(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)


By webdiddy

6 years ago



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  • 2,104 posts
  • 303 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Scroat
  • Topic is favorited by 119 Pinsiders

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There are 2104 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 43.
#2051 39 days ago
Quoted from Piso:

They way you have made your mould is the finished ramp thicker at the bottom where the ball rolls or on top (printing the ramp upside down)?

Upside down, but the horizontal surface where the ball rolls isn't thinning out like you would think...the vertical sides of the ramp is where most of the stretch happens.

#2052 36 days ago

With the measurements provided me from Rygar (thank you) I was able to print the centering flange for the eye open plunger. I also modeled the eye crank because mine was worn and red eyes sometimes rolled backwards. I made the design stronger and printed in PLA. I'm now testing it to make sure it will hold up. I will post the design once I'm done with testing.

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#2053 34 days ago

Need some guidance with Ted. His mouth won't open. In test, I can open the mouth manually, and it will close ok. I can switch Red and Ted connectors on the Dual H Drive Controller and Ted works fine- so I don't think it is the motor/ binding/ gears/ missing teeth. The Drive Controller has had Q6 replaced, which fixed a slack jawed Ted (lazy movement). This was awhile ago, I don't think it led to the current problem.

The manual has Solenoid 19 for Ted's motor direction, but 19 does not show up in the test menu. One chart in the manual (page 2-48) shows the J117 connector for the drive direction, and another chart (inside front cover and page 3-5) the J118 connector. J126 connects the Dual H Drive Controller to the board. These have been reseated, and show no burn marks.

I did LED most everything, replaced the start button, and replaced fuse F106 just prior, but Ted worked fine for a good hour or two afterwards. Appreciate any help.

#2054 34 days ago

Been enjoying my RS for a couple months now and it’s been smooth sailing until recently
I bought a ribbon cable set to put in just figured why not and after I installed them my lower flippers don’t work
They show in switch test but don’t work in game
Uppers are fine
Was thinking tge EOS Connector ?Maybe a pin has a cold solder on the back?
Took the board off and looked seemed fine
All fuses in the back box are good
Weird
Ordered the manual
Any ideas?
Thanks

#2055 34 days ago

Check how you installed your new ribbon cables. It’s somewhat easy to miss a whole row of pins when connecting the cables. Since that’s all you changed, I’d definitely focus on the ribbon cables.

#2056 33 days ago
Quoted from BryanD:

Need some guidance with Ted. His mouth won't open. In test, I can open the mouth manually, and it will close ok. I can switch Red and Ted connectors on the Dual H Drive Controller and Ted works fine- so I don't think it is the motor/ binding/ gears/ missing teeth. The Drive Controller has had Q6 replaced, which fixed a slack jawed Ted (lazy movement). This was awhile ago, I don't think it led to the current problem.
The manual has Solenoid 19 for Ted's motor direction, but 19 does not show up in the test menu. One chart in the manual (page 2-48) shows the J117 connector for the drive direction, and another chart (inside front cover and page 3-5) the J118 connector. J126 connects the Dual H Drive Controller to the board. These have been reseated, and show no burn marks.
I did LED most everything, replaced the start button, and replaced fuse F106 just prior, but Ted worked fine for a good hour or two afterwards. Appreciate any help.

I had similar issues. Sent the dual motor board to Chris Hibler for repairs. Everything works as it should now.

#2057 29 days ago

Hi,
I still don't know much about game ROMs. On the internet pinball database I can see that there are a few ROM versions, I attach an image. From what I can see only 3 official version were made by Williams: LX-2, LX-4 and L-6 (correct order?)? Then I see there are 7 PinMAME Romset, what are those? Last I can see a L6 Patch which should be the custom one made by Soren, right? Thank you

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#2058 29 days ago
Quoted from Piso:

Hi,
I still don't know much about game ROMs. On the internet pinball database I can see that there are a few ROM versions, I attach an image. From what I can see only 3 official version were made by Williams: LX-2, LX-4 and L-6 (correct order?)? Then I see there are 7 PinMAME Romset, what are those? Last I can see a L6 Patch which should be the custom one made by Soren, right? Thank you
[quoted image]

Pinmame Romsets are the sets used for Visual pinmame (WPC pinball emulator). Pinmame romset L-6 contains L-6 game rom and all L-1 sound roms.
L6 patch is the latest Soren patch for Roadshow (after patching you get a L-6 ccd1 version).

