(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

8 years ago


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  • 3,195 posts
  • 404 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by madamyates
  • Topic is favorited by 157 Pinsiders

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There are 3,195 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 64.
#2901 4 months ago
Quoted from shirkle:

A couple questions and concerns with my RS:
How common are left ramp airballs? Some of my clean ramp shots jump up and hit the plastic above the ramp.

Very common, there should be a plastic over the ramp to stop that from happening.

#2902 4 months ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Very common, there should be a plastic over the ramp to stop that from happening.

The ball gets stuck between the ramp and the bracket for the ramp switch fairly often too!

#2903 4 months ago
Quoted from shirkle:

A couple questions and concerns with my RS:
How common are left ramp airballs? Some of my clean ramp shots jump up and hit the plastic above the ramp.
I’ve noticed what seems to be a power sag/drop during multiball on my left upper flipper and mini flipper. When not in multi-ball, both seem to function properly, although sometimes a little weak. During multiball, they seem to have a very noticeable lag to them (like a delay between my button press and the flippers responding) which makes jackpot shots impossible on Red. Any ideas?

Left ramp airballs are a constant, you need to make a ramp cover to end that. Myself and others have done that, search this thread for images & details.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/20#post-3847732

Also sounds like its time to rebuild your power supply board to resolve your flipper issues.

#2904 4 months ago

TheOnlyest
allsportdvd
DuffysArcade
CaptainCaverne

Thank you for the advice. I ordered the Marco ones and they showed up not looking the best. The yellow portion has black streaks/lines almost like the black ink bled into the yellow as they printed. The yellow is a much brighter color then the original as well. I’ll reach out to Marco and see what they say.

In the mean time im still on a hunt.

AE0DDBDE-4110-4875-9964-507F3BA1F796 (resized).jpegD0A0AE88-8D34-40BD-808D-334E9DF53D9D (resized).jpeg
#2906 4 months ago
Quoted from Nez02:

TheOnlyest
allsportdvd
DuffysArcade
CaptainCaverne
Thank you for the advice. I ordered the Marco ones and they showed up not looking the best. The yellow portion has black streaks/lines almost like the black ink bled into the yellow as they printed. The yellow is a much brighter color then the original as well. I’ll reach out to Marco and see what they say.
In the mean time im still on a hunt.
[quoted image][quoted image]

2 different processes:
The original is screen printed, with vivid and deep colors.
The new one is a digital print.
Day and night, they can't reproduce the good old process.

#2907 4 months ago

Working on ripping this thing apart to get to Ted. I’m getting close to the part where I’m not sure what to do next. Obviously that other ramp is gonna have to come out. Are the bulldozer arms attached to the Ted bracket? If so I’m not sure how I’m gonna get Ted out as it doesn’t look like they unscrew from what I can see so far and they also won’t fit below the playfield.

444B7D63-137D-401F-9784-AC6610ACA4F1 (resized).jpegD6FEA5F8-E16F-4211-9BD6-F063C3BA2759 (resized).jpeg
#2908 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Working on ripping this thing apart to get to Ted. I’m getting close to the part where I’m not sure what to do next. Obviously that other ramp is gonna have to come out. Are the bulldozer arms attached to the Ted bracket? If so I’m not sure how I’m gonna get Ted out as it doesn’t look like they unscrew from what I can see so far and they also won’t fit below the playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yup, big pain to pull out Ted. Have to get in there with a 1/4 open wrench and undo both sides of the bulldozer before it will slide out from below. It's tight but you can do it without removing the ramps. Much easier without them.

#2909 4 months ago

Post #928 has “How to remove Ted” it’s all there.

#2910 4 months ago

Ted has been successfully extracted and the entire playfield cleaned. Ready for the rebuild of the heads and new rubber throughout. This game will look good when finished

596F9C3F-801F-4941-B9B4-D036FCD9A131 (resized).jpeg
#2911 4 months ago

Hi all,

New Roadshow owner here, first time owning a pin. Can someone tell me where the clear plastic piece below is located on the playfield? I keep looking but can't seem to find where it goes?

Thanks,
Nick

IMG_4488 (resized).jpg
#2912 4 months ago
Quoted from yemtrader:

Hi all,
New Roadshow owner here, first time owning a pin. Can someone tell me where the clear plastic piece below is located on the playfield? I keep looking but can't seem to find where it goes?
Thanks,
Nick
[quoted image]

Looks like the piece that sits on top of Teds bulldozer

#2913 4 months ago

Thanks I really appreciate the reply. My bulldozer doesn't have any screw holes to attach it so I'm guessing maybe my bulldozer is a reproduction or the piece was never attached to the original bulldozer?

