(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)

By webdiddy

10 years ago


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There are 4,081 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 82.
#1451 5 years ago

That fish decal. Is called an fish decal overlay. I have seen them for sale. Try googling it. Can't remember but I saw a few places selling them.

#1452 5 years ago

Thought I would also mention. When adjusting the Eddy sensor pots. I think it is best. To use a plastic blade, like old school television service tool.

1 week later
#1453 5 years ago

I was able to get the eddy board working well and have been able to get the bulldozer to work as well. The jaws on both Red and Ted still do not work but havent looked into them to much yet. I am working on getting the shaker motor working next and have been able to get it working but it is violent and seems like it is unbalanced or something.

I have my Road Show next to an Earthshaker and the Earthshaker motor is much smoother and vibrates the machine. The Road Show shaker is sporadic and sounds like beating a piece of metal almost. I tried to post a video of it but couldnt get the video to upload. Should I expect the shaker motor to be similar to Earthshaker or is Road Show shaker just a violent shaker?

#1454 5 years ago

The shaker on this game is a lot more intense than other games, it is possible though, the channels the playfield glass slides into are a bit worn and you are getting rattle from the playfield glass. I added a strip of electrical tape to both edges of my glass to cut down the noise a bit.

Here is a clip from an old twitch stream I did, you can hear the motor firing off a bunch.

#1455 5 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

The shaker on this game is a lot more intense than other games, it is possible though, the channels the playfield glass slides into are a bit worn and you are getting rattle from the playfield glass. I added a strip of electrical tape to both edges of my glass to cut down the noise a bit.
Here is a clip from an old twitch stream I did, you can hear the motor firing off a bunch. » YouTube video

Thanks for the clip. The shaker sounds just like it does on my machine which surprises me. With Earthshaker, it is a much smoother vibration (but stronger vibration), Road Show just sounds unbalanced or off. But at least this confirms that my shaker motor works as it should (just like yours in the video) and I need to decide if i want it on or off. Thanks for the clip Purplemunkydishw

#1456 5 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

I am working on getting the shaker motor working next and have been able to get it working but it is violent and seems like it is unbalanced or something. Should I expect the shaker motor to be similar to Earthshaker or is Road Show shaker just a violent shaker?

Mine was the same, my house is built on a slab, and I was worried that over time, the legs would jackhammer through the floor! I did 5 different things just to get mine to about the same intensity as my Earthshaker...
1. Removed one the 2 counterweights.
2. Put 2 star post rubbers on each of the bolts between the housing and cab.
3. Removed bracket that attaches the motor assembly to the side of the cab.
4. Added a 100 ohm ceramic resistor to lower motor voltage as much as possible without damaging the motor.
5. Put it on the lowest setting in the menu.

Eventually I will make 2 custom counterweights that will resolve the entire issue by itself, but its more complicated a project than it sounds.

#1457 5 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Mine was the same, my house is built on a slab, and I was worried that over time, the legs would jackhammer through the floor! I did 5 different things just to get mine to about the same intensity as my Earthshaker...
1. Removed one the 2 counterweights.
2. Put 2 star post rubbers on each of the bolts between the housing and cab.
3. Removed bracket that attaches the motor assembly to the side of the cab.
4. Added a 100 ohm ceramic resistor to lower motor voltage as much as possible without damaging the motor.
5. Put it on the lowest setting in the menu.
Eventually I will make 2 custom counterweights that will resolve the entire issue by itself, but its more complicated a project than it sounds.

Great suggestions. Is it possible to put an Earthshaker motor in Road Show? I am not sure if it is the settings of the machine to make it "shake" the way it does or if it is the motor itself but Earthshaker has a great shake to it, would be nice to emulate it on Road Show.

I will remove one of the counterweights tonight and get a couple of post rubbers on the bolts as well. The shake does not bother me but the way it shakes really sounds like something is off but oh well. Will try a few things to see if i can make the shake more enjoyable as i really enjoy the shaker motor on Earthshaker.

#1458 5 years ago

have you tried adjusting the shaker via the settings menu (only possible with >v5)?

#1459 5 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

have you tried adjusting the shaker via the settings menu (only possible with >v5)?

Yes, have made adjustments through it and it definitely lowers the violence of the motor, but it isnt a smooth shake like it is on other machines. It shakes as if it is off balance and just doesnt seem right, but looking and listening to videos, i guess that is how the motor is suppose to work

#1460 5 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

Great suggestions. Is it possible to put an Earthshaker motor in Road Show?

It's the same motor.

#1461 5 years ago

I think the idea is the Shaker is supposed to approximate a bulldozer running, so its supposed to be a bit rough. I think its part of the charm.

