(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 4,081 posts
  • 463 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 44 hours ago by SimplePin
  • Topic is favorited by 185 Pinsiders

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#125 9 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Anybody out there know where this piece goes? Its the last piece to the puzzle of reassembling my tear down?

It looks like it is the same size as the one that protects the switch on the left side of the left ramp entrance.

RS_plastic.jpgRS_plastic.jpg
#127 9 years ago

Promo hard hat and aftermarket unbreakable replacement part.

RS_promo.jpgRS_promo.jpg replacement2.jpgreplacement2.jpg replacement1-779.jpgreplacement1-779.jpg
2 weeks later
#134 9 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

The dreaded fish wear.anyone found a way to repair this? A decal would be awesome.

Afaik a pinsider is working on one. I do have a spare playfield without fish wear. I do have a HP scanjet 4600 scanner to scan it if needed.

Post edited by rygar: spelling error

6 months later
#214 9 years ago

Some info on cheap eddy boards repair is in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-buyers-checklist

5 months later
#370 8 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Anyone know where I can get the square Cliffy for the Start City hole?
Didn't see it on the official Cliffy website, but may have missed it.
Thanks.

They are available here:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/roadshowscoop.htm

#371 8 years ago
Quoted from Dbaum88:

Love my Road Show but NEED HELP!!!!!
The bulldozer target is very hit and miss. Sometimes it registers a day of the week (or a hit in mode) and sometimes it doesn't. I know I must adjust the switch below. How should I adjust the flat head screw beneath? Leave the red light barely on? barely off?
The Red head sometimes will score and then keep scoring until I turn off the game.
So, I need to adjust but don't know where to leave it...
if that makes sense...thanks!

No need to throw away the money for new eddy board(s). Here is the tip how to fix your existing board for next to nothing:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-buyers-checklist

#374 8 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Is this still a current site? Emailed the other day and haven't heard anything back.
Also, Ted can't seem to blink. Easy fix? I've been enjoying the game too much to take 5 minutes off from playing. Him not blinking doesn't affect game play. But, if anyone has a quick tip, please let me know. Thanks.

Does Red blink? I have turned the blinking off in settings, because it fried a mini coil in Ted s head.

#376 8 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Yes. Red blinks. Ted does not.

Does TED open and close eyelids?

#381 8 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Nope. Just always open. In testing, when you select eyes shut for Ted, nothing happens. When he should close his eyes when his mouth is open to hit the shot for multi ball, his eyes are open. When you're done playing and Red closes her eyes, his stay open.
His eyes do move left to right, but seem to be locked open.
Blown coil?

It could be caused by blown/disconnected coil or as bigd1979 said broken plunger. Pinbits used to sell those parts made out of Delrin, but I cannot find them on their page at the moment.

#384 8 years ago

I also recommend running L-6 CPU ROM revision, because it limits Red and Ted coils activation to prevent them from overheating (I cannot remember if blinking fried my coil before or after ROM upgrade).

7 months later
#477 8 years ago
Quoted from WMSpin:

Anyone have a Flying Rocks Plastic by any chance?

Just a correctly scaled photo of it.

rs_flying_rocks_correct_(resized).jpgrs_flying_rocks_correct_(resized).jpg

1 month later
#511 8 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

I am finally in the club!
Played this a lot (every day) back in the days.
Looking forward to fixing all the small stuff. The usual: Ted eyelids, apron, and Cliffy protectors to the start city and blast hole.
I have the LX-3 roms, but I can't seem to find how to turn off the shaker? Any hints? New roms?
Axl

You need revision L-6:

Added adjustment for the shaker motor (default=NORMAL)
Values are NORMAL, SOFT, and OFF

#512 8 years ago
Quoted from rygar:

You need revision L-6:
Added adjustment for the shaker motor (default=NORMAL). Values are NORMAL, SOFT, and OFF

Also very useful update in L-6:
Added special code to limit the amount of time the Red and Ted eyelids are activated to prevent the coils from overheating.

6 months later
#703 7 years ago
Quoted from TaradinoC:

My Ted's eyelids are staying closed more often than they should now, but not all the time. In the tests, they open as expected during "eyes wide", but during "eyes open", I hear a buzz but they don't open.
I haven't opened his head up yet, but in the manual it looks like there are only four coils (lids up/down, eyes left/right). What's the difference between open and wide then?

Here are all three states (closed, wide and open):

open:
open.jpgopen.jpg
wide:
wide.jpgwide.jpg
closed:
closed.jpgclosed.jpg

1 month later
#722 7 years ago

It hink that it is an eddy sensor in front of TEDs mouth located under the playfield.

