(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)


By webdiddy

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 31 minutes ago by per3per3
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#1756 12 months ago

I picked up a RS yesterday and I have string out in the backbox. Could someone please take a pic and post of j120 and j121? According to the manual, j121 should only have 6 wires on it and j120 has 10, but in my game it’s reversed. It’s obvious the connectors on j120 are not factory so I’m thinking somewhere along the line these connectors were plugged into the wrong headers.

Thx

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#1758 12 months ago
Quoted from soren:

The connectors are interchangable. GI for backbox and playfield respetively.

I switched them and now all the lights are working

#1760 12 months ago
Quoted from soren:

In that case you have worn or pitted connectors. Or cracked solder joints. Some of this comes to work, sort of, when messing around with them. But it will not last.
These connectors are 100% alike.

The pinouts are different for 120 and 121. The board is a newer rottendog and the connectors all test good for continuity.

#1761 11 months ago

Anyone know where to get a shaker motor and the related parts for the game? A game i picked up didn't have it.

I realize these are hard to find, if anyone has an extra setup, please let me know.

#1762 11 months ago

I spoke with Ks arcade and they indicated they could make shaker boards if they had a spare to work from. Anyone have a spare to help get some boards made?

#1767 11 months ago
Quoted from razoraustralia:

I'm in need of both the shaker motor board and shaker motor as well.
Why is it that the shaker motor in particular is so hard to find?

The motor isn’t hard to find, it’s the board that no longer exists. We need to find someone in the community willing to lend their board to Ks arcade so they can make a new one. I’ll reward anyone that is willing to do it, not sure with what, but I’ll make it worth their while.

#1768 11 months ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Mine shakes so hard, it's annoying, so I turned it off. Not sure if they are all that way.

Can I borrow your board since you aren’t using it right now? Probably would need it for a month or so to get the new board made.

I’m also willing to buy your shaker motor and board if you don’t want it.

#1769 11 months ago
Quoted from rygar:

I have checked out my Williams/Bally small boards spare sets and I have a spare set of shaker and board. Unfortunately I need it for RFM conversion to shaker motor. I can help you with elements/measures of shaker board.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thx, but Ks needs the actual board to test the traces.

#1771 11 months ago
Quoted from rygar:

I can wait with my RFM shaker upgrade. Please PM me the details about your address.

Pm sent, thank you!

#1779 11 months ago

Finished shopping my game today, had it about two weeks, finally done. Added LEDs, new rubber, new coil sleeves, fixed reds eyes and jaw, new balls, backboard (blue) and trough light (white). There were orange switch covers that came with the game so threw those on. Just need to make some target decals and get a new scoop cliffy....and debate if I want a color dmd for it, but it's playing fantastic, love the game. Waiting on some mirror blades from coin taker.
IMG_20190607_193617 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190607_193556 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190607_193702 (resized).jpg

#1781 11 months ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

The game is one of the greats. The Soren chip will take it to the next level. Fitted mine a couple of days ago, just brilliant. Thanks.

I added the new cpu ROM today, forgot about that. I still have it on the stock setting though.

#1784 11 months ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

Swapped out my ColorDMD from Roadshow to Fish Tales the other day. But when I plugged the old display to Roadshow and turned it on, the machine's shaker went on for a second and shut off. Now nothing is happening when you turn the machine on. Figured I blew a fuse and will test them when I get home from work today, but wanted to see if there is anything else I should look at if the machine does not have a blown fuse.

Did you plug all the cables in the correct way?

#1787 11 months ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Swapped a few PM’s today and I’ll be fronting the effort on new shaker motor boards.
I’ve got a schematic, I’ve got a working board, and I’ve got a road-show to test it in. Couple prototypes I’ll be getting boards ordered for in a week or two, so I’ll try to get these in at the same time.

Outstanding, thank you! Now I just need to find a motor housing and the weights. Wonder if I can use the stern shaker housing and weights and just replace the motor?

#1789 11 months ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Can't speak for using the Stern motor without having one to look at, so I'll decline to answer either way for the moment on that question.
But for the repro of the A-19720 board? That will be happening. Won't know exact price for a bit, other than to say 'not expensive'.
-Hans

The stern motor will not work, voltage is not compatible. I'm more interested in the housing and the weights. I think that will work with a RS motor.

