If it's 1/2" x 1" I'd say it would work just fine.

I ordered one. Mike at PBL said it would work.

Gonna LED my RS soon ANyone have suggestion on GI color, accent colors, something they can share a pic of and get me something to think about.
Thanks .

For GI stick with either cool or warm white depending on where you are putting them. Don't use colors for GI there is already enough color in the game, use color LEDS for under coloured inserts to make them pop more. When I received my game I changed all the GI this way and it made the game brighter and more attractive.

I prefer cool white as the game's color scheme tends to be more blueish, and it seems to go well with everything. But yeah, just say no to color GI. I tried blue in mine when I first got it in a few areas, but it just clashes and doesn't look good at all, plus it tends to blow out the artwork.

I did add some color by lighting the inside edge of the ramps using comet strips:

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And a couple of spots on the slingshots.

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In Case some of you want my new target decals
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/01459-road-show-target-decals

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Does anyone know when the yellow dome below the radio is supposed to illuminate? It is not listed in the manual lamp or flasher locations and does not light up through lamp, flasher, or GI tests.

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According to the manual, the bulb on the radio (555) and the 44 bulb under the playfield where the word radio is are connected together and are triggered by lamp matrix 43. Row 3 column 4 in the lamp matrix.

He's meaning the flasher, to the right of the shooter lane there. I don't have a copy of the manual to look it up.

Thanks for the GI suggestions , I'll just use cool white and not get too crazy.
One question though , warm white or yellow under yellow inserts? Seems yellow bulbs look bad under yellow, been a while since I've done a game.

Thanks.

Flashes with the jets fiasher , menu #44 in flasher test . It's an 906 bulb I believe .

BTW: not in manual .

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If it's supposed to flash with 44 I'll check the wiring. I couldn't find it in the manual either, the circle for the location is there though.

I typically will use warm white on yellow inserts, unless I want to "change" the color of the yellow a bit which I've done in the past. Sometimes cool whites will enhance the color a bit. But on my RS, I just did warm whites in the yellows. I DO like using the cool whites on the clear inserts. I prefer the white look more than the yellow from warms. Cool whites in the GI on this game really brightens it up. Makes it easier to see IMO

If it doesn’t have lastability for you, I have a T3 or a JP I would trade you towards it.

If there was ever a case for “sunlight” GI this is it. It takes place outside on roads with a bulldozer.

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Here is the page I am referring to that shows the radio light. See #43, it references two lights. I was assuming the question was the light on the radio and not the flasher under the playfield, which you referenced.

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The yellow dome in question is actually directly below the right 43 (which is the radio light) and is illustrated in the manual with a larger circle in both the lamp and flasher location maps but is unidentified on both. I've made some markups on the attached photos to help communicate the lamp in question.

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I used Blue for my Gi and it looks fkin amazing. I know a bunch of other road shows with blue gi. Personal preference most people will go with white for GI

Wow, blue ! I have some spare blue 44's , could play with them some when changing it out . I did that with WH2O, didn't work out too great

My mistake, I thought you were asking about the actual radio. I put my machine in flasher test mode and included a photo of what is identified when mine flash’s. It appears to be tied to the jets flasher located between the pop bumpers below the playfield.

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Thanks, that's a 2nd opinion on flasher #44 so I'll go check the wiring...and mark up my manual accordingly.

Have any pics? I did some blue to the right and under the radio to go with the blue plastic. Colors it up a little bit w/o overkill. Didn't see many other areas that blue would work real well. May do some more testing. Like to see one all blue

When I tried the blue, it totally blew out all the other colors on the plastics and playfield art. Made anything that wasn't blue look black.

You better give that kid back before you get in trouble.................
OH, you mean the Roadshow.

Checked the wiring and it was just fine...but discovered someone (possibly me ) stuck a normal bulb in rather than a flasher. Made the change and all is good. Did make a note this guy is tied to 44 though.

This game really reminds me of Funhouse. Not just because of the talking heads but things like the right inlane and second plunger on the left.

I was having trouble with the sensors in front of the bulldozer losing sensitivity, or quitting altogether, and I had to adjust the pots on the eddy boards frequently to get the sensors working again. I did some Pinside research and it seems that the problem is with the 10K pot on the eddy board getting worn and moving as a result of vibration from game play and the shaker. I replaced the old pots with a type of Bourns potentiometer that requires 25 turns on the adjusting screw to go from 0 to 10K ohms versus about 3/4 of a turn on the old one for the same range. My thinking is that the adjustment is not only more accurate, but they should be much less prone to movement from the shaking. Time will tell but it is working out great so far.