2 years later
#1684 4 years ago

I vote for B version. Thank you for your code improvements.

1 week later
#1694 4 years ago
Quoted from IdahoRyan:

Picked up a Road Show yesterday. I'm pretty excited about finding this game. Will look good next to my TZ.
Couple Issues I could use some guidance on. Fairly new to the hobby so don't know where to start.
1. I replaced the batteries on the board. Appears to be no evidence of a prior leak. This obviously restored the machine to the factory settings. The issue I am having, when I start the game up and start ball 1 - The game immediately goes into OVERTIME mode and flashes non stop and it appears the score keeps climbing and climbing when I am not even doing anything. If I keep playing it sometimes stops and then plays normal? Any Idea? Now it didn't do this when I tested it out on location. Only once the factory reset happened.
2. On location during testing, TED and RED checked out ok under the diagnostics menu/test and when I hit TED 4 times LOCK lit up. Once instructed to hit TED for MULTIBALL I shot the ball inside his mouth and it never starts multiball. Just sits there and keeps saying to hit TED
I have some cleaning to do, and quite a few plastics are broke, and the plunger can use a new spring.

The problem #1 is the trimmer on small board under the playfield. You put the game in switch test mode, lift the playfield and test it with putting a ball in front of the dozer blade. The led on the small board should be off and eddy sensor should sense the ball.

The problem #2 is in one of the two switches, probably the lower one. Might be also a switch under the red VUK coil.
RS1.jpgRS1.jpgRS2.jpgRS2.jpg

#1697 4 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

My dozer eddy board often goes out of adjustment. Is there a cheaper way to fix it than buying the improved eddy board?

Yes. You can replace the trimmer. I have done it on mine and I ve had no problems for three years now. If you want even more permanent solution you can seal its position with super glue after calibration.
The cost of the trimmer should be approximatelly $1-$2.

1 week later
#1706 4 years ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Looking to join the club
Been looking at a lot of examples
Some of the heads I see for Ted look off
Was there multiple used?

No, probably just repainted by current owners or replacements.

1 month later
#1763 4 years ago

I have checked out my Williams/Bally small boards spare sets and I have a spare set of shaker and board. Unfortunately I need it for RFM conversion to shaker motor. I can help you with elements/measures of shaker board.

IMG_5975.JPGIMG_5975.JPGIMG_5976.JPGIMG_5976.JPGIMG_5977.JPGIMG_5977.JPGIMG_5978.JPGIMG_5978.JPG
#1770 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Thx, but Ks needs the actual board to test the traces.

I can wait with my RFM shaker upgrade. Please PM me the details about your address.

6 months later
#1900 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

AFAIK, Road Show never came with a clear protector on top. That looks like it was added onto by a previous owner..

Early production machines had that protector. I have a stash of parts from parted out machine that came with preliminary manual. It had a playfield woth factory hole for post between the flippers. The back of Red's head also has a 3d structure for hair. I ll post some comparison pictures of that feature.

#1901 4 years ago
Quoted from Piso:

Hi,
since I have my road show (two month now) I have some marks on ted cheeks. I thought they were caused by balls hitting his face ( ). Today I got a ball stuck just under the dozer and I realized that those marks were made by the clear plastic dozer protection hitting the cheeks. It happens during multi ball when a ball pushes under the dozer. I see that there is a dozer version that doesn't have the clear plastic on top, maybe a improved part? Does anyone else have the same problem? Thank you and happy new year [quoted image][quoted image]

Can you please post a photo of the serial number? If possible also a machine number which is usually located in the upper right corner inside backbox. I am trying to figure out to what number ofthose machines had specific features. One of my three and a half Roadshows is machine number 400 and it does not have Red's hair texture, hole between flippers or dozer blade clear plastics.

#1907 4 years ago

As promised - some photos of early production Roadshow items. Different back of Red's head (right one is an example of regular production back), playfield post hole, preliminary manual and dozer blade clear plastic.

IMG_6490.JPGIMG_6490.JPGIMG_6495.JPGIMG_6495.JPGIMG_6493.JPGIMG_6493.JPGIMG_6492.JPGIMG_6492.JPG
#1910 4 years ago
Quoted from Piso:

Hi, here is my serial number and game number. Does this mean that my road show is the 524th produced? My game has the clear plastic on top of the dozer, does not have a hole for a center post and red does have textured hair.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for the info. It is a machine number 1385.

2 weeks later
#1936 4 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

I know that but no idea where to get a burned ROM replacement

Sent you PM.

