The eyes are connected to a piece that breaks - Marco lists it as "CRANK ARM NYLON WITH RIVETS" there should be 2 little wire pieces that connect it to the eyes (I found mine in the bottom of the cabinet).

You can 3D print it for free or buy a replacement.
3D printable Crank Arm
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3735982
Crank Arm
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-19258
Eye link wire:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7239

I have 2 city start brackets left - Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-start-city-sign-bracket

I've bitten the bullet and ordered a Color DMD. Anybody have any tips or tricks (or cautionary tales) prior to me installing this thing in a few days?

Pretty straight forward install, I recommend either bringing a laptop to your machine, or printing out the instructions for your first install. After the install you can pull the 2 fuses from the DMD high-power section as an extra precaution.

If it is a LCD it will be larger so you have to be careful to follow the instructions for proper alignment. Also make sure not to have any speaker wires in the way near the foam seal around the window of the dmd. I broke the LCD screen one time when I didn't clear out the wires for the speakers. A small zip tie was attached to the wires and cracked the screen when I secured it to the panel. Other than that it is a pretty simple install. Color DMDs are great. You won't be disappointed.

Damn the price has gone up a bit on them since I last purchased one

Yeah, to the point where I don't think they are worth it anymore. Sure colorDMD's look awesome. I installed one in my RS once I lost the bottom and top lines. I just picked up a Flinstones that had one in it. Looks great there too. RS isn't leaving my collection. Flinstones I haven't decided yet. But if Flintstones does leave it will leave with a orange swap from my NGG or Fastbreak.

ColorDMD update…installation was a snap. It looked real good in Black & White. When I did the firmware update, the board would never get to “done.” The Init light would stay on, the screen wouldn’t even light up. After multiple attempts I went through the trouble shooting steps. One of the steps asks you to remove the video cable from the screen, and do a reboot. That’s when I noticed that I had a bad connector. There was no “pull-down” bar. So, they’re sending me a new cable.

On the good side, it did allow me to update the firmware, and finally got the “done” light. I just can’t see the fruits of my labor.

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April's Fools Weekend Sale for Road Show Decals

You can check pics in this thread from 5 years ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/26#post-4189826

$15 instead of $20 and if you are quick enough you get free shipping using this limited code.
4W36-Y5NJ-2ZQN-7E8M

ColoDMD update - success!!!

After having numerous issues, and with the help of the fine folks at ColorDMD, my RS is good to go. They bent over backwards to help. First they sent my a new LVDS cable. Did not help. Then they sent me a new controller board. Bingo!! I’m up and running!!

Which resolution setting do y’all use?

Well I was about to write a post about the mode where you hit both buttons when you see uranium sign. I have heard mention of this mode in the thread but had never seen it. Well I saw it today. The sign was there and then I hit both buttons and nothing happened. The next ball I hit that shot again and the sign was there twice in a row. Never seen it before and now twice in a row? This time I waited until it started doing the animation and hit both buttons. Bingo. It worked. Three million per shot. Next game. Bingo again! What are the odds. Have had this game for just over a year and have never seen it. Then the chance happens three times in four games?

As soon as Bob's comes up I hit the buttons just out of habit (without looking to see if uranium is there).

Don't you have to hit the both buttons three times? Or is it just once?

Yup, 3x.

Construction mania!

Ah ha! Three times. That explains my experience. Thanks all. Great mode.

Progressing further on my Roadshow restoration, confused as to which coils go on the middle left and top left flippers. I have 1 green and 1 yellow
Also any leads on where to get the spring that holds the bulldozer blade to the motor 10-408 spring, all vendors seem to be sold out

The top coil is dressed in a stunning yellow, and looking magnificent in a classic white is the middle flipper.

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looking at mine, Top left is Yellow, Middle left is green.

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Thank you thought middle was green

It SHOULD BE_ listed in the manual.

Hmm, well good to know. Works great. That’s how I bought it.
Next weekends project I guess.

Now to find that elusive spring for the bulldozer, any leads at all? 10-408 is the part number

I picked up a project Roadshow. I'm missing the apron & both shooter gauges. I could probably use Red's face and hair if anyone has that too. Any leads appreciated.

The shooter gauges are attached the apron so you just need the apron. Lots of aprons corroded under the paint. Maybe what happened to yours. I could use a new one as well. I know the decals are available. I haven't seen a full apron yet.

I am having a problem the sound on my Roadshow. It starts fine, but after about 5 games or so the sound effects / voices start dropping out and it's only playing the music. The sound will eventually cut out completely. I tried reseating the ribbon cables, but that doesn't seem to have solved the problem as it's just cut out again.

