(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


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  • 4,081 posts
  • 463 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 hours ago by SimplePin
  • Topic is favorited by 185 Pinsiders

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#284 9 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Best I can do right now.
» YouTube video

Looks good.. Though Red fell asleep for a short time there..

2 months later
#389 8 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

My first pin, picked up yesterday, rescued from a small amusement park. They had it on Ebay for a bit, nobody bid, so I sent a lowball offer out of the blue, and the accepted. It needs a good cleaning, but the playfield is in great shape, plastic dirty and a bit discolored but intact.
Red doesn't blink, Ted has a total death stare going on, and both of their jaws are sloppy. Rubbers are turning to dust and has a few burnt bulbs. Already ordered some parts to fix most of these issues.

Congrats! I know we will expect pictures!

(Sorry, I can't help with the dozer blade..)

8 months later
#499 8 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Should you always buy Souvenir's?

I always do - though some don't really get you anything in the end.

#503 8 years ago

Off-topic of radio colors..

Does anyone know if any ROM revision used to have some kinda bonus for completing the wheel?

2 months later
#536 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

At what point in the game does Red fall asleep?
Reason I am asking is that somewhere in the board something is broken, and I've gotten too lazy to fix. I swapped the cables and Red works just fine as Ted, so I know it is on the board somewhere. Tested the transistor and the pre drive transistor, and both checked out. I just cannot recall her falling asleep, so if she doesn't....well f it I am not gonna fix it!

I don't think *Red* ever falls asleep.
*Ted* falls asleep to light multiball..

4 months later
#625 7 years ago
Quoted from TaradinoC:

Do I just need to widen the outlane to stop this from happening, or is something up with the posts?

Wrong rubber, I believe. A rubber needs to go around the two posts.

#628 7 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

Is a proto type with red boards worth more money?

Some collectors couldn't care less. Some could. Unlike TZ, there's anot a lot of difference - I believe the only major playfield art change was changing 'Mardi Gras' to 'New Orleans'.

4 months later
#774 7 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

I was recording on twitch when I hit super payday, and the dozer moves, but ted's mouth stays closed unless he is screaming.
» YouTube video

I'm sorry, but RS has one of the BEST wizard modes, just for comedy. The screaming always, always cracks me up.

3 months later
#892 6 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Im not sure if you're really uber-sensitive, but it sure sounds like you are! I'm not a millennial, so I sometimes tend to give people the benefit of the doubt and have higher expectations of people then I should.

FTR, I read your post as a little dickish as well, and I'm far from a 'millennial'. Not even sure what that has to do with anything, but... there you have it.
Noone knows everything.

6 months later
#1089 6 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Ok after further diagnostics it is not just the left flipper that is causing temporary power loss. The machine is now losing power randomly without touching anything? Where to start, will the kahr daughter board resolve this issue, or is that just a bandaid for a bigger issue?

It technically IS a bandaid, but, it a really good one. So, I would get it, and then if it DOES fix your issues, know that your power driver board may need to be worked on.

1 month later
#1171 6 years ago

Do NOT use IDC. They are a pain in a$$, and when the connection starts to fail, intermittently, is will drive you bonkers.

#1176 6 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Anyone who discourages using an IDC connector, is someone who isn't able to properly punch them down IMHO.

No. Anyone who doesn't recommend them hasn't been a real tech on games out in the field, where vibration and jarring loosens them over time, leaving you with issues that takes a long time ti diagnose because those connections - from factory - loosen and become intermittent.

Do it one with a Molex or TE Con plug, and if something starts to fail, you can rule out the connector, and look elsewhere.

#1178 6 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Hmm, interesting... I've been a Williams factory trained and certified pinball tech since 1991,

Whohoo, congrats!
Go with Molex, and you don't have to continue re-punching them down at every visit. Do it once, and be done with it.

2 months later
#1259 6 years ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

According to the manual, the bulb on the radio (555) and the 44 bulb under the playfield where the word radio is are connected together and are triggered by lamp matrix 43. Row 3 column 4 in the lamp matrix.

