I talked to NinJaBooT about doing the Red & Teds Road Show. All the aprons are rusted due to lack of proper(?) paint.

Does anyone have the correct dimensions on the apron?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-magnet-mod

I've found that a lot of games have blinking disabled. Heard blinking is what kills the coils/eyes the fastest. Mines was disabled when i got it

I can prepare a drawing during the weekend.
I guess top view only is OK.

That would be great!

We need a magnetic apron for this game.

Sorry if this has already been answered in this thread but my Eddy sensor on the outside of the bulldozer is always acting up. I'll set the sensitivity and it'll work for a week, then it won't register. Seems like I need to open it up and adjust it almost weekly. Wondering is there something I can do to fix this or is there any benefit in replacing the eddy sensor board. It seems to work fine when it works... just constantly needs the sensitivity adjusted.

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_25&products_id=203

Not mine...which is really odd, since my game was stored really poorly by the operator I bought it from and it has a swollen backbox and bottom.

They really aren't bad at all. Nothing that actually requires ted's head to come out for service will keep you from playing the game either.

Treasure Cove has laminated decals for the Roadshow as well. Sand, remove rust, paint seal done.

i would rather have the magnetic apron, they look great

Hey everyone, I just finished changing out the GI to LED and now the whole left side (just the left side) is out. Other then that the game plays like usual. So I figure I must have broke a solder connection, or a loose wire finally fell off, but I can't find anything wrong. What is the best way to figure out what I messed up this time

Check your fuses. I had the same thing happened to me. I was changing my GI(with the game on) saw sparks and my whole right side was out. The culprit was a blown fuse. I didnt have a dmm so i had swapped the right and left side fuses. It's one of the 5 fuses by the arrow. I would start there

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Thank you, once again Pinside saves the day! F106 was the fuse that was blown.

With the repairs to the heads, I'm back in action. Gavin of Gavin's Games Services fixed the heads in a really short time. He had to take out both and I was surprised at how fast it was done. It looks like the "falling rocks" mode is now fixed also. I forgot to mention it to him but I've played 4 games and no problems. He played some games while testing and may have caught the problem. He also tweaked a few things on POTC for me.

If you have the parts for repair the heads can be fixed very quickly, especially if you have done them before.

I just received my shaker motor assembly arakissun from Bulgaria! I am going to install sometime this weekend. Mine was removed at some point, not sure which cable is supposed to hook up to the one end of the board? Did they remove the power cable for the shaker motor as well, i can't find it anywhere? Can someone tell me how I can get power to the shaker if the original cable has been removed?

In case that doesn't make a lot of sense, I am trying to find the cable that connects the shaker PDC board to the power driver board.

Ok here is where I believe the shaker was connected. Where can I get the cable that connects the PDC to the power driver board?

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And here is the other end that I need, am I going to have to build this myself?

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Ok so I guess I am answering my own questions but that's how I work. Are these the two connectors that I need to build this cable:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-09111-00
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-09104-00

What size cable should I use?

Ok 18awg, but now I am thinking this is what I should use for the 6 position connector:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-06

Do NOT use IDC. They are a pain in a$$, and when the connection starts to fail, intermittently, is will drive you bonkers.

What is the better choice?

I have done a bit of reading and although IDC isn't optimal it will work perfectly fine in this situation I think.

Yes, you'll obviously need to build this cable yourself, the 2 connectors you linked will work, but the 6-position flat molex is not an IDC connector, so you will have to also buy the proper pins for it. If you are able to properly punch an IDC connector, use that instead of the molex. Anyone who discourages using an IDC connector, is someone who isn't able to properly punch them down IMHO.
Be prepared to possibly address some other issues once you get this all together... It's possible that the entire shaker system was removed by some dumbass for a reason other than the game was jackhammering through the floor... In which case it could have simply been disabled in settings or disconnected.

oops, double post.

No. Anyone who doesn't recommend them hasn't been a real tech on games out in the field, where vibration and jarring loosens them over time, leaving you with issues that takes a long time ti diagnose because those connections - from factory - loosen and become intermittent.

Do it one with a Molex or TE Con plug, and if something starts to fail, you can rule out the connector, and look elsewhere.

Hmm, interesting... I've been a Williams factory trained and certified pinball tech since 1991, not to mention a degree in electronics, and have repaired thousands of pins in my 26 years. Perhaps I just don't understand the definition of a "real tech". And thanks for the reminder of why I am always reluctant to give advice in these club forums... 2 down.

Thanks again, I will go with the IDC connector and use the proper punch tool/watch a video on punching IDC connectors

Hey everyone.. I recently bought a Road Show and was loving it until my DMD died. I have a ColorDMD on order which hopefully will arrive this week! I also have an issue with RED talking that I already posted on Pinside but didnt get any replies. I will repeat the message below. I would really appreciate any help..

Cheers!