#1462 5 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

I think the idea is the Shaker is supposed to approximate a bulldozer running, so its supposed to be a bit rough. I think its part of the charm.

Makes sense. Ill add the rubber post and do a couple of things to try to take the violence out of it. Dont get me wrong, I do like it, but when it really gets going, just sounds like something isnt working correctly but like you said, part of the charm.

#1463 5 years ago

RS shaker is the most thought through shaker of any game out there. It activates only at certain times, the intensity varies depending on the mode. It's awesome!

Much better than the modern Sterns that shake for the sake of shaking.

#1464 5 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Mine was the same, my house is built on a slab, and I was worried that over time, the legs would jackhammer through the floor! I did 5 different things just to get mine to about the same intensity as my Earthshaker...
1. Removed one the 2 counterweights.
2. Put 2 star post rubbers on each of the bolts between the housing and cab.
3. Removed bracket that attaches the motor assembly to the side of the cab.
4. Added a 100 ohm ceramic resistor to lower motor voltage as much as possible without damaging the motor.
5. Put it on the lowest setting in the menu.
Eventually I will make 2 custom counterweights that will resolve the entire issue by itself, but its more complicated a project than it sounds.

Why not just remove the shaker altogether, yeesh! You're taking out some of the excitement of the game.

If you think regular play shakes the game, wait until you get to Super Payday!

3 weeks later
#1465 5 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Why not just remove the shaker altogether, yeesh! You're taking out some of the excitement of the game.
If you think regular play shakes the game, wait until you get to Super Payday!

My RS came without the shaker, and they guy that sold it to me if I liked the machine I would not add it back in. Regarding all the minor issues I had with the optos, I think he's right. Anyways, new to pinside, hi!

I got sent here from a german board, because I really need a cover for that left ramp. I had to remove the top left flasher, due to the fact that I'm constantly shooting it off. I hope TheOnlyest can help me out here

#1466 5 years ago

Hey guys, I went to play my RS after not having played it for a while, and when it turned on all the coils fired (all the flippers at the same time) and then the fuse at 112 solenoid secondary blew. I replaced with another 7A slow blow and it blew again. Popped the hood and had a look, everything looks fine, any ideas of where I should start looking? Thanks in advance.

#1467 5 years ago


I miss my roadshow guys I’m jealous of all of you. I spent 4500 on her. Colordmd new everything pretty much leds and and led ocd board perfectly tuned in. I’m kicking myself for selling this one for 3750 but was going thru a divorce and had to. Maybe someday I’ll get an even nicer one. Side note I’ve sold many games over the years and this one in paticular has a special place in my heart. Enjoy the video. Cheers!!

#1468 5 years ago

Anybody know where to purchase the A-19359 BLADE OPTO INTERRUPTER BOARD ?

Looks to be sold out everywhere and haven't heard back from Great Lakes Modular.

Thanks

#1469 5 years ago

Picked up a ColorDMD over the weekend for my RoadShow. It seemed pretty easy to install and i followed the instructions on colordmd.com but can not get the firmware to load.

When I initiate the USB Download, I read the "Prog" will light up and take about 30 seconds or so and it is completed when the "Done" light turns on. My "Prog" button keeps blinking and the "INIT" light is lit.

For step 15, I push the far right button and get display options (contrast, brightness, etc) but i do not get the "mounting" menu and select "WPC". What am i doing wrong or any suggestions?

Color DMD (resized).JPGColor DMD (resized).JPGcolor dmd chip (resized).JPGcolor dmd chip (resized).JPGcolor dmd chip 2 (resized).JPGcolor dmd chip 2 (resized).JPG
#1470 5 years ago

I have had a similar issue before, I would recommend trying a different thumb drive, and make sure the Colour DMD file is the only thing on the drive.

#1471 5 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I have had a similar issue before, I would recommend trying a different thumb drive, and make sure the Colour DMD file is the only thing on the drive.

OK, the drive is empty other than the DMD file. I have other drives i can use, just have to find one. Will try that today.

#1472 5 years ago

for you guys removing counter weights to reduce the rumble...maybe you should instead think of turning the counter weights in opposite directions so that the vibrations cancel themselves....

#1473 5 years ago

How big is your flash drive? I think I had an issue with using one before because it was over 8gb in capacity. That could be your issue.

#1474 5 years ago
Quoted from Capinball:

How big is your flash drive? I think I had an issue with using one before because it was over 8gb in capacity. That could be your issue.

I tried a 2GB and a 4GB. I have more at work that i will try when i get home

#1475 5 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

What am i doing wrong or any suggestions?