He's meaning the flasher, to the right of the shooter lane there. I don't have a copy of the manual to look it up.

1 month later
#1335 6 years ago
Quoted from nikpinball:

Anyone else's roadshow have a red board in the middle? When I looked at ipdb all the boards are green but mine appears to be different.

You likely have an early sample game. Prototype machines had all red lamp boards. Since you have a mix of boards (green and red), the red board was likely left over from a batch they made for prototype machines.

#1338 6 years ago

Hey guys -
Is your U9 populated on the sound board (DCS)?

3 weeks later
#1390 6 years ago
Quoted from Carbonellie:

Does anyone know what a new Road Show cost in 1993? Do not shoot me if I ask a stupid question, but is there a price list of the pinballs when new costs?

Prices depended on your relationship with the distributor. Larger customers got lower prices than smaller customers. The company I worked for bought a couple new WPC-89 games for $3500 - $4000 in that era. We were a larger customer, though.

#1401 6 years ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

Would be neat to see the original list price in comparison to the current value.

Quoted from lurch:

Someone posted a distributors price sheet from the mid-90s on here about two years ago. I wish I could find that post.... I'm searching....

I wasn't involved in the pricing side of things - I just told my boss what to get. Had I know that.. over twenty years later I'd be wondering about this, I woulda asked to keep a copy of everything. D'oh.

2 weeks later
#1415 5 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

Unfortunately there are no really good apron decals available. Everyone I saw is too blurred and low res could compared to the real one. I think I'll scan mine so that people could ask me for...

These aprons I would love to see get remade.

10 months later
#1583 5 years ago
Quoted from razoraustralia:

Is the aim of that extra hole there for and additional post to support the covering plastic above. The plastic just sort of floats out in mid air, it vibrates pretty good when hit by a random ball.

Honestly, it was likely there to stop a ball from rolling PAST the skillshot, but not making it into the bumpers, from rolling back into the skill shot, instead ending up down at the inlanes. From the position of it, it looks like it's sticking far enough out to where a ball would hit it.

3 weeks later
#1617 5 years ago
Quoted from soren:

Games without auto plunger cannot have ball saver in multiball

Beg to differ.
BK2K comes to mind, as does WCS.

#1637 5 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Soren, any chance the time out when waiting to start a new ball could be taken out or made an option. Really annoying if you need to do something, come back and the game is over.

Are you meaing when *buying* an extra ball?

9 months later
#1896 4 years ago

AFAIK, Road Show never came with a clear protector on top. That looks like it was added onto by a previous owner..

#1898 4 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Mine came with that protector. I don’t have that issue.

Ah, good to know! I stand corrected!

#1904 4 years ago
Quoted from rygar:

Early production machines had that protector. I have a stash of parts from parted out machine that came with preliminary manual. It had a playfield woth factory hole for post between the flippers. The back of Red's head also has a 3d structure for hair. I ll post some comparison pictures of that feature.

Ah yeah, I would love to see that. And thanks for the info - the RS I had (which is now under loving care of a friend) was a normal production machine, which would be why I never saw that.

#1911 4 years ago
Quoted from Piso:

Does this mean that my road show is the 524th produced?

No, that's the Model Number of the game, minus country options. (50024). WMS back in the 90's didn't use serial numbers for serial numbers. (Hah, that makes perfect sense.)

2 months later
#2000 4 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

At first glance i find it increases the creepiness factor by 12!!!

Hate to say it, but I agree completely. That's some funhouse stuff right there.

1 month later
#2060 3 years ago
Quoted from Piso:

Thank you. Only two more questions.
What are the difference in the LX export ROMs?
I have seen a video of a Road Show with LX-4 ROM that, after a bridge out on the left ramp, you get a bank shot at TED closed mouth with the bulldozer up. Never occured to me on my L-6.
Here the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/khkrzerzi3q0hu7/20-05-04-13-18-29_01.mp4?dl=0

"X" versions were for export from the US. Usually adjustments settings, pricing-specific changes, and small game-play changes (rare, but did occur) to make the game operate under needed laws.

