(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by jdzwir123
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There are 3,168 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 64.
#2451 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

but the new springs were stiffer than the original ones and the eyes refused to work properly until I put back the old springs again. Maybe they could have worked if I changed the head coils to new (stronger?) ones too.

Same problem here. I ordered from two different shops in Germany and the eyes didn’t work well. I even changed the coils but no improvement.
The old original springs are easier to compress.

Peter

#2452 1 year ago

Hey guys, id like to light my tonka topper you see on my game.
Maybe a small yellow bulb on top of the cab that would light or flash.

What your recommandation?

B875533B-3132-40DC-BD23-62A4609C8EBB (resized).jpegFEB83D77-C923-434C-851B-2373F8E0EFCC (resized).jpeg
#2453 1 year ago

Wire into circuit that lights the translite.

#2454 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Wire into circuit that lights the translite.

Yes thx but what kind of bulb and attachement to mount?

#2455 1 year ago

I would use a few Comet frosted 2SMDs and connect them up using Comet's matrix system. You can get extra sockets (search Comet for "socket") and extra long matrix extensions to reach the backboard.

Also on your topper you should try to remove the cage around the seat as Ted's dozer does not have a cage. There are other toy dozer's out there that more closely match Ted's dozer, see ebay listings for instance, but they are typically more expensive than the one you picked up.

#2456 1 year ago
Quoted from THJM:

I would use a few Comet frosted 2SMDs and connect them up using Comet's matrix system. You can get extra sockets (search Comet for "socket") and extra long matrix extensions to reach the backboard.
Also on your topper you should try to remove the cage around the seat as Ted's dozer does not have a cage. There are other toy dozer's out there that more closely match Ted's dozer, see ebay listings for instance, but they are typically more expensive than the one you picked up.

Hehe i paid 100$ on walmart. Not cheap.

I think its good idea to cut the cage, but i dont know where to place bulbs after?

#2457 1 year ago

my birthday is coming in a month. My gf asked me for any gift ideas

i was thinking of a Pinsound + or Pinstadium(not sure what model) for my RoadShow/Tales from the Crypt or Dirty Harry?

what would you choose and why and for which machine?

thanks

#2458 1 year ago

Hi everyone,

Today my first pinball machine was delivered and setup - a gently used Road Show! I'm so happy and have been playing all day. You can see a shot in my avatar pic.

I've run into a problem right away, though:
After locking a second ball, instead of loading a new 3rd ball into the shooting lane for me to try to get into Ted's mouth for multiball - the game instead ejects 2 balls from the lock/spinner lane, one at a time. The first ball is ejected shortly after locking ball 2, and then after a short pause, it ejects a second ball. Ted correctly goes to sleep and is waiting for a ball in the mouth to start multiball. In fact, if I reserve the two balls (including the one released prematurely) and then use one for Ted's mouth, multiball starts (but a new ball isn't added to the playfield), and I can play the two balls for all of the multiball bonuses.

I see that a fellow RS Pinsider posted a similar problem 3 years ago, but the resolution of the problem isn't discussed. I've PM'd that user and hope to hear from them, but thought I would ask here as well in case it's a problem that a RS owner can help me troubleshoot. Here's the thread from 3 years ago, in case it helps. I'm not sure that the switch-related discussion that ensued was related to the problem or not. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-multiball-problem

I bought from Joystix here in Houston, and of course I'll also call them tomorrow to discuss it. Again, I'm hoping an experienced owner can save me a lot of time if they've seen this or something similar before.

For now, I'm managing to play and enjoy the game. Multiball is just a special puzzle

Any help?

Thanks!

#2459 1 year ago
Quoted from dig65:

Hi everyone,
Today my first pinball machine was delivered and setup - a gently used Road Show! I'm so happy and have been playing all day. You can see a shot in my avatar pic.
I've run into a problem right away, though:
After locking a second ball, instead of loading a new 3rd ball into the shooting lane for me to try to get into Ted's mouth for multiball - the game instead ejects 2 balls from the lock/spinner lane, one at a time. The first ball is ejected shortly after locking ball 2, and then after a short pause, it ejects a second ball. Ted correctly goes to sleep and is waiting for a ball in the mouth to start multiball. In fact, if I reserve the two balls (including the one released prematurely) and then use one for Ted's mouth, multiball starts (but a new ball isn't added to the playfield), and I can play the two balls for all of the multiball bonuses.
I see that a fellow RS Pinsider posted a similar problem 3 years ago, but the resolution of the problem isn't discussed. I've PM'd that user and hope to hear from them, but thought I would ask here as well in case it's a problem that a RS owner can help me troubleshoot. Here's the thread from 3 years ago, in case it helps. I'm not sure that the switch-related discussion that ensued was related to the problem or not. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-multiball-problem
I bought from Joystix here in Houston, and of course I'll also call them tomorrow to discuss it. Again, I'm hoping an experienced owner can save me a lot of time if they've seen this or something similar before.
For now, I'm managing to play and enjoy the game. Multiball is just a special puzzle
Any help?
Thanks!

