So it ended up being a dirty opto for the right flipper button. The switch test showed the Upper-Right opto was working but the Right was not. Obviously the machine doesn't have an upper right flipper, but for whatever reason they didn't just make both optos do the same thing.

Is there supposed to be a rubber on this post?

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I don't have a rubber on my post either. Looking at it closely, I think if you did it would interfere with the ball in the shooter lane. I think they may have put it
there as a stop gap when the ball is ejected from the trough to prevent it from going underneath the apron. Just my guess, could be wrong, as I have never put a ring on that post to see how it effects the shooter lane. Maybe someone who knows will chime in!

No rubber.

Thanks guys...

Another thing, I had my RS slightly unlevel on the rear legs to make sure the ball always hit the 'magic standup' on ejecting from the bunker. But today I noticed how wonky the backbox looked so I leveled the pin...
Now it doesn't hit the standup sometimes and even goes straight down the middle on the rare occasion.

Surely the pin shouldn't have to be uneven on the rear legs... is there a ball guide or anything else I could try?

Maybe try adjusting the kickout solenoid slightly to "aim" the ball differently and to the left

Had a look and couldn't see a way to adjust that

Check the blue rubber stop inside the top of the mech is present and in good condition. You might need to remove the mech to check. It is the same as the rubber at the top of the “rocks” habitrail by Teds head. The VUK kicks the ball up that metal tube, hitting that stop and dropping down to the play field. You can see the end of the rubber in the image above the spinner switch.

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Damn I thought i'd never seen that before, but upon checking it's there

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I ended up just leveling it so it's as level as can be while still consistently hitting the stand up back to where I began really!

Although in doing this I did take out the bobs bunker mech and give things a clean up!

I'm thinking of changing my rubbers from Pinball Center silicone (?) to Perfect play. Has anyone got a rubber ring list?
The lists I found don't appear consistent and use 3/8"OD rubbers but apparently perfect play don't do them anymore as no-one bought them?
Can they be substituted by 7/16"?

Plunging the ball all the way up to Ted's helmet the ball will stop/stick at the end with the blue rubber and the switch. The game is properly leveled sideways with a real leveler (not phone). I did remove everything from the playfield to clean when I bought it so not sure how it behaved before me. I have cleaned the blue rubber so it's not sticky from dust. If I pull back the switch arm by hand the ball is still stuck, so it's not the switch that's keeping the ball in place.

Should I just put a few spacers below the last metal leg (the one that's right beside Ted) on the habitrail to increase the inclination to the left and call it a day, or could I have remounted the ramp in a bad way? I don't remember any spacers there when I removed it to clean everything.

Everything else seem to behave normally.

Other suggestions on how to fix?

A couple of questions.

I am going to LED my RS. The little red lights in the highway signs, are they already LEDs? If not, should I worry about replacing them?

Second question. This board in the pic in the middle of the underside of the playfield, what is that board called and what does it do? It is the only board on the underside that does not have its LED lit when I turn on the machine. Is that normal?

Thanks.

Edit: I RTFM and it appears to be the Dual H-Drive Motor Controller Board Assembly (page 3-22) which appears to control the mouth motors for Red and Ted. Is that all it does? I still have the same question about the LED, should it be on when the machine is powered on?

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If the rest of the game does not have LEDs, then the highway signs will not be either. They originally are regular bulbs with a color condom on them. Replace them? Personal preference.

Yes, that is all the board is for. Yes, the LED 1 should be lit. Does Red/Ted's mouths move? If not, likely is the problem because the board needs power in order to drive the motors. If the mouths do move, you can verify the voltage on the board and if it is good, then just the LED needs to be replaced.

This is not correct. The highway signs are classic red LED's from the '90s.

There you go. Correct on the 2 ramp signs. Thank you for the correction. All others are regular bulbs, which were the ones on my mind.

Might be able to change the color of the LEDs on these 2 signs, but I am sure these are soldered.

The LED's on the ramp signs are identical to the red one on the board in your pic. You can change them to a different color, but I personally don't see the point.

Well my LED on the motor board does not light when the machine is powered, yet the mouths do move. So I guess the LED needs replacing.

Thanks.

New roadshow owner, waiting on pin to be delivered.

Just purchased a bulldozer to do a topper, where can i buy 2x yellow strob light i saw in this thread?
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Looks like a nice example. Enjoy.