Later, room on the ROMs was increased (one way or another) and there was no longer a need for seperate US/Export revisions, so it was all one ROM (L-x). (There IS at least one exemption to this, Safe Cracker, but..)

2 weeks later
#2069 3 years ago

Repro platforms are due out this year some time.

So if the cosmetic fish worries you.. Hang in there.

1 week later
#2085 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

1) Game won't start after hitting start button. I powered it up today and everything is fine, but when I push the start button it won't start a game and just stays in attract mode. I checked the start button switch and wiring and it looks good and the start button works in switch edge test.

Do you have credits on the game, or is the game in Free Play?

#2091 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

The game is on Free Play.

Okay, just figured I would check, since:

Quoted from per3per3:

The entire 1st column of the switch matrix is out.

Quoted from per3per3:

the start button works in switch edge test.

These two statements can not both be true.

1 month later
#2142 3 years ago

Honestly, I believe the manual is wrong.
The game ROM just fires BOTH Middle and Upper Left when it sees the 'Upper Left' flipper opto open.

3 months later
#2297 3 years ago

*Preliminary*. Not prototype. More like a 'Beta' than an 'Alpha'.

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

According to ipdb.org P3 is U2 (only?) but my sound board have U2-U8 currently occupied with ROM chips. If I get L1 I do have to buy/change all U2-U8 right?

No. It means that U3-U8 were unchanged since the release before that, so they do not have to be changed with U2. Usually, the U3-U8 are the binary data for the sounds, and THOSE didn't change - U2 is the code to call and volumne and such, and that was the only thing changed. So, just change U3.

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Lastly, the security chip is only coupled with the game ROM yes? So I can change sound ROMs without doing anything about the security chip?

Correct, that is why the security chip is on the MPU, and not the sound board. Also, the security chip is NOT tied to the VERSION of game ROM. Just the game itself. You will never have to change the security chip (unless yours goes bad.)

2 weeks later
#2309 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

So basically we have to get the image of the official unpatched L-6 ROM (from ipdb.org?) , apply this patch to it and then write it to a ROM chip, then install in game. Any step I missed?
I have no idea what programs to use to apply the patch so if someone could send me a link to an already patched/fixed L-6 bin ready for writing that would be great.

It looks like the link provided is the pre-patched ROM. So, you just need a burner and an EPROM. Or, there are a handful of folks online that provide a burning service.

1 month later
#2360 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Anyone following this thread?...haven't seen any mention of it here, unless It was a while back...https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-teds-road-show-repro-playfield-list-starting

His last update stated that printing should start soon.

2 months later
#2484 3 years ago

Someone put resistors in there to 'simulate' a load. There are no flashers in Ted head, AFAIK, so for some reason they.. are simulating a load of a coil? That's.. f*ckin' strange.

#2499 3 years ago

Hey all -
Kruzman has an NOS Road Show playfield available. It's an earlier print, as it has the hole between the flipper for a post.
I know there are repros coming - likely later this summer, but figured if anyone was in a hurry.

https://pinballplayfieldskruzman.com/2021/03/18/road-show-williams-nos-1300/

2 months later
#2585 2 years ago

Was that playfield sprayed by salt-water? Holy heck!

#2589 2 years ago
Quoted from jazc4:

I hope to clean up, restore, and clear coat the playfield. Its a big undertaking.

A repro field is coming out in the next year or so, from a good quality shop. (I've seen the artwork, it's good.) May be worth your time to wait and work on de-rusting everything else..

4 weeks later
#2622 2 years ago

Looks like an eyeball linkage?

1 month later
#2650 2 years ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Question, when does red opens her mouth in a game ?
I did a 1,142,000,000 score the other day and red never opened her mouth. Lighted a bunch of cities.

When she talks?

Or are you meaning for a shot at the Jackpot?