#2914 4 months ago
Quoted from yemtrader:

Thanks I really appreciate the reply. My bulldozer doesn't have any screw holes to attach it so I'm guessing maybe my bulldozer is a reproduction or the piece was never attached to the original bulldozer?

Not sure, my game is apart right now getting fixed up but this is what it looks like

image (resized).jpg
#2915 4 months ago

Just checked various pics and I've discovered that two versions of the blade exists :

The one with a larger top, which doesn't need a plastic, and therefore no screw holes.
I'm guessing that yours is like this, yemtrader ?

blade_rs (resized).jpg

The second with a thinner top, just like Jmckune's, with screw holes and plastic attached.
I have the second one, with no less than 4 screw holes, because the plastic was broken in three...

#2916 4 months ago

Got wondering the other day if my Funhouse had attract mode sounds. Figured it would be the perfect game to have Rudy chirping you to come over and play. Turns out there is no attract mode sounds on the game unfortunately.

So was wondering if Road Show has this? Are there attract mode sounds where Red or Ted open their eyes and talk to you, telling you to come play?

#2917 4 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

So was wondering if Road Show has this? Are there attract mode sounds where Red or Ted open their eyes and talk to you, telling you to come play?

no....only sounds effects when you hit the flipper buttons

#2918 4 months ago

Well Red developed a lazy eye tonight while playing. I removed her hat, face and back of her head and realized one of the crank arm rivets was broken off and the eye link wire was missing. I located the wire and was able to order the crank arm from Marcos. This will be the first time removing either Red or Ted. If anyone has any tips or advise I'd be happy to hear it.

Thanks

Also I couldn't resist the obligatory selfie! Nightmare fuel.

IMG_0770 (resized).jpeg
#2919 4 months ago
Quoted from CaptainCaverne:

Just checked various pics and I've discovered that two versions of the blade exists :
The one with a larger top, which doesn't need a plastic, and therefore no screw holes.
I'm guessing that yours is like this, yemtrader ?
[quoted image]
The second with a thinner top, just like Jmckune's, with screw holes and plastic attached.
I have the second one, with no less than 4 screw holes, because the plastic was broken in three...

Yes I have the larger version that doesn’t need a plastic. Thanks for the research!!

#2920 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Either you lifted the traces or you did indeed install them backwards. Use a DMM to determine if there is power at the opto pads on the board
For what it’s worth, my dozer down opto is not working and the dozer keeps running trying to find the down position to no avail until the ball goes into play

I removed them and reinstalled them backwards. The bulldozer works now perfectly.

#2921 4 months ago

Hey guys, an issue just popped up on my RS. Sometimes when I activate the left flippers, it scores dozer hits. For example I can advance the days of the week or smash cabs in NY by pressing the left flipper button. Any idea where to start troubleshooting this one? Fliptronics board? Thanks!

#2922 4 months ago
Quoted from SFBP36:

Hey guys, an issue just popped up on my RS. Sometimes when I activate the left flippers, it scores dozer hits. For example I can advance the days of the week or smash cabs in NY by pressing the left flipper button. Any idea where to start troubleshooting this one? Fliptronics board? Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eddy-board-adjustment

#2923 4 months ago
Quoted from SFBP36:

Hey guys, an issue just popped up on my RS. Sometimes when I activate the left flippers, it scores dozer hits. For example I can advance the days of the week or smash cabs in NY by pressing the left flipper button. Any idea where to start troubleshooting this one? Fliptronics board? Thanks!

The eddy board under the playfield needs adjusting. There is a potentiometer on the board in front of the dozer under the playfield. Lift the playfield and take a small screwdriver and adjust the pot. Take a ball in your hand and run it up to the dozer. When the eddy board detects the ball, the led on the eddy board should light up. Make small adjustments so that the light only comes on when the ball is over the sensor. Mine is super sensitive so it may take a few adjustments to get it perfect.

Here is a video showing how to adjust it. 4:18 to get right to it.

#2924 4 months ago

Great, thank you. I’ve adjusted the eddy in the past, didn’t realize that would also cause the flipper button to activate it. Thanks!

#2925 4 months ago
Quoted from SFBP36:

Great, thank you. I’ve adjusted the eddy in the past, didn’t realize that would also cause the flipper button to activate it. Thanks!

Vibration.

#2926 4 months ago

Having a multi ball issue & hopefully you guys can help me out. For a while now sometimes when a ball is shot back into the lock (during the Ted sleeping phase) the game doesn't recognize the additional ball in the lock. It seems to specifically happen when I shoot a ball into the lock, it kicks it out, and I shoot it back in. Then it gets confused...I have to wait for the ball search to kick it out. But it is also an intermittent problem.

