Can anyone supply a rubber ring chart for Road Show? Thanks

What are the details on the lights on the topper? Where did you get them and how tall are they? Make & model? Thanks

Thank you for your response. If you figure out a good way to wire them let the group know.

How did you hold the little hard hats in place?

I agree try one pop bumper at a time. I think the pop bumper lights are part of the GI circuit so the mod should not affect the switches.

Yes. I like that it also allows you to play all 3 west coast cities.

My dozer blade does not lower completely at the end of multiball. It works correctly in test mode. So far I have cleaned the optics and reflowed the solder. What should I try next?

Is the plastic behind the radio station targets clear or does it have a design on it?

I use a GIOCD board for dimming sequences. I did not have flickering problems with either GI or inserts.

My game requires hitting the bulldozer again between the locks. I believe it is:
A.2 09 Weeks To Lock 2
The number of weeks the player has to complete before the game lights lock 2.
Settings: 0 or 1 Week

The following are notes I copied over time from previous posts that seem to blame the shaker motor.
"Multiball start triggers once two balls are locked. The dozer blade fails to go up most of the time. Sometimes it will. Most of the time it won't. So you can't actually start multiball unless the blade is up.
Someone previously mentioned testing with the shaker off. With the shaker off the dozer went up 6 out of 6 times. With the shaker set to soft the dozer went up 4 out of 6 times. Seems like the shaker is shaking a loose wire connection. The wires from the motor (through ferrite ring) to the board are very short and tight. I wonder if that was a previous repair that I need to remedy.

I had an issue with the dozer that is similar to yours. Sometimes the dozer would work fine and other times would not, typically when the shaker motor was extra "shakey." It ended up being a molex connector going to one of the boards under the playfield. Its been a while and I cannot recall exactly which one but it had at least 4 wires on it. One of the wires was starting to lift out of its slot, causing intermittent connection issues. I re punched the wire back into the molex connector and it fixed the problem. I remember also working on Ted's mouth so look at that motor board first."

I had a problem with my Dozer Blade not always going down. Multi-ball started correctly but the bade would not always go down between Jackpots or at the end of multi-ball. I removed and reflowed the soldier on the EMI board. This did not have any effect on the problem. I removed the Opto board and cleaned the optos. I also reflowed the connector and the components on the board. This fixed my problem. I saw recently that Big Daddy Enterprises sells a replacement for the Opto board both on Ebay and their website.

Ted Removal
I labeled connectors as I removed them, starting with A
0. Remove Lock down bar, playfield glass & 4 balls
1. Remove Subway below Ted: 4 screws, connector A
2. Remove Hats: 1 screw each
3. Remove right side metal ramp: 1 locknut & washer, 4 screws, connector B
4. Remove right plastic ramp: 4 flap screws, 2 screws (one behind back board), connectors: C, D, E
5. Remove metal ramp from left kicker: 2 screws into plastic ramp, 1 locknut & washer on kicker
6. Remove left metal ramp: 2 lock nuts & washers under playfield, 4 screws, connectors F, G
7. Remove left diverter: 3/32” hex set screw
8. Remove left plastic ramp: 2 flap screws, 2 screws, 1 long screw holding plastic post with 2 rubber rings, connectors H, I, J, K
9. Remove left & right blue plastics: 2 lock nuts each
10. Remove Bull Dozer hex nuts to separate from Ted
11. Remove front & back of face: 4 #6 screws
12. Under playfield remove locknut & screw that hold dozer in place: connector K to dozer opto board
13. Under playfield remove 4 screws that holds ted’s jaw motor in place
14. Below the playfield the scoop is still in the way. Remove 3 of 4 screws so you can slightly move the scoop.
15. Disconnect Ted’s mouth from motor: e-clip & pin
16. Under the playfield remove Ted’s 4 screws and connector L and take him out

I fixed Ted's open Eyes and put in a new Rottendog Driver Board. When I was done everything in Ted worked perfectly but I had two problems. The first was resets and the second was the dozer blade would not lift to go into multiball. Both problems seemed strange as I shouldn't get resets with a new driver board and the dozer blade worked correctly in test. I took a no more resets board out of another game and put it into Roadshow and both problems were fixed. Why would this fix the dozer problem?

Thanks for your thoughts. While working on Ted I installed a new Big Daddy Opto Board. If I take the "No More Resets Board" out I'm getting fewer resets, but the dozer blade does not raise to start multiball. If I put it back in the dozer blade raises to start multiball.

It did turn out great. But it seems way more work than a decal.

Road Show Back (resized).JPG

I finally decided how to power the lights on my topper. I connected one to the red flashers on the back board and one to the white flashers. So my topper flashers flash during "a storm is coming", at the start of multiball and during the light show at the end of the game.

Road Show Topper01 (resized).JPG

When did you purchase your eddy boards? In August of 2021 I purchased an eddy board from Pinball Life and it had a bad IC on the board and would not work. They had the manufacturer replace their inventory. A board where you cannot make the LED go on and off will not work.

I put LEDs in 12 games including Road Show. I put a GIOCD board in White Water because it has extensive dimming, but all my other pins seem fine without OCD boards.

The back wall are flashers. The pop bumpers are part of the GI circuit.

One of the links to the lashes is likely broken.

Make sure the diverter isn't rubbing on the cutout in the back board.