Road Show
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I just saw a local road show. Would be my second machine. Ted and Red totally rebuilt, he changed the gears from plastic to metal, mechanically it looks great. Tiny playfield wear by the city pop out. Cabinet with mild wear. Only question, he said occasional fuse will blow????? I didn’t ask details, didn’t sound like a regular issue. I saw one connector with minimal burn. We agreed $4,300. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
This is all great feedback.
I’ll ask him about the fuse situation today.
He seems a really cool guy, we agreed on price, and I’ll pick up next weekend. He took off the listing and said if I have second thoughts no worries, haven’t paid him yet. Solid dude!
How about the Ted rebuild? He took off all the ramps to get him out, then rebuilt Ted with metal gears to remove the plastic. All solenoids replaced. I know this is a difficult question, but what’s that worth? I’m figuring that’s huge for a Road Show. Hours and hours of work. Is $4,300 in this current market a fair price? With moderate cabinet wear.
Quoted from Jmckune:That seems like a fair price. Currently see 3 on here and cheapest one is 4300. Others are 4500 and 9500 though I doubt the 9500 sells for that. I’m not sure what metal parts he added to Ted unless you’re talking about the sector gear under the playfield. I just rebuilt Red and Ted, taking apart was a lot slower than putting it back together. Overall not too terrible if you were to have to do it at some point.
Correct, he replaced the under playfield sector gears with same size metal gears from a RC car. I was really impressed with his attention to detail.
Quoted from Scoot:I just paid $4500 for a decent players condition working 100% and I thought it was a great deal considering today's market.
Thanks!
Do y’all think I’ll be able to get it up a curved stairs with a dolly and 2 20’s year old guys? I got paragon upstairs, but I removed the head, and that was without dolly and using my 50 yo brut strength!
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Really hard to know what the problem is with that limited description.
I have a wh2o where one specific fuse for the DMD sometimes goes out. The only thing that happen is the DMD goes black and everything else works so I just change fuse and continue playing. This happens maybe once every half year so It doesn't really bother me.
If fuses are popping often in the game you're looking at then that would ofc be a completely different issue that need to be fixed.
I got follow up on the blown fuse. He had DMD issues and someone on pinside advised to pull off the ribbon connector and reattach. When he put it back on it was one header off and he blew the fuse.
I’m picking up my new friends (Ted and Red) on Saturday morning. I’ve got 4 men and a Dolly lined up for the stairs. I’m excited for my new pin and will hit y’all up for ideas once it’s home. Also, I’ll send plenty of photos!
Quoted from Scoot:I repainted Poor Ted's face today. I think he looks better.
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I don’t understand how it’s possible to get such perfection…… any advice?
Quoted from Scoot:Damn fine looking Paragon.
Paragon was my first restoration. Thanks to pinside it’s now working great!!!!!!
I’ve very proud of getting it back to life.
Quoted from Scoot:I recommend this paint: Tamiya X-1 gloss black.
It's acrylic so easy clean up with water but really flexible and durable. Any decent hobby shop will carry it.
It looks like you have some mylar covering that area. You should remove that first and then paint. After put more mylar to protect the paint and area.
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Thank you!!!!
For the LED under the fish, it’s a little offset. Is there a bulb with an extension neck to put there? So the light comes out the slit?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:For the LED under the fish, it’s a little offset. Is there a bulb with an extension neck to put there? So the light comes out the slit?
Please disregard.
It was my mistake.
I was using a different color bulb…..
I was using warm white.
I believe I have natural light on the rest.
Quoted from tonyf1965:I am not near my machine. I think there is a post, and the orange sign.
Can you please send a photo when convenient?
Quoted from Mocean:The overlay I've seen stops along the top edge the insert, which wouldn't help much here since the worst of it is below the insert.
Correct.
That’s my issue.
I figure the machine was too upright, and the ball fell lower to below the insert.
Quoted from TOLLS:There are 2 rubbers on the hole post with the issue. They could also be larger.
I think you’re right.
I bet a smaller solo rubber would allow the ball to fall down and not get stuck!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:One like this would work, you'd just cut what you need from it, or use the whole thing...[quoted image]
Where can I buy that?
Quoted from tonyf1965:I was having phone issues earlier. Pic of left side. This is what my machine looks like.
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Huh.
It’s that clear plastic post.
Seems odd.
I’ll find something to put there,
I find the drilled hole odd!
