Can someone please send a photo of their diverter angle? When mine lifts up the ball often still goes down the wire ramp. It looks like there is a bend at the end of the diverter bar.

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No bend on mine, it shouldn't matter as long as it lifts up high enough when it's in the non diverting position.
It could also just be that the ball goes too slow and doesn't have enough momentum.

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Thanks for taking your time to photo. I clearly have a slight bend at the end, and yes I agree without enough momentum it doesn’t power through!

Yes, a plastic mini-post goes in that hole! They are VERY commonly added in areas like this on just about EVERY pin ever built!! They are to prevent balls getting stuck there! These are added by the designers during development when they test the games and find areas where balls can get stuck, usually between ramps and plastics. Rule of thumb... if there's a hole in a plastic that doesn't have a corresponding post stud going through it, put a mini-post in there!!

Is ‘safety blue’ still the recommended color for legs?

Where do I adjust to reduce the shaker motor intensity?

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As far I know that’s in the programming.

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There is only 3 settings. Normal, soft ,off.

I’ve read about removing or repositioning the weights. Even on soft setting it’s too much upstairs in my house.

Can someone explain the logic of the wig wag circuits? On mine, both bridge out lights turn on and off at the correct time but instead of alternating as expected, both sides stay illuminated the entire time the lamps are active

I will never move the weigh from factory position. That’s my personal opinion.

I started by just wanting to vacuum the cabinet of my new purchase. But now it's turning into a complete refresh. Why do I do this?

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I used BIN and then just gray primer. I thought it felt the right color for a construction theme.

To cancel the vibration completely you have to put the weights in opposite direction (180 degrees apart). From there just move one weight a little bit and check if you like the intensity

Do I use an Allen wrench to loosen? There appears to be a screw in the top and side of the weight. Loosen both?

The LEDs are driven by the "clock" output (square wave) of a 555 timer chip (U1), which is itself turned on when its Row/Col is activated (like the other lamps).

One of the lamps is connected to a PNP transistor, the other to an NPN, with the clock output from the 555 going to the base of each. So, only one of the LEDs is "on" depending whether the clock is high or low.

That said, it's not obvious to me what's causing the issue you're seeing...does this happen on both wig wag boards?

Got it!
Thank you!

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Bulldozer sensor is not working at all. I adjusted the eddy sensor. Still nothing. I have limited electrical skills. I know the sensor and eddy board. Any simple help greatly appreciated!

Did some airbrushing on the faded bits. It's not perfect but I think it looks better.

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Just masked off and sprayed?

I put some frisket paper down and cut out the parts I wanted to paint with an xacto knife. Then I just sprayed with translucent colors to closely match the original. Clear red, yellow, and green. The black and white I did by hand.

It looks really good! Not sure if you did on purpose but on the front behind the road show sign those mountains were actually a dark blue/grey originally. Looks good either way though!

Any advice on how to get an auto eddy board?

Buy it. They are on Marco and likely elsewhere

Edit just looked. Can’t find the auto one but pinball life has new ones. I haven’t had any problems with the originals so I wouldn’t worry about getting the auto ones

Marcos is out of stock.
Are all the new eddy boards auto adjusting?
The only I can find are in Australia and UK.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html

It is not auto adjusting but should be more reliable than the original if yours are giving you serious problems staying in adjustment

Thanks!
That’s probably my best option,
Outside of ordering from tangles in Australia.

I've got Tangles boards for my ToM outlanes and they work great. If you want auto adjusting boards then order from him with confidence.

I feel like my eddy board is toast.
After lots of manipulation I was finally able to get it to register correctly. I placed a drop of super glue onto the base of the screw. Was this a mistake? Figuring a new board will take awhile to receive from Australia?!

I would have used blue loctite instead of super glue; just hope you never have to adjust it again or might be tricky.

I'm not sure if the problem is the potentiometer moving over time or other components on the board failing that are the root problem and adjusting the pot is the (temporary) solution?!

I've read about people replacing the pot with another one with more turns and sometimes it seem to work, sometimes not.

I really appreciate your feedback. Since I’m new at this I don’t have a lot of experience. The pot screw is really really loose and easy to move. Is that normal? That’s why I opted for super glue. Also, I figure I’ll probably get a replacement board. So, just hoping for a fix for now.

My Red has become a ventriloquist.

When the game first boots up and you start a game the jaw moves fine but stops moving partway through the game.

In test close works but not open. Any ideas?

I'm onto the sides of the cabinet to repaint all the fade, and am just miffed by all the holes someone had put screws into. I mean, why the hell would anyone do such a thing? There are 16 holes on one side. Grrr.

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For my understanding, why paint vs replacing the entire decal?

About $250 reasons...

Can you please share detailed photos of the process for me to learn?

And also is way better painted that the decals.

If it works fine at first and then stops working, you likely need a new motor.

Crap! In test mode you can see the mouth trying to close, even when it's already closed. It just won't open.

Another thing to add to my next Marco order I guess.

At least they are cheap! Less than $50

Have you tried moving the mouth under the pf by hand. Turning the gears by hand could show worn gears or eliminate that.

Yes I have. During test mode I can open the mouth manually and then it will close automatically as part of the test, but won't reopen. Otherwise I can move the jaw freely with no binding or anything like that.

When it’s working at first, do the movements seem slow and spongey or very fast and snappy? Both Red and Ted on my game have a very snappy open close motion on their mouths when taking.

Very snappy as you'd expect, but at some random point it just stops.

Ok, first you will need some stuff.

Airbrush
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Some Frisket paper (instead I use cheap Walmart shelf liner which is better and much cheaper)
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Some Tamiya translucent paint (clear red, clear orange, clear yellow, clear green)
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Apply the shelf liner as a masking over the area to be painted. Cut out the areas you want to paint with a #11 exacto knife. Peel it off.
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Paint the desired color.
Enjoy your handy work!
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Your making this look so easy ! Looking to do this on my FH .

First off, thank you so very very much!
By cutting with the exacto knife, I’m assuming you don’t go too deep?
I’m out of town. Can’t send a photo now. My major issue is the blue around the legs. Otherwise, it’s ok. I have read that people use rust oleum safety blue. Photo attached. Would I be a fool to try with this spray paint? I know that the airbrush is much more fine.

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I did have a difficult time matching the blue paint so thank you for suggesting this color. There is really little difference from a spray can to an airbrush. Of course an airbrush gives you far greater control but a spray can can do the same job. You will just have to be careful with overspray so mask everything you don't want paint. Also, airbrushing with acrylic paints means I can paint indoors without stinking up the place. If you use a spray can, it will smell up the whole house if done indoors (I know, I've done it) so take it to the garage or outdoors.

The xacto knife should only cut the frisket, so be careful not to cut too deep. Here are some other examples that I have done.
Frisket is cut and remove what to paint.
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Paint the area
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Pull off frisket (masking)
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Voila!
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Before
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After

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