1 year later
#3613 11 months ago
Quoted from pudealee:

As soon as Bob's comes up I hit the buttons just out of habit (without looking to see if uranium is there).

Don't you have to hit the both buttons three times? Or is it just once?

1 week later
#3621 11 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Thank you thought middle was green

It SHOULD BE_ listed in the manual.

1 month later
#3653 10 months ago

For those of you that may be interested - Ron has a NOS playfield available -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kruzman-monthly-playfield-thread/page/64#post-7605636

1 month later
#3701 8 months ago
Quoted from germsinc:

On my machine the ball gets stopped up by Ted's head in the Flying Rocks plunge. I have it pretty level and about 7 degrees steep, what can I adjust to not have to shake the ball loose every time?

It's been a loong while since I've had a game with this issue, but if I recall - the part of the ramp that has the blue rubber at the end there, needs to be gently/slightly bent inward to the wire form (away from Ted's head) so that there's not a dead spot there.

Hard plunging over and over caused that to bend outwards (towards Ted's head) in my other location games and causes dead spots for the balls to get stuck in.

Like I said, tho, it's been a couple decades since I had to deal with this; so I may be misremembering.

3 months later
#3880 4 months ago

If you have Bridge Out lit, and shoot it, it'll be taken around the back to the Upper Left ( .. wait.. Middle Left? Lower Upper Left? The middle one, whichever name that one has) flipper. If Bridge Out isn't lit(*) it'll get taken back to the right flipper.
(*) - I believe a couple other things may cause it to go around - certain modes, or Falling Rocks lit, etc.)

1 month later
#3999 82 days ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Thanks everyone for the color codes! I was thinking power coating everything at my local shop not a spray. I have painted lockdown bars in the past and they do not seem as durable over the long haul. All my power coating guy needs is a code to order the blue powder.

If you can't find it, or no-one here has a reference to it - go to Prismatic Powders, and go through their blues - you can order swatches (for free) and then compare them to find one that matches the best.

2 weeks later
#4029 65 days ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Closing the loop on this in case anyone else will want to have your legs and side rails powder coated vs. rattle can/spray method.
Ended up going with RAL 5015 blue. It’s not 100% perfect but I like it a smidge more than stock…..[quoted image][quoted image]

Hell, being held up next to the leg on the machine, I can't really see a difference. IMHO, that's a fantastic match!

1 week later
#4041 52 days ago

Yes, they are both green-black, they should terminate together.

1 month later
#4057 20 days ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

The lock up pin in the upkicker behind the spinner does not retract. In the solenoid test, the lock up pin is in the extended position, when I *think* it should be in the retracted position (right?). I swapped the wires on the coil to see if they were on there incorrectly-- no change in status.

First - never switch wires like that - if the coil WAS active, you would have blown a fuse - since those coils should have diodes on them. Yours does not look like it does.

The way you have it pictured is how it's supposed to look without power applied to the coil. In solenoid test, when that number is up, the coil should 'fire', drawing that plunger (and plastic pin attached) in quickly, then pop back out. If it's not doing this, then your coil is either not getting any power (+50v), or the driver line at the coil isn't getting grounded when the transistor is powered on the power driver board.

Keep in mind, I believe Road Show had an interlock switch on the coin door - when the coin door is open, +50v coil power is deactivated. So make sure you perform the test with the door closed, or the switch activated.

If it's still no good, do standard coil troubleshooting techniques here. Check that you're getting 50v. If you aren't, trace the wire and find the break. Check that when the coil test fires that coil, the driver line is brought to ground. If it's not, trace the wire back to the power driver board.

#4059 20 days ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

I could be wrong, but I believe that it would simply push instead of pull.

Coils can never_ push - they always draw inward. If the coil had a diode, and you reversed the wires, it would short the +50 to ground and blow your fuse.

Quoted from drsfmd:

I have already pulled the board to send to my repair guy, so I can't test it again at the moment).

Oh, then there's nothing you can really do until you get the board back.

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