(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


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  • 4,082 posts
  • 463 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 days ago by PPS
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pudealee.
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#3208 1 year ago

I will be joining the club this weekend. I've perused this group and have come away with some tips I intend to implement. What suggestions do you all recommend I take right off the bat? New code? Protectors, etc.? Looking forward to having this machine.

#3216 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Definitely get Sorens official gamerom update for RS

Does the new code have a setting that allows you to play as originally intended in addition to new rules?

#3239 1 year ago

Got my new-to-me RS in the house, and up and running. It needs a few minor tweaks, but overall is a fine looking machine.

The diverter behind Red’s head may not be opening up completely, as the ball will bounce back when attempting to pass through. Any advice?

Looking forward to adding some side blades, new code, and such.

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#3246 1 year ago

Just got my RS a few days ago. I’m going to post a few minor hiccups before I tackle the harder stuff. I’ve been able to find a few fixes already in this group.

When doing Flying Rocks and hitting Ted’s head, the ball doesn’t roll back down the ramp. Not sure if the round bumper thing has hardened, or if the switch blade is causing the ball to get stuck. Here’s a pic of my setup.

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#3250 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Bend the switch a little bit

That did it. Thanks!

#3254 1 year ago

I'm in the process of spiffing up my recently purchased RS. Items purchased/fixed so far:

- Missing upper left flipper spring
- Loose Ted face
- $25M Flying Rocks Ted Shot ball not returning
- Broken left outlane plastic
- Soren's ROM (not yet installed)
- Cliffy's ordered
- Tilt bob ordered

Next on my list is the right diverter behind Red's head. A ball hit up the right ramp would oftentimes bounce back down the ramp. For now I disabled the diverter. Upon further investigation I found that the linkage spring had snapped off of the diverter blade. I have ordered a new spring and that should fix the issue. I forgot to take a pic of the mechanism before I started disassembly. If possible, could somebody pull their playfield forward and take a pic of the diverter assembly mounted to the back-board from the top (looking down) I would greatly appreciate it!!

I love working on my machines, but I have a tendency to foul things up. A pic would work wonders!

#3256 1 year ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

Hope these help.

Perfect - thank you SimplePin !

I looked around for the plunger/spring combo. Marco was out, and I could never get confirmation from two other places that what they had listed was actually in stock. So, I just ordered the spring (3 of them in case I mess it up). I'm going to try my luck at attaching the spring without removing the pin. It was hard to get off, so I can imagine getting a new one on will be harder.

More repairs & mods to come!

#3257 1 year ago

A few more oddities discovered, and a few explained. First the issues...

#1 - My flippers are working fine. But, I think I may have an issue with the flipper buttons or board. Starting last night I can't "buy" any souvenirs. Whenever I'm presented with the choice to hit the left flipper for No, or the right flipper for Yes, the right flipper will not accept my choice. When I flip I have no problems. When I enter my initials I have no problem with the right flipper advancing the selection. Go figure.

#2 - I noticed that the top line of the DMD looked a little "wavy". See the pic outlined in blue). And sometimes when there are two lines of text on the display the very top pixel line of each line of text is a little dimmer than the rest (see yellow arrows). Is this a function of the display itself or the display board? I'm planning on getting a Color DMD, but am in no rush. Overall the display looks fine for the most part.

Now the explained.

On boot up I was getting a Test Error stating that my Right Ramp Diverter was disabled. This was correct, as I am waiting on a new linkage spring. But I also got two switch errors. One was the #72 Rt. Ramp Exit Center, and #55 Rt Ramp Exit Left. After consulting the manual, I realized by disabling the Right Ramp diverter, the #72 switch was giving the error as it hadn't been tripped in a while (due to the diverter). I tested it and it works fine. #55 was that a small screw (not sure where it came from) had wedged the switch down. Screw removed, problem solved.

Anyway - any suggestions or advice on the issues above would be appreciated.

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#3260 1 year ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

firmware states L-6 but the Soren chip is rev. 7

I think it is L-6 code, revision 7. Maybe soren can confirm.

#3263 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

try running the screen test in service mode.

Hey clempo - I Ran the test and nothing really popped out as being an issue. I can live with it until I get my Color DMD. But I am curious if it is the display that is starting to have issues or the controller board.

#3265 1 year ago

I love to jiggle! I'll give it a shot.

#3269 1 year ago

Edit - removed pop bumper GI question...

Update - I got my right rear diverter fixed - and new spring did the job. But, in the process I totally torqued my right cabinet slide. I took it off and tried to fix it, but it won't latch. Oh well.

