Hey guys, just picked up a RS yesterday and it doesn't have the factory shaker. I have done a little looking around for a new shaker kit but I haven't found anything. Is there a direct replacement kit for this game?

Ok thanks for the info, if anyone has an extra shaker from a Road Show I am interested

I have a bigger problem I am dealing with now anyway. After playing RS for a few games every so often when I hit both flipper buttons the game would power off and then power back up in a couple seconds on its own. After a few more games it started powering down after just hitting the left flipper button. After a few more games it powered down and then wouldn't come back on. Now when I switch the game on the speakers make a small noise and that's it? The game will not turn on. Where should I start?

I also spoke with the seller of the game, and he said this was not happening for him. Something might have came loose during transportation, but I checked all the connections and nothing was loose.

I don't know the seller well, but I don't think he is lying. Either way after reseating the ribbon cable the game is now turning on, but after a short game I hit the left flipper and the game powered down again.

Ok after further diagnostics it is not just the left flipper that is causing temporary power loss. The machine is now losing power randomly without touching anything? Where to start, will the kahr daughter board resolve this issue, or is that just a bandaid for a bigger issue?

Already ordered, thanks guys!

Unfortunately I am the only repair man close to me. While I am waiting for the Kahr board I decided to take Red's head out and see what was going on in there.
Everything looks good, no loose connections, I can't see the centering flange that everyone talks about, not sure what might have happened to that? When I try to work the coils manually they seem super stiff. I watched a video on youtube of a woman manually moving the eyes, her coils seemed very easy to move. Does this mean the coils need replacing? Nothing seems bent and all in all everything looks pretty good.

Never mind on the centering flange, located where it is supposed to be and it is missing.

Thanks! All the parts I need to rebuild Red are on the way! As for the resetting issue, I decided to go in the backbox and reseat every connector, it did the trick, now the game is playing great without a single reset!

Hey guys, thanks for all the help so far. I got the Kahr board and even though I didn't need it, I plugged it in, everything has been working fine. Until tonight, when my son was playing I noticed the pop bumpers and the slingshots weren't firing, when just a few minutes earlier they were working fine for me. I went into tests and they all fire fine. I looked at all connections underneath play field, and also on top, checking all leaf switches. I couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. Is it odd that just the slings and bumpers would stop working and the rest of the game would play fine?

What is my next course of action?

All the fuses are good. Like I said, when I go into tests everything fires, also in ball search everything works.

Ok, so I did the switch test and they are not activating the coils? I can't see any loose solder connections or broken connections underneath the play field.

Thanks man, just sent him a pm!

Thanks, I have the manual, haven't found anything yet, I keep hoping I will find a loose cable or connector.

Yeah nothing in the column works, so next step is to check transistor. I have used a multi meter before but not to check transistors, I will see if I can figure it out.

I am having trouble checking transistors, with the board in place it is very difficult to get my leads on the contacts. Where in the manual will it say which transistor(s) are responsible for the pop bumpers and slings?

Ok found that thank you. Do I have to pull the board to check the transistors?

Ok, I'm on it!

Ok just checked the transistors that correspond with pop bumpers and slingshots, they are all reading fine. Where do you guys think I should look next?

Right around .569, is that right? I got around the same reading for all transistors that I checked.

I have checked everything under the PF a few times now, I will check one more time to make sure the diode leads at the switches aren't broken. I have followed all the wires and everything looks good, but I didn't look that close at the diodes. I will check first thing in the morning. Thanks!

Did you mean J107 connection? If so everything is fine there. All diodes and wires are good. When I turn on the game it says press enter for test report, I go into the tests and it says all the switches in column 6 aren't working. I have done a switch edge test and none of the switches for my problem area are working. I do know how to do continuity test, what should I test? The diodes? I do not have access to a ULN2803A chip in my city. Would it be ok to remove the same chip from my Addams family and see if it fixes my problem? Otherwise I will have to wait a few days to get the chip. What do you think?

Yup, my mistake.

Everything looks good at J207.

Yep, machine off, I am going to do a continuity test at J207, focused on pin 7.

I am having a hard time finding something tiny enough to test the connector, but I will find something. Is there only one U20 location? What tool do you use to pull the chip?

A small sewing needle should work to test the connector continuity right?

Ok I took the chip from Addams family and moved it to Road Show, and now everything works!

Theonlyest thank you so much!

A fellow Pinsider near me had a couple to spare! Everything is working great, except for now when I turn on the machine all the coils fire for a couple seconds, it seems like it might be stuck, and then the machine boots up as normal?

Also Ted's mouth is not working. Checked connections there, they look solid.

Gear on Ted's mouth was binding a bit, gave it a small adjustment and it seems to be working fine now.

