Hey gang, does anyone have or know where I can get a new or minty used translight or complete backglass?
(Topic ID: 83745)
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Road Show
Williams, 1994
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If you're saying Red's eyelids are stuck up (open) and the coil stays energized, Q46 transistor is shorted.
If the eyelids are stuck down (closed), Q50 is shorted. Yes you can unplug and still play.
You can use a TIP102 or TIP122 (aka NTE2343), very common transistors, if you have a local electronics store, I'm sure they're readily available.
Quoted from Pauz21:And that's q46 on the main board right? The biggest one?
Correct
Quoted from Pauz21:Found someone locally who had a couple transistors kicking around. She's fixed. Thanks for the help. It's officially 100% for the first time since I bought it in March.
Good job, glad you got it going!
Hey gang... this may sound nuts, but is there any tweak or guide that anyone knows of, to REALLY soften the shaker motor in this thing?
I also have an Earthshaker, as we all know, it uses the exact same shaker assy, and it doesn't put out nearly HALF the chaos that my RS does!
I have L-6, shaker IS set to "soft" and still, the vibration is so violent that it shakes shit off the walls at my neighbors house!! The sound of the PF glass vibrating drowns out the game sounds, and i'm worried that one day its going to shatter!! I'm totally not exaggerating, the violence actually turns the enhancement into a nuisance and huge distraction!
Luckily I don't have this game sitting on tile or concrete, the levelers would eventually jackhammer through the floor!!
Quoted from Pimp77:You could move the shaker weights more towards the center of the rotation.
Time for some new eyelids i'm thinkin, or the linkage came apart... they're at half-mast the wrong way, not a good sign. Any way you slice it, her head's gotta come apart.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Hey gang... this may sound nuts, but is there any tweak or guide that anyone knows of, to REALLY soften the shaker motor in this thing?
I also have an Earthshaker, as we all know, it uses the exact same shaker assy, and it doesn't put out nearly HALF the chaos that my RS does!
I have L-6, shaker IS set to "soft" and still, the vibration is so violent that it shakes shit off the walls at my neighbors house!! The sound of the PF glass vibrating drowns out the game sounds, and i'm worried that one day its going to shatter!! I'm totally not exaggerating, the violence actually turns the enhancement into a nuisance and huge distraction!
Luckily I don't have this game sitting on tile or concrete, the levelers would eventually jackhammer through the floor!!
Ok, I tried the "moving the counterweights" idea... Not possible, the set screws are fixed to a divot in the shaft. So, I completely removed the weight on one side. It is just a TAD less violent, but still nuts!
Any other mods that anyone knows of to tame this shaker motor??
Quoted from kapsreiter:Hi
Backboard Decals!
I am interested to install a backboard decal.
Who has installed this in a already shopped machine?
Is it possible to unmount the backboard without to remove the half machine and the loop rails ?
thanks for infos
tom
Yes, the backboard assembly comes out without removing any other playfield stuff.
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:Put a new divot on the shaft where you want to try the counterweights.
Slow the rotation of the motor using a rheostat, dimmer switch, or potentiometer.
Remove some weight.
If your Earthshaker is fine and uses the exact same shaker figure out what the difference is between the two.
All good suggestions, thank you! Drilling a divot into that shaft would be nearly impossible without a machine shop. Adding a pot is a last resort because reducing the voltage will eventually damage the motor, and cutting the counterweight shorter is actually my next attempt at a solution. I am also looking at different rubber material, to try and place between the motor assembly and the cabinet, as a buffer.
Quoted from papazit1963:It's easy to remove. And it's very easy to paint too. Rattle-can a nice gloss black, let dry, then mask for the stripes and paint the yellow.
Looks good, nice clean lines! But your sockets are supposed to be on the back, not the front... From the front, you should only see the domes and the screw heads or rivet heads.
Thanks to your tragedy, I just ordered eyelids for Red and Ted to have as spares from BAA, PPS has them in stock too. And im pretty sure Marco also had em! You'll have to paint the eyelashes yourself or just leave them blank... Nobody has the "decorated" version anymore.
1 month later
Quoted from SPARKY70:Hi rygar, thanks for the reply.
After looking further, it seems that teds mouth switch is under the playfield in the metal subway going to the ball lock upkicker. Can anyone confirm? Thanks. Sparky
Correct.