Then yesterday also during the Ted asleep mode, the ball kicked out of the lock and I immediately drained...but the game sat there. Again, I had to wait for ball search to kick out another ball from the ball lock.

I've already adjusted and tested all 3 lock switches in the ball lock, and I've cleaned & tested the optos in the trough. In switch test everything appears to work fine.

Complex issue. Maybe a dodgy switch in the lock? Should I just replace lockup switches #1 &2?

#2927 4 months ago

Hi,
I like to share with you this fix. My Red eye crank was badly worn in one direction, she just loves to look at Ted! I could have just bought a new crank but sometimes repro are bad quality and I like to repair things. I 3D modeled and printed an exact replica of the crank in PLA but for some reason, after a bit of games, the crank always bind up and not center again. I tried everything (new spring bar, new eyelids), seems like PLA has too much friction once it get warm. So I created this. It is just a simple insert that can be press fitted in the original crank. You just need to grind down the prongs and push this in. Have put some good games on it and it still works perfectly. Happy to share with you my STL
Here is the link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5255349/files

IMG_20220206_182101 (resized).jpg
#2928 4 months ago
Quoted from Piso:

Hi,
I like to share with you this fix. My Red eye crank was badly worn in one direction, she just loves to look at Ted! I could have just bought a new crank but sometimes repro are bad quality and I like to repair things. I 3D modeled and printed an exact replica of the crank in PLA but for some reason, after a bit of games, the crank always bind up and not center again. I tried everything (new spring bar, new eyelids), seems like PLA has too much friction once it get warm. So I created this. It is just a simple insert that can be press fitted in the original crank. You just need to grind down the prongs and push this in. Have put some good games on it and it still works perfectly. Happy to share with you my STL
Here is the link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5255349/files
[quoted image]

This is cool. I just had to order the part myself from Marcos. One of the metal eyelets that the link wire connects to broke off. I haven't removed the existing crank yet but I'm curious to compare it the "new' one and yours. Thanks for sharing.

#2929 4 months ago

Piso if you printed your original part in ABS it would probably be more structurally sound, this newer part too. I know fewer printers can print in ABS because you need an enclosed thermally stable printer, but you shouldn't use PLA for anything structural. Could you post the stl for the original piece you did as well? I will be building a VORON 2.4 R2 printer over the next few months and could print those out using ABS.

Thanks.

#2930 4 months ago

Anyone have any ideas or good place for me to look on this issue? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-dozer-issue-1

#2931 4 months ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Having a multi ball issue & hopefully you guys

Anyone have any ideas or good place for me to look on this issue? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-dozer-issue-1

The good news is you can get it to register when moving the playfield. That may tell you that there may be a wire loose or broken somewhere. I would first start at the connector at the opto board and trace all the way back to the back box if you have to. Use a multimeter and switch test mode to help locate where the break might be. Go slow and keep things simple. And yes, repair that mess of wires with a solder iron and shrink tubing.

#2932 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Anyone have any ideas or good place for me to look on this issue? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-dozer-issue-1

As you have pointed out in your thread, checking/clearing the wire mess you found is the first step. If the issue is still there, check the wiring (again) and the connectors, from the power driver board all the way to the opto board.

For what its worth, I had the following issue with the blade : randomly during plays, the blade was moving up and down, often several times in a row. And also randomly, after locking the balls, the blade was not raising at all, making it impossible to start the multiball.
The IDC connector was the culprit : in switch edges test, merely touching the connector was closing the dozer up opto. A brand new molex connector fixed this.

#2933 4 months ago
Quoted from CaptainCaverne:

As you have pointed out in your thread, checking/clearing the wire mess you found is the first step. If the issue is still there, check the wiring (again) and the connectors, from the power driver board all the way to the opto board.
For what its worth, I had the following issue with the blade : randomly during plays, the blade was moving up and down, often several times in a row. And also randomly, after locking the balls, the blade was not raising at all, making it impossible to start the multiball.
The IDC connector was the culprit : in switch edges test, merely touching the connector was closing the dozer up opto. A brand new molex connector fixed this.

Are you referring to the connector that directly attaches to the dozer opto or somewhere else? I feel it’s likely the mess of wires as the opto board is slightly warm to the touch which to me indicates power is definitely making it to it. If sorting that mess of wires doesn’t do anything I will be shocked.

#2934 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Are you referring to the connector that directly attaches to the dozer opto or somewhere else? I feel it’s likely the mess of wires as the opto board is slightly warm to the touch which to me indicates power is definitely making it to it. If sorting that mess of wires doesn’t do anything I will be shocked.

Oops, sorry, yes, I was talking about the idc connector which attaches to the dozer opto.