#2059 28 days ago
Quoted from rygar:

Pinmame Romsets are the sets used for Visual pinmame (WPC pinball emulator). Pinmame romset L-6 contains L-6 game rom and all L-1 sound roms.
L6 patch is the latest Soren patch for Roadshow (after patching you get a L-6 ccd1 version).

Thank you. Only two more questions.
What are the difference in the LX export ROMs?
I have seen a video of a Road Show with LX-4 ROM that, after a bridge out on the left ramp, you get a bank shot at TED closed mouth with the bulldozer up. Never occured to me on my L-6.
Here the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/khkrzerzi3q0hu7/20-05-04-13-18-29_01.mp4?dl=0

#2060 28 days ago
Quoted from Piso:

Thank you. Only two more questions.
What are the difference in the LX export ROMs?
I have seen a video of a Road Show with LX-4 ROM that, after a bridge out on the left ramp, you get a bank shot at TED closed mouth with the bulldozer up. Never occured to me on my L-6.
Here the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/khkrzerzi3q0hu7/20-05-04-13-18-29_01.mp4?dl=0

"X" versions were for export from the US. Usually adjustments settings, pricing-specific changes, and small game-play changes (rare, but did occur) to make the game operate under needed laws.

Later, room on the ROMs was increased (one way or another) and there was no longer a need for seperate US/Export revisions, so it was all one ROM (L-x). (There IS at least one exemption to this, Safe Cracker, but..)

#2061 24 days ago
Quoted from Piso:

Thank you

Are you going to reproduce them? If yes, count me in

Quoted from JodyG:

Did a test pull today...have to make some mold adjustments, but they are coming along! Screwed them up getting them too hot, so there are some wavy edges, as evidenced on the lower right. Also none of the secondary work is done on these....just a pull and trim.
[quoted image]

Nice I need a set of those

#2062 19 days ago

I found that the ball lock separator on my RS has broken (part# A-18818). Replacements aren't available from what I can see & Marcos is out of stock. Does anyone have a spare I could buy or does anyone 3D print these? Thanks!

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#2063 18 days ago
Quoted from MikeSinMD:

I had similar issues. Sent the dual motor board to Chris Hibler for repairs. Everything works as it should now.

I sent the dual motor board to Chris Hibler and had it back in 7 days. Fixed. Couldn't be happier. Thanks for the recommendation and thanks to Mr Hibler.

#2064 18 days ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

Soo, high voltage on the DMD was acting up. The question was to fix it or do something a little more drastic.
[quoted image]
Yeah. Totally worth it. Looks great in High-Res mode, the cartoony look suits the game. Now Just need to find a new backbox to replace my lost cause one.

Is that the LED or LCD version

#2065 18 days ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

It was fuse 107 and it had burnt out. I replaced it and the game is running fine. I actually lost the screw and i need to buy another. I was thinking home depot might have it

Never quit looking until you find a dropped screw. They can cause serious damage.

#2066 17 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

I can do any color. Translucent, chrome, uv, etc. I prefer PETG as it's very difficult to break. Acrylic is fragile.

Do you still sell these for roadshow?

#2067 14 days ago

Hi all,
I'm looking to get a Road Show as my first pin, so I thought this would be the best place to ask some questions.

I'm aware of Fish wear, but does it affect gameplay at all?
Is it fixable (other than a whole new playfield).

Trying to educate myself before I make a mistake and pay over the odds for something I don't know about

#2068 14 days ago

Fish wear is cosmetic only, as long as it’s not absurdly bad. Some places sell repair decals. Mine has a decal and you wouldn’t know unless you reallllly looked for it.

#2069 14 days ago

Repro platforms are due out this year some time.

So if the cosmetic fish worries you.. Hang in there.

#2070 14 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Hi all,
I'm looking to get a Road Show as my first pin, so I thought this would be the best place to ask some questions.
I'm aware of Fish wear, but does it affect gameplay at all?
Is it fixable (other than a whole new playfield).
Trying to educate myself before I make a mistake and pay over the odds for something I don't know about

The biggest problem I had were the Eddy sensor boards, I replaced them with auto adjusting ones and haven’t had a problem since

#2071 14 days ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

The biggest problem I had were the Eddy sensor boards, I replaced them with auto adjusting ones and haven’t had a problem since

Or you can replace the trimmers on the eddy boards for a few cents each and you are good for atleast 10 years, probably even more in home environment.