When playing, can you go into swich edge and see if the trough switches are "seeing" the trough balls? I would go there and roll the balls down the trough and make sure they're being seen....as a start anyway...seems like the game is adjusting for not finding the balls...

#2460 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

When playing, can you go into swich edge and see if the trough switches are "seeing" the trough balls? I would go there and roll the balls down the trough and make sure they're being seen....as a start anyway...seems like the game is adjusting for not finding the balls...

Thanks so much for trying to help!

Here's what I did:

Removed all 4 balls and ran the "Switch Levels" test (T2) with these results (switch numbers in parenthesis):
Dozer down (12)
Always closed (24)
Trough jam (41) (seems like a clue!?)
Trough 1 (42)
Trough 2 (43)
Trough 3 (44)
Trough 4 (45)

Then rand the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity

The result if I then run the Switch Level test (t2) again:
Dozer down (12)
Always closed (24)
Trough jam (41) (still there!)
Trough 1 (42)
Trough 2 (43)
Trough 3 (44)
Trough 4 (45)
Lockup 1 (52)
Lockup 2 (53)

I've raised the playfield and looked for anything obviously messed up around the switches in that whole trough area and don't see anything unusual, but I'm admittedly a total newb.

Any of this help give some hints?

Thanks again for helping a newbie.

#2461 1 year ago
Quoted from dig65:

Thanks so much for trying to help!
Here's what I did:
Removed all 4 balls and ran the "Switch Levels" test (T2) with these results (switch numbers in parenthesis):
Dozer down (12)
Always closed (24)
Trough jam (41) (seems like a clue!?)
Trough 1 (42)
Trough 2 (43)
Trough 3 (44)
Trough 4 (45)
Then rand the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity
The result if I then run the Switch Level test (t2) again:
Dozer down (12)
Always closed (24)
Trough jam (41) (still there!)
Trough 1 (42)
Trough 2 (43)
Trough 3 (44)
Trough 4 (45)
Lockup 1 (52)
Lockup 2 (53)
I've raised the playfield and looked for anything obviously messed up around the switches in that whole trough area and don't see anything unusual, but I'm admittedly a total newb.
Any of this help give some hints?
Thanks again for helping a newbie.

Ok, so I just pulled all my balls out (hey now) and the only closed switch I have is the always closed and the dozer switch. The trough switches, which are opto switches and shown as boxes on the switch test, are not closed. when the balls are added all four trough switches are then closed. The jamb switch should not be active unless you have ball stuck to far up the passage. Your lock switches should not be active either. Try and activate them in edge test and see if you're getting an activation. drop a ball down your trough and see if the jamb switch is activating.

#2462 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Try and activate them in edge test and see if you're getting an activation. drop a ball down your trough and see if the jamb switch is activating.

I don’t understand this instruction. I did put balls through the lock trough with the edge test running, and reported the results in my previous reply. I see Lockup 1 and Lockup 2 activating (and the Spinner spinning)

Do you mean drop balls down into the main trough at the bottom of the playfield and check for results there?

Editing to add this: I should mention that I already noted that after adding 4 balls to the main trough, the Trough 1 - Trough 4 switches were no longer reported in the T2 test. So I'm not sure if I'm using the right terminology for open vs. closed, but those 4 switches do change when you add the 4 balls to the main trough. The Trough Jam switch did not change status after adding the balls though, and is still reported by T2 when the balls are in the trough.

Another edit to report: I dropped the 4 balls into the main trough while running the Switch Edge test (T1), and I see each of the Trough 1 - Trough 4 flicker and then the appropriate switch changes from an empty square to a dot. The Trough Jam switch never flickers and never changes from an open square.