#2935 4 months ago

Today I successfully repaired Red's lazy eye. The removal and repair was a little simpler than I was expecting. I have to say analyzing the removal and repair process had me prepared for the worse. Thankfully it was relatively straightforward.

Here's the culprit!

66725250418__0B353108-9E62-4EEF-99B5-FE98599816AB (resized).jpeg
#2936 4 months ago
Quoted from CaptainCaverne:

Oops, sorry, yes, I was talking about the idc connector which attaches to the dozer opto.

I don’t think it’s that anymore. Completely unplugged the switch matrix from CPU and dozer down was still reporting closed

10E23537-C429-4D71-9F61-95FE1CDE1F88 (resized).jpeg
#2937 4 months ago

Can someone take a picture of their connector at J118 on the power driver? The schematic is saying that ground comes from connector J118 pin 3. That connector was very loose prior to me removing the CPU board. It appears to have been redone and I think possibly done incorrectly, mine is showing what appears to be a black ground wire in pin 2 at J118 and a grey-yellow in pin 3

#2938 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Can someone take a picture of their connector at J118 on the power driver? The schematic is saying that ground comes from connector J118 pin 3. That connector was very loose prior to me removing the CPU board. It appears to have been redone and I think possibly done incorrectly, mine is showing what appears to be a black ground wire in pin 2 at J118 and a grey-yellow in pin 3

This help

20220222_173525 (resized).jpg
#2939 4 months ago
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#2940 4 months ago

Thanks guys. That wasn’t it. I saw the 4 and it looked like a 1

#2941 4 months ago

Anyone know where I can get this plastic? It’s my only broken one and I can only find it over seas

pasted_image (resized).jpeg
#2942 4 months ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Anyone know where I can get this plastic? It’s my only broken one and I can only find it over seas [quoted image]

Plus one on that plastic.

#2943 4 months ago

A protector under that plastic is a must! The end of that plastic is unsupported and gets hit quite often. Good luck with your search.

#2944 4 months ago
Quoted from razoraustralia:

A protector under that plastic is a must! The end of that plastic is unsupported and gets hit quite often. Good luck with your search.

You can get that protector along with sling protectors from Marcos. I just installed these on my machine last week.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CG1593

#2945 4 months ago
Quoted from Nez02:

TheOnlyest
allsportdvd
DuffysArcade
CaptainCaverne
Thank you for the advice. I ordered the Marco ones and they showed up not looking the best. The yellow portion has black streaks/lines almost like the black ink bled into the yellow as they printed. The yellow is a much brighter color then the original as well. I’ll reach out to Marco and see what they say.
In the mean time im still on a hunt.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The silkscreened version is available in Europe, at Ministry of Pinball.

#2946 4 months ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Anyone know where I can get this plastic? It’s my only broken one and I can only find it over seas [quoted image]

It's available in Europe, at Ministry of Pinball, they ship to US.

#2947 4 months ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Anyone know where I can get this plastic? It’s my only broken one and I can only find it over seas [quoted image]

Regarding that skillshot plastic, I'm really annoyed it's held in place by a single screw. When I added a protector plastic beneath it the ball started to get stuck under the protruding plastic. I wish there were a secondary mounting point in the upper part because if it were I could add a few washers there to raise the plastic a few millimeters.

I'm considering drilling a hole in the ball guide beneath it and rivet a spade bolt to it (pointing upwards) and drilling a hole in the two plastics above to add a secondary mounting point. Anyone tried this or something similar?

#2948 4 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Regarding that skillshot plastic, I'm really annoyed it's held in place by a single screw. When I added a protector plastic beneath it the ball started to get stuck under the protruding plastic. I wish there were a secondary mounting point in the upper part because if it were I could add a few spacers there to raise the plastic a few millimeters.
I'm considering drilling a hole in the ball guide beneath it and rivet a spade bolt to it (pointing upwards) and drilling a hole in the two plastics above to add a secondary mounting point. Anyone tried this or something similar?

I think that's a great idea. When I installed my protector last week I couldn't believe how floppy the top section of that plastic is. Mine has two mounts though and it's still floppy.

IMG_0808 (resized).jpeg
#2949 4 months ago
Quoted from SimpleSkin:

I think that's a great idea. When I installed my protector last week I couldn't believe how floppy the top section of that plastic is. Mine has two mounts though and it's still floppy.[quoted image]

I had to recheck on mine and yes I have two screws too (one was hidden beneath the TNT mod) but the plastics are indeed were floppy in the upper part.

#2950 4 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I had to recheck on mine and yes I have two screws too (one was hidden beneath the TNT mod) but the plastics are indeed were floppy in the upper part.

Maybe it's intentional, to provide some room, to absorb ball hit impact.

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