There is a centering flange that might need replacing. There is a head diagram in this thread. There is also rebuilding procedures for Ted. Red is same but easier to get out. The game is at the age where you should really rebuild them both.

I believe that's how those nyliner's are made...with that split...

Both Ted and Red were completely rebuilt by the previous owner, who was meticulous. That’s why I bought this machine. Honestly, just seems like the plastic pieces are getting caught up on the right side. If it continues I think I’ll put a tiny drop of lithium grease where the plastics connect.

That's called a nyliner bearing, and it does not appear to be broken. It absolutely is needed for smooth operation and to center the eyelids in the frame.
To suggest removing the nyliner as "not needed" is very poor advice, no offense.
The nyliner can be easily replaced if its deformed and causing binding. A drop of dry lube shouldn't be needed by design, but it wont hurt anything either.

Do the plastic pieces bend over time, on the right side connections? Causing more friction?

If they are in correctly there shouldn’t be any friction. The piece looks like it’s a guide or spacer. If I remember correctly, the white piece provides a smooth area for the eyelids to rotate it looked like possibly in your picture that the one side wasn’t pushed into the bracket all the way which may be causing it to squeeze the eyelid.

The centering flange was unavailable for a long period of time globally until about a year ago.

Thanks for the pictures of the red/ ted breakdown. I'm experiencing the same problem with both faces. Eyes closed all the time.

Also, I have already adjusted the eddy sensor boards in front of both faces and red's is already out of adjustment. Is this a constant battle to keep them in adjustment??

is the coil firing in solenoid test? if so then look closely at the mechanicals...they may have been installed incorrectly...you have your centering flange installed? regarding the eddy boards, tangles makes an auto (ie no adjustement needed), but some say you can just replace the potentiometer ...but I don't have a source for it...but I haven' t look to hard either...

That is a very common problem with all three Eddy sensors in this game.

Some replace the potentiometer on the boards and have good results, for some it doesn't really help and some just give up and buy new modern auto adjusting boards and never have to deal with calibration again.

I'm in the last group.
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I can recommend the tangles tech eddy boards but there are other similar products too out there.

At this point I’ve decided the mechanicals on the side of the eyelids are getting stuck. Also, looks like the plastic pieces are a little warped. Currently everything is working fine. Next time they get stuck a drop of lithium grease will be the test.
Regarding the eddy boards, I had the same problem and ordered the self adjusting board from Australia. It was gonna be a few weeks for delivery, so I adjusted perfectly and put a drop of super glue on the adjusting screw (yeah, everyone already told me to use the locktite stuff instead), but it’s been perfect for 3 months. If it goes bad I have the auto adjusting board at home to replace.
Hope this helps.

As pointed by @Lhyrgoif, replacements board are available, but the price is quite steep...
Having the same issue on one the board, i followed another advice : put a drop of glue on the pot knob. It yields pretty good results so far.

I posted this previously.
Occasionally, my roadshow shows the replay at 460,000,000
Despite the fact that it’s set at 500,000,000.
Next level 920,000,000 then 1,380,000.
It’s happening again….

Maybe look here?

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Thank you!!!!!!!

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I’m not sure if this has been covered but I seem to be missing the farthest right line of dots on the Dmd. It doesn’t really bother me but I was wondering if there was a way to shrink the useable area of the Dmd to start on the second from the left and end on the second line on the right?

Thank you in advance

Mine is currently like this as well but goes in and out. I need to pull display and resolder the last connection point and you likely need to as well

That's what i was thinking that I might have to do. I didn't want to just put in a color DMD but I don't think that's going to be happening anytime soon.
I'm sure there's a DMD fixing guide somewhere here on Pinside.

Mine was missing the bottom row and top row of pixels completely. When I turned on the machine, the rest of the DMD took a few minutes to warm up and be visible. The top and bottom never warmed up. I looked at the connections but didn't see anything that needed to be fixed. DMD's don't last forever and at 28 years these are getting pretty old. Swapped mine out for the last LCD that ColorDMD had in stock. If anyone thinks my DMD is repairable I'd be happy to send it to you.

I would love to get a color one in when they become available again.

They really make a difference. It exceeded my expectations.

Colour DMD is worth considering over lcd screen.

Huge fan of the LCD ColorDMD for Roadshow!

I liked the Led look over the Lcd

There's no wrong answer. It's interesting though how divisive it is.

I thought I was a LED ColorDMD fan until I spent time with LCD ColorDMD in Dots XL. That's my favorite by a long short.

I’ll have to check that out.