#3272 1 year ago

Ugh - two steps forward, one step back.

I've had my Road Show for exactly one week. I've been fixing minor issues like replacing bulbs, replacing sockets, fixing the diverter behind Red, and such. After I replaced a pop-bumper light socket, I fired up a game and realized that an entire column (column 3) is out. These switches are mostly on the right side of the game (two skill shot switches, shooter lane, radio stand-ups, Red Stand Ups, and so on).

I can diagnose and fix small things, but I have no clue where to start on a matter like this. I have a multimeter, but am not really sure what to check. Any help and advice on where to begin and how to fix would be greatly appreciated.

#3274 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

change a specific switch matrix IC

Lhyrgoif when you say IC would that be like the U20 on the CPU board? That's the chip mentioned on the switch matrix.

#3276 1 year ago

My switch matrix issue with all column 3 switches being out is fixed! It was the U20 chip. Popped a new one in there, and she's good to go!! Thanks for all the help.

Now I'm looking to fix that string of GI in the back box.

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#3278 1 year ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

Looks like they’re working.

Are those bulbs that are out in the pic above not GI lights? Or, am I confusing something?

#3280 1 year ago
Quoted from Staffan:

check connector J120.

J120 is secure on the pins. Should I try to re-seat the wires on J120?

#3284 1 year ago

Have anybody used spots to brighten up the playfield? If so, where did you place them?

#3286 1 year ago

Yes - extras.

My Red has a spot. My Ted doesn't. I'll have to put one there. Can somebody post a pic of the Red spot? I can see it somewhat on ipdb.org, but would love to one from the group here.

#3289 1 year ago

Thanks @jmckune. I suppose I can wire it into any nearby GI light. There was no evidence of a spot being there when got the machine. But it sure needs one there!

#3291 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

It has a connector

I believe mine has been totally removed. No sign of a connector. I think I can mount it in the same place, and possibly run the wires down under the plastic next to the spinner and tap into the GI there.

1 week later
#3304 1 year ago

For those of you that have a decal on your backboard, I need some advice. I haven't looked closely to my backboard yet, but are the flashers removable from the back side or front side of the backboard to allow for a simple install of the decal?

I have applied decals to arcade cabs where I would install over the empty button holes, then make an X with an X-Acto knife and folded the decal inward. Is it pretty much the same for the flashers?

Finally, I've asked the supplier of my decal for advice, but do you suggest a dry or wet installation?

#3307 1 year ago

mastercello did you apply the decal dry, or using the wet method? Looks good!

#3313 1 year ago
Quoted from Paseb:

My friend did a little airbrush product with the radio.

Very nice. I have no skills.

2 weeks later
#3322 1 year ago

Maybe Ted should talk to his doctor and see what's right for him...

Seriously, I'm a RS newbie and I don't have a clue. Sorry you're having issues. I'm sure somebody here will know a solution!

1 month later
#3352 1 year ago

Tech Help.

I was in the process of replacing the two left out-lane bulbs on my Road Show. I had recently bought a “flipped” game where cheap LEDs had been used. I was replacing them with standard incandescent 47s until I redo the entire machine. I powered off the machine, replaced the bulbs and powered back on. One of the bulbs was not lighting. I figured I didn’t seat it well. When I attempted to seat it again (with power on), poof – the entire left GI went out.

I looked under the playfield and to my untrained eye there is nothing anywhere near the socket that would have caused a short. Nothing is touching either socket in the out-lane other than the wires that feed them. I would appreciate any ideas on how to proceed.

#3357 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

It could be the result of a poor socket connection arching inside of the base. Also check to make sure the two spades where the wires are soldered are not making direct contact

Thanks Jmckune If that is the case, and I clear any direct contact issue, will there be anything I need to check or fix in the back box? I really hate this sort of stuff, but I guess it comes with the territory.

***Update - the fuse was blown, so I replaced it and it blew too. I know the exact lamp sockets that I was working on, so I'll check those for a short. Is there an easy way to identify the culprit?

#3359 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Focus on the socket where the lamp didn't light up. Probably a short around or inside it that blows the fuse.

That was it! I made sure there was plenty of separation on the tabs where the wires are soldered, and replaced a fuse. While replacing this fuse I also found another that was blown and it fixed some of the GI that surrounds the map on the playfield All is right with the world once again!!

Thanks to everyone who helped!!

#3360 1 year ago

Occasionally I am having issues with air balls when shooting the left ramp. They will pop up and get wedged next to the switch just as the ball makes the turn. Has somebody made a plastic to cover the back of the ramp?