Did you start by holding the left button down for five seconds?

#1476 5 years ago

Make sure file is named exactly as the instructions state. I had the same issue and my file name was wrong.

Dan

#1477 5 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

Picked up a ColorDMD over the weekend for my RoadShow. It seemed pretty easy to install and i followed the instructions on colordmd.com but can not get the firmware to load.
When I initiate the USB Download, I read the "Prog" will light up and take about 30 seconds or so and it is completed when the "Done" light turns on. My "Prog" button keeps blinking and the "INIT" light is lit.
For step 15, I push the far right button and get display options (contrast, brightness, etc) but i do not get the "mounting" menu and select "WPC". What am i doing wrong or any suggestions?

That's an older model display, so make sure you're downloading from the correct page for older displays and naming the file COLORDMD.ROM.

#1478 5 years ago
Quoted from CollinT:

Anybody know where to purchase the A-19359 BLADE OPTO INTERRUPTER BOARD ?
Looks to be sold out everywhere and haven't heard back from Great Lakes Modular.
Thanks

FWIW - I tired of waiting to find the board. There isn't much on that board as you can see. One of my optos was acting up (passing test perfectly but I think when the shaker started rumbling it would cause it to glitch) just replaced one opto and I am 100% again.

(this was causing my dozer to not go up and down during multiball - occasionally stutter but mostly not work and opto replacement fixed it)

#1479 5 years ago
Quoted from Duvall:

FWIW - I tired of waiting to find the board. There isn't much on that board as you can see. One of my optos was acting up (passing test perfectly but I think when the shaker started rumbling it would cause it to glitch) just replaced one opto and I am 100% again.
(this was causing my dozer to not go up and down during multiball - occasionally stutter but mostly not work and opto replacement fixed it)

Thanks, that's what I plan on doing as you can still buy that part from Marco. On Pinwiki it said 98% of the time, that's the problem.

#1480 5 years ago

Fixed, one of my connectors was loose.

Roadshow1 (resized).jpgRoadshow1 (resized).jpgRoadshow2 (resized).jpgRoadshow2 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#1481 5 years ago

Can anyone help me out with the bracket that hold the gears etc. for Red's jaw? Red has never been able to speak on my Road Show and after much trouble shooting it turned out to be the wrong bracket fitted (it has a Funhouse) .. Does anyone know where I can get the correct bracket for it? I havent been able to source one. My other alternative is to fabricate one myself....

#1482 5 years ago
Quoted from chinosts:

Can anyone help me out with the bracket that hold the gears etc. for Red's jaw? Red has never been able to speak on my Road Show and after much trouble shooting it turned out to be the wrong bracket fitted (it has a Funhouse) .. Does anyone know where I can get the correct bracket for it? I havent been able to source one. My other alternative is to fabricate one myself....

Which bracket? I believe the only bracket not shown here is the "pivot bracket" 02-5083.1

red head (resized).jpgred head (resized).jpg
#1483 5 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Which bracket? I believe the only bracket not shown here is the "pivot bracket" 02-5083.1

Hey lurch .. Yes the "pivot bracket" 02-5083.1 is the one I am referring to. My apologies, I should of included a picture in my previous post. Please see the picture that I have attached to this message. This is the pivot bracket that was installed in my machine when I bought it. It is the bracket from Funhouse and despite having some similarities it does not work as a replacement. The side that the motor was designed to mount to was reversed to allow for the playfield switch that would otherwise be in the way. I am not sure if it is just my bracket or this bracket in general but the gears do not move smoothly when the motor is on the other side which means the mouth does not move.

I've tried moving where the bracket attaches to the otherside of the playfield but I also cannot get this to work correctly. I thought perhaps I could make another bracket either by metal work or 3d printing but I really need to have the dimensions of the bracket before I can do that.

Any help would be extremely appreciated.
Cheers,

pivotbracket (resized).jpgpivotbracket (resized).jpg
#1484 5 years ago

hummm.... looks almost identical from what i can see. I will be under the playfield later this week working on mine and will grab some more photos and measurements.

meanwhile here is a side-by-side of the assemblies from the manuals
funhouse (resized).jpgfunhouse (resized).jpgroadshow part (resized).jpgroadshow part (resized).jpg

Gears, Motor, Screws... all the same, except the bracket. I would try adjusting the mounting location, im willing to bet thats what the issue is. Maybe use a push pin (tap in with hammer) to hold it temporarily while testing. From what i can tell, it looks like they only made a different bracket to allow for the insert that this mounts next to.

Mat

#1485 5 years ago

@MAJRob
I'd venture to guess that one of your trough optos is giving trouble. Check for cold solder joints and/or dirt on the opto units. Also check the header pins on the board as well as the IDC connector that plugs into it.