#1792 11 months ago

This game is giving me a headache. I literally just got done fixing red's jaw for the second time and it is working perfectly only to play a game and have the bulldozer not go up in game mode (works in test mode). Both proximity boards for Ted register in switch tests. I believe the issue is the wires going to the blade interrupter board, when I touch them or wiggle them, the dozer up switch is registering. If dozer up is registering, I'm guessing the game thinks the dozer is up and that's why it won't rise during the game. I ran out of time last night, but hoping reseating the wires in the connector will fix it. Very strange that all of a sudden the wires are causing switch activation, though I was in there messing with red quite a bit and may have pulled something.

If that doesn't fix it, guess I'll start reflowing solder on the board.

There's a few threads on this, has to be relatively simple to fix, but frustrating to figure out.

#1794 11 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

This game is giving me a headache. I literally just got done fixing red's jaw for the second time and it is working perfectly only to play a game and have the bulldozer not go up in game mode (works in test mode). Both proximity boards for Ted register in switch tests. I believe the issue is the wires going to the blade interrupter board, when I touch them or wiggle them, the dozer up switch is registering. If dozer up is registering, I'm guessing the game thinks the dozer is up and that's why it won't rise during the game. I ran out of time last night, but hoping reseating the wires in the connector will fix it. Very strange that all of a sudden the wires are causing switch activation, though I was in there messing with red quite a bit and may have pulled something.
If that doesn't fix it, guess I'll start reflowing solder on the board.
There's a few threads on this, has to be relatively simple to fix, but frustrating to figure out.

Just to close the loop, fixed the dozer issue. Loose wire in the connector to the opto blade board. Easy fix. Hope this helps someone else.

Quoted from HHaase:

Just waiting on a check to come in before ordering the shaker motor board blanks. Layout is done and ready to submit on these.
In the meantime, anybody have a busted left ramp they can spare? I want to make up some kind of cover to keep the ball from flying off the ramp, but don't want to tear my game apart to get access for measuring.
-Hans

Excellent. Thx again!

#1797 11 months ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Pricing on the shaker boards will be $30 retail, fully assembled, to original Williams specs. Simple enough that I don't see a need to make any improvements, and all the original parts are available on the open market. Even the original size/style heatsink.
I should have them ready to ship by around the 15th of July. Parts going on order this weekend.

Now we just need to build the motor and bracket assembly. I’ve investigated a bit. I bought the actual motor from Marco, pricey, but not being picky. The motor will not fit a stern shaker bracket, the bearings/mounts are too big for the holes. I looked at my Cgc shaker I have for mbR and it will work. So where to get those brackets, weights and cover? I spoke with Cgc, told me to contact pps. I spoke with pps and the response was sorry, we can’t supply it, great. Spoke with Terry at pinball life, no luck. So it seems the only choice is to buy a Cgc shaker, remove the motor and replace it with the one from Marco; simple enough, but pricey for just a metal bracket, weights and cover. Or if anyone has a source on these brackets? Who makes them for Cgc?

#1798 11 months ago

Painted my radio...

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3 weeks later
#1811 10 months ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Is any one located in San Diego CA who can burn this rom.?
Thanks Martin

You can get it from astill entertainment in Canada, $13 shipped, takes about 10 days to arrive.

1 week later
#1817 10 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Has anyone installed this mod?

Pinballsupernova has it on his game.

#1820 10 months ago

Can someone please post a picture of their shaker board wiring. I've seen a game with the board wired with a red loop, but manual says the blue/yellow wire should be looped. Thanks
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#1823 10 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. That seems to be how these are wired, but that's different than what the manual shows.

1 week later
#1828 9 months ago
Quoted from TateCenter:

I was having a lot of trouble with the GI and got some board work done. It has worked great since then and I had to do it some justice with LEDs. What a difference it makes! I also added the LED rings to the pop bumpers and the a lighting strip to the ball drain from Comet. Now all I have to do is fix Reds Eyelids.[quoted image][quoted image]

Iike the pop number rings, but the trough still looks really dark. Here's ours. You need a back light too!

Reds eyes are easy to fix and she's not hard to remove. It's either the spring, replace even if it looks ok, or the centering pin.
MVIMG_20190618_205031 (resized).jpg

#1830 9 months ago
Quoted from TateCenter:

Wow those back lights make a difference. Are they just LED strips?

Yep, huge difference. We have them on our site.

#1835 9 months ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

My bulldozer works during test but not during game play. Believe it is the board but can not find the board anywhere.

You likely have a loose wire in the connector to the board. Put game in switch test mode, lift play field and jiggle the wires attached to the connector to the board. anything register? Reseat the wires in the connector regardless. The board is NLA, I’m afraid.

