lower edges coincide with the inlane guides.
They should form a "straight parallel line".
I will explain why in a second.
The alignment holes are used as guides, usually with toothpicks in the roll pins, but are not "absolutes".
Exclusive alignment hole use versus the above method requires that the rubber flipper rings are OFF for best adjustment as per factory adjustment, but I prefer the previous method, as you do not need to make adjustments twice.

However, keep in mind when tightening the cranks that the full up position of the flippers is just as important as the rest position.
Before fully tightening, raise both flippers to the top of their limits to check the spacing and vertical angle alignment.
They should be mirror images of each other with an equal gap at the limits of stroke.
If they don't, readjust with a little push or pull, or there is a difference in plunger lengths (wrong type), if they are completely off and cannot be properly equalled.
You will understand when you see it.