#3363 1 year ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I also made my own,

That looks great!!

1 week later
#3371 1 year ago

Finally did a complete LED job (Comet kit), reinstalled the missing Ted spot, and added a trough light just for grins. I’m very pleased with the outcome. I also added a spot to the lower left sling, pointing over the map, but it kept blowing a fuse. So, I yanked it.

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2 weeks later
#3416 1 year ago

I got Construction Mania for the first time today. Only took me the better part of three months!

#3420 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

How do you get that?

I only knew about it by watching the Bowen Kerins tutorial on the PAPA Youtube site.

#3422 1 year ago
Quoted from egyptrus:

I just automatically hit the flippers twice

Ditto

2 months later
#3507 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Polished the VUK.

Now that's a shiny VUK

2 weeks later
#3554 1 year ago

SOLVED - Just experienced an odd situation. I fired up the machine for the first time in a few days, and as soon as the ball hit the shooter lane, it started racking up points. Any time I hit the flipper (either one) it would rack up points. It sounded as if I were shooting the spinner. On one occasion it would load two balls into the shooter lane. Any idea what might be going on?

The funny thing was it was on Miami, and I had a 300M ball.

#3557 1 year ago
Quoted from Santis:

Most likely a stuck switch.

Thanks. When I just now turned the machine on I got the following message - "GND. SHORT ROW 1 IS STUCK CLOSED."

When I do a T2 Switch Level test I get the following: Dozer Up (switch 15), Always Closed (Switch 24), and Trough Jam (Switch 41)

#3558 1 year ago

SOLVED - I had removed the coin mechs that came with the machine. I set them in the spot where the coin tray was supposed to be. Over time one of them shifted and was touching the slam tilt switch that is on floor of the machine, close to the tilt bob. All is well with the world!

1 month later
#3603 1 year ago

I've bitten the bullet and ordered a Color DMD. Anybody have any tips or tricks (or cautionary tales) prior to me installing this thing in a few days?

#3608 1 year ago

ColorDMD update…installation was a snap. It looked real good in Black & White. When I did the firmware update, the board would never get to “done.” The Init light would stay on, the screen wouldn’t even light up. After multiple attempts I went through the trouble shooting steps. One of the steps asks you to remove the video cable from the screen, and do a reboot. That’s when I noticed that I had a bad connector. There was no “pull-down” bar. So, they’re sending me a new cable.

On the good side, it did allow me to update the firmware, and finally got the “done” light. I just can’t see the fruits of my labor.

IMG_6530 (resized).jpegIMG_6530 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#3610 1 year ago

ColoDMD update - success!!!

After having numerous issues, and with the help of the fine folks at ColorDMD, my RS is good to go. They bent over backwards to help. First they sent my a new LVDS cable. Did not help. Then they sent me a new controller board. Bingo!! I’m up and running!!

Which resolution setting do y’all use?

#3612 1 year ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

Bingo. It worked.

As soon as Bob's comes up I hit the buttons just out of habit (without looking to see if uranium is there).

4 weeks later
#3639 11 months ago

So, a first for me. I fired up the machine for the first time today and I get a “Test Report” message. Pinball Missing. Sure enough, only three in the trough. I scoured the playfield and there wasn’t a ball stuck anywhere. I checked all of the VUKs, nothing. I looked at the bottom of the cab, zilch. I even gave Red and Ted a dental exam, nada. Flabbergasted, I lowered the playfield and heard that familiar “ball” sound. But could find no missing ball. With the playfield sitting on the slides, I sat in a chair next to the shooter lane. Out of sheer luck, I look to my right and see this. I have no clue how it got there.

IMG_6791 (resized).jpegIMG_6791 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#3644 11 months ago
Quoted from ray3127:

What about the blast zone hole?

Yes! I have the Cliffy Blasting Zone Repair Kit.

#3647 11 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

It’s for games where the post nearest the start city scoop has been blasted off from repeated hits combined with very thin wood.

Yep - my post was history!

7 months later
#4003 3 months ago

Anyone have a source for the decals on Red & Ted's hats? I ordered some from somewhere, but they printed on white backing - not clear. Argh!

3 weeks later
#4046 76 days ago
Quoted from CYUniversal:

I'm open to all opinions you can give me; I just want to improve in what I do best.

Great looking work! I somewhat agree with allsportdvd . I had always thought that a reproduction of the main USA cities map might be nice, with someone smarter than me figuring out how to duplicate them lighting up on the topper.

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