Either you had a wire break off of that
Solenoid or you have multiple solenoids not working and have a fuse blown.

For those of you that may be interested - Ron has a NOS playfield available -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kruzman-monthly-playfield-thread/page/64#post-7605636

Picked up a nice dirty RS 2 weeks ago. Went through all the errors and got it all working 100% then straight into a top side tear down and shop job. I don't have a lot of time on RS because I always knew I wanted to buy one at some point so learning the rules finally.

Already have the new code chip just haven't installed it yet until I get a good understanding of the original code then I'll understand the updates better.

A few upgrades went in during the shop job, Comet 2SMD Sunlight LED's for the most part some of the inserts are color matched and some of the white inserts I went with Cool White instead. Added 7 smd Cool white led strips under each ramp to give the yellow a nice pop. Added 3 smd Warm White led strips under the hardhats to light them up a little. Added a single Cool White spot light on the lower left sling already I'll probably do the right sling also. Last add was the New Radio Decal set to make the stock radio look better, I think that came out great really good quality on the stickers also very tacky. I need to print out some apron cards but that's it for it now.

Really enjoying RS and learning the rules finally, RS show is what I lost on in the last Pinburgh D Division finals on because I had no idea what to do then

20230606_233015 (resized).jpg

20230606_202242 (resized).jpg

20230606_233022_HDR (resized).jpg

20230606_202306 (resized).jpg

20230606_201348 (resized).jpg

20230606_202234 (resized).jpg

20230531_194958 (resized).jpg

Congrats! Just throw that new code in there now. It's so much better going through the modes. I wouldn't keep this game without the new code.

Congrats! It's a fun game.

it is a great game...pinsound is a great upgrade...some great sound mixes out there...

Nice RS pickup, it really is a fun game! Curious where you found the radio decal set? If it's available to purchase, I certainly would be interested.

That decal is available on ebay (I am not affiliated with Classic Arcade) or I offer a painted radio option.

Painted and light radio option: ebay.com link: itm [I would make to order at this point (red or yellow).]

Decals: ebay.com link: itm

PTHermes, Thank you for the eBay links regarding the radio decals!

Congrats and welcome. My all time favorite game. Play it daily. New code is great. Makes it more fun with the "randomized" cities. However if you go for skill shots like me you'll always start with New York City! Check my collection. If I could keep only one game it would be RS.

Pricing is no longer valid - need to increase price to cover the barricade flashers

Couple questions on the multi-ball.

1. The first time I get multi-ball, it just plays the music without words. If I get multi-ball a second time, then the song plays with words. Is this correct?

2. Once I qualify the lock by hitting the bulldozer through Friday, lock remains lit until I lock two balls (unless I'm in a City mode). Is there a way to have to hit the bulldozer again between the locks? i.e. Bulldozer thru Friday, lock ball #1, then Bulldozer thru Friday again before locking ball #2.

My game requires hitting the bulldozer again between the locks. I believe it is:
A.2 09 Weeks To Lock 2
The number of weeks the player has to complete before the game lights lock 2.
Settings: 0 or 1 Week

The difficulty to qualify gets harder after each multiball. Default is 2nd multiball, two weeks, third multiball, two weeks and you have to hit the blade twice for each day to qualify. Adjust to your liking.

Swapped for a road show Project. Excited to dig in. Lots to do, but glad to join the club.

I seem to be missing the apron. I have an extra fish tales apron , but I’m not sure that will work. Have to look at it a bit more.

43CE5761-A17B-458B-ADB5-8EB8AF642ED0 (resized).jpeg

Can anyone help me with a backboard diverter assembly?
I have the backboard and coil only

Road Show aprons are notoriously prone to corrosion under the paint. Many examples have bubbled or flaking paint. Your original one may have been to far gone or sold as parts to someone else who needed one. Not sure what the story is. Seems to have been a bad batch of aprons that only affected this one game.

And most importantly. Welcome to the club. My all time (currently) favorite game!

Anyone interested in a topper? Interactive with game. Flashes at startup as well.

Im open to offers. Im not selling for $200, but I also realize this isn’t a $1,000 topper. Open to offers via DM as well as communal debate on the value.

IMG_6152 (resized).jpeg

$210.00?

Anyone know where this purple cabled connector goes??

IMG_9440 (resized).jpeg

IMG_9441 (resized).jpeg

Ignore me! It’s the GI lamp directed at Ted’s face

I have the bubbling & flaking that you describe. A previous owner tried to repair it, including using some black electrical tape in certain spots. but it's not great, and it's on my "fix it someday" list.

Any ideas on a permanent fix / replacement for the apron?

Topper, shooter rods, and cup holder available.

Mod - For Sale

Road show topper! Archived

Used, good condition - “Topper in excellent condition. Interactive with game via alligator clip on motor beneath playfield. Price includes shipping. Very easy to install. I also have a pair of road s...”

2023-08-28

Grand Rapids, MI

Riefepeters

350

Archived after: 2 days

Viewed: 252 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Pair of shooters: $95 shipped to you (over 50% of online price from super skill shot shooters)

IMG_6314 (resized).png

IMG_6315 (resized).png

Can anyone share pictures of their #roadshow backbox plugs ? I have to rewire everything.