#2072 14 days ago
Quoted from rygar:

Or you can replace the trimmers on the eddy boards for a few cents each and you are good for at least 10 years, probably even more in home environment.

#2073 14 days ago

for those of you that have installed Soren's updated code. I seem to be having a problem with the Lunar IPS program recognizing the file as an IPS file to do the update. RSHW_L6 patch.ROM is the file name after extraction. I hit "apply IPS patch", new window opens, I select the listed file to the left, and it states its not the correct file type. What am I missing here?
edit- played with it some more, used "create ips patch" with the downloaded patch file, which created the ips file, then used that with the original rom file with the new ips file and made a new rom file...I think I got it...whew computer shit is a struggle...

#2074 13 days ago

I just ordered the patched rom from Stephan at hobby roms dot com. No sense reinventing the wheel

#2075 11 days ago

Anyone happen to have an NOS translite laying around that they'd sell me?

#2076 10 days ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

Davi, This might help you out![quoted image]

Thanks! Do you have an high quality version/file ready to print?

Also do anyone have a file to print hat decals for red and ted?

#2077 8 days ago

Just picked up a roadshow and I'm troubleshooting a few issues and could use some help.

1) Game won't start after hitting start button. I powered it up today and everything is fine, but when I push the start button it won't start a game and just stays in attract mode. I checked the start button switch and wiring and it looks good and the start button works in switch edge test.

2) I'm getting a credit dot for the "hit red" switch which is the one that I assume triggers when you hit her closed mouth for the millions shot. Where is this switch and how do I access to fix? I see a switch under the playfield in her area but it's a different one per the switch edge test and it works.

3) Ted's eye lids don't always close all the way and curious how to diagnose the issue.

Really appreciate the help

#2078 8 days ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

The biggest problem I had were the Eddy sensor boards, I replaced them with auto adjusting ones and haven’t had a problem since

Which ones did you get?

#2079 8 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Just picked up a roadshow and I'm troubleshooting a few issues and could use some help.
1) Game won't start after hitting start button. I powered it up today and everything is fine, but when I push the start button it won't start a game and just stays in attract mode. I checked the start button switch and wiring and it looks good and the start button works in switch edge test.
2) I'm getting a credit dot for the "hit red" switch which is the one that I assume triggers when you hit her closed mouth for the millions shot. Where is this switch and how do I access to fix? I see a switch under the playfield in her area but it's a different one per the switch edge test and it works.
3) Ted's eye lids don't always close all the way and curious how to diagnose the issue.
Really appreciate the help

Not sure on the game start problem.

The hit red is a eddy board adjustment.

Eyes closing would be in the small eye reset coil and associated plastic piece. You should be able to take his face off and get a better idea.

#2080 8 days ago
Quoted from Juicerc51:

Not sure on the game start problem.
The hit red is a eddy board adjustment.
Eyes closing would be in the small eye reset coil and associated plastic piece. You should be able to take his face off and get a better idea.

When you say eddy board adjustment what exactly do you mean?

Quoted from MikeSinMD:

Which ones did you get?

What board did you get as the replacement and where did you get it from?

#2081 8 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

When you say eddy board adjustment what exactly do you mean?

What board did you get as the replacement and where did you get it from?

Look under the playfield in front of reds mouth, you’ll see a board recessed into the playfield. There is a potentiometer on it that you can adjust to make it more or less sensitive.

If the game won’t start, it may not be recognizing that you have the right number of balls in the game. Pull them out, make sure you have right number, put game in test mode and feed them into trough one by one and see if all switches activate.

For teds eyes, you likely need a new spring and/or centering grommet. Unforuntately, Ted is very difficult to get out, you have to take apart a good part of the upper playfield.

#2082 8 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Look under the playfield in front of reds mouth, you’ll see a board recessed into the playfield. There is a potentiometer on it that you can adjust to make it more or less sensitive.
If the game won’t start, it may not be recognizing that you have the right number of balls in the game. Pull them out, make sure you have right number, put game in test mode and feed them into trough one by one and see if all switches activate.
For teds eyes, you likely need a new spring and/or centering grommet. Unforuntately, Ted is very difficult to get out, you have to take apart a good part of the upper playfield.

