(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 35 hours ago by SimplePin
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There are 4,081 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 82.
#3051 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I did have a difficult time matching the blue paint so thank you for suggesting this color. There is really little difference from a spray can to an airbrush. Of course an airbrush gives you far greater control but a spray can can do the same job. You will just have to be careful with overspray so mask everything you don't want paint. Also, airbrushing with acrylic paints means I can paint indoors without stinking up the place. If you use a spray can, it will smell up the whole house if done indoors (I know, I've done it) so take it to the garage or outdoors.
The xacto knife should only cut the frisket, so be careful not to cut too deep. Here are some other examples that I have done.
Frisket is cut and remove what to paint.
[quoted image]
Paint the area
[quoted image]
Pull off frisket (masking)
[quoted image]
Voila!
[quoted image]
Before
[quoted image]
After[quoted image]

Impressive, nice job!

#3052 2 years ago

Is there a kit available for a power supply rebuild?
I’m still having a noticeable power drop to my upper flippers during multiball. The flippers get less powerful and have a slight lag time between button press and reaction. Only during multiball, it seems.

#3053 2 years ago

I was able to find a fish decal from England, with the below black area, but I can’t find any green decal to cover my wear. Does anyone have some leftover green decal from a full USA that I could use to cover my wear? Or any other suggestions?

5C7D0AA7-C6AB-4E9F-A312-C7B6CE107B05 (resized).jpeg5C7D0AA7-C6AB-4E9F-A312-C7B6CE107B05 (resized).jpegE480EE1A-0051-45E3-8BB1-1648207F7AD0 (resized).pngE480EE1A-0051-45E3-8BB1-1648207F7AD0 (resized).png
#3054 2 years ago

Having some problems with my Road Show, hoping to get pointed in the right direction as to further troubleshooting.
Current Status:
At power on, running the test report gives a message to check switch 35 (Red Stand Up Upper Target), Ground Short Row 2, and Ground short Row 5.
When I go into the switch edge test, Row 2 and 5 show as completely closed. The only switches that respond when in the test are in column 1. When any switch in column one is closed, the test reports the entire row that switch is on as shorted.
If I remove the switch matrix connectors from 207 and 209, the ground faults are no longer reported.
Any Ideas on what I should look at/for next?

#3055 2 years ago

I

Quoted from Zero_Hour:

Having some problems with my Road Show, hoping to get pointed in the right direction as to further troubleshooting.
Current Status:
At powe

did you touch any wires under playfield? It seem 12v went into logic board and blew the IC for the switches.

#3056 2 years ago
Quoted from Santis:

I

did you touch any wires under playfield? It seem 12v went into logic board and blew the IC for the switches.

I don't think I did, but I cant rule it out. Its been months since I've had it on, and wasn't working on it prior to that hiatus.
Would that IC be ULN 2803A? If so, I had a few on hand, and replaced it (thank you socketed chips!). and get the same results.

#3057 2 years ago
Quoted from Zero_Hour:

don't think I did, but I cant rule it out. Its been months since I've had it on, and wasn't working on it prior to that hiatus.
Would that IC be ULN 2803A? If so, I had a few on hand, and replaced it (thank you socketed chips!). and get the same results.

Yes. And usually they are on a socket to easy replacement.

#3058 2 years ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

I feel like my eddy board is toast.
After lots of manipulation I was finally able to get it to register correctly. I placed a drop of super glue onto the base of the screw. Was this a mistake? Figuring a new board will take awhile to receive from Australia?!

I bought a Smart Eddy from the people here in Australia, be it about half a continent away. My mistake was I only bought one thinking the other two were ok. Well, just bought another one that arrived today just put it in and works like the first from them. Tried glueing the pot as well b4 buying. Didn’t work for me. They both just kept moving. The two I replaced are under the blade, front and back. I guess that’s where there is the most force bouncing about.
These boards just work, replace and forget. It’s an old machine and nice to know that small component is done with and bullet proof.
No more messing with those stupid old pots.

#3059 2 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

I bought a Smart Eddy from the people here in Australia, be it about half a continent away. My mistake was I only bought one thinking the other two were ok. Well, just bought another one that arrived today just put it in and works like the first from them. Tried glueing the pot as well b4 buying. Didn’t work for me. They both just kept moving. The two I replaced are under the blade, front and back. I guess that’s where there is the most force bouncing about.
These boards just work, replace and forget. It’s an old machine and nice to know that small component is done with and bullet proof.
No more messing with those stupid old pots.