#2463 1 year ago
Quoted from dig65:

I don’t understand this instruction. I did put balls through the lock trough with the edge test running, and reported the results in my previous reply. I see Lockup 1 and Lockup 2 activating (and the Spinner spinning)
Do you mean drop balls down into the main trough at the bottom of the playfield and check for results there?
Editing to add this: I should mention that I already noted that after adding 4 balls to the main trough, the Trough 1 - Trough 4 switches were no longer reported in the T2 test. So I'm not sure if I'm using the right terminology for open vs. closed, but those 4 switches do change when you add the 4 balls to the main trough. The Trough Jam switch did not change status after adding the balls though, and is still reported by T2 when the balls are in the trough.
Another edit to report: I dropped the 4 balls into the main trough while running the Switch Edge test (T1), and I see each of the Trough 1 - Trough 4 flicker and then the appropriate switch changes from an empty square to a dot. The Trough Jam switch never flickers and never changes from an open square.

ok, so I's not sure were talking about the same switches... The lock switches 1 and 2 are the bunker switches, they should not be active if the balls are out of the machine. They are easy to rule out as you can acitivate them from under the playfield. Now the trough switches seem to be activating properly, except the jam switch, which seems to always be activating. I would do the "camera" test to check if the led is lit. If that is lit, you now have to check your opto board/photo transistor to see why your switch is always active. The LM339's are known to fail on that board...check pinwiki for various ways to troubleshoot these issues.

#2464 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

ok, so I's not sure were talking about the same switches... The lock switches 1 and 2 are the bunker switches, they should not be active if the balls are out of the machine.

Please read my first response again. The Lockup switches were not activated with balls out of the machine. They were activated when I manually rolled balls into the lock lane (what I believe you are calling the bunker switches).

The switches have a specific name in the T1 test, and that is what I'm using.

Here's specifically what I'm referring to in my original reply:
Then ran the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity

So, I don't believe there's a problem with the Lockup switches, nor with the Trough 1-4 switches. Based on this new info, please let me know if you agree?

I'll try to learn about the "camera" test, etc. that you mentioned and see if I can understand why the Trough Jam switch shows always open.

#2465 1 year ago
Quoted from dig65:

Please read my first response again. The Lockup switches were not activated with balls out of the machine. They were activated when I manually rolled balls into the lock lane (what I believe you are calling the bunker switches).
The switches have a specific name in the T1 test, and that is what I'm using.
Here's specifically what I'm referring to in my original reply:
Then ran the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity
So, I don't believe there's a problem with the Lockup switches, nor with the Trough 1-4 switches. Based on this new info, please let me know if you agree?
I'll try to learn about the "camera" test, etc. that you mentioned and see if I can understand why the Trough Jam switch shows always open.

Ok I got ya on the lock switches, I'm guessing the spinner may be teetering and making momentary contact when you adding the balls...easy enough to test by spinning the spinner...So back to the jamb switch...using your phone camera- while viewing through the phone, you'll see the the lit leds in the trough...thats an easy check to see if they are all on....have you looked at the connectors on the trough board? make sure they're all good...ultimatly this sounds like a switch issue...but opto switch issues are always more difficult to diagnose due to the opto board they pass through...pinwiki is a great resource for this...

#2466 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Ok I got ya on the lock switches, I'm guessing the spinner may be teetering and making momentary contact when you adding the balls...easy enough to test by spinning the spinner...So back to the jamb switch...using your phone camera- while viewing through the phone, you'll see the the lit leds in the trough...thats an easy check to see if they are all on....have you looked at the connectors on the trough board? make sure they're all good...ultimatly this sounds like a switch issue...but opto switch issues are always more difficult to diagnose due to the opto board they pass through...pinwiki is a great resource for this...

Update: It's basically impossible to see the Trough Jam LED with a camera because of where it's positioned. But I can see the other Trough1-4 LEDs shining with my iPhone front facing camera.

And here's much more important info:
First I want to make sure I use the correct terminology. A "dot" in the T1 test matrix indicates an "open" circuit, and an empty square indicates a "closed" circuit. The Trough1-4 and Trough Jam switches are "closed", or a square, when they are not blocked by a ball. When the ball is in place, they are "open", or a dot.

I can load the balls in the main trough and see each Trough1-4 switch open. I can take a pencil and put it in front of the Trough Jam LED and it will show it activating (opening the circuit, changing from a square to a dot) on the Switch Edge test (T1).