Quoted from SPARKY70:Thanks, now to figure out why my diagnostic switches are not working.....
Assuming you've checked to see if any wires have broken off the switches, look very carefully at the wires and connectors on the coindoor interface board. Tug at each wire gently to make sure none of the wires are broken off at the connector. Ive seen it happen many many times... IDC connectors + small gauge wire = eventual problems.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Mrawesome44:How hard is it to fix problems with this pin for a beginner? Im really interested i purchasing one of these but i heard things blow quite frequently especially Ted's Head
2 weeks later
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Any links to tutorials on how to fix and repair the heads. Planning on buying and I'm trying to be proactive and learn how to fix the most troublesome pieces
4 weeks later
Quoted from Mrawesome44:People hate fixing Ted. The hate for Ted is so strong that many people avoid owning the pin simply for Ted.
Then there's weirdo's like me who enjoy working on the games as much as playing... Maybe more!
Ted is not that hard to work on, if you know what you're doing.
Comet = Best LED's... Period. I easily have about 1000 Comet LED's across my 8 machines, and I havn't had a single one fail yet. If you're going to make the investment, get the best, then you're done, a one time purchase and you're likely never replacing any bulbs ever again.
Most "kits" have a mix of white for GI and colors for inserts. You don't HAVE to use colored LED's for inserts or flashers, you can use white for everything and it will still look great, the domes and inserts are already colored for the intent of using white (incandescent) light! You can create your own custom color kit by referring to the bulb charts in the manual, that's how the LED suppliers create their kits! Once you have all your bulb totals, you can order in quantities from Comet and save money, plus they'll ship free once you hit $99+.
1 month later
Quoted from Amarillopinball:i have seen some people comment that the difference between the normal and soft setting for the shaker is not noticeable, would you agree? the setting it is on now is insane, the ones i have played on location are not this violent.
I would agree! I had to build a resistor circuit for mine to have any control over it. Even on "soft" the legs were jackhammering thru my floor while playing, not to mention vibrating the PF glass so violently that I couldn't hear the game sounds over it!!
1 week later
All the machine screws in this game are either 6-32, or 8-32. I'm pretty sure those screws are 6-32.
1 month later
Quoted from jcar302:Also the level on the side, where the hell is the bubble supposed to be? Has a whole bunch of lines instead of just 2 like a standard level.
You've been on pinside for 4 years, own 4 machines, feel confident enough to work on Red/Ted heads (one of the most complex assemblies in pinball)... But you dont know how to adjust the pitch angle or read the level on the machine?? 
Have a look at the manual.
Im not sure if you're really uber-sensitive, but it sure sounds like you are! I'm not a millennial, so I sometimes tend to give people the benefit of the doubt and have higher expectations of people then I should. I'm usually really quick to help someone... and when I said "take a look at the manual", stupid me assumed you were aware of this too...
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1972/Williams_1994_Red_Ted_s_Road_Show_Operations_Manual_October_1994_OCR_searchable_includes_parts_information_and_schematics.pdf
1 month later
Make sure neither of the coil retainers are crooked. Sometimes they get cocked when you tighten the screws and will pinch the plunger in the coil sleeve. You can usually tell if this is happening in Red test mode, when the eyes should be moving, you can hear a hum from the coil, but no movement. Those springs are very light and will only return the plunger to center if the plunger in fact moves absolutely freely.
1 week later
Quoted from chrisnack:Anyone have a fix or solution for the ball getting stuck just under/behind the small flipper?
I've found the best way to get it out is to actually use the little flipper, that gives you somewhat of a chance to pop it out. Shaking it out has never done ANYTHING but drain for me.
Make sure you have the right rubbers there, I have seen a ton of games that have the wrong rubber setup on those posts which will cause the ball to get stuck there. Have a look at your manual.
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:Ted developed a new ability last night...Super left look.
Does he have a chubby too??
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pugsley:Hell at this point why not 3D print some actual barrels that will fit over them? Not saying you have to do it but somebody should be able to.
Quoted from allsportdvd:I regularly have balls getting stuck up around the top of the left ramp above Bobs Bunker. Is there supposed to be a plastic on top of the yellow left ramp?
