Is the plastic behind the radio station targets clear or does it have a design on it?

Mine is clear

I’m other news, I finally got rid of the horrendous purple lights someone installed around the map and installed cliffys for start city and blast zone repair. I also put on new dozer decals and got rid of the blue flashers that were installed for some reason and replaced with white.

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For those of you that have a decal on your backboard, I need some advice. I haven't looked closely to my backboard yet, but are the flashers removable from the back side or front side of the backboard to allow for a simple install of the decal?

I have applied decals to arcade cabs where I would install over the empty button holes, then make an X with an X-Acto knife and folded the decal inward. Is it pretty much the same for the flashers?

Finally, I've asked the supplier of my decal for advice, but do you suggest a dry or wet installation?

Mine was already there when I got it, so no help there. The flasher domes can be twisted counterclockwise slightly and will be removable sockets can then be removed from the back. You may want to cut the shape of the hole vs an x to avoid wrinkles when you put flasher back in

As said by the previous poster, they are twisted domes - on the pics below you can see how I did mine.

Before:
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After:
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mastercello did you apply the decal dry, or using the wet method? Looks good!

I want the decal to the be perfect and the wet method allows me a second chance. That saved my arse once. Are there any disadvantages to the wet method? Otherwise it's a no brainer for me.

No disadvantage

I have a question about the bridge out lights. On my machine, both of them turn on and off at the appropriate times, but instead of doing the wig wag like they are supposed to, both LEDs stay on when active. This goes for both left and right. Is this likely something on the wig wag boards or elsewhere?

Dry...I also do cabinets decals dry, works fine for me.

My friend did a little airbrush product with the radio.

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Very nice. I have no skills.

Ted looks surprised.

Hi. Does anyone know where to get the backboard sticker (black and yellow). ? Thanks.

Just ordered one, myself. Little Shop Of Games, Florida.

Thanks

If it was one board, i would have suspected the LM555, but both of them ?? What happens if you unplug one of them ?

If I unplug them individually, both of them still have both sides illuminated independently of each other. So even with one side unplugged and off, the other side remains to have both lights stay illumined when it is on.
It looks like there is an LM555CN on both of those boards and it’s purpose seems to match up with controlling the pattern of lights. This game was early production so it’s possible both of them were in a bad batch I guess?
image (resized).jpg

Ran into an issue over the weekend - the bulldozer stopped lifting prior to multi-ball. It has worked flawlessly up until now in the two months I've owned the game.

The sensors detect hits and it goes up/down during the switch test from the menu.

Thoughts?

I'm having the the same issue although randomly. Sometime it goes up for the start of multiball sometimes not. I would love to hear ideas also. All the wiring checks and other tests I did looked fine.

Maybe Ted should talk to his doctor and see what's right for him...

Seriously, I'm a RS newbie and I don't have a clue. Sorry you're having issues. I'm sure somebody here will know a solution!

Hi. I don’t know if you guys know it. The heads are operated by a motor whit a gear and a spring. You should run game in testing mode and check for the gear if there are missing any Teeth or wear out teeth And that spring is properly attached. Good luck.

Having weird issues with the blade (sometimes not rising when needed to, and sometimes moving randomly), I had to replace the idc plug connected to the blade board.
To check if it could be the culprit, go to the contact test menu and try jiggling the wires near the plug. If it register hits, then the plug is faulty.

Has anyone put in the translucent eyes and put lights in the heads for them? What did you install for lights? Thanks.

I've seen it once, but it look very unnatural.
I wouldn't do this, unless it was Stargate.

Really glad to say that I will be joining the Roadshow club very soon. Am picking it up in a couple of weeks. It's my sons favourite game so he will be over the moon.

That look awesome, would he be prepared to do any more? I would be really interested.

Can you clarify which board you are talking about? The eddy board or the board that controls the motor that moves the blade? Care to post of pic? I'm still having issues with the blade not going up after I've locked two balls.