My mistake was only buying one. It’s been 10 days and it’s still at the airport awaiting international departure…..

#3060 2 years ago

Anyone help me with a switch issues I am having? I believe I just need to adjust the arm on the "Lock Kickout" but I just cannot get it adjusted right.

Shooting in to Bobs Bunker the ball does not come back out. With glass off I can lift the PF a little and it will kick it out. Also with ball in during switch test I can see the same as the below.

Any thoughts?

RS1 (resized).jpgRS1 (resized).jpg
#3061 2 years ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Anyone help me with a switch issues I am having? I believe I just need to adjust the arm on the "Lock Kickout" but I just cannot get it adjusted right.

Hi. Look you have to bend the switch lever (adjust it ) when the ball sit there the switch lever or actuator is no clicking the switch. So when you lift the PF it does read. I use a needle nose pliers.

#3062 2 years ago

Yeah been trying too hard to get it bent the right way…

Quoted from Santis:

Hi. Look you have to bend the switch lever (adjust it ) when the ball sit there the switch lever or actuator is no clicking the switch. So when you lift the PF it does read. I use a needle nose pliers.

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#3063 2 years ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Yeah been trying too hard to get it bent the right way…

you can buy the switch may Marco or Pinball life. Is like 10 bucks.

#3064 2 years ago

I just joined the club yesterday! I have fond memories of playing Roadshow at a diner near me back in the early 2000s, but I never anticipated owning one. However, a friend reached out to me this week to tell me her husband had a pinball machine cluttering his garage and he wanted to get rid of it. It was filthy and had stopped working. Apparently it started life at a biker bar, then wound up in a warehouse where it languished for at least a decade. Her husband's father bought the warehouse and gave him the machine. He played it until it died, then eventually decided to unload it. He had nothing in it and just wanted it gone; I hesitate to say what I paid for it, but suffice it to say I got a hell of a deal. It's going to take a lot of manhours to get it working again, but it's cleaning up very nice so far, as you can see in these early before and after pics. I'm sure I'll be hitting up this thread for advice.5FE05413-D518-4BCA-937C-FE255E2D09BA (resized).jpeg5FE05413-D518-4BCA-937C-FE255E2D09BA (resized).jpeg5FE05413-D518-4BCA-937C-FE255E2D09BA (resized).jpeg5FE05413-D518-4BCA-937C-FE255E2D09BA (resized).jpeg

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#3065 2 years ago
Quoted from BRW84:

I just joined the club yesterday! I have fond memories of playing Roadshow at a diner near me back in the early 2000s, but I never anticipated owning one. However, a friend reached out to me this week to tell me her husband had a pinball machine cluttering his garage and he wanted to get rid of it. It was filthy and had stopped working. Apparently it started life at a biker bar, then wound up in a warehouse where it languished for at least a decade. Her husband's father bought the warehouse and gave him the machine. He played it until it died, then eventually decided to unload it. He had nothing in it and just wanted it gone; I hesitate to say what I paid for it, but suffice it to say I got a hell of a deal. It's going to take a lot of manhours to get it working again, but it's cleaning up very nice so far, as you can see in these early before and after pics. I'm sure I'll be hitting up this thread for advice.[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Playfield looks decent. Minimal fish wear. Congrats on what looks like the deal of a lifetime.

#3066 2 years ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

Playfield looks decent. Minimal fish wear. Congrats on what looks like the deal of a lifetime.

+1

Can't beat a great price.

#3067 2 years ago

I have never seen a RoadShow apron NOT show rust and black paint chiping off.

#3068 2 years ago

What is the correct size of the rubber on the post below the mini flipper and the post under the flying rocks plastic? The discussion from a few years ago didn't give a specific answer.

#3069 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have never seen a RoadShow apron NOT show rust and black paint chiping off.

I was worried about my future RS after reading this thread. Once it arrived I was relieved. My apron has minor bubbling but no visible rust or ruptured bubbles. Nothing I need to worry about for now. Maybe if those bubbles ever get worse or break open. Fortunately the apron decals are available.

IMG_0930 (resized).jpegIMG_0930 (resized).jpeg
#3070 2 years ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

I was worried about my future RS after reading this thread. Once it arrived I was relieved. My apron has minor bubbling but no visible rust or ruptured bubbles. Nothing I need to worry about for now. Maybe if those bubbles ever get worse or break open. Fortunately the apron decals are available.[quoted image]

I had my apron powercoated for that reason - you can buy the decals and never have to worry

#3071 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have never seen a RoadShow apron NOT show rust and black paint chiping off.