Quoted from Staffan:No bend on mine, it shouldn't matter as long as it lifts up high enough when it's in the non diverting position.
It could also just be that the ball goes too slow and doesn't have enough momentum.[quoted image]
Thanks for taking your time to photo. I clearly have a slight bend at the end, and yes I agree without enough momentum it doesn’t power through!
Quoted from Santis:There is only 3 settings. Normal, soft ,off.
I’ve read about removing or repositioning the weights. Even on soft setting it’s too much upstairs in my house.
Quoted from Piso:To cancel the vibration completely you have to put the weights in opposite direction (180 degrees apart). From there just move one weight a little bit and check if you like the intensity
Do I use an Allen wrench to loosen? There appears to be a screw in the top and side of the weight. Loosen both?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Do I use an Allen wrench to loosen? There appears to be a screw in the top and side of the weight. Loosen both?
Got it!
Thank you!
image (resized).jpgBulldozer sensor is not working at all. I adjusted the eddy sensor. Still nothing. I have limited electrical skills. I know the sensor and eddy board. Any simple help greatly appreciated!
Marcos is out of stock.
Are all the new eddy boards auto adjusting?
The only I can find are in Australia and UK.
Quoted from Jmckune:https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html
It is not auto adjusting but should be more reliable than the original if yours are giving you serious problems staying in adjustment
Thanks!
That’s probably my best option,
Outside of ordering from tangles in Australia.
I feel like my eddy board is toast.
After lots of manipulation I was finally able to get it to register correctly. I placed a drop of super glue onto the base of the screw. Was this a mistake? Figuring a new board will take awhile to receive from Australia?!
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I would have used blue loctite instead of super glue; just hope you never have to adjust it again or might be tricky.
I'm not sure if the problem is the potentiometer moving over time or other components on the board failing that are the root problem and adjusting the pot is the (temporary) solution?!
I've read about people replacing the pot with another one with more turns and sometimes it seem to work, sometimes not.
I really appreciate your feedback. Since I’m new at this I don’t have a lot of experience. The pot screw is really really loose and easy to move. Is that normal? That’s why I opted for super glue. Also, I figure I’ll probably get a replacement board. So, just hoping for a fix for now.
Quoted from Scoot:I'm onto the sides of the cabinet to repaint all the fade, and am just miffed by all the holes someone had put screws into. I mean, why the hell would anyone do such a thing? There are 16 holes on one side. Grrr.
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For my understanding, why paint vs replacing the entire decal?
Quoted from Scoot:About $250 reasons...
Can you please share detailed photos of the process for me to learn?
Quoted from Scoot:Ok, first you will need some stuff.
Airbrush
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Some Frisket paper (instead I use cheap Walmart shelf liner which is better and much cheaper)
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Some Tamiya translucent paint (clear red, clear orange, clear yellow, clear green)
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Apply the shelf liner as a masking over the area to be painted. Cut out the areas you want to paint with a #11 exacto knife. Peel it off.
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Paint the desired color.
Enjoy your handy work!
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First off, thank you so very very much!
By cutting with the exacto knife, I’m assuming you don’t go too deep?
I’m out of town. Can’t send a photo now. My major issue is the blue around the legs. Otherwise, it’s ok. I have read that people use rust oleum safety blue. Photo attached. Would I be a fool to try with this spray paint? I know that the airbrush is much more fine.
AE2D6BB4-4188-409E-A1D1-55909946735F (resized).jpegI was able to find a fish decal from England, with the below black area, but I can’t find any green decal to cover my wear. Does anyone have some leftover green decal from a full USA that I could use to cover my wear? Or any other suggestions?
5C7D0AA7-C6AB-4E9F-A312-C7B6CE107B05 (resized).jpegE480EE1A-0051-45E3-8BB1-1648207F7AD0 (resized).pngQuoted from TOLLS:I bought a Smart Eddy from the people here in Australia, be it about half a continent away. My mistake was I only bought one thinking the other two were ok. Well, just bought another one that arrived today just put it in and works like the first from them. Tried glueing the pot as well b4 buying. Didn’t work for me. They both just kept moving. The two I replaced are under the blade, front and back. I guess that’s where there is the most force bouncing about.
These boards just work, replace and forget. It’s an old machine and nice to know that small component is done with and bullet proof.
No more messing with those stupid old pots.
My mistake was only buying one. It’s been 10 days and it’s still at the airport awaiting international departure…..
