I got them. Thank you

Ok, what did I do? I made a home made topper and using alligator clips, connected an 8smd flasher to the flasher under the Blast Zone. Everything seemed to work fine. I soldered it on and added some quick disconnects for easier removal in the future. I played one game and everything seemed ok. Put the translite and glass back on and went to start a second game. I had no coils or flashers. I noticed that the coil fuse (F112) was blown and was a 3A instead of a 7A. Switched it out and now I have coils. The flasher fuse (F111) was the correct 5A but I switched it out anyway. Still no flashers. Reseated J107, J103, J112, J116, J117 and J118 as well as checked the fuses in F115 and F116. Still no flashers. Finally I desoldered my wires from the Blast Zone flasher. Still no flashers and now I'm stuck. What should I look at next?
One thing I notice. When I power it on, all the flippers fire and hold for a few seconds. I don't remember that happening before.
Thanks.

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This may also be related. About a month ago I started having constant resets when pressing both flippers simultaneously. This was fixed (band-aided) by the addition of the No-More-Reset board.

The real fix is likely replacing the power capacitors and ensuring that you ribbon cables + other power connections on the power driver are solid with no cold solder joints and reseating or in some cases repinning connectors.

That's my next try. I'm pretty limited when it comes to board work so after that, I'll probably need a pro to check it out (or send it out).
Here's a video of the flippers at start up.

Excellent! First rule - always reseat everything.
No idea which one was the culprit but after reseating all cables and connectors, we're back wrecking roads with all flashers intact.

And here's a picture of my home made topper wired to the Blast Zone.

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Nice job!

My extra ball light in the spinner lane flashes very dim when it shouldn't be lit.

When I actually light it, it's very bright. Tried changing the LED bulb with no change.

Ideas?

Are you using a non ghosting bulb?

No, I'm not. But all of the inserts have regular LEDs and they're not having issues. Just that one.

That’s the issue then. The matrix has constant trickle voltage due to being wired as a matrix. Not enough to light incandescent but enough for led. Each game is random in where it manifests the ghosting with regular SMD. you might even find that if you change just the lamp for the lock, another bulb may start to ghost.

Good to know, my experience lies in a lot of older SS games which are either fine with LEDs or they all have flicker problems.

Thanks for the insight.

Back in the club I have a super nice road show, said to be HUO and it looks it.

It was playing great, but the shaker motor was insane! I have l-4 ROM new one in the mail where I can turn it down.

At any rate while playing, the shaker was going during multiball start and it it began to go crazy! Then stopped, so turns out Q20 is shorted and fuse F11 blown. I can totally fix that, but...before I do wondering if anyone has thoughts on what caused the transistor to short and fuse blow. Seems like a short of course. Just wondering if someone else had this happen.

I will say I did just install a GI OCD, probably a coincidence .

RED and TED Face and Back of Head Sets Now Available UNDECORATED - original WMS tooling, CNC Cut, ready for you to decorate ...

https://www.planetarypinball.com/PPS-31-2018B
https://www.planetarypinball.com/PPS-31-2017B

Team PPS

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Almost there, just forgot the paint.

Does anyone have a direct comparison of the jaw gears (03-8471). The ones from Marco and Pinball life are the very least different colors. Is the Marco one better enough to warrant double the price??

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8471
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=03-8471

I did search the thread, but I didn't see anyone compare the two directly.

If anyone ever made an alternate translite for this game, I would buy it.

Just fyi.

I’m in the process of building a roadshow from an incomplete parts bucket, quite daunting.
Does anyone know of a place to buy all the parts for each head (in one place) or even a pre-made kit or similar? Being in Australia it’s going to be quite costly buying from multiple sources and I’d like to purchase all new
I would also assume mounting the heads would be the first thing on my newly restored and cleared playfield?

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I recently did a complete restoration of Road Show using one of the reproduction playfields from the fine people at Buthamburg in Germany. While having everything torn down, I observed that both of the Red and Ted head brackets were cracked (I believe they are the same part number). My first inclination was to replace them, only to discover that reproduction parts were not available. I instead had them TIG welded and all is well. Otherwise, I think you will find just about every part for Road Show (wire forms are tough to find) available. I ordered most of my parts from either Planetary Pinball or Marco Specialties. Good luck on the build!

Jeff

My TED's eyes are problematic, they don't close... Opened up his head from above and took both sides off as well.

I noticed the spring was off pushing the latch forward to close them.
I found it but is there a trick to put the spring back without having to unmount everything from under the playfield ?

Guess the larger size of the spring is supposed to go agianst the coil and the smaller one against the little plastic ?

I was able to repair the vertical link without dismounting the head once. It took hours and felt like an impossible magic trick. Trust me you will not save any time.

Anyone need some RS ramps? I have 2 in pretty good shape. Looking for $100 for both. I'll post some pics when I get home if there is any interest.

