That looks super creepy! I don't know why, but i want more pictures of it!
Some times my Ted's mouth doesn't close fully after he says something. He is then left with a (semi) open mouth until the next time he talks, and everything is fine again for a while. The amount of gap to the top when it happens varies a lot. It happens occasionally, but not in every game.
Works fine in test mode.
Any ideas? Could it be something as simple as a loose connection or a cold soldering on the motor driver board?
Quoted from Phantasize:Some times my Ted's mouth doesn't close fully after he says something. He is then left with a (semi) open mouth until the next time he talks, and everything is fine again for a while. The amount of gap to the top when it happens varies a lot. It happens occasionally, but not in every game.
Works fine in test mode.
Any ideas? Could it be something as simple as a loose connection or a cold soldering on the motor driver board?
Likely the plastic gears are worn. I believe you may be able to replace them without having to remove Ted. You can with Red. You could also try a little dry lube to see if that helps first.
Quoted from Lermods:Likely the plastic gears are worn.
Thank you for your reply. I will check the gears. I am guessing a visuel inspection will give a good idea about the state of the gears.
The gears looked fine.
So I decided to take out the motor control board, to reflow all of it. When I did that, the big square resistor on the Ted part of the board fell of when I heated up one of the solder joints. Turned out one of the legs on the resistor had snapped. That was why it fell out when heating up the solder on the other side of the component. So I guess the connection have been intermittent, causing the mouth to not always close fully.
I have fixed it now, and played 6-7 games on it. And so far I seems to work as intended.
So it seems Ted is fully up and running again
Anyone in need of a blade drive rod?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9238
They're sold out at Marco, so I bit the bullet and ordered 1 from pinballspareparts.com.au. Then I figured I might as well get a backup. Then I saw that I could order 5 for the exact same price as 2. So I have 3 extras arriving in the mail today.
If I don't get any takers, I might just send them to Marco.
Quoted from stevevt:Anyone in need of a blade drive rod?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9238
They're sold out at Marco, so I bit the bullet and ordered 1 from pinballspareparts.com.au. Then I figured I might as well get a backup. Then I saw that I could order 5 for the exact same price as 2. So I have 3 extras arriving in the mail today.
If I don't get any takers, I might just send them to Marco.
One taker so far. Anyone else need one of these things?
Quoted from stevevt:Anyone in need of a blade drive rod?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9238
They're sold out at Marco, so I bit the bullet and ordered 1 from pinballspareparts.com.au. Then I figured I might as well get a backup. Then I saw that I could order 5 for the exact same price as 2. So I have 3 extras arriving in the mail today.
If I don't get any takers, I might just send them to Marco.
Two takers so far, and I have 3 left even though I'm keeping 2 for myself.
This is possible because they shipped me 6 instead of the 5 that I ordered.
Anyone else need one?
Back in the club. How do I get my hands on the Soren chip? That looks like a must. Is anyone selling the chip?
Quoted from mozach:Back in the club. How do I get my hands on the Soren chip? That looks like a must. Is anyone selling the chip?
Got mine from hobbyroms.com
Quoted from Rensh:My friend is rebuilding and had lit up the eyes of Red and Ted. Quite nice.[quoted image]
Looks cool, kinda creepy with the light up eyes. Makes me think about the Zoltar machine from the movie Big.
Quoted from stevevt:Anyone in need of a blade drive rod?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9238
They're sold out at Marco, so I bit the bullet and ordered 1 from pinballspareparts.com.au. Then I figured I might as well get a backup. Then I saw that I could order 5 for the exact same price as 2. So I have 3 extras arriving in the mail today.
If I don't get any takers, I might just send them to Marco.
All extras are now spoken for.
Quoted from soren:The originally posted patch is obsolete. Use this one instead.
Road Show
Rev L-6 patch ccd1
Download link: https://tinyurl.com/y2uyptzw
Please read the Readme and follow the patch guide carefully.
This link no longer works, is it somewhere else?
Owner since 2017. Still love it
Lawlor is my favorite designer. They don't make pins like this anymore
I modded a bunch of additional lites on mine. Now it shines bright!!!!!
Love colordmd on this game !!! In almost three years I've only had one part break !!! Very durable !
