(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 4,082 posts
  • 463 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by PPS
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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#3125 1 year ago

Just got a Roadshow into my shop for repairs. Straight out of a crate from France. Yay.

I changed the power jumpers to USA style, swapped out the crusted battery board for a new one, looked over all the coils and fuses, and gave it a good shop vac. To my surprise, the machine boots. French. Haha. Changed the dip switches to USA and powered up again. Everything seems fine. Missing a mini post next to the Dozer, and Ted isnt registering dozer hits so I'll take a look at the eddy boards today.

Biggest annoyance Im having right now is the coin door buttons. The left black (escape) button isnt working. So I can get into tests but I can't back out without power cycling. Anyone have any tips to help get this button working again?

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#3127 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Take a picture underneath those buttons of the wires. One is likely broken or in wrong place if only one button isn’t working

From what I can tell here everything is wired as it should be.

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#3131 1 year ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Pinball life sells switches with bracket and new decal. Or at least they used to. I replaced one a while back.

I will try shorting the wires together and see if this is actually the switch malfunctioning.

#3134 1 year ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

Lamp matrix problem
Pages 2-44,45 of the manual. my lamps 41-48 are out Yellow/black wire seems to be the problem.
I changed the idc connector.
Is there any trick i can do to test the header pin and idc? Problem with the board?
Any help for a noob apprieciated.

Potentially a cracked header pin at the connector as well?

#3135 1 year ago
Quoted from cogito:

The contacts within the switch can be corroded as well. Luckily these switches are easily serviceable yourself. Desolder the switch from the wires, and carefully pry it open. Watch out for the tiny springs and metal pads that will pop out! Then clean out the switch, give the small pads a quick scuff, and reassemble.

Shorting the switch lugs worked. So I decided to drip some rubbing alcohol down inside the switch where the spring is and actuate the button over and over. This method cleaned something down inside without having to tear it apart. It isnt perfect but its working about 9/10 presses now.

1 week later
#3158 1 year ago

Thanks for the pictures of the red/ ted breakdown. I'm experiencing the same problem with both faces. Eyes closed all the time.

Also, I have already adjusted the eddy sensor boards in front of both faces and red's is already out of adjustment. Is this a constant battle to keep them in adjustment??

1 month later
#3222 1 year ago

After completely pulling Red's head out and cleaning the sleeves, plungers and linkages they will close their eyes but still wont open. For now I have opened their eyes manually and disabled the rest of the eye movement. Boy are these faces finicky. I GIVE UP

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#3225 1 year ago

When the vertical coil fires to close the eyelids the linkage gets stuck at the very bottom of the stroke. The horizontal coil fires correctly but the linkage is already stuck.

When manually pressing the assembly with my fingers gently it works properly. But if I simulate the coil pulling it down to the bottom it catches on something. It is not snagged on the wood or the horizontal linkage. Im not sure where its hanging up.

Maybe a stronger spring would do the trick?

#3229 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

Can you compare with Ted or they both have the problem?

Same problem.

#3230 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Too strong of a spring can cause binding as the vertical linkage opens the eyelids. After that coil fires, the horizontal coil moves forward as it is spring loaded to catch the eyelids to prevent them from closing. When the horizontal coil fires, it unlatches the vertical plunger which closes the eyelids. Make sure you have the correct springs on both vertical and horizontal
Either you have the wrong springs or you have the linkages or coils put on incorrectly. The horizontal coil fires to release the eyelids. The vertical coil fires to open the eyelids

Maybe I ought to order new springs and coil sleeves. Then ill know I have everything fresh. This game came out of a crate, so no idea when it last worked properly. Anyone have the part numbers handy?

I can dig out the manual if need be.

#3242 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

You can see how the eyes are supposed to work in this video
I bet you misplaced a spring. Also check your linkage is not broken and has its original shape https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8479

Thanks. All my springs are there. I think maybe they have weakened over time. Everything seems to work the same as in the video with one exception. When the lower coil fires to open the eyes it gets stuck on something. I'll try to get a video later.

#3266 1 year ago

If anyone has a spare flying rocks plastic, please message me. Mine is missing and someone just tossed a broken left sling plastic in there to cover the bulb.

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4 months later
#3459 1 year ago

My extra ball light in the spinner lane flashes very dim when it shouldn't be lit.

When I actually light it, it's very bright. Tried changing the LED bulb with no change.

Ideas?

#3461 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Are you using a non ghosting bulb?

No, I'm not. But all of the inserts have regular LEDs and they're not having issues. Just that one.

#3463 1 year ago

Good to know, my experience lies in a lot of older SS games which are either fine with LEDs or they all have flicker problems.

Thanks for the insight.

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