#1940 4 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

A good friend can buy a RS for a good price but Ted has had a warm moment so to say.
Anyone having parts for this? Especially the face of Ted is needed.[quoted image]

Davi might be able to help you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress/page/31#post-4587605

#1941 4 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

A good friend can buy a RS for a good price but Ted has had a moment so to say.
Anyone having parts for this? Especially the face of Ted is needed.[quoted image]

Are the ramps ok? I have a lead on NOS right ramp, but it is quite pricy for my taste (275 eur). Pinball amigos miight also help you. They are building Crazy mansion pinball and have a gutted Roadhow machine. Pinballrockstar was so kind that he sent me a display cover of that Roadshow.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-crazy-mansion-by-the-pinball-amigos/page/3#post-3834533

2 months later
#2049 3 years ago
Quoted from Piso:

I have disassembled Red and I found out that I don't have the centering flange on the coil that open her eyes. If someone has a spare could you please give me the correct dimension in order to be able to print one with my 3D printer? Thank you

You can PM me your mail and I ll send you the file to print it.

1 week later
#2058 3 years ago
Quoted from Piso:

Hi,
I still don't know much about game ROMs. On the internet pinball database I can see that there are a few ROM versions, I attach an image. From what I can see only 3 official version were made by Williams: LX-2, LX-4 and L-6 (correct order?)? Then I see there are 7 PinMAME Romset, what are those? Last I can see a L6 Patch which should be the custom one made by Soren, right? Thank you
[quoted image]

Pinmame Romsets are the sets used for Visual pinmame (WPC pinball emulator). Pinmame romset L-6 contains L-6 game rom and all L-1 sound roms.
L6 patch is the latest Soren patch for Roadshow (after patching you get a L-6 ccd1 version).

2 weeks later
#2071 3 years ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

The biggest problem I had were the Eddy sensor boards, I replaced them with auto adjusting ones and haven’t had a problem since

Or you can replace the trimmers on the eddy boards for a few cents each and you are good for atleast 10 years, probably even more in home environment.

#2072 3 years ago
Quoted from rygar:

Or you can replace the trimmers on the eddy boards for a few cents each and you are good for at least 10 years, probably even more in home environment.

1 year later
#2609 2 years ago
Quoted from koen12344:

Anyone have some high res pics of all the connectors in the backbox? I'm trying to fix this mess, going by the manual. But it would be nice to have some pics of a working machine to verify everything. Looks like there is also some cables missing in the backbox.
[quoted image]

Here you go. Let me know if you need any other specific details which are not clearly visible.

IMG_6871.JPGIMG_6871.JPGIMG_6872.JPGIMG_6872.JPGIMG_6873.JPGIMG_6873.JPGIMG_6874.JPGIMG_6874.JPGIMG_6875.JPGIMG_6875.JPGIMG_6876.JPGIMG_6876.JPGIMG_6877.JPGIMG_6877.JPGIMG_6878.JPGIMG_6878.JPGIMG_6879.JPGIMG_6879.JPGIMG_6880.JPGIMG_6880.JPGIMG_6881.JPGIMG_6881.JPGIMG_6882.JPGIMG_6882.JPGIMG_6883.JPGIMG_6883.JPGIMG_6884.JPGIMG_6884.JPGIMG_6886.JPGIMG_6886.JPGIMG_6887.JPGIMG_6887.JPG
1 month later
#2636 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Im re-redoing my Roadshow again, that was lent out, and came back with some issues.
First one is I have no flashers.
Can someone share if the connection is Only at J107, or should it be plugged into J106?
Any reason not to try?
Would F111 by the Flasher fuse?
Thanks!

J107 is the correct one. J106 is one pin shorter and is not used. F111 is a fuse for flashers.

1 week later
#2639 2 years ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Bump, anyone have a clue on my issue

For the flipper issue - try swapping the flipper opto boards in the cabinet.

-1
#2644 2 years ago
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

my monday through friday are automatically registering hits to light lock without any dozer hits. i believe its the eddy boards. do you guys have any input to offer on this issue? the game plays great otherwise, but its registering "ghost" shots to the dozer....

Most likely needs the eddy board adjustment:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eddy-board-adjustment

4 months later
#2748 2 years ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Since owning my Road Show I've noticed other Road Shows look different but couldn't put my finger on it.
Till now,
My Red and Ted faces are shiny.... Whereas it seems most are matte. I wonder why they differ?
What were they like originally? Maybe mine were repainted.
Does anywhere sell replacement faces for both Red and Ted? I'm curious how they look.

I own 3 Road Shows and additional set of heads from a parted out game (not shown on the photo). Out of those one set is glossy (bottom of photo) and other ones are matte. All are unpainted original ones. Looks like they were out of matte clear on the shiny sets.