#1843 9 months ago
Quoted from LargemouthAss:

Hard reset did not resolve the issue

Did you try to reseat the wires in all the connectors to/from the board? I had a similar issue with the dozer blade, would rise and fall in test mode, but not in game play, was a loose wire.

1 week later
#1852 9 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

So I have looked in both standard and feature adjustments for the option to turn down shaker strength and cannot find it. Can someone tell me where to specifically look for that adjustment.

Not sure in code, but you can adjust the shaker itself. Aligning the weights so they are in the same direction is maximum shake. Putting them at 180degrees of each other is minimal. I have mine set at about 160 degrees and it’s perfect.

1 month later
#1860 8 months ago

In switch test mode, if you press the flipper button, does it register on screen? If it doesn’t, that suggests it’s not likely a mechanical issue and you have a broken wire somewhere.

1 week later
#1866 7 months ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

I have had the same issue with my Road Show since I picked it up and hoping I can find some info to help fix it. Red's mouth stays open all the time and during game play, the dozer blade does not work (go up and down). Red's mouth is always open and does not close during test though the dozer blade works during test mode.
I have done research and believe it is a board issue. Does anyone know which board I will need to look at, can it be fixed or is there any replacement boards out there?
The game plays great and I have lived with the dozer and Red's mouth not working for a while now, but really want to get this issue fixed. Any advice/guidance is very much appreciated.

If the dozer blade works in test mode, you have a loose wire in your connector on the dozer board. Lift the playfield, put the game in switch test mode and jiggle the wires. If something registers, loose wire, reseat in connector.

For reds mouth, can you move it manually up and down with your hand? Plastic Gears could be stripped. You can also compare to ted. Parts are available at Marco.

3 months later
#1914 4 months ago

Ted’s eyes wouldn’t close last night. I hear solenoid firing in test mode, but not dropping. It’s either the spring, centering washer or post. Simple fix, but taking Ted out is going to be a chore, ugh!

Anyone have any tips? Seems like half the game needs to be disassembled to get him out.

Red comes out really easy and I already fixed her eyes.

#1916 4 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

The only tips I have regarding removing teds head is: take it all off. It took a lot of time. I was trying to remove as little as possible. That took a lot more time than to just remove it all. In the end I removed everything an changed all the rubbers while I was at it. I also changed all the parts in teds head.

Thanks, I think I’ve gotten lucky and fixed it, but I’m not sure it’s a long term fix. The pin was stuck so from under the playfield, I was able to free it by pushing and pulling on it. It’s still possible the spring needs replacement, but for now it is working,

1 month later
#1990 85 days ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Two questions.
1. The left plunger is not strong enough to make it to the top should I user a stronger sprint than stock ?
2. On Ocassion their eyes don’t quite fully close or close slowly . Am I gonna have to remove the heads?

Unfortunately for 2, the answer is yes. You likely need a new spring and or centering grommet. Red is easy to get out, Ted not so much.

On the plunger, make sure ball is being struck in the center, but a new spring might be needed.

2 weeks later
#2003 70 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Some times my Ted's mouth doesn't close fully after he says something. He is then left with a (semi) open mouth until the next time he talks, and everything is fine again for a while. The amount of gap to the top when it happens varies a lot. It happens occasionally, but not in every game.
Works fine in test mode.
Any ideas? Could it be something as simple as a loose connection or a cold soldering on the motor driver board?

Likely the plastic gears are worn. I believe you may be able to replace them without having to remove Ted. You can with Red. You could also try a little dry lube to see if that helps first.

2 months later
#2081 8 hours ago
Quoted from per3per3:

When you say eddy board adjustment what exactly do you mean?

What board did you get as the replacement and where did you get it from?

Look under the playfield in front of reds mouth, you’ll see a board recessed into the playfield. There is a potentiometer on it that you can adjust to make it more or less sensitive.

If the game won’t start, it may not be recognizing that you have the right number of balls in the game. Pull them out, make sure you have right number, put game in test mode and feed them into trough one by one and see if all switches activate.

For teds eyes, you likely need a new spring and/or centering grommet. Unforuntately, Ted is very difficult to get out, you have to take apart a good part of the upper playfield.

#2084 6 hours ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Really appreciate the advice and fixed the Eddy board switch error. I was mistaken about the start button issue...it's the wiring on the start button. The button doesn't register in test and I tried a brand new switch and still nothing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Look at your buy-in button, I believe it’s wired the same as the start button.

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