I had the same problem, the ball would jump out of the ramp and stick between the switch and side of the cabinet. The game wasn't designed with a ramp cover, but it should have been... So I made one, end of problem.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Exactly the place mine wedges. Could you possibly put a pic up of the one you made?
Best I can do...
Quoted from allsportdvd:Awesome, wanna make another?
2 weeks later
Quoted from allsportdvd:I don't understand the switch chart at all
I promise that i'm not trying to be rude, but if that's true, you'll want to call in a tech. Screwing around with electronics that you don't understand, only leads to a longer and growing list of problems and expenses.
1 week later
Quoted from meeotch:Apologies for the cross-post, but I thought I'd try to get this issue in front of folks who know RS intimately... The short version is, Ted's dozer blade doesn't raise when he goes to sleep, but does work in all the tests, and *does* go up and down if multiball is started by manually inserting a ball in his mouth.
Long version is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-dozer-blade-issue-1
Anyone have any insight into this? My stint out here in Las Vegas is ending soon, and I hate to leave the game less than 100% functional.
This is hard to spitball without putting eyes on it, but my thought process tells me to look at a mechanical issue that may be physically preventing the blade from moving when Ted's mouth is in the open position. I'm also thinking that because the blade works in other scenario's, this may be a logic glitch... If the Ted head test properly reports both positions of Ted's mouth, I would do a RAM clear. As a side note, the eddy sensor has no relevance to your issue.
Quoted from meeotch:theonlyest - thanks for the suggestions. And if you want to put eyes on the game, come on down - I'm at the PHoF on Tropicana!
1 month later
Quoted from Mrawesome44:I just got my Road show and it seems like a wire or so got jostled. I have 3 switches that are closed. Number 47- Hit Ted, Number 48-Hit dozer, and 62 right sling. I've never had a switch issue and i have absolutely no idea where to start looking or what to do about it.Not even sure if the problem can be found in the backbox or under the playfield. If anyone could help i would be extremely appreciative
The 1st 2 are the eddy sensor, the sling switch probably just needs a bit of bending to open the gap. If you dont know how to adjust the eddy sensor, just google it.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Hey everyone i narrowed it down. It's coming from thier eyes. Every-time they move thier eyes the game makes the error noise. What do you think is causing the error noise?
Its not an error noise, it's coil hum, normal.
1 week later
Quoted from hlaj78:I don't want to tell you what you did, someone else has to do it.
What he said... And you now have to forfeit your screen name to remain on Pinside.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Indusguys:I also spoke with the seller of the game, and he said this was not happening for him. Something might have came loose during transportation, but I checked all the connections and nothing was loose.
The seller is probably lying... This is an extremely common problem. Start by reseating all the ribbon cables in the backbox, then do a simple search in these forums and you will find hundreds of posts and solutions to try.
1 week later
Quoted from Indusguys:Ok just checked the transistors that correspond with pop bumpers and slingshots, they are all reading fine. Where do you guys think I should look next?
OK, enuff of this... Time to jump in and offer some real help to this dude... If your coils all work in solenoid test mode, you're wasting your time playing with the driver transistors. Go into switch test and see if the sling and pop switches register... I suspect they wont. i'm 98% sure you have a switch matrix problem, which can be as simple as a broken common wire, to replacing the U20 chip on the CPU board.
Look under the PF and find the green w/blue stripe wire which is common to the switches on both slings and all 3 pop bumpers... follow it to every sling and pop switch, also making sure that the diode leads at those switches are not broken on either side, and then follow the wire all the way up to the J207 connector on the CPU board and make sure it isn't broken anywhere. Report back and we'll go from there.
Quoted from Indusguys:I have checked everything under the PF a few times now, I will check one more time to make sure the diode leads at the switches aren't broken. I have followed all the wires and everything looks good, but I didn't look that close at the diodes. I will check first thing in the morning. Thanks!
I am still convinced that since your entire column 6 is out, you have a broken or disconnected wire, either on the J207 connector, or at one of the pop switches. Did you do the switch test? Do you know how to do a continuity test with an ohm meter?
Obviously if I put eyes on your game, i'd be able to tell you whats wrong in a matter of seconds, there's only so much I can do here blindly.
