When dealing with the dozer and teds eddy board. Is it the eddy sensor itself or the driver board that is usually flaky and needs to be replaced? I adjusted to potentiometer on my new game and it started detecting dozer hits. Mid game the dozer started going up and down randomly so I’m getting it’s related to the eddy sensor as the initial adjustment is what stopped it doing that in the first place.

The one with the light on it or the thin one directly in front of Ted?

Either you lifted the traces or you did indeed install them backwards. Use a DMM to determine if there is power at the opto pads on the board

For what it’s worth, my dozer down opto is not working and the dozer keeps running trying to find the down position to no avail until the ball goes into play

Red is pretty much rebuilt. I noticed the centering bar isn’t doing much centering when she looks one way. Is it just worn out and in need of replacement? Can I take it out and try to flatten it?

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I replaced the crank and crank liner. It was actually the eyelets for the centering bar that were worn. I crimped those in and eyes are centering now

Working on ripping this thing apart to get to Ted. I’m getting close to the part where I’m not sure what to do next. Obviously that other ramp is gonna have to come out. Are the bulldozer arms attached to the Ted bracket? If so I’m not sure how I’m gonna get Ted out as it doesn’t look like they unscrew from what I can see so far and they also won’t fit below the playfield.

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Ted has been successfully extracted and the entire playfield cleaned. Ready for the rebuild of the heads and new rubber throughout. This game will look good when finished

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Looks like the piece that sits on top of Teds bulldozer

Not sure, my game is apart right now getting fixed up but this is what it looks like

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Anyone have any ideas or good place for me to look on this issue? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-dozer-issue-1

Are you referring to the connector that directly attaches to the dozer opto or somewhere else? I feel it’s likely the mess of wires as the opto board is slightly warm to the touch which to me indicates power is definitely making it to it. If sorting that mess of wires doesn’t do anything I will be shocked.

I don’t think it’s that anymore. Completely unplugged the switch matrix from CPU and dozer down was still reporting closed

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Can someone take a picture of their connector at J118 on the power driver? The schematic is saying that ground comes from connector J118 pin 3. That connector was very loose prior to me removing the CPU board. It appears to have been redone and I think possibly done incorrectly, mine is showing what appears to be a black ground wire in pin 2 at J118 and a grey-yellow in pin 3

Thanks guys. That wasn’t it. I saw the 4 and it looked like a 1

Was able to sort out the dozer issue which means I now have a 100% RS! Can’t believe I didn’t seek one of these out before. Seriously fun!

Would need more info to be of any help. Which fuse would be a good starting point

That seems like a fair price. Currently see 3 on here and cheapest one is 4300. Others are 4500 and 9500 though I doubt the 9500 sells for that. I’m not sure what metal parts he added to Ted unless you’re talking about the sector gear under the playfield. I just rebuilt Red and Ted, taking apart was a lot slower than putting it back together. Overall not too terrible if you were to have to do it at some point.

Got all the issues on mine sorted except one last thing. The wig wag lights on both ramps are activating and deactivating at the correct times, but instead of flashing, they stay lit solid the entire time they are active. Would the problem be the wig wag board(s)?

Can someone explain the logic of the wig wag circuits? On mine, both bridge out lights turn on and off at the correct time but instead of alternating as expected, both sides stay illuminated the entire time the lamps are active

It looks really good! Not sure if you did on purpose but on the front behind the road show sign those mountains were actually a dark blue/grey originally. Looks good either way though!

Buy it. They are on Marco and likely elsewhere

Edit just looked. Can’t find the auto one but pinball life has new ones. I haven’t had any problems with the originals so I wouldn’t worry about getting the auto ones

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html

It is not auto adjusting but should be more reliable than the original if yours are giving you serious problems staying in adjustment

If it works fine at first and then stops working, you likely need a new motor.

At least they are cheap! Less than $50

When it’s working at first, do the movements seem slow and spongey or very fast and snappy? Both Red and Ted on my game have a very snappy open close motion on their mouths when taking.

Well I can’t verify this is the original one, but mine looks very very good.

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OCD kicked in, your pop bumper caps are in the wrong position, they all need to move 1 spot clockwise. They match up with the skirt colors. I thought mine was gonna be bad to get going. Worst part is getting to Ted because every ramp has to come off to do it easily.

Take a picture of that area. I’d be willing to bet the rubbers are incorrect

Those two posts below have the incorrect rubber on. It’s supposed to look like this.

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Ha must be a common mistake. I had a Roadshow that was separate from the one pictured and it was put out for public play, after a couple of hours someone informed me of a stuck ball and I saw it sitting in that same spot with the same incorrect rubber placement. Really import to visualize ball paths when placing rubber to verify what was there before was correct or not. In this case, as you found out, the 4 smaller rings essentially created a hole for a ball to wedge into in a spot that should have been a bouncy guide! Glad that’s what it was though as it’s an easy fix!

Like multiple clicks per eye turn or just once per turn? You might hear a click when they turn from the metal rod being pulled into the solenoid and hitting the stop.