20200423_140649_HDR.jpg20200423_140649_HDR.jpg
#2752 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Look very good! Seems like you’ve assembled a few heads, I am about to do it for the first time after buying a machine in a million parts. Do you have a thread or video on how?

Unfortunatelly I did not take any videos. There is an excellent 3 part video series on repairing Funhouse Rudy by pinballhelp which explains everything in detail:

#2753 2 years ago
Quoted from rygar:

Unfortunatelly I did not take any videos. There is an excellent 4 part video series on repairing Funhouse Rudy by pinballhelp which explains everything in detail:



2 weeks later
#2800 2 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I can swear there were a PPS thread discussing face/jaw colors for reproduced RS/FH plastics here on pinside like half a year ago, thought they were remade by now?!

Jaws variants (Rudy/Red/Ted) are already available here:

https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=258

#2801 2 years ago
Quoted from lecter:

Hi Guys,
A guy send me a couple of photos and unfortunately this is only one way I'm able to check the condition of the pinball machine - photos. He lives far away from me and machine wolud be shipping to me.
May I gently ask you for help and pointing out some defects, please?
I can see defect of playfield (I hope only ruined mylar) and strange spots near motorshake - do you think this is mould on the wooden cabinet (I hope not)?
The link for the photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ken4s9thdqberrd/AACtIheZepCAngiVPXEJJPhZa?dl=0
Thank you in advance!

I see no obvious faults on it from the posted photos. The wear on the insert below the fish is minimal. Ask the guy for some close up photos of the right ramp as there might be some damage on it. Those spots on the cabinet floor are not mould. Looks like a nice machine and I would buy it. CPU board is not original from this machine and was replaced with one from The Shadow. Maybe also ask for some photos of the driver board to see its condition. On one of my Roadshows there was a burnt section on the eyes transistors location. If you will buy it I also recommend to upgrade CPU eprom on version L-6 or the one from Soren as it helps saving the Red and Ted eye coils drom burning out by limiting the time they can be turned on. Another nice option is control of shaking from the shaker motor.
From the upgrade notes: added special code to limit the amount of time the Red and Ted eyelids are activated to prevent the coils from overheating.
Added adjustment for the shaker motor (default=NORMAL) Values are NORMAL, SOFT, and OFF.

#2804 2 years ago
Quoted from PPS:

Coming next ... original WMS tools ... Red and Ted Faces and Head Plastics ...[quoted image]

Looks like Rudy is in there too.

1 week later
#2840 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainCaverne:

Okay i have an issue with Ted's jaw : it lowers properly, but it never raise completely.
When Ted is talking, the movements are clearly incomplete.
After some search (this page : https://www.aaarpinball.com/RoadShow/RoadShow.htm contains some useful infos), I have replaced the four transistors on the dual drive motor board corresponding to Ted, but with no luck.
I have tried swapping the power connectors between Red & Ted motors, and in this case, Red's jaw is not moving properly, so the assembly is not the culprit.
Could it be an IC issue ? The motor board is using a LM339 chip...

Did you check out the yaw gear? It might have some stripped/missing teeth.

#2841 2 years ago

I had the same problem with the left gear.

20220122_185845_HDR (resized).jpg20220122_185845_HDR (resized).jpg
2 months later
#3075 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have never seen a RoadShow apron NOT show rust and black paint chiping off.

I own 3 Roadshows and 2 of them were rusty (missng one thrd of pant) and one is in normal shape (originally).

20220326_083625_HDR.jpg20220326_083625_HDR.jpg20220326_083700_HDR.jpg20220326_083700_HDR.jpg
6 months later
#3351 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

SOLVED = Reseated ribbon cables on audio board
Strange things happening.... Had reset errors on my RS. Swapped MPU board with my JOhnny M and now both seems reset free (at the moment)
However on RS I have a couple of strange things now...
Volume level can be adjusted (volume override on) in the menu but the actual volume doesn't change...
Game is also reacting strangely it's like the switches are activating different sounds as in the past. eg going up the left ramp adds a weekday... When balls exits the game it's saying it visited a city while this didn't happen... and plenty more strange things like jackpot song that suddenly starts...

Do you have batteries or NVRAM on your CPU boards?

1 year later
#3948 4 months ago
Quoted from jazc4:

I hear ya. I'm all for building them myself if I can source the parts.

Afterglow (open source) alternative.

Project homepage: https://github.com/bitfieldlabs/afterglow#readme
List of parts: https://github.com/bitfieldlabs/afterglow/wiki/Bill-of-Materials

I am in for a group order of PCBs (populated or not) in case anyone is also interested in this solution and want to save some money.

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