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Quoted from gweempose:Welcome to the club. I love that topper!
Yeah, it was made by the pre owner. The light stuff in the topper rotates when a multiball is started.
Ted's eyes do not move left. I exchanged plugs with Reds working ones and it still doesn't move. So the coil is not working.
Is there a pictorial how to dissamble Ted from the playfield?
Quoted from CaptainCaverne:First check for wire issue : i had the same problem, and was dreading for disassemble the head, but i noticed that, at some point in time, someone has cut all the wires leading to the eyes/lids of both head, and (poorly) soldered them together again.
Once all wires were properly resoldered and protected with heat-shrink sleeve, everything went back to normal.
Of course, if a wire is cut near the coil, you will have to disassemble anyway...
Thanks a lot. I got in touch with Ted now and he was a difficult guy.
I measured his move eyes left coil and its shortened. Time to clean until the new coil arrives.
20200826_173740 (resized).jpg20200827_085028 (resized).jpg20200827_085041 (resized).jpgReplaced the coil, assembled everything together and tested again. The new coil is now also defect. What a mess. Reminder for myself, test Ted before assembling.
Ok, voltage on d24 gives me 80V, according schematic it should be 50v. I think this is ok?
Then grabbed the red wire directly from the eyes left coil. For testing eyes wide and eyes open it gives me a good signal. See pics
But nothing on test for eyes left, last pic.
Screenshot_20200829-084638_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg20200829_091715 (resized).jpg20200829_091709 (resized).jpg20200829_092043 (resized).jpg20200829_092043 (resized).jpg20200829_092040 (resized).jpg20200829_092124 (resized).jpg20200829_092121 (resized).jpg20200829_092211 (resized).jpgQuoted from monkfe:your output voltage looks good, its 50v unregulated, but normally measures around 75vdc. I'd put my money on the transistor. You said the original coil was bad? I assume you measured it with a DMM? on a low ohms setting? should be pretty low resistance, but you said it was shorted...I would recheck that. But you then installed a new coil, are you getting 50v (80 in your case) at J129 pin 1? If the voltage is good back to the board, I'd replace that transistor. A simple check with a DMM in diode check mode should tell you if that transistor is bad...(hell you have an Oscope!)
I checked the transistor and it gave me 0,6V something with dmm diode test. And since I got the weired output on Pin2 collector I replaced it.
Now I get a clean output on Pin2, but only 0,8V.
Shouldn't it be 50v something?
I checked the voltage on Tp6 and its nearly 82V.
20200829_112008 (resized).jpg20200829_132002 (resized).jpgI have compared the output of q52 =eyes right with q58 =eyes left with disconnected j127. It shows same low level voltage on Pin2 tip102.
After I connected the j127, q52 shows roughly 80V. Q58 stays on the low voltage. So either the coil connected to q58 via j127-1 is damaged or there is something else.
I replaced already the transistor. So q58 is a new one. I have attached a pic of the test of the old defect transistor.
I have no spare sm-30-110. Is it possible to run a test with another coil with other values?
Screenshot_20200829-115722_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg15987106218726724764244660562610 (resized).jpgQuoted from Lermods:That’s impressive. How did you get him out without removing the ramps? Can you share your process/time to remove him?
I took a short cut. I bend the 4 L-profiles holding the base plate of Ted.... So this process just requires the dissambly of some parts under the pf. 15 minutes roughly. I don't think I should bend the L profiles very often. So I want to exactly plan my next steps.
Quoted from monkfe:ok so going back to my original test...you must check the voltage at J127 pin 1...this will tell you if you have a broken wire ...power flows from the board, out to the playfield, through the coil, and then back to the board...anywhere along that path a wire can break...so you must check it at that point to confirm that you have the voltage there...if you don't ...start tracing that wire back at every location it has a junction, if you do have power at that pin...then its something on the board...
J127 Pin1 is 0v. I have continuity from j127 Pin1 to coil connected to brown - black wire. One the other side of the coil I have no continuity, infinite ohm.
Works now. Turns out that it was a defect coil. I had another replacement and eyes left works now like a charm. Neanwhile I'm able to exchange the coils while the is on the playfield. Quite an achievement.
Thanks for the help!
Quoted from monkfe:Ok, little hard to understand what you have there, but I think you have continuity (O-ohms) from J127-1 to the coil (M1?), but on the other side of the coil (M2), you have an open. So there is something going on with the coil it seems...are your solder connections good? What is the resistance across the coil (should be pretty low) ?
I desoldered the coil and it had an open. It was also for me a bit confusing because I measured in the beginning the false coil. After your hint about the wiring I solved my misunderstanding. Cheers
Now, I tested Red in more depth and eyes wide does not work I'm sure I can solve this again.
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