Note that the white goo in the picture is silicone that will be clear when it cures.

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Very nice! Please follow up to let us know the long-term success but sounds awesome.

Source/cost of the new pot?

Good deal! Glad you figured it out!

I purchased mine on eBay for $1 each (three required) and a small shipping charge. Be careful with eBay as there are a lot of generic ones that look just like the Bourns package (hopefully I didn't purchase a counterfeit!). I'm sure they would also be available from Digikey and Jameco (I haven't looked). The ones I purchased had the mounting pins all in a row. There is a package with the middle pin offset that might work slightly better for mounting. I had to solder on an extender to the middle pin to get it to the mounting hole (not a big deal).

Please note that if you mount these, you might need to turn the screw counter-clockwise a fair number of turns to get the LED to light. Each turn changes the resistance a relatively small amount since it takes 25 turns to go from 0 to 10K ohms. Once the LED is lit, turn the screw clockwise until it goes out and you should be set.

Good idea, thanks for sharing. I will try 3296 series, that looks more convenient (adjustment at top).

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I am looking for a topper for my RS. Preferably one with the road construction lights that tie into the gameplay. But open to any. Where to find? Any vendors sell them? Figured I'd start here.

I second that. I have not seen a nice topper for sale. I think you'll find nobody has made any in a while

Hello Everyone,

I just picked up a RS a couple of days ago, and this is the first weekend that I'm going through it. And discovered a couple of issues, that i need help with.

Issue 1: The lights behind the back glass, half of them are lighting up the other half are not. Here is what I noticed, during game play the half that is not working are off, but as soon as the game is over. That half comes on but flashing on and off and its very dim. I have traced those half from the back side to be the Brown and brown / white wires, which goes to J120-1 and J120-7 to the power driver board. Looking at youtube videos of other RS, they are all on.

Issue 2: "Red", Usually when a ball hits her mouth it will say thing like "What have I ever did to you", "Cheeseburger", Etc...Well no balls are ever near her while I'm playing the game and she will start saying all these things and I get points for them. Also if I do get a ball in her mouth, she does not say "How do you eat these things" and I have to wait while the system starts popping at everything to locate the ball.

Issue 3: "Ted", on the first round of shooting the ball in his mouth for Multiball, the dozer keeps going up and down. I know this is suppose to happen in the 3rd or 4th round, but not the first round. Also at random times during the game the dozer goes up and down, and sometimes I get a ball caught back there and I have to wait.

Issue 4: If I have the game turned off for a while and then turn it on, the alternating Red LED's for Bridge Out does flash back and forth. But after a few minutes they slow down and fade out. As if the power was being turned down and off.

Issue 5: Upper left flipper and middle left flipper, if I do a Solenoid flipper test they appear to work perfectly. But in game mode when the left flipper button pressed. The flipper does extend out, but it takes about a second or two to retract.

Otherwise, I can play the game.

Any help is appreciated, Thank You.

Might need to ask in new thread, but I'll try to help.
There are folks much smarter than me here, but I'll give you a starting point . Issue 2&3 are similar issues. Under the pf there is a small green board ( 3/4"x 3" if I remember right ) right under where the ball would travel to reds mouth or the bulldozer blade. It senses the ball by a magnet , and knows it's there. It has a small adjustment pot on it, use a Jewlers screwdriver and adjust to the point just where the red led indicator light turns off. Don't touch the screwdriver to anything by accident, cover all but the tip with black tape if need be .

Issue 5, might be EOS switch, or might be dirty opto on cabinet mounted flipper switch .
Clean the opto with a q tip . Check flipper switches in switch test in diagnostic. Swap flipper switches and see if problem goes away, or changes sides, there are no upper flippers on the right side so it might fix it.

That's it for me, hope it gets u started .

Joey P

I made my own and you can see my detailed write up here

http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/red-teds-roadshow-interactive-dual-beacon-topper.4002/

Your before pic seems awfully dark compared to mine. And I don't have pinstadium installed on mine. Yours look much brighter now..

Before pic is unrealistic. I know it is hard to take a good pic, but it is not real.
If you like Pinstadium, enjoy. I don't like it, it is an outrage against charm of pinball.

Here's a pic of mine. No pinstadium, but have some LEDs in there

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Other than a little blue LED at the radio, is the rest just bright white in the GI?

Yep, cool whites in the GI, 4 frosted blues next to the radio, and LEDs in various inserts.

Respectfully - FWIW - I do not recall my PF that dark even when I had incandescent light. RoadShow is not a dark game. (and I play in the dark)

I wonder if you had some GI out? With bright high-output LEDs, I have no darkness on my game at all.