(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 4,082 posts
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  • Latest reply 12 days ago by PPS
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#2062 3 years ago

I found that the ball lock separator on my RS has broken (part# A-18818). Replacements aren't available from what I can see & Marcos is out of stock. Does anyone have a spare I could buy or does anyone 3D print these? Thanks!

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1 year later
#2874 2 years ago
Quoted from Nez02:

Anyone happen to have this right in-lane plastic laying around? I broke mine.
[quoted image]

You can buy both of the inlane plastics from PinballCenter here in Germany. €20.90 and they ship to the US.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/road-show/7272/lane-plastics-for-road-show?c=0

2 weeks later
#2926 2 years ago

Having a multi ball issue & hopefully you guys can help me out. For a while now sometimes when a ball is shot back into the lock (during the Ted sleeping phase) the game doesn't recognize the additional ball in the lock. It seems to specifically happen when I shoot a ball into the lock, it kicks it out, and I shoot it back in. Then it gets confused...I have to wait for the ball search to kick it out. But it is also an intermittent problem.

Then yesterday also during the Ted asleep mode, the ball kicked out of the lock and I immediately drained...but the game sat there. Again, I had to wait for ball search to kick out another ball from the ball lock.

I've already adjusted and tested all 3 lock switches in the ball lock, and I've cleaned & tested the optos in the trough. In switch test everything appears to work fine.

Complex issue. Maybe a dodgy switch in the lock? Should I just replace lockup switches #1 &2?

11 months later
#3521 1 year ago

Had a strange issue with Road Show I wanted to share. During a 4-hour party RS began to smoke and give off an acrid smell. I thought it must be a locked-on coil or blown transistor...but it ended up being the power supply for the DMD. The high voltage section was completely cooked. The solder joints for the 4.7k ohm resistor were cracked, and was causing additional resistance and heat.

Disassembled the area, replaced all 3 big transistors, cleaned and renewed the heat conducting paste to the heatsinks which was basically gone. Replaced all 5 zener diodes, and I changed the 5 watt resistor to a 10-watt which I mounted higher off the board.

Game runs fine now. I know a new board is available for about $150 but this repair cost only about $10 in parts and should last for a long time.

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