So, I can load all 4 balls in the main trough and each of the Trough1-4 switches will open (turn from squares to dots), and then I can put a pencil where the Trough Jam LED is, and it will also activate and show as open (turn from square to dot) in the T1 test. So now I'm wondering if we've misunderstood each other earlier? Am I describing what would be normal operation based on what you see on your machine?

If so, it doesn't seem like this would be related to my original problem.

Also, could I ask you to run T1 while you put 3 balls consecutively into the lock lane, and tell me what you see reported on the test?

#2467 1 year ago

Would any kind RS owner be willing to run a quick Switch Edge (T1) test for me and report back what they see? You would have to take the glass off to manually throw balls into the lock lane.

What I’m specifically wondering is if we should see the Lock Kickout switch (54) at least flicker on the T1 test when balls are sent into the lock lane. I posted this previously about what I observe when doing the test:

Then ran the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity

I’m wondering if I should also be seeing the Lock Kickout switch flicker when the balls go into the trough?

Trying to see if that switch is really bad with just simple testing before someone helps me troubleshoot further. This switch seems to be infamous in this thread for causing the kind of problem I’m having, and some other similar problems. Probably going to replace it, but it’s no fun to access that switch.

#2468 1 year ago

Hey guys,
The 'Hit Ted' eddy board/switch needs adjusting on mine. No problem, do it enough with the 'Hit Dozer'.
But what is the purpose of hitting ted? I can't think of any situation where that sensor is used. Except for maybe if a ball gets trapped between Teds mouth and the dozer blade?

Quoted from dig65:

Would any kind RS owner be willing to run a quick Switch Edge (T1) test for me and report back what they see? You would have to take the glass off to manually throw balls into the lock lane.
What I’m specifically wondering is if we should see the Lock Kickout switch (54) at least flicker on the T1 test when balls are sent into the lock lane. I posted this previously about what I observe when doing the test:
Then ran the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity
I’m wondering if I should also be seeing the Lock Kickout switch flicker when the balls go into the trough?
Trying to see if that switch is really bad with just simple testing before someone helps me troubleshoot further. This switch seems to be infamous in this thread for causing the kind of problem I’m having, and some other similar problems. Probably going to replace it, but it’s no fun to access that switch.

If I adjust my eddy sensor tomorrow I'll try this while the glass is off also.

#2469 1 year ago
Quoted from dig65:

Would any kind RS owner be willing to run a quick Switch Edge (T1) test for me and report back what they see? You would have to take the glass off to manually throw balls into the lock lane.
What I’m specifically wondering is if we should see the Lock Kickout switch (54) at least flicker on the T1 test when balls are sent into the lock lane. I posted this previously about what I observe when doing the test:
Then ran the "Switch Edge" test (T1) while I manually fed 3 balls into the lock trough, and got these results:
First ball I see "Lockup 1" (which is then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Second ball I see "Lockup 2" (also then interrupted by "Spinner" activity)
Third ball I just see "Spinner" activity
I’m wondering if I should also be seeing the Lock Kickout switch flicker when the balls go into the trough?
Trying to see if that switch is really bad with just simple testing before someone helps me troubleshoot further. This switch seems to be infamous in this thread for causing the kind of problem I’m having, and some other similar problems. Probably going to replace it, but it’s no fun to access that switch.

I did, and I did not see that switch activate. If you lift the playfield you can just lift the wire lead to activate it...easy enough

#2470 1 year ago

I had a test report saying 'Hit Ted' switch isn't working.

I adjusted the eddy board and the light comes on when the ball is over it.
I swapped the eddy board with the 'hit bulldozer' eddy board and the board seems fine.

What do I check next? No other switches are showing errors.

Edit: solved... Right in front of my eyes the White-grey wire had came out of the connector.

20210309_125621 (resized).jpg
#2471 1 year ago

Just wanted to post a follow up to my previous posts, because I think it's always important to post the resolution to problems online. It's so frustrating when a troubleshooting discussion just ends with no resolution, and the previous participants won't respond to requests for help.

So, in my case the symptom was that after locking the second ball in the lock lane, the game would go through the normal routine of Ted going to sleep and raising his blade, and prompting on the DMD to shoot Ted's mouth to start multiball - but instead of loading a new ball in the shoot lane, the game would eject both balls in the lock trough down the lock lane. It was like getting 2/3 of multiball early! Of course, then the game got confused on what was up until you drain the 2 balls.