Quoted from Indusguys:Did you mean J107 connection? If so everything is fine there. All diodes and wires are good. When I turn on the game it says press enter for test report, I go into the tests and it says all the switches in column 6 aren't working. I have done a switch edge test and none of the switches for my problem area are working. I do know how to do continuity test, what should I test? The diodes? I do not have access to a ULN2803A chip in my city. Would it be ok to remove the same chip from my Addams family and see if it fixes my problem? Otherwise I will have to wait a few days to get the chip. What do you think?
No, J207 on the CPU board (bottom of the farthest left board), not the big power/driver board. A continuity test is done using your ohm meter with the leads at each end of a wire, you should have 0 ohms if the wire is good, if no change, the wire is bad. It is not uncommon for a wire to be broken inside the insulation and not be visibly obvious. To connect a test lead at the connector end, you will need to insert a metal pin or thin paperclip into the connector where the Green w/Blue stripe wire is (pin 7).
While the Addams Family is not a WPC-S game, U20 would be the same chip. If it is socketed on your AF, then yes, you could swap it over... But if its soldered directly to the board, DONT remove it for testing in your RS.
Do I need to remind you to have the games powered OFF when doing any of this stuff?? 
ULN2803A -- http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ULN2803A
Quoted from Indusguys:Is there only one U20 location? What tool do you use to pull the chip?
Yes, Ideally an electronics "hook" but you can do it with a tiny flat jewelers screwdriver, pry gently back and forth on each side to remove it straight, as to not bend the pins. If you bend any pins, gently bend them back dead straight before reinstalling.
Quoted from Indusguys:A small sewing needle should work to test the connector continuity right?
Indeed, any rigid metal that will fit in the connector, dont force something too big. Use the pins on the board as a reference for size.
Quoted from Indusguys:Ok I took the chip from Addams family and moved it to Road Show, and now everything works!
Theonlyest thank you so much!
Quoted from Indusguys:A fellow Pinsider near me had a couple to spare! Everything is working great, except for now when I turn on the machine all the coils fire for a couple seconds, it seems like it might be stuck, and then the machine boots up as normal?
Normal. The diagnostic system causes that from the previous errors in memory, it will stop.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Indusguys:I have done a bit of reading and although IDC isn't optimal it will work perfectly fine in this situation I think.
Yes, you'll obviously need to build this cable yourself, the 2 connectors you linked will work, but the 6-position flat molex is not an IDC connector, so you will have to also buy the proper pins for it. If you are able to properly punch an IDC connector, use that instead of the molex. Anyone who discourages using an IDC connector, is someone who isn't able to properly punch them down IMHO.
Be prepared to possibly address some other issues once you get this all together... It's possible that the entire shaker system was removed by some dumbass for a reason other than the game was jackhammering through the floor... In which case it could have simply been disabled in settings or disconnected.
Quoted from Coyote:No. Anyone who doesn't recommend them hasn't been a real tech on games out in the field, where vibration and jarring loosens them over time, leaving you with issues that takes a long time ti diagnose because those connections - from factory - loosen and become intermittent.
Do it one with a Molex or TE Con plug, and if something starts to fail, you can rule out the connector, and look elsewhere.
Hmm, interesting... I've been a Williams factory trained and certified pinball tech since 1991, not to mention a degree in electronics, and have repaired thousands of pins in my 26 years. Perhaps I just don't understand the definition of a "real tech". And thanks for the reminder of why I am always reluctant to give advice in these club forums... 2 down.
Quoted from dirtbag66:I'm officially a member!!!
Quoted from dirtbag66:My son loving machine #11!
Awesome! Congrats & welcome!
1 week later
Quoted from chinosts:Anyone know where I can get a set of cabinet decals for my Road Show?
http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/RS_Page.html
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/road-show-cabinet-decals.html?___store=default
Quoted from allsportdvd:I regularly have well balls fly off the top of the left ramp and wedge somewhere around Bobs Bunker. Has anyone put a clear plastic on top of that ramp to prevent such problems? If so can I see a pic?
1 month later
Quoted from Bohdi:What size flipper rubber does the small flipper take? Ordering flipper rubber today, and I'm unsure of the small flipper size. At work so I don't know. 1 or 2" ?
That ring is usually referred too as a "small" or "mini" flipper ring, but it's 1" ID.
