(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


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  • 4,082 posts
  • 463 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 days ago by PPS
  • Topic is favorited by 185 Pinsiders

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#2067 3 years ago

Hi all,
I'm looking to get a Road Show as my first pin, so I thought this would be the best place to ask some questions.

I'm aware of Fish wear, but does it affect gameplay at all?
Is it fixable (other than a whole new playfield).

Trying to educate myself before I make a mistake and pay over the odds for something I don't know about

1 month later
#2113 3 years ago

How come some of Red and Teds lower lip is painted to match the top and others aren't?

The one i'm getting is unpainted so wondering if it's something people add themselves and any idea of the colours?

1 month later
#2187 3 years ago

Ignore, see below

#2188 3 years ago

I figured out the problem but no idea how to fix it, Road Show friends please look at my post!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-lamp-screws-up-matrix-and-should-be-on-gi-but-how-#post-5807540
Basically the spotlight was on the normal laml matrix and the bridge out R is on the GI.
Should be the other way around but I have nk idea how to swap them and if I'll just have the same matrix issues but with the spot working on gi.

Edit, swapped the connectors under playfield... I'm such a newbie i didn't realise they were there. I guess the solution seems simple in hindsight

#2191 3 years ago

Ok so my official entering into the club as I've fixed the issues!

So pleased to finally have Ted in my life!

A question, does anyone else's bulldozer blade go up wonky? It's as if the right side gets up a bit before the left.

Also the plastic I've put on the keyring, is it official and where does it go?
It was flat in front of Red hiding the spotlight which was in the wrong location. Upon moving the spotlight i didn't know what to do with it.

20200821_185104 (resized).jpg20200821_185104 (resized).jpg20200821_185114 (resized).jpg20200821_185114 (resized).jpg
#2195 3 years ago
Quoted from BuddyandBean:

My dozer blade did the same thing. I cleaned the opto and it fixed it but I’d like to get one of the new dozer blade opto’s to have as a backup but they seem to be sold out everywhere.

Could you explain? I noticed the motor for it only attaches on one side so wondered if that was why.

#2197 3 years ago
Quoted from BuddyandBean:

Try taking the opto board out. Run a qtip in between the sensors to clean it and make sure the pins have good connections. Mine was filthy and the shaker motor in this game is so strong that I think it wiggles a lot of connections loose over time. Not sure if my problem was the connections or the dirt but it works perfectly now that I cleaned it and reconnected it.
[quoted image]

Thanks! I'll take a look next time I've got the playfield up, which could be today or tomorrow as I've got tilt bobs coming (rs came without one!)

I'm still confused as to how that would mean the right side of the blade goes up before the left considering its only one motor. But I'm a newbie and learning by the day!

#2199 3 years ago

I'll take a look when possible. It seems when I think I've got it set up nice I notice something else I'd like to tweak

I found this at the bottom of the cab, is this anything to worry about? I couldn't see where it might have came from!

Also i get balls stuck under the lower mini left flipper. It has two posts with individual rubbers. I understand it should be one rubber spanning both, any idea what size rubber?
I ordered a replacement rubber set so hoping there's one in it.

20200823_191848 (resized).jpg20200823_191848 (resized).jpg
#2201 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

that's an OP amp maybe off of one of your under playfield boards...or someone just dropped it sometime in the past, I would think if you were missing it you would see something not working right, not sure about the ball getting stuck...at wrk now I'll look at it later

Thanks so much. Only had it half a week and didn't notice the chip in the cab till yesterday, if anyone knows where they're used I could take a look.

#2203 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

It looks pretty scorched on the one side, regardless, it's safe to assume that some slack operator/tech replaced it, and used the lower cab as a trash can... Typical.

I think that's just the shadow and lighting in the photo. It looks fine IRL.
The two previous owners were HUO, don't know about before that so it's odd it wasn't removed before... I'm hoping it was already there!

#2205 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainCaverne:

Just checked, you need 2 * 3/4" and you'll be fine.

Wonderful, thanks for your help.

What I've found within a week of owning pinball is there's always something, I've had to email and change orders on websites a few times when I've realised I need something else!