Really appreciate the advice and fixed the Eddy board switch error. I was mistaken about the start button issue...it's the wiring on the start button. The button doesn't register in test and I tried a brand new switch and still nothing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

#2084 8 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Really appreciate the advice and fixed the Eddy board switch error. I was mistaken about the start button issue...it's the wiring on the start button. The button doesn't register in test and I tried a brand new switch and still nothing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Look at your buy-in button, I believe it’s wired the same as the start button.

#2085 8 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

1) Game won't start after hitting start button. I powered it up today and everything is fine, but when I push the start button it won't start a game and just stays in attract mode. I checked the start button switch and wiring and it looks good and the start button works in switch edge test.

Do you have credits on the game, or is the game in Free Play?

#2086 8 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Do you have credits on the game, or is the game in Free Play?

The game is on Free Play. Update on the issue. The entire 1st column of the switch matrix is out. Not sure why, but that's what I'm dealing with. I've been told that it's likely the chip at location U20 and that will need to be replaced with this: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-uln2803a-switch-matrix-driver-chip.html

#2087 8 days ago

Post a pic of your cpu below the battery holder

#2088 8 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

Post a pic of your cpu below the battery holder

Happy to do that tomorrow morning, but the batteries are off the board if battery acid dmaange is what you'd be looking for

#2089 8 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Happy to do that tomorrow morning, but the batteries are off the board if battery acid dmaange is what you'd be looking for

Just because the batteries aren't currently there doesn't mean previous batteries never leaked.

#2090 7 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

The game is on Free Play. Update on the issue. The entire 1st column of the switch matrix is out. Not sure why, but that's what I'm dealing with. I've been told that it's likely the chip at location U20 and that will need to be replaced with this: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-uln2803a-switch-matrix-driver-chip.html

Could be u20, but also could be a bad connection on j207, pin 1. Could be wire isn’t seated well, a bad header pin or a broken wire. The wire is green brown. Do you have continuity from the wire at the connector on the board to the start button switch or any switches on that column?

#2091 7 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

The game is on Free Play.

Okay, just figured I would check, since:

Quoted from per3per3:

The entire 1st column of the switch matrix is out.

Quoted from per3per3:

the start button works in switch edge test.

These two statements can not both be true.

#2092 7 days ago

Joined the club this weekend. Plays well but needs some spiffing up.

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#2093 7 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Could be u20, but also could be a bad connection on j207, pin 1. Could be wire isn’t seated well, a bad header pin or a broken wire. The wire is green brown. Do you have continuity from the wire at the connector on the board to the start button switch or any switches on that column?

Really appreciate the recommendations. I was able to track down the u20 chip and swapped it in and....the game is back in action! I've been wrecking some road all afternoon!

#2094 4 days ago

My cabinet art is a bit faded and has some scratches. I'm planning to replace them with quality decals in the future. I love the finish of the original silkscreened art. Are silkscreened cabinet decals available for Road Show or can you reccomend me some good quality ones? Thank you

#2095 2 days ago

Anyone have a listing of all the bands and their correct sizes for this machine ...did a quick search and didn't come back with anything and nothing in the online manual (still waiting on my paper copy).

#2096 2 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Anyone have a listing of all the bands and their correct sizes for this machine ...did a quick search and didn't come back with anything and nothing in the online manual (still waiting on my paper copy).

The manual (available at https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1972) includes virtually everything else about the machine, but to the best of my knowledge there is not an official rubber list available.

At https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/byGame/3857 , you can see several people's attempts at compiling their own rubber lists.

#2097 2 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Anyone have a listing of all the bands and their correct sizes for this machine ...did a quick search and didn't come back with anything and nothing in the online manual (still waiting on my paper copy).

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#2098 2 days ago

someone key post the above post!

#2099 1 day ago

Hello guys, I would need to find the correct part number for for the bell armature in the pop up assembly (the one that kicks out balls from lock). In my pin i have the one in picture but it needs different try to successfully kick out the ball. Is it the correct part? Manual says A-17797 but that part n° on Marco gives another item and so I don't have a visual reference... please help!!

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#2100 1 day ago

image (resized).jpgI think this is the part you’re looking for https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-13270

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