I’m going to need some guidance from a patient pinsider. I’m having some very bizarre electrical issues and I have no idea where to start……
1) will be a four player game, then midway it turns into a one player game
2) middle of ball 2 or ball 3 it will turn into ball 1
3) the replay is set at factory setting of 500,000,000 , yet it displays at 570,000,000.
I’m at a total loss and will appreciate any help.
I just read the owners manual in detail. My cpu LED indicators are all correct. I tried my best to run through all the tests. The one thing that’s totally perplexing is my replay is absolutely set at 500,000,000
But the dmd display reads at 570,000,000 during the game♂️♂️
As per pinwiki, I reseated some connectors, pushed on some RAM on the cpu, and reset the machine. It’s now working well. I’ve read about the kahr daughter board. Is that money well spent?
Quoted from nvu4prod:It was for me to stop the resets I was having. I eventually got around to replacing the caps on my power supply board which fixed the root of the problem.
Here is my question. If the kahr daughterboard helps redirect power, if I don’t care about the cost of the kahr, does it make sense to buy a kahr in attempt to avoid the caps going bad on the power supply board. Everyone seems to support the kahr as a bandaid, but what about using it for prevention?
I got my roadshow about 6 weeks ago. I thought it had the chip upgrade for cities. See below. Yet, every game starts in New York with smash cabs, then Miami ramps then New Orleans Mardi gras. Can someone please explain the upgrade regarding city rotations?
4F1D7896-1B9E-4222-98FA-066F52798D49 (resized).jpeg52D799A6-3EE6-4CE8-B0BA-A2DC06EFD815 (resized).jpegQuoted from ThePinballCo-op:I forgot what the setting is called, but the factory choice is "East to West". Change it to "Random"
Awesome!
Thanks for the info.
Since I didn’t install it, our power went out recently and was having some issues, so reset to factory, and I didn’t know.
In menu A.2 27 is random cities
A.2 28 is how many cities until west coast released
Quoted from Newstar:Hey folks, first time posting here. A couple questions if someone is willing to assist or point me in the right direction. I'm going through a RS that was part of a container buy from Italy a number of years ago (2016).
First, none of my flashers are working. To boot, a lot of the eye functions aren't working. In digging through the forum I've seen that flashers go through J107, and as I understand from the from the solenoid/flasher table, many of the eye functions are also going through J107 too? Is my assumption that these issues are connected correct? No obvious issues with the J107 connector on the power driver board. Suggestions on how to diagnose?
Second, can anyone tell me what the parts go to that are pictured below? They were just sitting in the bottom of the cabinet.
Last, the blade can go up and down in tests and will go up and down during game play, but when multiball starts it won't raise up. If I manually trip other switches in the game (side targets by radio) it will cue the blade to raise with no problem. When it goes back down it will often struggle to go back up, raising by millimeters. Any thoughts?
Thank you to anyone who's willing to offer a little help!
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I’m a half step above a beginner, but my suggestion is repin the J107 to eliminate that as an issue. It’s simple and quick. I just started repinning a few months ago and it cleaned up tons of electrical issues.
Red’s eyelids won’t open, seems like it’s trying. Can anyone kindly refer me to a link which can help detail opening the head and repairs?
Better Red than Ted!
Quoted from Jmckune:Are you using screws that are too long? The face cover shouldn’t touch any moving parts
Thanks so much for the reply.
It’s been working great for six months, about 40 games a week. It seems like something is sticking. I moved the eyelids left to right and pushing to the right they move smoothly and to the left a bit sticky. Are these correctly positioned? The slight space on the left.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI was able to manipulate the eyelids and replace the face, and it’s working fine FOR NOW. But what’s the issue? That spring on top the solenoid (I doubt). Seems more like the plastics are getting hung up. Drops of mechanic oil? Not sure……
Quoted from TOLLS:There is a centering flange that might need replacing. There is a head diagram in this thread. There is also rebuilding procedures for Ted. Red is same but easier to get out. The game is at the age where you should really rebuild them both.
Both Ted and Red were completely rebuilt by the previous owner, who was meticulous. That’s why I bought this machine. Honestly, just seems like the plastic pieces are getting caught up on the right side. If it continues I think I’ll put a tiny drop of lithium grease where the plastics connect.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Thanks for the pictures of the red/ ted breakdown. I'm experiencing the same problem with both faces. Eyes closed all the time.