#2206 3 years ago

A temporary solution using a spare from Black Rose, this must be a 3/4? It's quite loose even though the post is nearly at the easiest setting.

Also this plastic was in front of Red hiding her spotlight, in the wrong place.

Is this the correct location? It looks odd there being the wrong way round

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#2209 3 years ago

Cheers all, much better now!

How steep do people have their RS? Mines just above 6.5 and it can feel a little floaty at times but not sure if that's just how RS plays.

My Black Rose is fast and hard compared to RS

Also i have a white dot on the translite, did i damage it? Is there anything I can do about that?

20200826_125652 (resized).jpg20200826_125652 (resized).jpg
#2212 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

That could be a credit dot, which is the machine's way of letting you know that it detected an error. When you go into the menu, does it display an error message?

Sorry, i mean light comes brighter than the rest through on the translite. Like I've damaged the translite/backglass

#2239 3 years ago

A question for all RS owners,

When the ball is ejected from bobs bunker it's supposed to hit the 'magic stand-up' right?

Mine occasionally doesn't and to combat this I have been lowering the back left leg to get the sweet spot where it hits it each time.

But it seems that means the game isn't level, does it matter? It seems to play well once I've got that dialed in.

Unless there's a way of adjusting ball guides out of the bunker? I couldn't see, it looks tricky to get to.

#2244 3 years ago

The manual states a power spring white for the left (flying rocks) shooter rod. I got a new one but it doesn't make it past the first skill shot hole.

Is the manual incorrect or are there different white springs?
Update: I realised the springs are the other way round, green on flying rocks and white on the main shooter. Strange because I was enjoying the green on the main shooter, you can get it into Teds mouth with a full plunge and i thought you were supposed to be able to do that?

Also, how do people save a ball trapped under the lower flipper? I could with a hard nudge until i switched to silicon rubbers

#2246 3 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

I have only done it a couple of times. I believe it is actually mentioned in the manual?

It mentions how to save a trapped ball? I can't believe that, but I'll take a look!

3 weeks later
#2279 3 years ago

I know this is a general question..

On two occasions my right flipper has stuck up. Just touching it with my finger causes it to drop.
What could cause this?
Anything i should check?

1 week later
#2284 3 years ago

Sometimes the ball fires out of Start City and hits the bottom of the slingshot and goes SDTM. Is there anything I can adjust to ensure it always delivers it to the flipper?

1 week later
#2295 3 years ago

I've got a Pin2dmd for mine also. The colour file isn't finished, everything is coloured it can just be a bit janky when transitioning between frames

3 months later
#2398 3 years ago

I noticed my RS has two GI leds in different colours. The rest I believe is comet sunlight but one pictured has a red (behind upper flipper) and the other is orange (in the U Turn area) .

I guess who LEDed this before me was either being lazy or inventive?

Assuming all GI should be white?

Hey MonkeyboyPaul, was done after you had it I assume? (she's being well cared for btw)
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1 week later
#2403 3 years ago

Is there supposed to be a rubber on this post?

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#2406 3 years ago

Thanks guys...

Another thing, I had my RS slightly unlevel on the rear legs to make sure the ball always hit the 'magic standup' on ejecting from the bunker. But today I noticed how wonky the backbox looked so I leveled the pin...
Now it doesn't hit the standup sometimes and even goes straight down the middle on the rare occasion.

Surely the pin shouldn't have to be uneven on the rear legs... is there a ball guide or anything else I could try?

#2408 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Maybe try adjusting the kickout solenoid slightly to "aim" the ball differently and to the left

Had a look and couldn't see a way to adjust that

#2410 3 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Check the blue rubber stop inside the top of the mech is present and in good condition. You might need to remove the mech to check. It is the same as the rubber at the top of the “rocks” habitrail by Teds head. The VUK kicks the ball up that metal tube, hitting that stop and dropping down to the play field. You can see the end of the rubber in the image above the spinner switch.
[quoted image]

Damn I thought i'd never seen that before, but upon checking it's there

20210203_212353 (resized).jpg20210203_212353 (resized).jpg

#2411 3 years ago

I ended up just leveling it so it's as level as can be while still consistently hitting the stand up back to where I began really!