Does anyone have pictures of ramp-o-matic's clear ramps installed? debating between clear and yellow.

https://rampomatic.com/collections/bally-williams-ramps/products/williams-road-show-right-ramp-03-9127

jazc4 I'd be interested in some pictures of your ramps.

Rebuilding the heads and Red is missing the tip on her ball-popper. Does anyone know the part number of just the bell armature for item 28? Or how far the tip sticks out so I can figure it out?

Also, I bought jaw drive gears from both Pinball Life and Marco, both mesh way too tight with the brass gear on the motor compared to the original, has anyone found a fix to make them operate smoother? Thinking I may have to grind open the mounting points for the motor so I can create a gap

Thank you - Paul

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https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

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If anyone uses pinsound, I am uploading some albums to download and install on your game.

The first album is an oldies/disco/classic rock album which took several weeks to create. It's a huge hit on location, everyone loves it. We have premium Sterns, TBL, some of the best Bally/Williams games etc, but when I ask new people what their favorite game was they almost always say "Road Show" and it's because of the music I added. It's so good that people have been pestering me to share it, so I finally got around to doing that.

Oldies/Disco/Classic Rock: https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/391-road-show-oldies-techno-classic-funk-mix/

The other album I'm working on is hardcore / metal. I'm still working on it and have been for several months now. Some songs fit, others don't, and the levels are all up and down. It's been a pain but it's hilarious to watch a 70 year old woman head banging to Psychosocial by Slipknot as she's in the taxi mode. I'll add it when it's ready.

Very nice...just installed it...always luv some new sounds...

Hello,

Don't know if I am in the right place but I am looking for a playfield plastic which is supposed to be next to Red's mouth.
It's missing from my Roadshow. Didn't notice it for years but now I know it's missing I want to have it. Can't find this single plastic in any shop and since it's a clear one I am thinking of reproducing it myself.

Does anyone have a file / dxf / scan for me ?

Thanks!

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Mine is cracked and repaired, but I can get a scan and add it to the gallery tomorrow.

Hello PTHermes,

That would be great! Thanks very much!

Have nice evening,

Lodewijk

Hi. I think I have some spare plastics. I’ll have to look in the spare part room I have But will be in the weekend. ? thanks

Lodewijk Scan of a few plastics for scale.

RS-Plastics1 (resized).jpg

Hello guys!

The one of previous owners cut a wire as shown on the photo, so the knocker doesn't work at all.
I'm wondering if I should try to connect it and see what happen.
As I'm not really experienced please advice me - is there any risk that it will cause some defect in the machine?

Thank you in advance!

Knocker (resized).jpg

Don't see why you couldn't, but I'd check the resistance on the coil first as well as the transistor that grounds it...as it may have been damaged...and that was the easy fix...to cut the wires...

There's a lot of black on the one side of the coil, or is it just a shadow?

If it's locked on, you may only blow a fuse, but you could fry the related transistor.

This is only a shadow, everything looks normally.

What do you think about unmounting the coil and test it on the table? Of course I need to read about it first (pinside) or watch a movie on YouTube. I need get some knowledge about power (V) etc.

PTHermes

Thanks very much for your effort to scan and share the Road Show plastics!!
I will share the result when the repro plastic is installed in my machine.

It may have been cut because it scared the hell out of some one? My wife jumps like a foot in the air every time one of those knockers go off...it hilarious. Interesting that they didn't just unplug the molex plug though.

My rescue beagle thinks that the knocker is a shotgun going off when she hears it. She takes off like a bat out of hell when it happens.

Exactly, you're absolutely right:

It doesn't matter if the sound of knocker was annoying or something didn't work properly - the simplest way to rid of the knocker was just to unplug the molex!

There might have been other reason, though: maybe somebody wanted to give us a message that there was some problem and wires shouldn't be connected because they cause some problems?

One thing that has always bothered me is the angle of the "Start City" plastic. I am working on a bracket that will square it up with the scoop. Would anyone else be interested in one before I have a fab shop laser them out? Would look like this, with a big 1/2" hole for the wire and #6-32 tapped holes to attach the sign. Material would be 304 stainless steel, .048" thick. I would provide #6 screws to re-attach plastic instead of rivets. I don't know final pricing, but probably $20 + shipping by the time the shop sets up the machine for the bends.

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Interesting. Looking forward to seeing photos of this in your machine. Good idea. Kinda bugs me too.

I just rebuilt both heads and now Red has very loud eyes, can hear them even with the glass on. By loud, I mean you can hear the solenoids buzzing, not clicking or hammering. Does this mean I need new Solenoids, or is there something I should try to adjust?

Double check to make sure everything lined up correctly. I hear clicks on mine but no buzzing. Maybe spring bar was placed wrong or the eyes hooked in wrong?

Is there one or more coils in the head locked on?

I would in for one as that angle bothers me also.