What model is that?..Been looking for one for a while that matches the translite as much as possible...

Walmart.ca

Type bulldozer toy

yeah I did...there are quite a few...a model would help narrow it down...also being out of country may also limit selection too...

Sorry

There you go

Bruder 02424 Construction CAT Bulldozer
Bruder 02424 Construction CAT Bulldozer

Ordered thanks!

How do people affix third party toppers? Do you have to damage the backbox?

Just installed a topper on my tftc and used 3m velcro tape. Not sure if its good but its not moving...

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Pleasure

Anyone with a topper for sale?

Thats awesome!!!

Brilliant.

You could do a weathered style version for all the cool kids, where the fish's face has a big streak worn through the middle of it.

New owner and already have my first problem after 10mins of play hehe

Ted right eye is stock on the side(see picture)

Where do i start? Thx

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Not the best “new owner” thing to start with on. RS. You will quickly hate working on the heads. It’s a bear to get inside them to fix them. I have worked on them both ways, completely removing the head from the game and trying to fix it while in the machine.

You will have to first remove the hat (one screw). Then you can remove two screws on the side of the head to loosen up the face plate. You will. Have to look inside then and see what is broken. Could be a couple things. #1) there is a plastic that connects to a serve for each eye that gets brittle and breaks. There is also a spring on the back that recent era the eye when the servo stops moving the eye. There is also the possibility servo that moves the eye is stuck or even fried. There is also some linkage to the eye that could be damaged or broken. Even the eyes themself have a connector on the back that can break.

Bottom line you will have to tear into it and see. Since you have not worked on one before, looking at the good eye will help you see what may be wrong with the bad eye.

Post picks here and we can help. I have torn apart at least 3 myself to fix them.

I’m about to restore my machine. Is it best to assemble the heads outside the machine? I’m planning on 100% new parts to start with

100% mess with them outside of the machine if you need to fix anything more complex than tightening a screw or similar. Reassembling the eye links, coils and plastic linkage is a hassle even when working on a table, I can't imagine doing it while in the machine.

I would recommend going through both heads thoroughly once, cleaning, changing worn/broken plastic parts and so on to minimize the risk of having to do it sloppily several times later on.

Red is pretty ok to remove from the pf but Ted is a pita, you need to remove lots of stuff from both sides to get him loose.

Tip #1: When I renovated my heads I replaced all springs with new ones (having the correct part numbers) but the new springs were stiffer than the original ones and the eyes refused to work properly until I put back the old springs again. Maybe they could have worked if I changed the head coils to new (stronger?) ones too.

Tip #2: When you have reassembled the heads, connect them to the game connectors and test the functionality BEFORE you put everything else (ramps, diverter, helmets, faceplates, subway ...) back into the game.

do you have a complete list of parts and quantities if i want to redo them completely?

Manual page 2-22 thru 2-25.

This!

When you have to disassemble everything to get to the head, do yourself a favor and change out the rubbers and clean in the back.

Joined the club last weekend with a RS that was ridden hard.. tear it all down, clean it, and build it back up.. should be fun! Already found the post next to the scoop is completely blown out, and I'm gonna have to patch and redrill the post hole. I saw a "repair kit" for the scoop on marco, anyone have any experience with it? Don't know if it's meant to repair busted wood...

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My playfield is getting clearcoated so everything is out. I will completely rebuild the heads before putting anything other than the underside wiring back on the game. Seems to be the best option

Both top left flippers stopped working tonight.
I then hit blast zone and shaker started and flippers worked back.

Then stopped after. Hehe

Bad wiring connection ?

Am i missing a rubber on the post?

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You certainly are, 3/8" OD. And if its been played like that for a while, you need to replace your pinballs too.

thx

indeed, whats the sign that the pinballs need replacement?

Anything but perfectly shiny, clean, and smooth (although cleaning can be properly done to fix item two).

The more a pinball hits metal, the more microscopic dings it gets, which eventually turns it into a grinding ball. Which wears tracks into your plastic ramps and slowly grinds off your PF clearcoat and artwork. The more worn a PF is, the more likely the owner still has the original balls in the game after 20+ years.
Replacing the balls is the most important and most commonly ignored detail of proper pinball maintenance.

Thx, ordered 4 and new set of complete rubbers from titan