What’s the best way to loosen the one way gate on the shooter lane? Most of the time when the ball is plunged, the gate sticks in the up position until a pop bumper is activated. This is of course annoying as an attempt at a soft plunge skill shot instead of going to the flipper will just roll back to the shooter again.

Take a picture underneath those buttons of the wires. One is likely broken or in wrong place if only one button isn’t working

Are you using screws that are too long? The face cover shouldn’t touch any moving parts

You really don’t need the white plastic. If it’s causing a hang up, remove the one

If they are in correctly there shouldn’t be any friction. The piece looks like it’s a guide or spacer. If I remember correctly, the white piece provides a smooth area for the eyelids to rotate it looked like possibly in your picture that the one side wasn’t pushed into the bracket all the way which may be causing it to squeeze the eyelid.

Mine is currently like this as well but goes in and out. I need to pull display and resolder the last connection point and you likely need to as well

Eddy sensor likely on very edge of adjustment and specific vibration is enough to knock it out so it triggers

No, what’s likely happening is one or both of your dozer optos are flakey or the connection to the motor is flaky. They only reason the dozer blade wouldn’t be signaled to move is both dozer optos showing open (aka dead no read between each other).

This can occur intermittently which means it could function properly in test but not during gameplay with the various vibrations. The only things that need to happen for the dozer to move up are 1. Two balls detected in ball lock area when lock is lit. 2. Both dozer optos registering strongly in test and gameplay where there may be other vibrations (during second ball lock shaker motor activates which could be triggering the bad intermittent connection that would not trigger in other parts of gameplay). And 3. The dozer blade motor must have a solid connection to power so that the drive transistor can connect and signal the motor to activate.

Or missing centering flange and coil plunger hitting wooden base

Too strong of a spring can cause binding as the vertical linkage opens the eyelids. After that coil fires, the horizontal coil moves forward as it is spring loaded to catch the eyelids to prevent them from closing. When the horizontal coil fires, it unlatches the vertical plunger which closes the eyelids. Make sure you have the correct springs on both vertical and horizontal

Either you have the wrong springs or you have the linkages or coils put on incorrectly. The horizontal coil fires to release the eyelids. The vertical coil fires to open the eyelids

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-424
Check manual but I believe 4 of these will get you taken care of

When I got mine, both of the spring pins on the end of the plunger that attach it to the diverter were broken, this would cause it to open slightly but not enough to really do anything

Bend the switch a little bit

There are only 4 springs related to the head mechanisms, 1 for eyes open on vertical coil, 1 for horizontal coil which allows eyes to close, and two that goes from the back of the plastic jaw to the scoop to use as a pivot point which should make the jaw be open when there is no motor attached. There is also a “spring bar” which controls eye centering but it is a thin metal rod and not a traditional spring

You can see the edge of the 2 springs I think you’re talking about in this photo

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I can’t remember if it was Red or Ted on mine, but one of them had the vertical coil replaced that had built in thinner opening on both sides that wouldn’t allow the centering flange to go in, I’m thinking Red. The thinner opening did exactly what the centering flange does and hasn’t caused problems so I didn’t bother replacing the coil.

Yes

Here is a pic from when I was still working on mine. Teds spotlight attaches to the crossover wireform

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It has a connector. If you look carefully at my pic there is an insulated black wire that goes back towards the flying rocks ramp and connects there

Mine is clear

I’m other news, I finally got rid of the horrendous purple lights someone installed around the map and installed cliffys for start city and blast zone repair. I also put on new dozer decals and got rid of the blue flashers that were installed for some reason and replaced with white.

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Mine was already there when I got it, so no help there. The flasher domes can be twisted counterclockwise slightly and will be removable sockets can then be removed from the back. You may want to cut the shape of the hole vs an x to avoid wrinkles when you put flasher back in

I have a question about the bridge out lights. On my machine, both of them turn on and off at the appropriate times, but instead of doing the wig wag like they are supposed to, both LEDs stay on when active. This goes for both left and right. Is this likely something on the wig wag boards or elsewhere?

If I unplug them individually, both of them still have both sides illuminated independently of each other. So even with one side unplugged and off, the other side remains to have both lights stay illumined when it is on.
It looks like there is an LM555CN on both of those boards and it’s purpose seems to match up with controlling the pattern of lights. This game was early production so it’s possible both of them were in a bad batch I guess?
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It could be the result of a poor socket connection arching inside of the base. Also check to make sure the two spades where the wires are soldered are not making direct contact

When you say works fine do you mean the motor moves or do you mean the motor moved and the optos trigger on and off correctly? If the game is not correctly indicating up down on the optos, the bulldozer won’t move

The real fix is likely replacing the power capacitors and ensuring that you ribbon cables + other power connections on the power driver are solid with no cold solder joints and reseating or in some cases repinning connectors.

Are you using a non ghosting bulb?

That’s the issue then. The matrix has constant trickle voltage due to being wired as a matrix. Not enough to light incandescent but enough for led. Each game is random in where it manifests the ghosting with regular SMD. you might even find that if you change just the lamp for the lock, another bulb may start to ghost.