Thanks.

Sounds like the multiball lock assembly have a faulty sensor that fail to detect ball nr two. Put game I'm switch test and put two balls into lock and see if they trigger properly.

Multiball start triggers once two balls are locked. The dozer blade fails to go up most of the time. Sometimes it will. Most of the time it won't. So you can't actually start multiball unless the blade is up.

Someone previously mentioned testing with the shaker off. With the shaker off the dozer went up 6 out of 6 times. With the shaker set to soft the dozer went up 4 out of 6 times. Seems like the shaker is shaking a loose wire connection. The wires from the motor (through ferrite ring) to the board are very short and tight. I wonder if that was a previous repair that I need to remedy.

Good news is that I'm getting close. Hopefully.

Ah yes, i was talking about the opto blade interrupter board (A-19359).
In test mode, contacts were triggered by merely touching the wires... after replacing the plug, problem solved.

The blade motor board (A-15340) is working fine for the time being.

I had an issue with the dozer that is similar to yours. Sometimes the dozer would work fine and other times would not, typically when the shaker motor was extra "shakey." It ended up being a molex connector going to one of the boards under the playfield. Its been a while and I cannot recall exactly which one but it had at least 4 wires on it. One of the wires was starting to lift out of its slot, causing intermittent connection issues. I re punched the wire back into the molex connector and it fixed the problem. I remember also working on Ted's mouth so look at that motor board first.

Can anyone advise on the best quality cabinet decals available for Roadshow. Planetary Pinball don't currently have any cabinet decals for Roadshow.

Avo Pinball in Germany!
Or Xianek from Poland...

Please post a link if you find a place that has good quality sets!

Retrorefurbs.com. UK. , is another good one.

I assume they ship to the US?

eBay has them.

How many y’all have a kahr daughterboard?
Was having some resets thought secondary to summer A/C. Kahr installed and playing great. Chase the ghost? Or enjoy the game and deal with it later if worse problems?

I see both arguments as to why you should or shouldn't use a Kahr daughterboard. On my Road Show, I have repaired, replaced, reflowed, and changed out components to get my 5v up and stable. I am confident that I have done everything reasonable to address and fix the reset issue, but on rare occasions my Road Show will still reset. The only mods I have are a color DMD, and some extra lighting. I chose to use a Kahr board for that machine and it has been a solid player since. I believe Kahr boards are a good choice, as long as other steps have been taken to beef up or repair components related to the 5v and 12v.

I do. I rebuilt my power driver board and was still having issues when I hit both flippers at the same time... not as much as before I rebuilt the board, but it would still happen occasionally. But it hasn't happened again since I installed Rob's board 2 years ago.
Based on my experience I'd totally recommend it!

Any chance someone can send me a photo of the location of the voltage regulator?
Thoughts on changing to the PSU5?
Seems a very simple idea to try.

I do, same exact story as this...

Clarification, I know where the voltage regulator is located. Looking for a photo for orientation for a new PSU5. Is there any soldering involved? Or just remove screws and replace? Do I need to remove solder under the screws? Do I need to remove the board? Or can I remove the solder using my superwick desoldering tape.

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There is soldering involved...I've purchased a few of these 5v regulators..but had them fail rather quickly after install...so I went back to the original...and its still working...now I have used their 12v regulator with no issues for years now...recommend them for sure...

SOLVED = Reseated ribbon cables on audio board

Strange things happening.... Had reset errors on my RS. Swapped MPU board with my JOhnny M and now both seems reset free (at the moment)

However on RS I have a couple of strange things now...
Volume level can be adjusted (volume override on) in the menu but the actual volume doesn't change...

Game is also reacting strangely it's like the switches are activating different sounds as in the past. eg going up the left ramp adds a weekday... When balls exits the game it's saying it visited a city while this didn't happen... and plenty more strange things like jackpot song that suddenly starts...