Ok so I got a package in the mail today with my replacement ULN2803A (ordered a couple extra). So I took the Addams Family chip out put it back in Addams Family and played a couple games, works great! However, I put the new chip in Road Show and I am having all sorts of problems/glitchy stuff going on. Just to check I put the same chip in Addams Family and it started acting the same. What is going on?

Whoops, put the chip in upside down.

Upside down.

Red is easy to remove and fix up, Ted is more of a PITA, but still doesn't look that hard to me, just time consuming. I guess it depends on how much you have worked on machines in the past. Make sure the plastic ramps are in good shape, it is unlikely you will find those.

Hey everyone, I just finished changing out the GI to LED and now the whole left side (just the left side) is out. Other then that the game plays like usual. So I figure I must have broke a solder connection, or a loose wire finally fell off, but I can't find anything wrong. What is the best way to figure out what I messed up this time

Thank you, once again Pinside saves the day! F106 was the fuse that was blown.

If you have the parts for repair the heads can be fixed very quickly, especially if you have done them before.

I just received my shaker motor assembly arakissun from Bulgaria! I am going to install sometime this weekend. Mine was removed at some point, not sure which cable is supposed to hook up to the one end of the board? Did they remove the power cable for the shaker motor as well, i can't find it anywhere? Can someone tell me how I can get power to the shaker if the original cable has been removed?

In case that doesn't make a lot of sense, I am trying to find the cable that connects the shaker PDC board to the power driver board.

Ok here is where I believe the shaker was connected. Where can I get the cable that connects the PDC to the power driver board?

P1040434 (resized).JPG

And here is the other end that I need, am I going to have to build this myself?

Screen Shot 2017-11-18 at 9.27.24 AM (resized).png

Ok so I guess I am answering my own questions but that's how I work. Are these the two connectors that I need to build this cable:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-09111-00
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-09104-00

What size cable should I use?

Ok 18awg, but now I am thinking this is what I should use for the 6 position connector:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-06

I have done a bit of reading and although IDC isn't optimal it will work perfectly fine in this situation I think.

Thanks again, I will go with the IDC connector and use the proper punch tool/watch a video on punching IDC connectors

You might also want to check the Jaw motor is still working.

Don't use the list on Titan's site, it is missing a few, can't remember off the top of my head. Here is a screen shot I took of a list that looked pretty close to me. Can't remember where I took the shot from.

Screen Shot 2017-11-02 at 11.25.27 AM (resized).png

For GI stick with either cool or warm white depending on where you are putting them. Don't use colors for GI there is already enough color in the game, use color LEDS for under coloured inserts to make them pop more. When I received my game I changed all the GI this way and it made the game brighter and more attractive.

I am not sure if this will work for you but I use Testor's Dullcote matte finish. It creates a nice finish that is not too shiny and protects your work.

Here is my radio. Primed it black with Citadel primer spray paint, then hand painted the rest with acrylic paints, then sprayed 2 coats of Testors Dullcote matte finish.

20180213_210539 (resized).jpg

Really nice! Now time to paint that hideous red radio!

Probably one of the best things you will do for the game, other then the colour DMD.

Oh yeah, great job!

Hey guys, I went to play my RS after not having played it for a while, and when it turned on all the coils fired (all the flippers at the same time) and then the fuse at 112 solenoid secondary blew. I replaced with another 7A slow blow and it blew again. Popped the hood and had a look, everything looks fine, any ideas of where I should start looking? Thanks in advance.

I have had a similar issue before, I would recommend trying a different thumb drive, and make sure the Colour DMD file is the only thing on the drive.

I turned on my RS yesterday and noticed during Flying rocks that I wasn't being awarded extra ball when I hit that shot. I removed the glass and went into tests and the switch is working properly. I played a game with he glass off and both the extra ball and radio switches aren't giving the rewards, even though both the switches are working. The blast reward and Teds head shots are both working fine, any ideas where to start?

When I shoot extra ball from flying rocks it does not light extra ball at spinner and when I shoot radio it does not activate the radio riot mode. Both switches are working in tests.

I tested with ball in test mode and the switches are working perfectly fine, they are just not awarding the extra ball or radio riot. When the switches are activated (by the ball) there is a sound from the speakers that shows they were hit, but no award? I am guessing it is a board problem? To be honest this game has been a bit of a "lemon" and nearly everything that can go wrong has, but I really love it and have a blast playing. I just wish I could get it playing 100% just once before I die!

Interesting, those shots used to be lit, maybe I did change something in the menu, how do you lit the upper shots anyway?

Thanks so much! Now I know it isn't my game, it's just me!

That head looks wonky to me.