Although in doing this I did take out the bobs bunker mech and give things a clean up!

I'm thinking of changing my rubbers from Pinball Center silicone (?) to Perfect play. Has anyone got a rubber ring list?
The lists I found don't appear consistent and use 3/8"OD rubbers but apparently perfect play don't do them anymore as no-one bought them?
Can they be substituted by 7/16"?

#2427 3 years ago

How do people affix third party toppers? Do you have to damage the backbox?

3 weeks later
#2468 3 years ago

Hey guys,
The 'Hit Ted' eddy board/switch needs adjusting on mine. No problem, do it enough with the 'Hit Dozer'.
But what is the purpose of hitting ted? I can't think of any situation where that sensor is used. Except for maybe if a ball gets trapped between Teds mouth and the dozer blade?

Quoted from dig65:

Would any kind RS owner be willing to run a quick Switch Edge (T1) test for me and report back what they see? You would have to take the glass off to manually throw balls into the lock lane.
What I’m specifically wondering is if we should see the Lock Kickout switch (54) at least flicker on the T1 test when balls are sent into the lock lane. I posted this previously about what I observe when doing the test:
Then ran the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity
I’m wondering if I should also be seeing the Lock Kickout switch flicker when the balls go into the trough?
Trying to see if that switch is really bad with just simple testing before someone helps me troubleshoot further. This switch seems to be infamous in this thread for causing the kind of problem I’m having, and some other similar problems. Probably going to replace it, but it’s no fun to access that switch.

If I adjust my eddy sensor tomorrow I'll try this while the glass is off also.

#2470 3 years ago

I had a test report saying 'Hit Ted' switch isn't working.

I adjusted the eddy board and the light comes on when the ball is over it.
I swapped the eddy board with the 'hit bulldozer' eddy board and the board seems fine.

What do I check next? No other switches are showing errors.

Edit: solved... Right in front of my eyes the White-grey wire had came out of the connector.

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1 month later
#2544 2 years ago

My RS has comet leds in, but whoever did it made a few strange choices (I found some red and orange in GI so swapped them for the sunlights elsewhere).

I put the red under the Extra ball insert next to the lock insert.

The lock and bobs bunker inserts don't feel bright compared to the white and red inserts they're next to.
What colour and type of led would be better suited for those?i tried orange but it didn't look any better

2 weeks later
#2561 2 years ago

My Road Show has NVRAM but I'd like to put batteries in so it remembers be time.

I'm not familiar with the board and how NVRAM works, could I still install batteries without having to remove the NVRAM?

I can't see anywhere that I would attach a battery holder, except the connector in the picture.
Could I have some advice please?

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#2563 2 years ago
Quoted from THJM:

The battery board is installed at the bottom of the cpu board, see pic. A cable connects the battery board to the cpu board where you noted. I have nvram as well but left the battery board in just in case.[quoted image]

I have no battery board or connector cable. I guess previous owner got rid.
Seems near impossible to find a replacement and making my own is expensive, cheap parts with crazy shipping

#2564 2 years ago

Another Q

"Today's Highest scores"
Is this the same on everyone's pin?
Mine don't appear to change with the backup high scores unless I'm missing a setting?

It's always
1, 400,000,000
2, 350,000,000
3, 300,000,000
4, 250,000,000

Would appreciate if someone could confirm

#2566 2 years ago
Quoted from THJM:

That may have something to do with the NVRAM. With batteries, the "Today's Highest Score" will reset every 24 hours. But with NVRAM when the machine is off time does not run, so achieving 24 hours can take a long time (i.e., it's 24 hours of the machine actually being on). Having typed all this I'm not sure it answers your question...

Yup, and that's the issue.
But I've tracked down the original battery board for this RS, so I'm pleased!
I believe Lithium batteries will be safe and on the WPC-S they're mounted off the board anyway!

#2567 2 years ago

What kind of flasher LED do folks have under the 'Blast Zone' insert?

#2569 2 years ago
Quoted from Santis:

Blue flexible.

Flexible flashers? Where do you get those?
Or do you mean just the normal lamp part?

I wasn't sure whether to put a bayonet tower led flasher in there or a SMD flasher.

