I had the mouth not closing. In my case it was simply adding some foam tape, maybe 3mm thick to the end of the 1/4 cog to stop it travelling too far. If you need a photo let me know.

That’s Red, the foam tape has compressed to the cog line indents. It stops it travelling too far, only a couple of mm. Been working for hundreds of plays, might actually replace it while I’m looking at it.

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This could probably be posted as a separate thread for better exposure but as it's inside a Road Show I'll put it here anyway and hope for some input.

I started renovating my newly bought game today and noticed the coin door inside looking like this (with some old electrical tape removed from the loose cable ends)
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According to the manual the slam tilt should be connected with the green-red (still connected) and white-brown (cut and dangling), so I just solder that one back to the slam tilt switch right ?
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I'm also curious what could have been previously connected to the cut red-blue and red-green cables, any suggestions ? It can't be another coin chute and what the heck would you want to piggy-back on the slam-tilt switch for?
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Thanks

Question about Soren rom patch:
IPDB L6 Patch contains rom that seems like it's already the full game rom with a patch? The size is same as L6 game rom and SHA1 matches the patch readme file. Am I missing something or can I just burn this directly?

I did test to combine L6 game rom and L6 game rom patch with Lunar IPS, then apply the batch on the L6 game rom and resulting rom still had the same SHA1.

This is what Soren sent me directly....https://www.dropbox.com/s/ybnrk1rd3xq4p8k/Road%20Show%20mod%20ccd1.zip?dl=1

So basically we have to get the image of the official unpatched L-6 ROM (from ipdb.org?) , apply this patch to it and then write it to a ROM chip, then install in game. Any step I missed?

I have no idea what programs to use to apply the patch so if someone could send me a link to an already patched/fixed L-6 bin ready for writing that would be great.

It looks like the link provided is the pre-patched ROM. So, you just need a burner and an EPROM. Or, there are a handful of folks online that provide a burning service.

Ah, the readme for that zip said "The patch is distributed in the two patch formats Xdelta3 and Lunar IPS. Use either one. Just one of them, which ever suites you best. The patch files only contain the new code." but the actual content seem to be a complete ROM binary and not only the patch as stated, fooled me.

Tighten the 2 screws that hold the faceplate to the frame, they have worked loose.

The face mounting screws are loose.

Thanks, this verifies it!
So all the descriptions and old forum posts are a bit misleading here as they all tell that the ipdb patch is patch only but size and sha1 say otherwise. Then ipdb says there's no readme file, even tho there is, and the readme files tell to use xd3 or ips patch files but they're not there. So ipdb file should be named "patched", not "patch".

The file you linked generated same sha1 (1b413100005efd63cb0344ff921e5d544abed6e4) as the file inside ipdb RSHW_L6 patch.ROM and this is the sha1 mentioned in the readme too.

Good morning. Apologies if this question has been answered but I couldn't find it searching on Pinside. I'm just looking for an LED map for Road Show. Has anyone taken the time to do this? Helping me determine the correct insert colors/base type would be incredible. There are so many bulbs under here! Thank you.

Well I took matters into my own hands. The manual has the controlled/insert lamp locations and wedge/base type. They do not specify color so I think I got it sorted out but we will see later this week when the bulbs arrive.

I'm in the middle of renovating my newly bought RS and I've come to the part where I'm pondering over what to LED and what not. Usually I let GI and backbox stay incandescent and all the inserts get LED and it will probably be the same on this one. It's been a while since I played a RS though and I can't remember if this game have a lot of fading/dimming GI or not, as that might affect my decision to LED the GI too (I like bright games).

I know about the different OCD boards but those are not an alternative at the moment (I've already spent way to much on replacement parts for this game).

Recently finished my restoration. I used 4x4 smd towers all round on gi. There are lots of dark bits on this game without side facing illumination. I tried freakin everything including colours.
Colour inserts are worth the spend. The map surrounds I went green, I have seen blue also, personal preference.
Blue frosted bobs and radio blue radio. White frosted low profile 5x and radio riot left habitrail red extra ball.
I removed the start whatever VUK sign. Hate that damn thing. Gets hit anyway. Moved that sign globe to under VUK and put in colour changer. Photos in this thread not long ago.
Leds in back box brightens the colours. The bulb where the exhaust is colour changer. Just adds a bit of interest to a static scene.
Can’t remember the spot light globes, but damn bright.
Don’t be cheap on illumination. Best, most visible $ you spend IMHO. I bought from comet, cost a bit to ship to Australia but what are you gunna do.

I used tower flashers in all flasher locations, color matched inserts with cool white in clear and yellow inserts and warm in orange. I used green on the land locations and blue at the water. 2smd frosted cool white for all GI. I used all non-ghosting as well. I was pretty happy with it. I got all my LEDs from cointaker.

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Intensive dimming at extra ball, at multiball restart, at super payday, just to name a few. Without GI OCD board, it's like a strobe light. The dimming goes down to very low level.

That's exactly opposite of what I would recommend.

A game dimming the GI but using LEDs (and no GIOCD board) looks like crap in my opinion so your preference doesn't feel like an option here. If the game didn't have dimming then sure, why not LED for GI.

I tried LEDs for GI in White water (a title with lots of dimming) and it looked horrible with weird strobing and whatnot.

It's easy to disable the GI dimming in settings if someone wants LEDs but can't be bothered doing it properly. No more flicker when GI dims, because it never will.

Either leave it incandescent OR use regular non-anti-ghosting LEDS with a GI OCD board. Anything in-between is a compromise. Same goes for inserts!