15850893616344856012023055629051 (resized).jpg15850894170253575904169235725998 (resized).jpg15850894355347549361010311554403 (resized).jpg15850894517684966100292185623645 (resized).jpgAnyone spotlight their roadshow “map” area? I find it’s the only dark spot on my game that looks like it could use some extra light. Love to see some pics.
I’ve owned mine since December, since then I’ve put a colorDMD in, changed out all the GI/back box to comet frosted sunlights, and replaced some of the inserts with different LEDs (green map!). Backbox matrix lighting...Oh...and the best mod yet - Sorens ROM.
Love this game, I think it’s seriously underrated.
A4B58D26-093B-4443-9B9C-FB910C32C6E1 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pugster:Anyone spotlight their roadshow “map” area? I find it’s the only dark spot on my game that looks like it could use some extra light. Love to see some pics.
I’ve added a few spotlights. My other games have Pinstadiums but I don’t think this one needs it. I took the ColorDMD out to put it in Dr Who. I need to get another one!
12298BA3-168C-43C9-ACED-A30F5EB55CA4 (resized).jpeg25A72025-3C2A-40B7-98BD-5073685C4446.jpeg2A2C1EF4-E142-4999-B046-9EEE526FE02C (resized).jpeg33EC7AF9-9861-4C91-A2DB-03A6E7D28C83.jpegThanks...great topper!
I’m thinking I’ll put together a comet order here at some point and give them a whirl. I live in Canada so whenever I put together an order I have to “make it worth it” which means I inevitably end up spending way more than I intended. Just wish comet sold titan rubber and pingulps or vice versa
Quoted from Pugster:Thanks...great topper!
I’m thinking I’ll put together a comet order here at some point and give them a whirl. I live in Canada so whenever I put together an order I have to “make it worth it” which means I inevitably end up spending way more than I intended. Just wish comet sold titan rubber and pingulps or vice versa
Yeah i got the spotlights as part of the “full” led conversion kit for my STTNG but it didn’t need them with the Pinstadiums. The topper I would have preferred a bulldozer but couldn’t find anything at the right size that was priced reasonably. So it was Amazon to the rescue with this RC loader.
Quoted from MrMikeman:I’ve added a few spotlights. My other games have Pinstadiums but I don’t think this one needs it. I took the ColorDMD out to put it in Dr Who. I need to get another one!
What are the details on the lights on the topper? Where did you get them and how tall are they? Make & model? Thanks
Quoted from OTRChief:What are the details on the lights on the topper? Where did you get them and how tall are they? Make & model? Thanks
Depends on what you want I guess. “Modern” rotating beacons have no moving parts and they just sequence LEDs to give the appearance of rotation. I wanted old school rotating beacons with a real motor. This is what I got:
ebay.com link: Breakdown Amber Flashing Orange Beacon Recovery Truck Light Rotating 12V
They are 6” high.
I still need to wire them. Got a pinsound with shaker controller board to control the topper but when looking into the programming I noticed the accessory port(relay) to turn on the topper works like the shaker. It’s only on for a set amount of time. This doesn’t work for me. Looking into an alternate way to control it. I basically want it on for the 3rd lock and during multiball.
Quoted from smiley:This link no longer works, is it somewhere else?
Its on the IPDB
Quoted from MrMikeman:I still need to wire them.
Thank you for your response. If you figure out a good way to wire them let the group know.
Quoted from Piso:2-1/2" for the slingshot
I used 2 1/2 on mine, they seem to fit fine.
Quoted from Piso:I'm ordering some new rubbers for my RS. Most kits says 2-1/2" for the slingshot like I currently have mounted. But they feel a bit to sloppy to me. RS manual says 2". Should I trust the manual? What have you used?
I just re-did the rubbers on my RS 4 days ago. I bought the kit from PCX Pinball. Kit is complete and the slingshot rubbers don't feel sloppy at all.
Quoted from Moli410:I just re-did the rubbers on my RS 4 days ago. I bought the kit from PCX Pinball. Kit is complete and the slingshot rubbers don't feel sloppy at all.
I did buy the same white kit from PCX Pinball last month. Like the seller say I probably have a bad batch and most rubber are wearing after only 50 games. They are really soft. That's why I'm changing all again, will try silicone this time. They came with 2-1/2" slingshot rubber and they felt sloppy and thicker from the beginning. Sometimes the ball stops when entering the left inlane because the rubbers are too thick and not stretched enough.