The normal blast zone lamp and the flasher seem to block each other slightly on mine meaning the blast zone insert never looks fully lit.
Ocd I know.

#2572 2 years ago

I saw another Road Show at a club, and on the dmd it had an advert for the next game (I think it was Jackbot?) mine doesn't show this at all...
Is that a different rom?
Mine is L-6

Quoted from Santis:

Is in the US But you can look somewhere near you.

Found some similar by a different manufacturer, thanks!

1 month later
#2616 2 years ago

On plunge sometimes my ball gets stuck just before the skill shot hole. There's a post there and I have a rubber on it.

Any ideas? Should it be a fatter post rubber?
I'm not sure if mine is a 7/16"OD or a 3/7"OD

#2618 2 years ago
Quoted from DCP:

Got our Road Show playing well after it had been sitting for awhile. Repinning a bunch of connectors fixed most of the problems, but Ted's dozer blade was not moving up and down parallel to the playfield (it always sagged on the left side).
I've read previous discussions about this, but I haven't seen anyone mention a bent bracket on Ted's frame as a cause.
A previous owner had bent the mounting tabs on Ted's frame so he could remove Ted from above. They didn't bend them back exactly flat, and Ted leans just a little bit forward. This is just enough to bind the dozer blade and make it not work correctly.
I'm going to pull Ted out completely so I can carefully bend and flatten those tabs so he sits square to the playfield again.
Just a small change in Ted's angle is enough to bind up the dozer blade.
Ted's frame could possibly be redesigned so the mounting brackets came off of the frame - then he could be removed from the top with the dozer still attached. The hacker who bent mine had the right idea, just the wrong execution.
[quoted image]

Mine has always sagged a little bit. Was yours like this or worse?
Someone told me the blades all do this but I'm wondering if they were wrong?

1 week later
#2627 2 years ago

Has anyone lit the Start City Scoop?
If so how did you?

An led strip under the pf? Or a lamp bracket?

2 months later
#2687 2 years ago

My left ramp diverter was hitting the ramp plastic so much that part of the plastic has broken. I tried adjusting it multiple times in the past but there seemed to be no way of stopping it from happening.

Any ideas?

1 month later
#2738 2 years ago

If i turn ball save timer off, i still get a ball save but the shoot again light doesn't flash.

Is this normal behaviour? I'd have thought it would stop ball save altogether

1 week later
#2747 2 years ago

Since owning my Road Show I've noticed other Road Shows look different but couldn't put my finger on it.
Till now,

My Red and Ted faces are shiny.... Whereas it seems most are matte. I wonder why they differ?
What were they like originally? Maybe mine were repainted.

Does anywhere sell replacement faces for both Red and Ted? I'm curious how they look.

#2749 2 years ago
Quoted from rygar:

I own 3 Road Shows and additional set of heads from a parted out game (not shown on the photo). Out of those one set is glossy (bottom of photo) and other ones are matte. All are unpainted original ones. Looks like they were out of matte clear on the shiny sets.
[quoted image]

That's fascinating, thanks for sharing!
I guess matte was as they intended then. I might pick up spare face plates if they're available anywhere.

#2754 2 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Matte is the right one. If yours is shiny, use a 3M scotch brite pad, and you will see a nice matte surface quickly.

Won't that scratch them?

#2762 2 years ago

I set my replays to auto a few weeks ago but it's kept the score at my previous replay score of 350mil.

As it says it recalculates it every 50 games I set it to coin play and added 50 credits to see if it changes, maybe it doesn't work in freeplay?

Can anyone confirm auto replay score works for them?
I'm running the soren rom.

2 weeks later
#2796 2 years ago
Quoted from Santis:

PPS. you should do the Rudy Ted and Red faces and jaws. So is a color matching.

Yes please I'd love new faces and mouths

#2815 2 years ago
Quoted from bush3262:

I’ve had my RS over 4 years and have played it probably thousands of times over that timeframe. However it was only a few days ago that I achieved what for me was the ultimate supreme accomplishment…knocking down all the tollbooths in the Chicago mode. Woohoo! Does anyone else find that task to be next to impossible?