Just curious, any options to modify sound? Variety? Maybe more Carlene Carter, less taxi driver? There was a radio bit recently that was nice. Maybe from Nashville. Are there settings? Change sound rom?

I use pinsound...very nice on this machine...

I think my color DMDs are set on high resolution. More like cartoon.

Could you put up a picture? I’d like to see it because I’m on the fence still about LCD versus LED.

I realized I misspoke. I have and LED not and LCD. I prefer the LED. It's color but it's still dots. So closer to the original feel.

IMHO you keep the original feel with LCD Dots XL much better than LED. And, as I in an earlier post, I can to this conclusion having spent time with both. Side note: I'm disappointed my Jurassic Park can only have an LED because of cabinet considerations (unless you start modifying the stuff).

Regarding the LED, here's what I disliked about it

1. The pinpoint brightness is hard on my eyes
2. You can occasionally see color separation issues (because there are separate red/greenb/blue LEDs)

From 10 feet away, the LED version looks fantastic. The distance solves the color separation and "pinpoint" brightness issues. However, you don't play from 10 feet away.

Again, above is just IMHO. It's personal preference.

LCD Dots XL below

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Your points make a lot of sense. I'll try the LCD next time. If they ever get them back in stock. I'd like to get one for my NGG.

Not sure about anyone else but I know after installing a color DMD in my IJ I was constantly draining ball because I was transfixed with the new display. "Ooh, Look at the pretty pictures!"

I have a STNG. I think Color LED dmd. Would really look nice in that one. Both their displays are next level experience. It is expensive, yes. If you have more than one say B/W game. Get one, put color DMD in one game for a year and then swap it over to another game for a while. Same enjoyment, and you don’t have a few grand rapped up in color DMDs.

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I'm having an issue with Red's mouth.

Occasionally her mouth would stop working during gameplay, then more so until no it doesn't open at all. In test mode the mouth doesn't open either, but you can hear and see the mouth trying to close itself. If you force the jaw open during the test mode it immediately closes itself, but never opens again.

I've replaced the jaw motor and reflowed the solder connections on the motor controller board, but no changes.

I know it doesn't really affect gameplay but I'd like it to be working correctly nonetheless. Anyone have any ideas.

The gears could be worn and not properly grabbing partway through the movement.

Gears are fine, already checked those.

Fellow RS owners. Having an issue with my machine, just thought I would drop a link here to the thread.

Thanks in advance!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-road-show-two-balls-eject-at-the-start-of-a-game#post-6962285

Just joined the club recently. I didn’t like the fish wear, so, I saw people had gotten a new playfield back in the fall from Buthamburg. I got the last one and it is flawless. It comes from Germany, they have a Bally-Williams license,and have all the original files. He said if there is a demand, he would do more. Thought I would pass it on.

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I ordered a complete plastic set from a trusted reseller here in Europe were I already bought other kits. Set is from Planetary and silkscreened. Problem is that it doesn't look like it's laser cut. No burn marks on the protective film, the edges are rought and not shiny, holes are not round, there is no paper backing and some paint is chipped at the corner. Unhappy I ordered another set from a different reseller but this time I asked for a photo before buying. This set is the quality I am used to. Laser cut, paper backing, perfect. The quality of the print is identical in both kits, very good silkscreened. They must have changed something in the production. Ask for picture before buying

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So my dozer blade randomly doesn't go up when Ted falls asleep for multiball. It goes up and down as usual during gameplay. If I let the ball drain the dozer usually goes up on the next ball and I can start multiball. Thoughts?

Thanks

Just installed a Rottendog MPU board and the game won’t boot. It turns on, beeps once but nothing else. No display, can’t go into test.

Everything is connected properly. I don’t know if the dip switches are correct because there was no manual that came with the board but these are the same dip settings as the original board.

All chips are in the proper orientation as far as I can tell. No blown fuses.

Any thoughts?

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These are the way mine are...and hard to tell in the pic, but is your main processor in correctly?...there is a notch on one corner...can't tell for sure..
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That’s a no go.

While I was playing this random screw popped onto my field. Any thoughts?

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Looks like a screw that holds one of the faces on, but could be a number of things.

You, my friend, are brilliant!
‘‘Twas the side screw on Red’s face.

Joined the club last month and seems the eddy switch thinks a ball is going across it constantly. Adjustment sucks so I ordered the pinbits boards to hopefully fix it once and forget.

Malcolm at tanglestech auto adjusting eddy board from Australia. Takes two weeks shipping. The bomb!