Double check to make sure everything lined up correctly. I hear clicks on mine but no buzzing. Maybe spring bar was placed wrong or the eyes hooked in wrong?

Apparently nothing.

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Try reflowing the pins that those ribbon cables plug into. They’re very small so be careful not to bridge 2 pins. But that cable is where the sound data comes from.

Yes, leave it alone. It’s for games where the post nearest the start city scoop has been blasted off from repeated hits combined with very thin wood.

Either you had a wire break off of that
Solenoid or you have multiple solenoids not working and have a fuse blown.

Check the diodes on the other switches in the row or column that both optos are in. Mine had a janky connection to a switch from the coin door interface board that caused both to show open

So Ted goes to sleep but dozer blade doesn’t raise?

Likely a broken wire for the eyes right coil inside the head. The coils are very small and the lugs are often broken if they haven’t been replaced

Yes. And to do so, every ramp and habitrail has to come out. It’s kind of a pain. But worth it. If you do it, I would fully rebuild Ted so that you don’t have to take apart again. Red is much easier to access.

Sometimes the wire just broke off and sometimes the entire lug breaks off. If the latter, you would need a new coil. I would also take this opportunity to definitely replace the plastic crank arm that controls the eyes. And also the plastic linkages for the coil (eyes open) and (eyes close) there are 3 different plastic parts inside that are probably brittle by this point if they haven’t already broken.
Here is a pic I have of Ted when it was apart.

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https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-19258
Crank arm

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14030
Main eyelid

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14028
Eyes shut

These 3 I would replace at least on Ted. Red you can wait until they break as she’s easy to remove if needed.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SM-30-1100
Here is the eyes left and right coil which can be assessed after inspection if it’s needed or not

If you’re going all in I’d recommend replacing the brass eyelets on the spring bar. These are also usually worn out and are responsible for re centering the eyes. Blinking problems usually due to bad or worn out springs. There are a lot of parts in those heads.

I don’t know without looking, but if the springs look weak or questionable I’d replace those. The eyelets are optional depending on their condition as well. Take a look at the springs by taking off the face and simulating the coil action, if they pop quick and snappy they should be good, if they seem mushy, slow, or don’t close all the way, the likely culprit is the spring

I just finished shopping my Rollergames. Frankly, it was more of a hassle than the strip down to remove TED to rebuild his head. On RG there are no sliding playfield rails so in order to remove the wall ramp I had to take the entire playfield out to access the screws for the wire guard over the wall ramp and then I could remove all wire forms on it and finally able to remove the Wall. It’s a lot to take off but not difficult.

This may be a sign of bad brass eyelets. While the spring bar puts pressure on the crank arm, the brass eyelets put pressure on the spring bar to allow to to function right. The eyelets are held in towards the back of the metal box by a screw on each side that cover the eyelets and hold them in place.

Not on the front of the crank arm. I’m talking the two that go directly into the metal box that the spring bar is held in place by. The frame for the head.

There’s actually 3 in the game. Ted has 2, one being in front of the bulldozer, and the other right in front of his mouth. Red has 1 in front of her mouth. Lift the playfield and locate all 3 boards. There is a tiny potentiometer on the boards that has a screwdriver adjustment. Turn it to the right until the light comes on and when it does, turn it back to the left slowly until the light just turns off.

Is your coin door open during the flasher test? High voltage is disabled with door open which would stop any coil or flashers on high power from working with the door open. You’ll need to either close the door after starting the test or pull the switch outward until it clicks.

You can also just hit enter on the coin door then back out of the test menu, it’ll automatically empty the bunker

I would assume one of the screws that attaches the dozer to the frame box has fallen out. It shouldn’t be possible for it to hit the post and it also looks very lopsided right there.

Is your ramp entrance switch working really well? That switch is very far ahead of the diverter and it should have plenty of time even for a fast ball.

Only thing I can think of is the plunger is broken and rigged back together. You’ll have to look behind the backboard to get a good look at it. I ended up having to replace both of my diverter plungers when I got mine.

I just sold mine to a guy up in Chicago and he has it posted for sale. His price is insane imo but you may be able to talk him down as I don’t believe he’s had any movement. It’s on Facebook marketplace. Woodridge IL

I always thought that noise was a turn signal indicator

You shouldn’t be able to get a direct hit into Ted’s mouth from the plunger. It may hit off the bulldozer but not go into the open mouth

It connects near the radio riot sign on the left wire form above the playfield. I can’t find any pictures of what it plugs into in my album but I can clearly see the end of that lamp cord is on that side. What are the connector color options for that area? Any of the connectors with green wires in them are switch matrix. Red wires are lamp matrix. Remaining should be GI circuit and it should only be available on left side

That is correct, colors inside likely didn’t match as they likely used what was available knowing it would be mostly covered in the shrink tubing

1) Just buy the plunger if you have reason to suspect the incorrect one is there.

2) this would be caused by the incorrect wiring being installed on the coils in Ted’s head. The coils are identical but if they reversed the wires, it would cause the open coil to fire when it calls for a close and vice verse. Sorry to say taking Ted out is a bit of a pain.