Always that one last shot and you're on the wrong flipper

My recent upgrade on the coindoor gift from the girlfriend as I'm obsessed with RS

20211229_133913 (resized).jpg20211229_133913 (resized).jpg
#2821 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Was adding LED rings to my pop-bumpers and now they no longer work.
At least the switch part. The solenoid (upper part) is still ok.
Switches 61- to 65 are reporting issues in test.
In switch edges they don't react when touched.
These switches are the 3 pop bumpers and the slingshots (however these still work in game)
All are on a green/Blue cable which is still well soldered on all 5 devices.
This cable is going to J207-6 on the MPU board, plug is ok and cable well connected.
Fuses seems to be ok as well.
suggestions ?

You might have blown a chip that acts as a fuse for the switch matrix. I had this happen on my black rose...a lot. But that's wpc-89 so I'm not sure if it will be the same location or chip. on wpc-89 its U20 and on my game it's socketted so I could swap it out easily.

All it takes is an exposed wire shorting out which is easy in the pops and would make sense considering you changed the LEDs on them .

When it happened to me I'd get lots of switch activations for one Switch. The matrix goes wild... So it might not be the same issue for you but worth a look.

#2845 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

It was indeed U20 ULN2803 which was RIP ! My local store had them on stock so I bought a couple and now back on the road...

Great to hear!
Be sure you know why it blew because it could easily happen again. I got through loads of those chips until my friend found what was shorting it out under the playfield. It was odd because it could be fine for days before blowing.

2 weeks later
#2898 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Red is pretty much rebuilt. I noticed the centering bar isn’t doing much centering when she looks one way. Is it just worn out and in need of replacement? Can I take it out and try to flatten it?
[quoted image]

It could be the crank that's worn. I'd check that.
Pretty sure the bar is supposed to be bent.

1 year later
#3702 9 months ago

Hey guys,

Got a road show at a location I help at. It's had a fault for months now.
When you lock two balls Ted's dozer blade doesn't lift up, so you get stuck and can't start multiball.
In test the the blade goes up and down and the optos register as they should but in game it's a different matter

I've got a Road Show at home, so I'm quite familiar with it but this issue is really confusing.
I've brought my dozer opto board in to try as I know mine works but we had the same issue.

If I fiddle with the motor board or the motor sometimes it'll work, but not for long. In game if you force multiball to start you can see the blade try to move. But with multiball start when two balls are locked you can't see it trying at all.

Has anyone got any ideas?

#3706 9 months ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

Mine does this "randomly" sometimes as well. Not at all lately. I've never looked at the lock switches. Next time mine starts acting up I'll look there as another pinsider noted.

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

A longshot but have you verified the two switches in the ball lock assembly register properly? If the game doesn't recognize locked balls then multiball shouldn't start either.

The thing is it goes into the multiball start state, just doesn't lift the blade. So you're stuck and can't do anything else except reset the game .

1 week later
#3756 8 months ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Are you using a color DMD by any chance? Mine exhibited odd issues like this due to the current draw of the DMD.

You got me excited there, then I looked up my videos of it and saw it's got an original dmd

Quoted from Jmckune:

So Ted goes to sleep but dozer blade doesn’t raise?

Yeah, but it works sometimes. I've tried fiddling with the mech and boards while in game and got it to move, then it works for the next game. It's almost like it gets stuck but obviously it doesn't because it works in test.

I'm going there tomorrow so I might take the power board for the dozer motor out of my road show and try it in the dodgy one.

It felt like sometimes when I fiddled with that I'd get movement.

#3762 8 months ago

Tried my motor power board on the roadshow at the location I help at. No difference.

I tried unplugging the dmd, although original and not colordmd I was trying anything. Sometimes the dozer blade worked, other times it didn't.

I'm at a loss now. What would cause the dozer blade to work intermittently in game but 100% ok in test but not in game.
The only time it always works in game is during a ball search or if a ball is trapped between the blade and Ted's mouth. The blade will always go up to release a trapped ball.

#3768 8 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

does anyone else with soren's v7 ROM get this sound error on start-up?[quoted image]

Not that I've noticed

5 months later
#4023 3 months ago

Does anyone's Road Show have flipper alignment holes? Mine doesn't and looking at pics I've not seen one with them.

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