Quoted from Piso:I'm ordering some new rubbers for my RS. Most kits says 2-1/2" for the slingshot like I currently have mounted. But they feel a bit to sloppy to me. RS manual says 2". Should I trust the manual? What have you used?
I have 2 1/2” silicone on mine, seems fine, they do make a 2 1/4” ring, but 2” would be too tight
anyone have the latest code? (the modified one) can't seem to locate it on the previous post listed here.
Quoted from monkfe:anyone have the latest code? (the modified one) can't seem to locate it on the previous post listed here.
You can find it on ipdb. I had mine burnt by hobbyroms.com. No longer have an eprom programmer.
Quoted from MrMikeman:You can find it on ipdb. I had mine burnt by hobbyroms.com. No longer have an eprom programmer.
got it...thanks....So the latest code was 6 and the patch was for that version correct?
Quoted from monkfe:got it...thanks....So the latest code was 6 and the patch was for that version correct?
Yep
Hi, does anyone have a good scan image of the outhole fish? I need it for a playfield repair. Thank you
Quoted from Piso:Hi, does anyone have a good scan image of the outhole fish? I need it for a playfield repair. Thank you
Quoted from Davi:[quoted image]
Thank you
Quoted from JodyG:Pulled my ramps today, which can only mean one thing... New ramps are coming soon![quoted image][quoted image]
Are you going to reproduce them? If yes, count me in
Quoted from JodyG:Pulled my ramps today, which can only mean one thing... New ramps are coming soon![quoted image][quoted image]
Count me in too Jody! Are you able to reproduce them in yellow as well? The decals maybe tough to find!
Hi, I just replaced TED eyes plungers without completely remove the head. This is what I did:
- removed the cover behind the left ramp bridge out sing to get better access to TED left face screws
- remove TED hat
- removed all 4 screws to remove TED face and back of head
- unscrewed all 4 screws that hold the horizontal coil in place to be able to free the horizontal plunger from its guide
- undo the eyelid from their mounting position so they are free
- lift up the vertical plunger in order to be able to rotate the eyelids backward so to release them from the vertical plunger
- now both plunger are free and can be removed
It is a bit fiddly but it can be done. I had to make a custom screwdriver in order to undo the lateral screws. Sorry but I didn't take any photos. Hope this can help someone
IMG_20200414_124447 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Moli410:Does anyone know what LED 555 bulb will fit in the start and extra ball buttons?
I bought these https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/cabinet-parts/startbuttons/3114/startbutton-led-white
Hello everyone im New on pinside and wanted to ask something for my roadshow pinball i have the pin since a year now and i cant get enough of it it's my All time Favorite pin now to my question
I saw in this Club roadshow machines which had verry realistik looking eyes where can i buy those they look great O.o
Greetings from germany
Great work, first road show repro ramps I've seen! Is it the picture or is the plastic a bit thinner than the original ramps?
I have disassembled Red and I found out that I don't have the centering flange on the coil that open her eyes. If someone has a spare could you please give me the correct dimension in order to be able to print one with my 3D printer? Thank you
Quoted from Piso:Great work, first road show repro ramps I've seen! Is it the picture or is the plastic a bit thinner than the original ramps?
Good eye...I'm running some slightly thinner plastic right now because that's what I can get and have for other parts, but production ramps will be 1/8" material, as original.
Actually, I'm wrong. These were made from .100" material...which is what I was running...I'm guessing it's a bit of an optical illusion. I may still try to get .125" material if possible though. You can measure all over the ramp and see places it will stretch down to .040" in places...it all depends on how and where the plastic stretches to the mold.
20200422_183322 (resized).jpgQuoted from Piso:I have disassembled Red and I found out that I don't have the centering flange on the coil that open her eyes. If someone has a spare could you please give me the correct dimension in order to be able to print one with my 3D printer? Thank you
You can PM me your mail and I ll send you the file to print it.
Quoted from JodyG:Actually, I'm wrong. These were made from .100" material...which is what I was running...I'm guessing it's a bit of an optical illusion. I may still try to get .125" material if possible though. You can measure all over the ramp and see places it will stretch down to .040" in places...it all depends on how and where the plastic stretches to the mold.[quoted image]
They way you have made your mould is the finished ramp thicker at the bottom where the ball rolls or on top (printing the ramp upside down)?
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