The Williams part number is 23-6553 or 23-6682, if that helps.
3 months later
Quoted from cocomonkeh:My apron is pretty trashed. Is there a high-res scan anywhere or does anyone have a good lead on decals?
https://littleshopofgames.com/product/road-show-5-piece-apron-decals/
1 month later
Quoted from kechlesurf:I am working on getting the shaker motor working next and have been able to get it working but it is violent and seems like it is unbalanced or something. Should I expect the shaker motor to be similar to Earthshaker or is Road Show shaker just a violent shaker?
Mine was the same, my house is built on a slab, and I was worried that over time, the legs would jackhammer through the floor! I did 5 different things just to get mine to about the same intensity as my Earthshaker...
1. Removed one the 2 counterweights.
2. Put 2 star post rubbers on each of the bolts between the housing and cab.
3. Removed bracket that attaches the motor assembly to the side of the cab.
4. Added a 100 ohm ceramic resistor to lower motor voltage as much as possible without damaging the motor.
5. Put it on the lowest setting in the menu.
Eventually I will make 2 custom counterweights that will resolve the entire issue by itself, but its more complicated a project than it sounds.
Quoted from kechlesurf:Great suggestions. Is it possible to put an Earthshaker motor in Road Show?
1 month later
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:Is there any one likely point of failure that would prevent the flashers from working?
Yes, a fuse.
3 weeks later
Quoted from tjprice222:Getting ready to shop out my RS. Any words of advice from those who have already accomplished the task?
Patience. Take your time. Take a shitload of pics (use an iPad if you have one) of every inch, from all angles before you pickup a single tool. Work from the top down, taking a shitload more pics as you go, after each major piece is removed. Reassemble in the exact same order, reverse of teardown... The "during" pics should guide you in reassembly if you start from the last pic you took and keep swiping to the right!
If you take your time, pay attention and be methodical, instead of being in a hurry... When difficulties arise, you should find the task to be an enjoyable challenge, rather than a stressful nightmare.
Enjoy!!
1 week later
Quoted from tas_tig3r:Does anyone know if you can install a Stern shaker into a Roadshow?
No, totally different. Are you missing the whole shaker assy, or did your motor just fail?
3 months later
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:Does anyone happen to know the RAL colour number for the blue legs???
Its identical to Ford "engine block" blue, if that helps. I got my paint from an auto parts store... The high-temp epoxy spray paint is quite durable!
IMG_3465 (resized).JPG 8 months later
Quoted from LargemouthAss:So all of a sudden the bulldozer is not registering hits for M-F. The eddy board lights up when a ball goes over the magnet and it registers in the switch test. Ted works fine and the bulldozer goes up and down in the test mode. Any idea on what to check?
The weekday callouts don't work in every mode, in several modes, you'll just hear like a gong sound. Have a look at the ruleset for details. If all your tests pass as you said, there isn't a problem with the eddy sensor or the logic system.
Quoted from LargemouthAss:Yeah I get nothing any time I hit the bulldozer. No crushed cabs, advanced days of the week, or victory in Salt Lake City.
When I hit the dozer with a ball the LED on the Eddy Board turns on but in gameplay nothing.
I'd do a hard reboot, pull batteries and pull the plug for 10 mins... Down side is you'll lose all your settings and scores, but if you have any glitching processor hooks, this will reset them.
4 months later
Quoted from Piso:Hi,
since I have my road show (two month now) I have some marks on ted cheeks. I thought they were caused by balls hitting his face ( ). Today I got a ball stuck just under the dozer and I realized that those marks were made by the clear plastic dozer protection hitting the cheeks. It happens during multi ball when a ball pushes under the dozer. I see that there is a dozer version that doesn't have the clear plastic on top, maybe a improved part? Does anyone else have the same problem? Thank you and happy new year [quoted image][quoted image]
2 things... Why not just trim the clear plastic so it no longer makes contact with Ted's cheek. 2nd, the rubber on the single post is the wrong size, it needs to be a 7/16" OD, you have a 3/8" OD on there. Also , make sure you have 5/16" ID rings on the double star post, it looks like the ones you have are 3/16" ID. With the correct rubbers, the ball cant get stuck there.
