looks like you're missing your centering flange...

edit, I see it but I think it goes on the bottom of the coil no?

Thank you.

I can’t remember if it was Red or Ted on mine, but one of them had the vertical coil replaced that had built in thinner opening on both sides that wouldn’t allow the centering flange to go in, I’m thinking Red. The thinner opening did exactly what the centering flange does and hasn’t caused problems so I didn’t bother replacing the coil.

I'm in the process of spiffing up my recently purchased RS. Items purchased/fixed so far:

- Missing upper left flipper spring
- Loose Ted face
- $25M Flying Rocks Ted Shot ball not returning
- Broken left outlane plastic
- Soren's ROM (not yet installed)
- Cliffy's ordered
- Tilt bob ordered

Next on my list is the right diverter behind Red's head. A ball hit up the right ramp would oftentimes bounce back down the ramp. For now I disabled the diverter. Upon further investigation I found that the linkage spring had snapped off of the diverter blade. I have ordered a new spring and that should fix the issue. I forgot to take a pic of the mechanism before I started disassembly. If possible, could somebody pull their playfield forward and take a pic of the diverter assembly mounted to the back-board from the top (looking down) I would greatly appreciate it!!

I love working on my machines, but I have a tendency to foul things up. A pic would work wonders!

Hope these help. I had to replace that spring as well. I didn't have the tool to remove the pins so along with the spring I also ordered the complete part. The plunger with spring attached. Was easier to swap than just the spring.

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Perfect - thank you SimplePin !

I looked around for the plunger/spring combo. Marco was out, and I could never get confirmation from two other places that what they had listed was actually in stock. So, I just ordered the spring (3 of them in case I mess it up). I'm going to try my luck at attaching the spring without removing the pin. It was hard to get off, so I can imagine getting a new one on will be harder.

More repairs & mods to come!

A few more oddities discovered, and a few explained. First the issues...

#1 - My flippers are working fine. But, I think I may have an issue with the flipper buttons or board. Starting last night I can't "buy" any souvenirs. Whenever I'm presented with the choice to hit the left flipper for No, or the right flipper for Yes, the right flipper will not accept my choice. When I flip I have no problems. When I enter my initials I have no problem with the right flipper advancing the selection. Go figure.

#2 - I noticed that the top line of the DMD looked a little "wavy". See the pic outlined in blue). And sometimes when there are two lines of text on the display the very top pixel line of each line of text is a little dimmer than the rest (see yellow arrows). Is this a function of the display itself or the display board? I'm planning on getting a Color DMD, but am in no rush. Overall the display looks fine for the most part.

Now the explained.

On boot up I was getting a Test Error stating that my Right Ramp Diverter was disabled. This was correct, as I am waiting on a new linkage spring. But I also got two switch errors. One was the #72 Rt. Ramp Exit Center, and #55 Rt Ramp Exit Left. After consulting the manual, I realized by disabling the Right Ramp diverter, the #72 switch was giving the error as it hadn't been tripped in a while (due to the diverter). I tested it and it works fine. #55 was that a small screw (not sure where it came from) had wedged the switch down. Screw removed, problem solved.

Anyway - any suggestions or advice on the issues above would be appreciated.

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Quick question to all Roadshow owners. Has anyone installed a color LED DMD Display running the Soren chip. Thinking of ordering one but the firmware states L-6 but the Soren chip is rev. 7.

Randy got back to me from ColorDMD Displays and said he was not aware of any issues. Just thought I would double check here first before ordering. His displays are back in stock as well.

Thanks in advance!

I have it and no problems...

I think it is L-6 code, revision 7. Maybe soren can confirm.

pudealee try running the screen test in service mode.

I just put in the LCD in mine and it works fine also

Hey clempo - I Ran the test and nothing really popped out as being an issue. I can live with it until I get my Color DMD. But I am curious if it is the display that is starting to have issues or the controller board.

Try jiggling and resetting your ribbon cable connectors. You need to do this to the ribbon cable from the DMD board to the DMD screen, but also the ribbon cables from the CPU board to the DMD controller board in the backbox. I had weird pixels on my DMD this week and that fixed it for me.

I love to jiggle! I'll give it a shot.

If anyone has a spare flying rocks plastic, please message me. Mine is missing and someone just tossed a broken left sling plastic in there to cover the bulb.

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I have one but I’m in Australia
However will be stateside from August 1 if you want to wait, I can bring it with me

Thank you for confirming! Will let Randy know when I place my order!

Edit - removed pop bumper GI question...

Update - I got my right rear diverter fixed - and new spring did the job. But, in the process I totally torqued my right cabinet slide. I took it off and tried to fix it, but it won't latch. Oh well.