I and the tech thought it would probably be the Lock Kickout switch (54) on the back of the popup assembly failing intermittently. That's been mentioned in this thread as the culprit in some similar problems, so it seemed likely.

Turns out that was wrong, and the problem was actually the Lockout 2 switch that needed realigning so that it would not flicker when registering the second locked ball. A simple alignment and tightening of the screws, and the game started behaving correctly.

Hey, I'm also editing this post to give a shoutout to Joystix in Houston, TX who sold me this RS, and who have been great in the early days of ownership with support and service.

#2472 1 year ago
Quoted from dig65:

Just wanted to post a follow up to my previous posts, because I think it's always important to post the resolution to problems online. It's so frustrating when a troubleshooting discussion just ends with no resolution, and the previous participants won't respond to requests for help.
So, in my case the symptom was that after locking the second ball in the lock lane, the game would go through the normal routine of Ted going to sleep and raising his blade, and prompting on the DMD to shoot Ted's mouth to start multiball - but instead of loading a new ball in the shoot lane, the game would eject both balls in the lock trough down the lock lane. It was like getting 2/3 of multiball early! Of course, then the game got confused on what was up until you drain the 2 balls.
I and the tech thought it would probably be the Lock Kickout switch (54) on the back of the popup assembly failing intermittently. That's been mentioned in this thread as the culprit in some similar problems, so it seemed likely.
Turns out that was wrong, and the problem was actually the Lockout 2 switch that needed realigning so that it would not flicker when registering the second locked ball. A simple alignment and tightening of the screws, and the game started behaving correctly.

Good job.

Is there a way to test all switches at the same time?

Sometime, eyes on red snd ted got stuck and i dont see any fault

#2473 1 year ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Good job.
Is there a way to test all switches at the same time?
Sometime, eyes on red snd ted got stuck and i dont see any fault

The T1 test shows the switch matrix, and will give you immediate feedback of any switches that are closed/opened as they happen. But I don't believe I see (in the manual) a switch in the matrix for either set of eyes. Those are solenoids.

You can run the Solenoid test (T4), either repeating a specific solenoid or cycling through them all. You can find the solenoid numbers in the solenoid/flasher table in the manual on page 2-48 to reference what you need.

#2474 1 year ago
Quoted from dig65:

But I don't believe I see (in the manual) a switch in the matrix for either set of eyes.

You are correct, there are no switches at all inside the two heads. I've taken them apart several times, 0 switches there.

The eyes are notorious for not working properly. You should remove the heads from the game (quite a lot of hassle, at least for Ted) and go through them, replace all worn parts and clean everything.

#2475 1 year ago

Project completed

D3DF210C-63E4-4E20-8C13-20B7C58B33DE (resized).jpeg
#2476 1 year ago

Nice! Good spot for the LED!

#2477 1 year ago
Quoted from THJM:

Nice! Good spot for the LED!

thx, we cut the cabin and installed the LED. Will plug after work.

#2478 1 year ago

Got a question for the group...concerning left shooter lane strategy..so there are three shots here, if the last shot is lit (far one and at Ted's head), you get 25mil., but if you go short, the second gives 5 mil ( I think), i would think shooting this short would give the higher points because what difficult about slamming the ball north to Ted? Also what achievement lights these shots...am I missing something here on the strategy.

#2479 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Got a question for the group...concerning left shooter lane strategy..so there are three shots here, if the last shot is lit (far one and at Ted's head), you get 25mil., but if you go short, the second gives 5 mil ( I think), i would think shooting this short would give the higher points because what difficult about slamming the ball north to Ted? Also what achievement lights these shots...am I missing something here on the strategy.

From the rulesheet:

<6> Flying Rocks

Flying Rocks is akin to the Steps in FunHouse. First light the Left Ramp by getting a Wheel award or enough Blasts (Flying Rocks can NOT be stacked at the Ramp). Hitting the Ramp sends the ball down to the left-hand plunger (using some cleverly-placed diverters). A habitrail leads away from the plunger, and it has three exits. Each exit has an award:

Bottom hole
Lite 5x Blast. The ball is fed to the Middle Left Flipper for a one-time shot at the Blast Targets.
Middle hole
Lite Radio Riot. The ball is fed to the Left Inlane. Each hit to the three-bank of Radio Targets scores 10M for the rest of the ball. Sometimes you'll hear air checks from radio stations: "Turn your knob to BOB. BOB 100 FM", "103.5 - WYNY."
Top hole
Lite EB. The ball is fed to the Inside Right Inlane, which is a pretty good setup for a shot at the Lock.
If you send the ball past the top exit, it will hit Ted in the head! This makes Ted very sore and awards 25M. The ball will roll back to the top hole and exit that way.