Well I can’t verify this is the original one, but mine looks very very good.

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#3072 2 years ago

This thing is cleaning up nicely! I'm waiting on a new battery holder from Marco (the batteries had corroded horribly, but thankfully they were on a stand-off board). However, I tried starting a game tonight, and to my amazement, it actually sort of works! The shooter lane kickout and Bob's Bunker kickout aren't 100% and I'm sure there's a bunch of other stuff I'll find, but this may not be as rough of a job as I initially thought.

37CBB018-3FA1-4037-90B1-BFCE9D5E5D40 (resized).jpeg37CBB018-3FA1-4037-90B1-BFCE9D5E5D40 (resized).jpeg
#3073 2 years ago

I’m going to need some guidance from a patient pinsider. I’m having some very bizarre electrical issues and I have no idea where to start……
1) will be a four player game, then midway it turns into a one player game
2) middle of ball 2 or ball 3 it will turn into ball 1
3) the replay is set at factory setting of 500,000,000 , yet it displays at 570,000,000.
I’m at a total loss and will appreciate any help.

#3074 2 years ago

I just read the owners manual in detail. My cpu LED indicators are all correct. I tried my best to run through all the tests. The one thing that’s totally perplexing is my replay is absolutely set at 500,000,000
But the dmd display reads at 570,000,000 during the game‍♂️‍♂️

#3075 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have never seen a RoadShow apron NOT show rust and black paint chiping off.

I own 3 Roadshows and 2 of them were rusty (missng one thrd of pant) and one is in normal shape (originally).

20220326_083625_HDR.jpg20220326_083625_HDR.jpg20220326_083700_HDR.jpg20220326_083700_HDR.jpg
#3076 2 years ago
Quoted from BRW84:

This thing is cleaning up nicely! I'm waiting on a new battery holder from Marco (the batteries had corroded horribly, but thankfully they were on a stand-off board). However, I tried starting a game tonight, and to my amazement, it actually sort of works! The shooter lane kickout and Bob's Bunker kickout aren't 100% and I'm sure there's a bunch of other stuff I'll find, but this may not be as rough of a job as I initially thought.
[quoted image]

OCD kicked in, your pop bumper caps are in the wrong position, they all need to move 1 spot clockwise. They match up with the skirt colors. I thought mine was gonna be bad to get going. Worst part is getting to Ted because every ramp has to come off to do it easily.

#3077 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

OCD kicked in, your pop bumper caps are in the wrong position, they all need to move 1 spot clockwise. They match up with the skirt colors. I thought mine was gonna be bad to get going. Worst part is getting to Ted because every ramp has to come off to do it easily.

Good eye, thanks!

#3078 2 years ago

As per pinwiki, I reseated some connectors, pushed on some RAM on the cpu, and reset the machine. It’s now working well. I’ve read about the kahr daughter board. Is that money well spent?

#3079 2 years ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

As per pinwiki, I reseated some connectors, pushed on some RAM on the cpu, and reset the machine. It’s now working well. I’ve read about the kahr daughter board. Is that money well spent?

It was for me to stop the resets I was having. I eventually got around to replacing the caps on my power supply board which fixed the root of the problem.

#3080 2 years ago

Finally back into its cabinet. Threw the balls in and everything works! It's been apart far too long.

20220326_194330 (resized).jpg20220326_194330 (resized).jpg
#3081 2 years ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

It was for me to stop the resets I was having. I eventually got around to replacing the caps on my power supply board which fixed the root of the problem.

Here is my question. If the kahr daughterboard helps redirect power, if I don’t care about the cost of the kahr, does it make sense to buy a kahr in attempt to avoid the caps going bad on the power supply board. Everyone seems to support the kahr as a bandaid, but what about using it for prevention?

#3082 2 years ago

Hello,

I have a weird issue. Sometimes during the game, the sound completely cuts off. When the ball drains the sound comes back again.
Did someone have the same issue?

Added 23 months ago:

solved

#3083 2 years ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

What is the correct size of the rubber on the post below the mini flipper and the post under the flying rocks plastic? The discussion from a few years ago didn't give a specific answer.

found it. I didn't know there was a separate parts list catalog.

#3084 2 years ago

Hi - I bought a new switch and installed with the same issue and bent it up.

Do you (or anyone) out there know the sequence of events that happen when you get a ball in to Bob's Bunker?

3 Switches Lock 1, Lock 2 (which are on top of eachother) and then kickout.

There is a plastic diverter the ball sits on near Lock switch that must open up to drop to the kickout.