The closer you can get to the wires for color, the better.

3EA9B7B7-3025-4E43-ACE8-D2398BF03E2A (resized).jpeg

If you have the manual, there's a few pages in it where all the connector pinouts and wire colors are described, very helpful (as mine were all hacked up). But here's some pics

IMG_0301 (resized).JPG

IMG_0302 (resized).JPG

IMG_0303 (resized).JPG

IMG_0304 (resized).JPG

IMG_0305 (resized).JPG

IMG_0306 (resized).JPG

IMG_0307 (resized).JPG

IMG_0308 (resized).JPG

IMG_0309 (resized).JPG

IMG_0310 (resized).JPG

koen12344 i
Used your images to get the layout for the wires right and then found the pdf of the manual and am now checking all the connectors , thank you!

I joined the club this weekend. Loving it.

I am having a problem with my bulldozer.
Eddy boards work fine, but the blade interrupter doesn't.

When I got it the board was just intermittent. Went crazy during the dozer test firing off the switches.
I just bought the replacement board on Marco and now I can't get it to work at all.
In dozer test both "up" and "down" have the "x" in their boxes. In switch test they both show as open.
I broke the leads on my multimeter so I can test at the moment but the resistors on the board are hot.
I can also see the ir emitters working on the board with my cell camera.
Also have checked all switches in the same column and rows.
And finally, before bed I plugged in the old board and could get the switches to go crazy again.

Tyr this thread. I've had the same issue and for me it was an easy fix.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-dozer-up-and-down-bug

Thanks for reaching out.
Unfortunately that thread doesn't involve the same problem I'm having.
Eddy switches are fine, no phantom hits. No up and down movement during game at all.

My issue is I have power at my new blade interrupt board but no output to the matrix row to tell the CPU the optos are opening and closing. Same behavior in dozer test and in-game.
I don't think it's the 12v because I can see the LED's light with my phone camera and both the trough opto board and the motor work normally.

As a side issue; does anyone have a link to the proper spring that holds the dozer arm to the cam? I can't seem to find it in the manual and mines missing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/72#post-7389892

Maybe it’s not a side issue. The spring may have slipped off and now lays somewhere on the playfield or in the bottom of the cabinet.

I have many parts from a Roadshow project that I ended up parting out many years ago. Let me know what specific parts you need (part numbers) and I'll check if I have them.

Spring doesn't have effect on the electrical operation of the blade interrupt board.
I have new meter leads coming in tonight and I'll check voltages.
Knowing that the board isn't the end of the daisy-chain of the column or either rows, and knowing that the other switches on that column and rows test ok leads me to believe it's the connector or the board.
And again, the old flakey board does operate when plugged in.
The new board appears to get +12 and ground for the LED power. Running it over in my head I'm thinking that the diodes on the PCB could be mounted backwards, but that seems unlikely out of the box. Thanks for the replies everyone.

Ok, as an update my multimeter leads came in this evening. I test 13.9v between pins 1 and 2 for the 12v line on the interrupt board. LED transmitters are still lit as far as my cell phone camera can see.
I don't think I'm testing diodes correctly as I can't get beep test from leg to leg but do have continuity between the discharge side of both diodes which is correct.
No beep in between the column and rows of the connector either.

Check the diodes on the other switches in the row or column that both optos are in. Mine had a janky connection to a switch from the coin door interface board that caused both to show open

Thank you so much for replying - PM sent

I am creating a topper which will trigger with the Bridge out ramp lights, and also have a constant always on LED to light up the center sign. Will be ready in the next couple of weeks. Let me know if you're interested. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/74#post-7639869

I really need some parts to complete my game if anyone has parted out a machine or has spares
A-19050 Flying rocks diverter arm
A-19169 shaker motor assembly
A-18948 (consists of a number of seperate parts but I need the entire assembly)
10-408 Spring

How do you guys have your bottom main flippers positioned? I am having a hard time hitting Ted. There doesn’t seem to be anything on the playfield to go off of for adjustment.

image (resized).jpg

Is it flipper strength or angle of shot? Ted is straight up. Your flippers look like mine. I can hit Ted all day from either flipper from cradle or roll. Curious.

I can hit from a cradle not a roll. Strength is great. Just the angle. Maybe I need to bring flippers up a bit.

Here's a flipper pic from my game. Kinda looks like the left is slightly higher than right. I eyeballed it when I rebuilt the flippers last year. Shoots great. Can hit all shots.

IMG_1687 (resized).jpeg

Thank you! Yeah looks like I def need to raise mine a bit. Sagging some. Thanks again.

Taking a second look at your pic and comparing to mine it does look like yours are drooping somewhat.

I use a small machinest type straight edge and align them using the ball guides as a guide

On my machine the ball gets stopped up by Ted's head in the Flying Rocks plunge. I have it pretty level and about 7 degrees steep, what can I adjust to not have to shake the ball loose every time?