Hitting one of the lower three shots when lit unlights it. The Lite 5x Blast hole is lit for you at the start of the game, and another is lit the first time you get the ball to the Rocks Plunger. Hitting the Center Loop at any time also lights the next unlit Flying Rocks shot. In any event, the shots are always lit in order from bottom to top, and you can collect only one EB from the Rocks per game.

Note 1: If a ball goes airborne and lands at the Rocks Plunger, you will be able to collect the Rocks awards, just as if you had gotten the ball there legitimately.

Note 2: hitting one of the three lower Rocks shots awards 10M if it was lit, and 5M if not.

#2480 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

From the rulesheet:
<6> Flying Rocks
Flying Rocks is akin to the Steps in FunHouse. First light the Left Ramp by getting a Wheel award or enough Blasts (Flying Rocks can NOT be stacked at the Ramp). Hitting the Ramp sends the ball down to the left-hand plunger (using some cleverly-placed diverters). A habitrail leads away from the plunger, and it has three exits. Each exit has an award:
Bottom hole
Lite 5x Blast. The ball is fed to the Middle Left Flipper for a one-time shot at the Blast Targets.
Middle hole
Lite Radio Riot. The ball is fed to the Left Inlane. Each hit to the three-bank of Radio Targets scores 10M for the rest of the ball. Sometimes you'll hear air checks from radio stations: "Turn your knob to BOB. BOB 100 FM", "103.5 - WYNY."
Top hole
Lite EB. The ball is fed to the Inside Right Inlane, which is a pretty good setup for a shot at the Lock.
If you send the ball past the top exit, it will hit Ted in the head! This makes Ted very sore and awards 25M. The ball will roll back to the top hole and exit that way.
Hitting one of the lower three shots when lit unlights it. The Lite 5x Blast hole is lit for you at the start of the game, and another is lit the first time you get the ball to the Rocks Plunger. Hitting the Center Loop at any time also lights the next unlit Flying Rocks shot. In any event, the shots are always lit in order from bottom to top, and you can collect only one EB from the Rocks per game.
Note 1: If a ball goes airborne and lands at the Rocks Plunger, you will be able to collect the Rocks awards, just as if you had gotten the ball there legitimately.
Note 2: hitting one of the three lower Rocks shots awards 10M if it was lit, and 5M if not.

Thanks Davi

#2481 1 year ago

My restoration is coming along, decals are on. Color matched surprising well with the powdercoat

8165F0C5-EF4B-4777-89F0-3A6281D0C6F7 (resized).jpeg9D47F35C-85FD-42E1-840F-99FF7337AAB9 (resized).jpegAFFCA26B-ED8A-4431-AACD-F962F06CD5B1 (resized).jpegC16A55A6-26A3-4F61-BDFB-F5FBF79C911C (resized).jpeg
#2482 1 year ago

Hey everyone. Let’s see those backbox led layouts. I’ve seen some are using a mix of cool white, warm white, and a red or orange tossed in.

How did you do yours? Looking to order from comet soon.

#2483 1 year ago

I am fixing Teds head and am hoping someone can help.
What are the items in the images and what should I replace them with.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

009C67C8-477B-4747-B96F-C83EA819F49F (resized).jpeg16BB63A1-AF65-4532-8D6E-8F5DAC6B6B2F (resized).jpeg661A47DA-CD96-480C-8B17-6E0319B33AC2 (resized).jpeg
#2484 1 year ago

Someone put resistors in there to 'simulate' a load. There are no flashers in Ted head, AFAIK, so for some reason they.. are simulating a load of a coil? That's.. f*ckin' strange.

#2485 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

I am fixing Teds head and am hoping someone can help.
What are the items in the images and what should I replace them with.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It's definitely not original. That 6-pin Molex has 5 wires, 1 common (red/black, daisy chain) and 4 brown for the 4 coils. 6th slot is empty.

