Prices appear to have gone up a lot for this pin in the last two years, perhaps more than others. Those prices are speculative though, not sure what they are actually selling for...

I joined the club a year ago and cannot imagine a scenario in which leave the club. I love it.

I have a page in a pixar art book that's filled with just eyes that they used. That might make a nice source of replacement eye stickers if people want to make their own.

If they released a ColorDMD for roadshow I'd have to buy one without a doubt. I can't see putting one in just for Sigma. I guess I could change my tune if my DMD were dead...

It's important to clarify how you hit it. It's an enormous target, the size of three drops!

If I hit dead on the center of the three I'm very likely to drain SDTM. Hitting the left most one is more often forgiving, but the best shot for me is hitting the rightmost one from the left flipper such that the ball bounces toward the pops area. It rarely does feed into the pops, but often just hitting the post in that area is enough to prevent a SDTM drain.

Absolutely make sure you're level. No point in building up muscle memory for incorrect angles. Since I leveled my RS I find I miss everything, and Red is always easier to tell me so

Why do people get so hot and bothered when someone calls RS a sequel to Funhouse? It's so clearly the case. The layout similarities are so numerous. If someone made a Bride of Rudy retheme, I wouldn't want it but I bet many would...

In service mode in the dozer test: are your up/down opto switches working? Without the switches, even if the motor works, the fame will not know so (and will lose track of where the dozer blade is)

I had a very similar issue with my dozer blade for the longest time. I was able to get it working just by pulling the connector on the opto board and reseating it. When it dies again I'll just reflow the solder like I should have the first time

Do the switches "up" and "down" update properly as the motor moves? That's what matters

Switches. Not the dozer moving but the switches (indicated by the boxes with X's in them) in the dozer test menu. If the boxes don't chsnge then your dozer switches (which allow the game software to determine where the dozer blade is, physically) aren't working.

That was my EXACT behavior. Last time I was under I checked everything on that board with a DMM and it tested okay. My wiggled the connector and reseated it and it's been working since. If it fails again I'll reflow the solder to the connector pins.

I was blown away when I saw that deal. Congrats. If you want to sell that colorDMD drop me a line

Damn. I have this problem and I could swear I didn't used to have it. I'm at one in 10 or so, but that's on average so some games 20 shots and it won't happen, then two in a row. I can't figure out a way to fix it either. I didn't think it was an airball, but rather something about the way it's hitting the switch bracket?

Thanks for the tip on that ramp, I'll investigate tonight.

Your LEDs look quit nice, but I would hate losing the GI fading effects.

Check the switch in the blast zone

(Edit: beat me by 20 seconds!)

Red has developed a lazy jaw --her mouth always opens but doesn't always close. Any suggestions as to what I should check first?

Thanks!

This is why you should always use a telescopic magnet tool to clear all the old screws and washers and things out of the bottom of the cabinet --that way if something drops and you see a screw down there you know it's the one you just lost.

Also do as I say, not as I do...

Second page of the PDF. See the column "drive xistor" with the Q values? Those correspond to values screened on the driver board

The overlay I've seen stops along the top edge the insert, which wouldn't help much here since the worst of it is below the insert.