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Just made it to Super Pay Day for the first time (which lasted exactly ten seconds because I was so overwhelmed by all the lights 
) but still managed a new personal high score of 2.61 million 
(Topic ID: 83745)
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Road Show
Williams, 1994
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3 months later
I had the same problem on my RS and it worked fine in Dozer test, too. In game mode the timing seems to be more critical or at least different from test mode.
My cure was to thoroughly clean the optos with a Q-tip and alcohol. Since then the dozer works like a charm.
1 month later
you turn the poti until the LED comes on and then slowly back until it goes off again
if you have to adjust it time and again I´d recommend the AutoEddy board from Pinbits. I have that in my RS and since then it works like a charm.
1 month later
2 months later
11 months later
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Ok, I tried the "moving the counterweights" idea... Not possible, the set screws are fixed to a divot in the shaft. So, I completely removed the weight on one side. It is just a TAD less violent, but still nuts!
Any other mods that anyone knows of to tame this shaker motor??
Have you checked if it´s really 20 volts coming from the Power Driver Board (J107-6)?
7 months later
Quoted from jcar302:On another note, the bunker lock is really inconsistent. Seems I mess with the lower of the two (lower when the playfield is up), it works for a few plays, then goes back to being inconsistent, any suggestions.
The switches in the bunker can be a pain in the ass and kinda hard to diagnose. I had similar problems with them being inconsistent. Fortunately it´s very easy to remove the whole assembly from the underside of the pf. Just disconnect two connectors and remove the 4 screws which hold the assembly to the pf. You have to move the diverter assembly a little bit to get to the 4th screw. You can do this by just removing two screws from the diverter and loosening the third. This way you can move it aside enough to get to the 4th screw.
Once you have the assembly out you can adjust the switches very easily.
Quoted from jcar302:Glad you said something, that assembly really did come out easy from the bottom. I would have never thought it was that simple.
Which was good because there was a switch you can't see on the backside which was mangled and wedged inside the slot. I spent all my time messing with the front two before.
So far so good after a few games. Completely changes how the game plays.
Thanks,
Joe
If the switch was mangled inside the slot it´s likely that it´s the wrong wireform. The rectangular leg at the end of the wire might be too short. That was the case on my RS.
1 year later
Quoted from kechlesurf:I am looking at the Great Lakes Modular Opto Board (RS-BOB Road Show Blade Interrupter Board) as I went under the playfield and adjusted mine until the red light came on and then backed it down a little so it went off and tested it. It did not recognize the pinball above it. Going to order one of these and swap it out and hopefully that fixes the issue.
I´m not quite sure if I can follow your logic here. What you tried to adjust was the Eddy board, what you´re going to replace is the Interrupter Board. That doesn´t make sense to me. If the Eddy board doesn´t recognize blade hits, then you should replace the Eddy board. But maybe I´m missing something here....
Edit: the Interrupter Board can be tested with the Blade Test (T.16) from the menu.
1 week later
1 month later
In my RS it was the ASIC that caused the flashers to do all kind of funny stuff. Pressing it into its socket did the magic.
1 year later
Quoted from TOLLS:Thanks. I will check that. Appreciate
Also check that big white Z connector in the backbox. A very common culprit for resets on a Roadshow pin.
7 months later
Quoted from TOLLS:I have installed the RS Pin to DMD colour code released recently. It’s beta code but it is progressing really well. This is going to make this pin really special. It’s something to consider for this game. It must have one of the best dot graphics for its era.
[quoted image]
where did you get those files from?
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