RS_Ted_cable (resized).JPGRS_Ted_cable2 (resized).JPGRS_Ted_cable3 (resized).JPG
#2486 1 year ago

So do I just remove it and leave the remaining wires as is? It was functional before I removed the head. Just replacing eyelids and cleaning.

EA3B8D91-A9E1-4004-AF68-22CF9DC5B4C7 (resized).jpeg
#2487 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

So do I just remove it and leave the remaining wires as is? It was functional before I removed the head. Just replacing eyelids and cleaning.
[quoted image]

Do you have a guide on how to remove both heads?

#2488 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

So do I just remove it and leave the remaining wires as is? It was functional before I removed the head. Just replacing eyelids and cleaning.
[quoted image]

The lower right position is normally empty. How it looks on the Molex plug side (solenoid harness)?

#2489 1 year ago

allsportdvd hi. Did you repaint the artwork or they’re decals? Looks really nice.

#2490 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

The lower right position is normally empty. How it looks on the Molex plug side (solenoid harness)?

It’s empty.
I will go with it ain’t broke.

#2491 1 year ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Do you have a guide on how to remove both heads?

#928 will do the trick.

#2492 1 year ago
Quoted from Santis:

allsportdvd hi. Did you repaint the artwork or they’re decals? Looks really nice.

Eucalyptus oil and cotton ball and patience. Then perfume grade alcohol with cotton balls. They were pretty yellow before.

#2493 1 year ago

This looks more like the door on the translite. His bulldozer is an open cab type. Very old school. Would think someone could paint/detail this old toy.

ebay.com link: VINTAGE TOOTSIETOY DIECAST Caterpillar Diesel Bulldozer With Tracks Open Cab

8A5BE0C8-F6AD-4135-8C70-1EC13E826DC8 (resized).jpeg
#2494 1 year ago
Quoted from Santis:

allsportdvd hi. Did you repaint the artwork or they’re decals? Looks really nice.

Brand new decals from Pinball Decals EU

#2495 1 year ago

Okay, a bit of a sentimental post here.

This is my Road Show topper. It is a hardhat that was distributed to all first year engineering students (known as "Frosh") at the University of Toronto in, in my case, 1985. The Frosh's mascot was Lady Godiva, and true to form a naked female model riding an actual horse paraded in front of the Ontario Legislature building which happened to be across the street from the University of Toronto Engineering buildings. Ahh the memories...

I have hung on to it all these years, for really no reason whatsoever, until I acquired my Road Show and low and behold the perfect topper. Now I just gotta get some additional Comet matrix LEDs to light it up.

The logo on the front is the UofT Engineering logo.
IMG_3984 (resized).jpg

#2496 1 year ago

allsportdvd Thank you. Cabinet looks really neat. I restore my playfield like 6 months ago I came out pretty nice.

74B0551B-B1C5-410C-8509-97B59E5FAC98 (resized).jpegE367E13D-7B82-4BB7-A9A3-A7199B7C432E (resized).jpeg
#2497 1 year ago
Quoted from THJM:

Okay, a bit of a sentimental post here.
This is my Road Show topper. It is a hardhat that was distributed to all first year engineering students (known as "Frosh") at the University of Toronto in, in my case, 1985. The Frosh's mascot was Lady Godiva, and true to form a naked female model riding an actual horse paraded in front of the Ontario Legislature building which happened to be across the street from the University of Toronto Engineering buildings. Ahh the memories...
I have hung on to it all these years, for really no reason whatsoever, until I acquired my Road Show and low and behold the perfect topper. Now I just gotta get some additional Comet matrix LEDs to light it up.
The logo on the front is the UofT Engineering logo.
[quoted image]

Very cool that you can use now with your new machine

#2498 1 year ago
Quoted from Santis:

allsportdvd Thank you. Cabinet looks really neat. I restore my playfield like 6 months ago I came out pretty nice.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Cool. I’m in the process of restoring my playfield too. Custom painted Red and Ted and all new plastics ready to go too

#2499 1 year ago

Hey all -
Kruzman has an NOS Road Show playfield available. It's an earlier print, as it has the hole between the flipper for a post.
I know there are repros coming - likely later this summer, but figured if anyone was in a hurry.

https://pinballplayfieldskruzman.com/2021/03/18/road-show-williams-nos-1300/

#2500 1 year ago

He does nice work.

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