--
I bought a Road Show (which is an awesome pinball btw!) the other day which for the most part is a really nice machine. It does have one problem atm. Red's jaw doesn't open. I can see it moving very slightly to her words so I do know something is happening. I pulled out the jaw assembly and checked the gears etc which seem to be ok with nothing broken. I also pulled the board out and re-flowed the connectors for the mounted pins that the cable plugs into. Interestingly enough, when I put 9v direct through the cable the jaw opens and closes correctly. I suspect that this means that there is a problem with the board? TED is working correctly.
Cheers for any help anyone can give!
--

You might also want to check the Jaw motor is still working.

Does anyone know of the correct or updated rubber rings need for replacement on there road show? The manual has nothing listed.
Saw something on the titan site. Wanted to check to see if anyone else has ideas?

Don't use the list on Titan's site, it is missing a few, can't remember off the top of my head. Here is a screen shot I took of a list that looked pretty close to me. Can't remember where I took the shot from.

Screen Shot 2017-11-02 at 11.25.27 AM (resized).png

Did you see my response in post #1061?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/22#post-3968414

A few mods for the game: Antenna on radio, taxi cab and dozer on return land plastics, TNT on sticks on "dynomite." I did these a while ago. If you have that dynamite mod, clean out the thin plastic on the inside so the light will shine throughout. The vehicles are from Matchbox and match the pictures in the game well.

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Hey guys i started my game up and i now have a credit dot. Telling me to check switch 42 trough I have no idea what that means. Everything plays fine

Switch 42 is the second switch in from the shooter lane or maybe the last one before shooter lane. The book list it 2 different ways ways.
Those are optos in the trough which sense the balls and feeds the shooter lane. First wipe off the ends of led optos with q tip.
I would next check the connectors to the boards, loose wires or connector. Then looking at the last to opto leds on both the boards.
See if they look fine and aren't bent slightly. Next step remove the boards and check solder connections.

Hey there i was able to solve it. I think a wire or something was being pressed or in the wrong place. I lifted it up and started making sure everything was snug. Was testing the trough when suddenly switch 42 shot back on.

The gears don't really break, they wear down, and will cause slipping when the motor is moving back and forth a lot of simulate talking. hold her jaw closed and then open about 1/2 inch while trying to try to spin the motor gear to make sure they aren't slipping.

Could likey be a dead spot on the motor too.

Yes, those gears do break, especially the quarter moon shaped gear with the stops. NOS gears seem to hold up better than the repros, with the excepton of the metal gears that were available a few years ago.

Hey thanks for your help. I think the jaw and mech are ok as the jaw opens and closes fine when I connect a 9v battery to the cable that connects the motor to the Dual H-Drive Motor Controller. I have bought a replacement board so hopefully that will fix the issue. I will let everyone know what the result is..

I'm officially a member!!!

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My son loving machine #11!

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Awesome! Congrats & welcome!

OK so the new controller board has not made a difference to Red mouth operating correctly. I can see it moving ever so slightly when she is talking which leads me to believe there is something else going on. I had another closer look at the bracket under the play-field and there definitely seems to be something up with it. As you can see with the attached picture, where it is fitted doesn't seem correct. The bracket does not seem to be in the correct position. Either that or it has an after market fitted that doesn't quite fit the machine. I really don't know what to make of it. Its confusing because when I removed it there are no holes in the playfield where it might of gone. Its like its always been there. I have also noticed when I manually work the jaw it feels quite stiff compared to Ted's jaw which is working perfectly. Ted's jaw just clicks along if that makes sense where Red's I have to push a little harder. Any one have any ideas? If you can attach a photo of what yours looks like so I can compare that would be really helpful.

Cheers..

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Coil sleeve(s)? It may be time for a rebuild kit from pinball life.

I think that is the mount from a funhouse.

Try loosening the screws, and do some small adjustments. You may also want to remove the frame and gears and clean. If there is grease it needs to be removed, it isn't needed.

No coils involved in the mouth movement, so no coil sleeves needed.

Hey thanks dsuperbee for replying. Yes I pulled the whole thing apart - the two brackets with both gears and cleaned. The problem is that the gears do not move well when the bracket is together. They actually don't move perfectly when the bracket is apart either. Its like the gears are just a touch too big for the housing. If it is infact a Funhouse assembly then do you know of where I might be able to get a Red jaw assembly for Road House? I checked Marco and they didnt seem to have the bracket.

Cheers

You just need the bracket. No idea where to find one. Ebay, PBL, BAA, planetary, etc....lots of other vendors besides Marco.

That being said the bracket should work, it may need adjustment for proper jaw movement. FH uses the exact same gears and a different colored bottom jaw. When the jaw is free of the gears does it move nice and smooth?

Looks like you're missing the bump stop in the coil housing. That won't make a difference to Red's mouth as its the coil for her to spit the ball out, but will make the action less noisy.