Was watching a youtube stream by Bowen on this game that just popped up in my browser, anyway was watching Bowen do his thing and he came to a point in the game where he says you can get to "construction mania" or something like that...but that it was a certain button press and that he missed it so he never actually played that part of the game...so how do you get to it and what actually is it?

When Bob is lit, you visit Bob and if the sign says "Uranium Ore $3 a Chunk", quickly press both flippers. Construction Mania is a 20 second round where every switch is worth 3 million.

Ugh - two steps forward, one step back.

I've had my Road Show for exactly one week. I've been fixing minor issues like replacing bulbs, replacing sockets, fixing the diverter behind Red, and such. After I replaced a pop-bumper light socket, I fired up a game and realized that an entire column (column 3) is out. These switches are mostly on the right side of the game (two skill shot switches, shooter lane, radio stand-ups, Red Stand Ups, and so on).

I can diagnose and fix small things, but I have no clue where to start on a matter like this. I have a multimeter, but am not really sure what to check. Any help and advice on where to begin and how to fix would be greatly appreciated.

Rule number one if something suddenly stop working and you did some work just before it is to revisit what you did and look for problems like a short, loose cable and so on.

As the pop bumpers are on the right side of the game, same as the missing switch column, it seems probable that you somehow shorted GI to that column and if so you will most probably have to change a specific switch matrix IC in the backbox (forgot exactly which IC it is now) that always goes bad when this happens as it can't handle the high current from the GI.

Lhyrgoif when you say IC would that be like the U20 on the CPU board? That's the chip mentioned on the switch matrix.

Yes

My switch matrix issue with all column 3 switches being out is fixed! It was the U20 chip. Popped a new one in there, and she's good to go!! Thanks for all the help.

Now I'm looking to fix that string of GI in the back box.

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Looks like they’re working.

Are those bulbs that are out in the pic above not GI lights? Or, am I confusing something?

Both the working and non-working bulbs are part of the GI, check connector J120.

J120 is secure on the pins. Should I try to re-seat the wires on J120?

They look like the backbox flashers. If sockets are different color than the other is because those are flashers.

I'm pretty sure there are no flashers in the backbox of roadshow? If you order a LED backbox kit you get 35 'regular GI bulbs'
There are 35 identical sockets on the insert panel, there are 6 wires coming from these, all are connected at J120 (on mine, could also be seated on J121, they are interchangeable.)
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You can start with re-seating the connectors (if you haven't already). Try swapping the connectors at J120 and J121, they might already be swapped, the connector with 6 skinnier wires are backbox GI (the manual show J120 as GI to playfield and J121 as GI to insert panel)
Also take a look at J115.

I'm not aware of any Lawlor Williams/Bally games that have flashers in the backbox. Most have blinkers tho.

Have anybody used spots to brighten up the playfield? If so, where did you place them?

Do you mean extra spots? Ted is supposed to have a spot right in his face. Same for Red.

Yes - extras.

My Red has a spot. My Ted doesn't. I'll have to put one there. Can somebody post a pic of the Red spot? I can see it somewhat on ipdb.org, but would love to one from the group here.

Here is a pic from when I was still working on mine. Teds spotlight attaches to the crossover wireform

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Thanks @jmckune. I suppose I can wire it into any nearby GI light. There was no evidence of a spot being there when got the machine. But it sure needs one there!

It has a connector. If you look carefully at my pic there is an insulated black wire that goes back towards the flying rocks ramp and connects there

I believe mine has been totally removed. No sign of a connector. I think I can mount it in the same place, and possibly run the wires down under the plastic next to the spinner and tap into the GI there.

Sometimes you have to open a little bit the legs in the new bulbs to do proper contact.

I finally got a good game play video, getting to the West Coast on Road Show

GEAR issue.

The teeth on the original gear (white) for Ted sheered off and I ordered a replacement gear (black) through PinballLife. After installing the new gear, Ted's mouth wouldn't work as well. I swapped it with the OEM white gear on Red and found the same problem happening there too.

The gear is too wide, so I purchased another one from PinballLife thinking I had a defective one, but sure enough the second black gear had the same issues. So now I have two brand new black replacement gears from PBL and one mouth on Red that doesn't open and close.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas?

Thanks

With a first gear too wide, i would have tried my luck with another vendor...

Have you conctacted PBL on this ?

I wonder if you can file the gear to make it a better fit.

Yeah the gear on Marco was out of stock so I was forced to try PBL. It's back in stock now so maybe the Marco one works better.

someone makes a metal version of this gear...just not sure who....

Maybe take some sandpaper and sand it on a flat surface for a temporary fix?

Both of them had eye problems, I went with what you said, they are both fixed now. I replaced all 4 .Thank you for posting that.

My dozer blade does not lower completely at the end of multiball. It works correctly in test mode. So far I have cleaned the optics and reflowed the solder. What should I try next?