(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)


By webdiddy

6 years ago



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  • 303 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by Axl
  • Topic is favorited by 119 Pinsiders

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#583 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I don't think *Red* ever falls asleep.
*Ted* falls asleep to light multiball..

She should fall asleep when the game is over. If she doesn't her eyes are broken. Mine are.

1 week later
#588 3 years ago

Can anyone offer some advice on flipper alignment? I rebuilt my flippers and didn't take a picture of the alignment before I started. The flippers look reasonably where they should be but I can't help but notice I CAN'T MAKE A DAMN SHOT since I rebuilt them LOL. And the bunker in particular seems damn near impossible to hit right now.

Something isn't as it should be.

Would appreciate any advice as this play field doesn't have those little alignment holes I'm not really sure where it should be.

Thanks

1 month later
#606 3 years ago

I also have the red eyes never closing issue. I've got every other issue fixed except that one. But bigger fish to fry on two other games so the eyes aren't a priority. Nothing further damaging can be done playing it this way?

#607 3 years ago

Only other issue that I have is my lock bar isn't held tight on the right side. It wobbles and can be pulled out a little bit while locked. I can't see anything wrong with the lock mechanism however there is a dent in the lock bar on the right side I'm not sure if that's causing it.

2 weeks later
#614 3 years ago
Quoted from CryHavoc:

From what I've read it seems my rusty apron is the norm for this title. Whats the recommended fix for that? Just sand it down, repaint, and decals?

Mine too. It's brutal

2 weeks later
#633 3 years ago

Resistance reading on the small coil that opens reds eyes? Go! (It wasn't working... noticed the wire was broken. I fixed it but it's reading much lower than the other coils in the head. Wondering if it's a short or just supposed to be lower. Can't remember the exact reading but I want to say around 7-9 ohms. The others all read 21.

1 week later
#645 3 years ago

Need help guys... I got a replacement coil to open Red's eyes... wired everything up and got it all back together. As soon as you flip the switch the eyes are locked on. Explains the burnt coil in the first place. Wondering if anyone knows which transistor controls the eye opening on red... where it's located and what the part number is?

Wanna get her fixed up pretty quick. Can I unplug the connector that controls her eyes and still play it?

#647 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

If you're saying Red's eyelids are stuck up (open) and the coil stays energized, Q46 transistor is shorted.
If the eyelids are stuck down (closed), Q50 is shorted. Yes you can unplug and still play.

Looks like q46 is a TIP102. Crappy thing is I just made an order from Marco to get Other parts I needed. Dang. Wish I'd known id needed this.

Guessing the ones I ordered for other purposes won't work.

image (resized).png

#650 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

If you're saying Red's eyelids are stuck up (open) and the coil stays energized, Q46 transistor is shorted.
If the eyelids are stuck down (closed), Q50 is shorted. Yes you can unplug and still play.

And that's q46 on the main board right? The biggest one?

#651 3 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

And that's q46 on the main board right? The biggest board?

#654 3 years ago

Found someone locally who had a couple transistors kicking around. She's fixed. Thanks for the help. It's officially 100% for the first time since I bought it in March.

1 week later
#690 3 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Any thoughts on Evil Red fix?

You'd have to take it apart. I've got mine apart right now. I suspect either the eyelids broke plastic piece of the pin broke. It's possible they just came apart which would be ideal. But it's designed so you need to over rotate the eye lids to take them apart and really the only way to do that is to take it apart. So I'd be leaning towards broke. Once you take it apart I suspect it will be very clear what's broke and very clear what part you need to order. See my picture of how the eye lids connect to the pin that opens them. I suspect one of these two pieces has broke. If they just came apart (unlikely) you just need to remove the pin, remove the eyelids, pop it back together and re assemble. But I can't imagine how that would come apart while in position.

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#691 3 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

You'd have to take it apart. I've got mine apart right now. I suspect either the eyelids broke plastic piece of the pin broke. It's possible they just came apart which would be ideal. But it's designed so you need to over rotate the eye lids to take them apart and really the only way to do that is to take it apart. So I'd be leaning towards broke. Once you take it apart I suspect it will be very clear what's broke and very clear what part you need to order. See my picture of how the eye lids connect to the pin that opens them. I suspect one of these two pieces has broke. If they just came apart (unlikely) you just need to remove the pin, remove the eyelids, pop it back together and re assemble. But I can't imagine how that would come apart while in position.

Update. After pissing around for a half hour trying to get the eyelids back connected and the pins back in their coils I can tell you certainty. It's broke. No way in hell it just came a part because it is one sob to get back together. Without loosening screws and loosening the mounts of the coils there's just no way.

#700 3 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Any trick to getting the eyelids reattached to the white arm?

You need to remove the head. Pull it out from the underside. Once that's done you need to unscrew the coil mounts ( just the open and close coils) and remove the pin with the white arm entirely. I believe you'll need to remove the pin that closes the eyes too. Once that's done put the eyelids on the white arm, feed the whole thing down thru the top and put the eye lids back in. Then since they're not mounted and only connected by the wires, feed the springs and coils back on to the pins. Once they're on and everything is in position remount the open and close coils and yer done. All that's left is to put the head back up through the bottom and reassemble everything.

#707 3 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

More stupid questions.....how does the white plastic arm come off the metal pin?

Nope. Reattach it to the eye lids and attach the other pin. The with coils unscrewed and out of the way, feed everything down thru the top. Once the eyes are back in position feed the springs and coils back on the pins and remount the coils. Done. All that's left is getting the head back in to the playfield.