7 months later
Quoted from mcluvin:Cab looks really good! I gotta ask. Is the chicken all scratched up? Does anyone not have a scratched up chicken? We need repro translites.
No scratches on my chicken, but my translite does have a couple other minor boo boo's. Classic Arcades was making repro translites, but very recently they either ran out of them or were forced to stop making them. It's now gone from their website and no longer on listed ebay.
1 week later
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:I found this at the bottom of the cab, is this anything to worry about? I couldn't see where it might have came from!
It looks pretty scorched on the one side, regardless, it's safe to assume that some slack operator/tech replaced it, and used the lower cab as a trash can... Typical.
2 weeks later
Quoted from allsportdvd:I need a translite too but this post is about the decal for the backboard behind Teds head
I believe the decal you're referring too is just a mod that some people do. From the factory, that panel is just black. Get yourself a roll of yellow or orange vinyl or duct tape and make your own stripes the way you like.
3 months later
1 month later
Quoted from THJM:A couple of questions.
I am going to LED my RS. The little red lights in the highway signs, are they already LEDs?
The LED's on the ramp signs are identical to the red one on the board in your pic. You can change them to a different color, but I personally don't see the point.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Paseb:Am i missing a rubber on the post? [quoted image]
You certainly are, 3/8" OD. And if its been played like that for a while, you need to replace your pinballs too.
Quoted from Paseb:thx
indeed, whats the sign that the pinballs need replacement?
The more a pinball hits metal, the more microscopic dings it gets, which eventually turns it into a grinding ball. Which wears tracks into your plastic ramps and slowly grinds off your PF clearcoat and artwork. The more worn a PF is, the more likely the owner still has the original balls in the game after 20+ years.
Replacing the balls is the most important and most commonly ignored detail of proper pinball maintenance.
2 months later
Is that topper really popular or something? Mine had one when I bought it, and honestly I really don't givashit that its there...
4 months later
Quoted from RobDutch:Right ramp divertor error popped up..
It seems to work perfectly, what am I missing?
[quoted image]
Its because you havn't hit the combo that activates that diverter in a while. The game throws an error if a switch hasn't been triggered in a certain number of balls. Take off the glass, start a game, take the ball out and use your finger to hit all the ramp entrances, exits and return lane switches in the order that the ball would, do that back and forth between the left and right ramp until the diverter moves, then hit the next switches in the ramp path as the ball would. That will clear the error.
Quoted from RobDutch:I know that the Bally/Williams games do this, so my first thought was exactly that. "Unfortunately" every switch seems to work, so I'm kinda stumped.. Rolling the ball through the left inlane and pushing it up the right ramp activates the right diverter.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You have to follow my instructions for the error to clear, the fact that your switches are working is great, but irrelevant to the cause of the error.
My game throws this error frequently as well, because I am a MUCH better tech and restorer than player.
The instructions I tried to clearly explain (short of making a video), clears the error 100% of the time... testing the switches and diverter in test mode, will not clear the error.
If you dont care about your stored high scores and dont mind redoing all your game setting, a RAM clear will clear the error too!
1 month later
Quoted from MikeSinMD:OK. I should have been more specific. It is Almost in the center of the play field. It is where the left side crosses over and connects to the right wire ramp. Thanks
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4006-01035-05
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4406-01128-00
2 months later
Quoted from Nez02:Anyone happen to have this right in-lane plastic laying around? I broke mine.
I might, gotta wait till I get home from work to check tho...
1 week later
Quoted from shirkle:A couple questions and concerns with my RS:
How common are left ramp airballs? Some of my clean ramp shots jump up and hit the plastic above the ramp.
I’ve noticed what seems to be a power sag/drop during multiball on my left upper flipper and mini flipper. When not in multi-ball, both seem to function properly, although sometimes a little weak. During multiball, they seem to have a very noticeable lag to them (like a delay between my button press and the flippers responding) which makes jackpot shots impossible on Red. Any ideas?
Left ramp airballs are a constant, you need to make a ramp cover to end that. Myself and others have done that, search this thread for images & details.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/20#post-3847732
Also sounds like its time to rebuild your power supply board to resolve your flipper issues.
1 week later
Quoted from SFBP36:Great, thank you. I’ve adjusted the eddy in the past, didn’t realize that would also cause the flipper button to activate it. Thanks!