Also, I have already adjusted the eddy sensor boards in front of both faces and red's is already out of adjustment. Is this a constant battle to keep them in adjustment??
At this point I’ve decided the mechanicals on the side of the eyelids are getting stuck. Also, looks like the plastic pieces are a little warped. Currently everything is working fine. Next time they get stuck a drop of lithium grease will be the test.
Regarding the eddy boards, I had the same problem and ordered the self adjusting board from Australia. It was gonna be a few weeks for delivery, so I adjusted perfectly and put a drop of super glue on the adjusting screw (yeah, everyone already told me to use the locktite stuff instead), but it’s been perfect for 3 months. If it goes bad I have the auto adjusting board at home to replace.
Hope this helps.
I posted this previously.
Occasionally, my roadshow shows the replay at 460,000,000
Despite the fact that it’s set at 500,000,000.
Next level 920,000,000 then 1,380,000.
It’s happening again….
Quoted from altan:Maybe look here?
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Thank you!!!!!!!
1903F93B-21E0-409B-BC85-26A9649636A5 (resized).jpegJust curious, any options to modify sound? Variety? Maybe more Carlene Carter, less taxi driver? There was a radio bit recently that was nice. Maybe from Nashville. Are there settings? Change sound rom?
Quoted from TOLLS:Looks like a screw that holds one of the faces on, but could be a number of things.
You, my friend, are brilliant!
‘‘Twas the side screw on Red’s face.
Quoted from Aflacjack:Joined the club last month and seems the eddy switch thinks a ball is going across it constantly. Adjustment sucks so I ordered the pinbits boards to hopefully fix it once and forget.
Malcolm at tanglestech auto adjusting eddy board from Australia. Takes two weeks shipping. The bomb!
How many y’all have a kahr daughterboard?
Was having some resets thought secondary to summer A/C. Kahr installed and playing great. Chase the ghost? Or enjoy the game and deal with it later if worse problems?
Any chance someone can send me a photo of the location of the voltage regulator?
Thoughts on changing to the PSU5?
Seems a very simple idea to try.
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Any chance someone can send me a photo of the location of the voltage regulator?
Thoughts on changing to the PSU5?
Seems a very simple idea to try.
Clarification, I know where the voltage regulator is located. Looking for a photo for orientation for a new PSU5. Is there any soldering involved? Or just remove screws and replace? Do I need to remove solder under the screws? Do I need to remove the board? Or can I remove the solder using my superwick desoldering tape.
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Please help.
Simple explanation works best with me.
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I think I figured it out…. All making sense…
I need a Chris Hibler and a u24 6264.
Previously had reset issues,
Point well taken… the kahr was a bandaid.
All feedback appreciated!
Quoted from clempo:Try to reseat your connectors at the DMD and DMD controller board. If that does not work, try reseating the connectors between the MPU and the DMD controller.
Clempo,
Appreciate you taking the time and thought to help.
Already tried, figuring that was the easiest test.
Will try again later today, outta respect and hope from your feedback!
J
Had an intense game. Shaker motor wild. Multi ball followed by double balls. Doing great. Then BAM. Screen went like photo. Only horizontal lines. Will shut off when on for a minute. Ideas? DMD controller board? If so, I think I’d prefer to buy a Rottendog and be done, it’s a worn out board, and I’d spend more in the SF Bay Area than $150 to have someone fix it. Photo below.
In addition, if it is the DMD controller board, should I buy a replacement LED DMD as well? There are two I see, from pinsound and XPIN. I previously got other stuff from XPIN, but it’s a bit more expensive than pinsound.
Appreciate the help!
Quoted from MG7322:Did you rule out re-seating the DMD cable on both ends?
Nailed it! I checked the DMD on another game and it works fine. I reseated the ribbons and connector at the DMD and the DMD controller board. I forgot to check the ribbon at the computer where it goes to the DMD board, and it is very loose! Reseated it and Now everything works fine. Just wondering, is the loose ribbon usually from the ribbon side or the pins? It’s very loose. So, I’d want to replace the ribbon, unless y’all advise against if it may damage the pins.
Upper left lock kick out sudden was acting odd. Not recognizing a lock ball, and then not popping it out. Lifted the playfield and saw the attached photo green wire was broken off. I have basic soldering skills. Need to confirm the exact location to resolder. I believe the two green ends essentially kiss together, but want to confirm.
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Bakersfield, CA