Does anybody have an idea how to mechanically dimm LEDs with some kind of foil or similar? I‘m using red and blue leds for the map border but they are so extremely bright that it’s really disturbing - but I like the blue and red border...

Leave the machine on for several hours, the brightness will die down a bit. LED's tend to cool off a bit over time compared to when they are brand new.

Oh, didn't know that existed as an option in the settings. Thanks, I will try it out

The LEDs are in there for the last 6 years, don’t think they will cool off..

Do you want to loose the dimming effect or not?

I like dimming so will probably go with incandescents to keep that. Still I'm a bit curious about testing with leds and dimming turned off just to check the difference (might sacrifice dimming for a brighter lit game, not sure so need to test it I guess).

My Roadshow doesn’t have a shaker motor but I do have one of the official Stern Shakers spare. Has anyone fit a different shaker to their Roadshow with success?

Stern shaker won’t work, voltage isn’t correct. I bought the one from Marco, pricey, but it worked. I posted in this thread about it.

Any know of someone selling switch covers on the left wire ramp. I saw them on pin side awhile back. Thanks.

I tried switch covers on this game. No longer use them. Not really enough room to fit well in my experience. Save the $.

After 6 years owning this game I accomplished Evil Toll Roads the first time! This mission is so extremely hard because of the short time available...

By the way - I never ever hit the target at the left small flipper. I tried a lot but as far as I can tell it’s not possible to hit it. Is there any trick?

...that target is best hit during a mode, it always awards you something towards your goal in that mode...and of course to hit it you just let the ball roll down the flipper without flipping it after entering the bunker

No, no, you confuse this the the magic target at the upper left flipper. I mean the target at the small flipper.

ah yes...wrong target.....had to go look for the target you were speaking of...yeah can't recall if I've ever actually attempted to hit it...

In my opinion it’s impossible to willingly hit this target.

When I removed my original left plastic ramp I noticed that the plastic was cracked from having the metal diverter arm slamming into it over a long time. I am mounting a brand new repro-ramp and this one have the same problem, the diverter arm reaches the plastic before the diverter plunger hits the coil stop and stops the motion. Obviously I want to keep the new ramp in a good condition, but I'm unsure of how.

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What I already thought of:

* I measured all the different coil stop brands that I had in hope of finding one that protruded a little bit longer and thus would stop the diverter earlier, but all was same or shorter length so no go.

* I looked at the actual diverter assembly in hopes that I could move it slightly sideways below the play field but the metal "arm" part that goes up through the play field are already resting against the side of the PF hole and can't be moved further (also, if I were to file the hole bigger it wouldn't help as there is a metal ball guide just beside it in the way too).

* I was thinking about straightening the actual diverter arm a bit, but it seems I would have to make it almost straight to avoid hitting the plastic and then the diverter wouldn't divert the ball to the side properly in it's rested position.

* Moving the actual ramp sideways is obviously a no go as there are lots of screw holes and hex-posts that would not longer fit at all (and other assemblies around it are also in the way).

* Thought about gluing a washer or two on to the coil stop to make it stop the arm earlier, but I'm scared the washers would deform over time or even worse, the glue wouldn't handle the stress and the washers come loose inside the coil sleeve. In the end I discarded this idea too.

* The metal plunger that moves inside the coil looks fine, no "mushrooming" in the end, so I doubt that I could order a new one that would be slightly longer (to stop earlier).

Any suggestions on what to do? Could I do something to the spring that's connecting the diverter arm and the plunger?

In the worst case scenario I will have to put a small dampening foam piece on the ramp to try and lessen the impact force from the diverter arm but it feels like a technically bad and visually ugly solution.

I haven't looked at this diverter since I last had my machine apart, ...are you sure you have the correct coil stop?...Do you have any pics of the mech?

The assembly
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The stops I tried with. The one to the far left is the type that was there when I bought the game. All 3 three stop a tiny bit "too late".
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Not possible to move assembly more to the left (to get more distance to the ramp edge being hit).
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There are no old/unused holes around the assembly so it shouldn't have been moved by a previous owner.

From my tests it seem that if I could get the plunger to stop ~2 mm earlier then the diverter arm wouldn't hit the plastic.

so you can't just loosen the set screws and rotate the arm back a little?...then reset the screws...that's how I've done most of those diverter adjustments...

If by "set screw" you mean the tiny black hex screw then no I don't think that's possible. The tiny screw goes against a flat surface on the diverter rod, which means if I rotate the rod and fasten the screw it will go back to the old 90 degree angle again. Or am I thinking wrong?

sometimes there are "flats" on those kinds of shafts...but I would think this should be adjustable there...take it apart and see if there is a flat on it...and when you remove it and there are any burrs, take a fine file and take off the burr a bit to facilitate the set screw "grab"

There is a flat surface on my diverter rod, 100% sure. I checked that yesterday. The set screw also has a flat surface and not a pointy one, so I don't see how rotating the rod and screwing the set screw back would change anything as it will go back to the old 90 degree fastening angle again.

If it was round and not flat then this would have been easy to adjust

Hmm...any chance that the

Hmmm I'll take a look at mine tomorrow and look at the clearance at the ramp to diverter too...

@bjsilverballs. Thanks for the great ideas for painting the boom box.
I used some of your ideas, but added a few.
Possibly a little too much “bling”, but fun with my daughter to do something together that we could both work on.

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My new personal highscore 6,125,000,000 points!