Vibration.
2 weeks later
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Anyone have a creative idea on how to make this look better? It’s a common problem. Someone must have done something unique?
There is an overlay, but most sources seem to be out of them atm. Google is your friend.
Quoted from Mocean:The overlay I've seen stops along the top edge the insert, which wouldn't help much here since the worst of it is below the insert.
One like this would work, you'd just cut what you need from it, or use the whole thing...
65406_1 (resized).jpgQuoted from MyParagon1979:Huh.
It’s that clear plastic post.
Seems odd.
I’ll find something to put there,
I find the drilled hole odd!
Yes, a plastic mini-post goes in that hole! They are VERY commonly added in areas like this on just about EVERY pin ever built!! They are to prevent balls getting stuck there! These are added by the designers during development when they test the games and find areas where balls can get stuck, usually between ramps and plastics. Rule of thumb... if there's a hole in a plastic that doesn't have a corresponding post stud going through it, put a mini-post in there!!
1 month later
Quoted from Newstar:Second, can anyone tell me what the parts go to that are pictured below? They were just sitting in the bottom of the cabinet.
The switches are from the coin door, they register the quarter drops, not really needed for home use. The clear thing is a broken chunk of nothing.
Side advice... Based on your obvious lack of pinball repair expertise, i'd suggest bringing in an expert to help you get your major issues sorted.
1 week later
If you're sure the wire is not broken anywhere, and you've checked for continuity etc... you probably need to replace transistor Q95 on the P/D board.
1 week later
Quoted from MyParagon1979:That itty bitty white plastic on the left is broken.
[quoted image]
That's called a nyliner bearing, and it does not appear to be broken. It absolutely is needed for smooth operation and to center the eyelids in the frame.
To suggest removing the nyliner as "not needed" is very poor advice, no offense.
The nyliner can be easily replaced if its deformed and causing binding. A drop of dry lube shouldn't be needed by design, but it wont hurt anything either.
1 month later
Quoted from Aflacjack:Joined the club last month and seems the eddy switch thinks a ball is going across it constantly. Adjustment sucks so I ordered the pinbits boards to hopefully fix it once and forget.
?? Pinbits is back?
1 week later
Quoted from SimplePin:My scoop was pretty beat up so I installed Cliffy's full set of protectors for this game. Scoop looks real nice now. I also installed plastic protectors under the slings and blasting zone plastics. Yes I remembered to reinstall the post sleeves before playing
Here's the link to the protectors on Marcos. Currently out of stock but they come back in stock often enough.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CG1593[quoted image][quoted image]
Since you're all in preservation mode, i'd suggest a 1.5" strip of mylar about an inch below the fish insert to the scoop, before you beat that area up next.
1 week later
Quoted from Staffan:I'm pretty sure there are no flashers in the backbox of roadshow?
I'm not aware of any Lawlor Williams/Bally games that have flashers in the backbox. Most have blinkers tho.
1 month later
Quoted from MyParagon1979:How many y’all have a kahr daughterboard?
Was having some resets thought secondary to summer A/C. Kahr installed and playing great. Chase the ghost? Or enjoy the game and deal with it later if worse problems?
I do, same exact story as this...
Quoted from qbass187:I do. I rebuilt my power driver board and was still having issues when I hit both flippers at the same time... not as much as before I rebuilt the board, but it would still happen occasionally. But it hasn't happened again since I installed Rob's board 2 years ago.
Based on my experience I'd totally recommend it!
3 weeks later
Quoted from pudealee:Occasionally I am having issues with air balls when shooting the left ramp. They will pop up and get wedged next to the switch just as the ball makes the turn. Has somebody made a plastic to cover the back of the ramp?
Not that i'm aware of... I also made my own, pretty simple, but you need some PETG and the right tools.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/20#post-3847732
2 months later
1 year later
Quoted from MG7322:does anyone have the blue paint code for the legs?
Ford engine block blue. VHT makes the best and most durable ceramic paint, available at Advance, Autozone and other places that sell paint and auto parts.
1 month later
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Is there a HD/Lowes rattle can that matched the legs? The legs are faded and old looking just want to put a coat of paint on them
Ford engine block blue, available at just about every auto parts store.
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