Try reflowing the pins that those ribbon cables plug into. They’re very small so be careful not to bridge 2 pins. But that cable is where the sound data comes from.

While you are in the backbox, reseat the sound roms. Take a small flathead screwdriver and get behind the roms and pry them a millimeter on each side. Don't remove them from their sockets but just enough to move them. Then press them firmly back in. Who knows, maybe that might help too.

One thing I would try if you have some freeze spray is to hit U20, the AD1851 Digital to Analog Converter (DAC), once the problem is evident and see if the audio comes back. If you don't have any freeze spray, you can use canned air (i.e. for cleaning computer keyboards, etc.) where you invert the can when you spray and it will achieve a very similar effect to using freeze spray.

Does anyone have the skills to recreate the "ROAD BUSTERS" logo from Red and Ted's shirts into a file I can have made into an 8" tall sticker? Looking to make a custom topper.

20230426_062210 (resized).jpg

Does anyone have the skills to make "ROAD BUSTERS" t-shirts? I'm in.

Does anyone have a pic of what the dual diverter assembly is supposed to look like? Manual only shows the below

E6FB740E-E824-48CF-9168-125010271129 (resized).jpeg

ebay.com link: itm

Okay, good news is I have all the parts on that assembly. Next assembly I do not have the parts, anyone have the back panel coil bracket and diverter? I only have the below bits so a full assembly would be great

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Mikonos is working on the artwork for the Road Show apron at the moment.
I have scanned my apron and he is working on it. I guess he can offer the decals shortly.

By the way I reached out to Mikonos because the decal set that I bought online was just too poor to apply...
https://zonaarcade.forumcommunity.net/?t=62777759

Hi everyone, i'm looking for new hair for my little Red.

Do you know where i can find some?

Cheers from Belgium

I wasn't able to secure a new backboard bracket with diverter or a diverter for the flying rocks mech - anyone have either of those?

So, a first for me. I fired up the machine for the first time today and I get a “Test Report” message. Pinball Missing. Sure enough, only three in the trough. I scoured the playfield and there wasn’t a ball stuck anywhere. I checked all of the VUKs, nothing. I looked at the bottom of the cab, zilch. I even gave Red and Ted a dental exam, nada. Flabbergasted, I lowered the playfield and heard that familiar “ball” sound. But could find no missing ball. With the playfield sitting on the slides, I sat in a chair next to the shooter lane. Out of sheer luck, I look to my right and see this. I have no clue how it got there.

IMG_6791 (resized).jpeg

Wouldn’t come close to fitting there on my machine. Might need to have a look at the apron fit maybe.

Hello owners, I'm excited to have joined the club last week! I had a couple questions as I am going through the game.

There is no playfield wear; should I preemptively mylar the fish area / scoop eject?

Should all of the standups have foam behind them? My 3 radio targets and the left loop standup don't have them (pictured below). Wasn't sure if this was by design or not.

PXL_20230516_025827099 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230516_025850269 (resized).jpg

Yes and Yes

Thank you! A couple more that slipped my mind.

I have a Cliffy on the Start City scoop. What about the blast zone hole? Anybody do anything there?

I understand that I should be able to trap the ball with the left mini flipper, but on my game I can't. The ball slips through. Any adjustment tips for this?

Yes! I have the Cliffy Blasting Zone Repair Kit.

Thank you; I was under the impression that this was only to be used when damage already exists. From Cliffy's site:

"The Blasting Zone repair kit is intended ONLY for use on games with wood loss. It will not fit on games without damage, unless you are willing to remove some wood at the back of the post hole"

So, just leave well enough alone with that? Any other thoughts?

Yes, leave it alone. It’s for games where the post nearest the start city scoop has been blasted off from repeated hits combined with very thin wood.

Yep - my post was history!

A more realistic Dynamite mod for your Blasting Zone!
I was asked if I would make a few, then realized how long these things take to print without failures (I got a little carried away with the detail on the wick).
The Sticks are 3d-printed in Carmine Red PETG (a sparkly red) and the Bands & Wicks are both 3d-printed in Jet Black PETG.
I've got a few extras for fellow Road Show owners, so PM me if you'd like one. $45 shipped.
.

IMG_1843 (resized).PNG

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Hi guys, I've owned my Road Show for over a year, and fixed a number of things, including a Ted rebuild. My current issue is my ball goes into the Start City scoop but it doesn't kick out. In testing mode the switch tests out fine, but the selenoid does not. Anyone know the steps to troubleshoot the scoop selenoid? I'm still learning and appreciate your patience.

In test mode,after the switches test is one for coils (solenoids). You can test them all in order, or,one specific. The coin door has to be closed on this test.