Without a ball locked - what would the above switches do when the ball goes in the hole? Looks like my ball isnt making it to the kickout switch at all.

Thanks!

Quoted from Santis:

Hi. Look you have to bend the switch lever (adjust it ) when the ball sit there the switch lever or actuator is no clicking the switch. So when you lift the PF it does read. I use a needle nose pliers.

#3085 2 years ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

found it. I didn't know there was a separate parts list catalog.

I had to grind down the one on the small post on a recent ring kit order, in order to keep the ball from getting stuck in the inlane.

#3086 2 years ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Hi - I bought a new switch and installed with the same issue and bent it up.

hi. Let me see if I have time today later to look into it and let you know.

#3087 2 years ago

Thank you - I think I figured it out. I had 2 switches that were not working correctly - I believe that lockup 1 switch activates and allows the ball to drop through the plastic shaft. Then the kickout switch kicks it out. I had to replace my kickout switch and adjust the bottom switch closest to the plastic shaft which I Beleive is lockout 1.

What was throwing me off was having multiple switch issues instead of 1 and not knowing what activated that shaft when the ball goes in the bunker.

Quoted from Santis:

hi. Let me see if I have time today later to look into it and let you know.

#3088 2 years ago
Quoted from bush3262:

I had to grind down the one on the small post on a recent ring kit order, in order to keep the ball from getting stuck in the inlane.

I"m having the stuck ball below the mini flipper problem also. Temporary fix has been a having a rubber band around the posts and rubbers.

#3089 2 years ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

I"m having the stuck ball below the mini flipper problem also. Temporary fix has been a having a rubber band around the posts and rubbers.

Take a picture of that area. I’d be willing to bet the rubbers are incorrect

#3090 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Take a picture of that area. I’d be willing to bet the rubbers are incorrect

lol. new rubber. I'm a Oscar Madison. Getting the flipper rubber on is a $%$#.

P1010004 (resized).JPGP1010004 (resized).JPGP1010006 (resized).JPGP1010006 (resized).JPG
#3091 2 years ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

lol. new rubber. I'm a Oscar Madison. Getting the flipper rubber on is a $%$#.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those two posts below have the incorrect rubber on. It’s supposed to look like this.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#3092 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Those two posts below have the incorrect rubber on. It’s supposed to look like this.
[quoted image]

Thanks
I replaced the rubbers with what sizes was already on the game. At least my brain worked out what should be there using the rubber band.

#3093 1 year ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

Thanks
I replaced the rubbers with what sizes was already on the game. At least my brain worked out what should be there using the rubber band.

Ha must be a common mistake. I had a Roadshow that was separate from the one pictured and it was put out for public play, after a couple of hours someone informed me of a stuck ball and I saw it sitting in that same spot with the same incorrect rubber placement. Really import to visualize ball paths when placing rubber to verify what was there before was correct or not. In this case, as you found out, the 4 smaller rings essentially created a hole for a ball to wedge into in a spot that should have been a bouncy guide! Glad that’s what it was though as it’s an easy fix!

#3094 1 year ago

Mine came with wrong rubbers too!

#3095 1 year ago

Mine has the same issue with the ball getting stuck. If anyone knows the size of those singles let use know. Seems like more than a few have the same setup

#3096 1 year ago

Well nevermind, I found two 3/4" rubber bands in a Marco bag in the coin box. They fit perfect! Guess previous owner installed the wrong bands (or maybe it was me)

#3097 1 year ago

I am needing the Rh. under playfield Bracket for the Jaw Assy. The part # 01-13260-R I would buy the whole Assy too. If anyone has one or know where I might find one let me know Thanks Mark

1 week later
#3098 1 year ago

Santa Cruz beach boardwalk.
Think someone had a Road Show?

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#3099 1 year ago

I got my roadshow about 6 weeks ago. I thought it had the chip upgrade for cities. See below. Yet, every game starts in New York with smash cabs, then Miami ramps then New Orleans Mardi gras. Can someone please explain the upgrade regarding city rotations?

4F1D7896-1B9E-4222-98FA-066F52798D49 (resized).jpeg4F1D7896-1B9E-4222-98FA-066F52798D49 (resized).jpeg52D799A6-3EE6-4CE8-B0BA-A2DC06EFD815 (resized).jpeg52D799A6-3EE6-4CE8-B0BA-A2DC06EFD815 (resized).jpeg
#3100 1 year ago

There's a setting in the menu that you have to make whether you want to go through the cities normally or randomly. Not sure which one it is.

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