2 weeks later
#712 3 years ago

So I have a small problem again. My GI on the left side is out. Not completely. If you look at the bulbs they're on. Very faint but there on. I took a voltage meter and tested both the right and left side... ones that are working around 6.3ACV other side around 2ACV. Is this a ground issue? Could I have a plug in the wrong spot on the board?

I recently had the board out to replace a transistor so I'm wondering if that could be the problem.

Would appreciate the help.

#714 3 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

It always seems to be the left side on this table.
check out this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-gi-lighting-out#post-2518170
On mine, it was J120, the connector itself was burned up pretty bad.

So I checked J121 and it was burned a little on the left side. I wiggled the plug a little and if I actually pull the left side of the plug out a hair the lights work. Could this do further damage in the short term? I'll want to replace the plug just takes a while to get parts here.

#718 3 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

You should be ok for the short term, especially if you switched to LEDS, as the lower current draw will reduce heat on the connector.

I've had exclusive LED's in it since I've owned it in March. Only thing I don't have LED's in is the flashers on the back board behind the heads. Ran out of LED's.

#719 3 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

I've had exclusive LED's in it since I've owned it in March. Only thing I don't have LED's in is the flashers on the back board behind the heads. Ran out of LED's. I suspect the only reason it came to light is because I had removed the board to do some board work and pushed the plug on all the way when I replaced it.

1 year later
#1155 2 years ago

Sorry if this has already been answered in this thread but my Eddy sensor on the outside of the bulldozer is always acting up. I'll set the sensitivity and it'll work for a week, then it won't register. Seems like I need to open it up and adjust it almost weekly. Wondering is there something I can do to fix this or is there any benefit in replacing the eddy sensor board. It seems to work fine when it works... just constantly needs the sensitivity adjusted.

3 months later
#1354 2 years ago

Quick question. I bought the 6264 nvram to finally ditch the battery holder on road show. I bought it from pinitech. The limited instructions suggest that if the existing chip is a 62256 you either need a different kit or you need to run some jumpers. It says the existing chip is either a 6264 or a 62256.

But I don't see that number. Anyone know which is in a road show. Not sure if I need to do the jumpers or not.

#1358 2 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Your board should look like this..
http://www.pinitech.com/product_images/ram_locations/ramloc_wpcs.jpg
If you take a picture of the highlighted chip and/or post the markings on the chip here it'll be easy to identify. The markings don't always have the standard markings on them.
Another way is to see what is installed in R93 and W3 (jumper) on the board.
The 6264 will work regardless, but some WPC games used 62256 RAM and those games would require a jumper change as noted on the website @ http://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php (again, only if you're installing a 6264 in a game that currently has a 62256 RAM in it).

Thanks for the reply. I got the board work done professionally and the fellow that did was really good he did it in front of me and it literally took five minutes. Socket was installed it’s very clean. And further to watch you said I did look at the R 93 and W3 situation and as you mentioned the resister is there and there is no jumper at W3 from factory. So it looks like it is set up already correctly. so it looks like it is set up already correctly. fast forward to last night. I got it home, installed the board and my display was dead, the machine makes the boot up tone. But nothing happens. Pushing the menu buttons does nothing.

I reseated all the plugs and the same result however the display lights up but is all garbled so I can’t tell what’s on it.

#1359 2 years ago

Further to the above post.

When the display was out. Led d19 and d21 were on solid. D20 is off.

When the display came up garbled only d21 was on solid. Other two were off.

I’ve reseated the connectors again and the display is gone again and only d19 and d21 lit.

#1360 2 years ago

Reinstalled original chip. No change. Any help would be awesome.

#1362 2 years ago
Quoted from djh00000:

Sounds like a trace was pulled when installing the U8 socket for the NVRAM. You probably got two bongs on start up.

The traces all look really good. I was amazed at how good he was. Once he had the chip out he even showed me the board before he installed the socket. I really don’t think there’s any damaged traces. And only one bong.

#1365 2 years ago
Quoted from djh00000:

Does the D20 LED blink continually on start up? If not how many times does it blink?

No blinks. Just 19 and 21 on solid when the display is blank. If the display comes up garbled only 21 comes up solid. 20 is never on.

#1368 2 years ago
Quoted from djh00000:

It should blink continually if working correctly. If its not blinking continually it should blink 1,2 or 3 times.
1 blink = U6/G11 CPU game ROM bad
2 blinks = U8 CMOS RAM chip bad
3 blinks = U9 WPC Custom chip bad

It's not getting that far. From what I'm reading upon start up, D19 and D21 come on solid... then when the boot starts, D19 shuts off and the flash sequence begins. When I had my DMD working but Garbled... it was getting to the point where D19 shut off but no flash sequence on D20. Now my DMD is in the dark again and I'm frozen at D19 and D21 on solid.

If I had a clear working display I'm very curious to see what's reading on it... but I can't get it working at all any more.

#1372 2 years ago
Quoted from joey__p__1966:

carbonellie That is super cool! Love that it is connected to the lock light . Love to have one ! Showed my wife , she said buy it, I said it's not for sale

Look on Amazon or eBay I've seen them.

1 year later
#1844 9 months ago

Looking for some help. After more than a year down I've finally decided it's time to fix the road show. Trying to access this repair site which is awesome but only the link for part 3 is working. Does anyone have a link to the rest of this help site or some other link to a step by step repair site. I definately have board issues.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm

1 week later
#1856 9 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

That probably explains it, thanks.

Yeah only the newest version has the adjustment (6 I believe)

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