And now I'm in the club! Yes, the machine was properly folded and tied down during transit, but I had to snap a photo with the important details showing. Wish I had put it on the cardboard first - it was imamaculate.

IMG_20180722_151109225 (resized).jpgIMG_20180722_151109225 (resized).jpg
#1486 5 years ago

All right then, so first question of my own. Is there any one likely point of failure that would prevent the flashers from working? All voltage LEDs are on in the backbox, the power driver 12V connector shows voltage, and the return from flasher to aux driver board shows continuity. Just checking if anybody knows of something that could come disconnected (or would likely be broken) before I brave the jungle and try to trace the individual power wire.

#1487 5 years ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

Is there any one likely point of failure that would prevent the flashers from working?

Yes, a fuse.

#1488 5 years ago

Yep, checked those - all of them are good.

#1489 5 years ago

In my RS it was the ASIC that caused the flashers to do all kind of funny stuff. Pressing it into its socket did the magic.

#1490 5 years ago

Anyone have an old Opto board for the dozer they want to sell? I can't find the replacement and the one in our machine is from GLM and doesn't work. I can fix the original with new opto's. THanks

#1491 5 years ago
Quoted from CollinT:

Anyone have an old Opto board for the dozer they want to sell? I can't find the replacement and the one in our machine is from GLM and doesn't work. I can fix the original with new opto's. THanks

GLM= Great Lakes Modular (had to look that up, I forgot about them!)

Anyways, you can either try getting another from GLM (as they seem to be the only people with stock) or replacing the sensor itself but it doesn't appear to be using a standard opto...... Looks like its a GP1A17 sensor.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/160-0005-00

#1492 5 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

GLM= Great Lakes Modular (had to look that up, I forgot about them!)
Anyways, you can either try getting another from GLM (as they seem to be the only people with stock) or replacing the sensor itself but it doesn't appear to be using a standard opto...... Looks like its a GP1A17 sensor.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/160-0005-00

Thanks, we've tried to get in touch with GLM but no response. I already tried putting the optos for the old board in the GLM board but messed it up trying to get the old ones out.

#1493 5 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

hummm.... looks almost identical from what i can see. I will be under the playfield later this week working on mine and will grab some more photos and measurements.
meanwhile here is a side-by-side of the assemblies from the manuals
[quoted image][quoted image]
Gears, Motor, Screws... all the same, except the bracket. I would try adjusting the mounting location, im willing to bet thats what the issue is. Maybe use a push pin (tap in with hammer) to hold it temporarily while testing. From what i can tell, it looks like they only made a different bracket to allow for the insert that this mounts next to.
Mat

Hey @lurch....

Its definitely the mount position but there is just no way I can mount this bracket because there is no room for the motor to fit. The motor was mounted on the right side of the bracket when I got it but of course this meant the gears didnt work correctly. When the motor is mounted on the left everything moves smoothly but I can not fit it into the machine.

I really need the correct bracket for the game

#1494 5 years ago

I have RS and Funhouse. The brackets are... not really the same. RS version is more complicated.

#1495 5 years ago

Funhouse

20180728_131216 (resized).jpg20180728_131216 (resized).jpg20180728_131218 (resized).jpg20180728_131218 (resized).jpg20180728_131223 (resized).jpg20180728_131223 (resized).jpg
#1496 5 years ago

Road Show

20180728_130930 (resized).jpg20180728_130930 (resized).jpg20180728_130939 (resized).jpg20180728_130939 (resized).jpg20180728_130947 (resized).jpg20180728_130947 (resized).jpg
#1497 5 years ago
Quoted from chinosts:

Hey lurch....
Its definitely the mount position but there is just no way I can mount this bracket because there is no room for the motor to fit. The motor was mounted on the right side of the bracket when I got it but of course this meant the gears didnt work correctly. When the motor is mounted on the left everything moves smoothly but I can not fit it into the machine.
I really need the correct bracket for the game

Call them
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/red-and-teds-road-show/02-5083-1.html

#1499 5 years ago

New problem popped up over the weekend but I am thinking it is an easy fix. During game play, the game resets. It happens at different time from when you plunge the ball to start the game, when it hits the blast zone, bulldozer blade, etc. Any ideas of where i should look first to diagnose the issue?

#1500 5 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

New problem popped up over the weekend but I am thinking it is an easy fix. During game play, the game resets. It happens at different time from when you plunge the ball to start the game, when it hits the blast zone, bulldozer blade, etc. Any ideas of where i should look first to diagnose the issue?

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

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