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(Topic ID: 83745)

ROAD SHOW CLUB (Hard hats required on site)


By webdiddy

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,305 posts
  • 316 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Lhyrgoif
  • Topic is favorited by 122 Pinsiders

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There are 2305 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 47.
#1051 3 years ago

This is the video of the error noises

#1052 3 years ago

Can Red also swallow balls? I have had mine for a few months but have been so far unsuccessful at this....

#1053 3 years ago

Yes, You can shoot balls into Reds mouth.

From the Rules:

Red
"Another giant head. Red is placed at a similar angle as Rudy on FunHouse. Red's mouth is unobstructed, and can easily be hit from the Upper Left Flipper. Hits to Red are detected with a proximity switch. Red spits out any balls that find their way into her mouth. Shoot Red for Big Millions and Multiball jackpots."

http://pinball.org/rules/roadshow.html

PS - I guess technically she doesn't swallow....

#1054 3 years ago

Thanks! I will keep on trying...

#1055 3 years ago

Hey everyone i narrowed it down. It's coming from thier eyes. Every-time they move thier eyes the game makes the error noise. What do you think is causing the error noise?

#1056 3 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey everyone i narrowed it down. It's coming from thier eyes. Every-time they move thier eyes the game makes the error noise. What do you think is causing the error noise?

Its not an error noise, it's coil hum, normal.

#1057 3 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

Check in the switch test that the lock trough is registering 2 balls when there indeed, 2 balls in there.

Checked! The switch are all working but someone replaced them in what I think that Is the wrong way :/ I invite you to help me on the topic: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-multiball-problem

Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Yeah it was the eddy sensor.
I do have one other issue. The game makes a very low error noise periodically throughout the game. Particularly when you hit the heads. Do you have any idea what might be causing that or if thats normal when the heads move or during gameplay. Also my extra ball button sometimes needs to pressed more than once to get the next ball

How did you solved the issue???

#1058 3 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Have my road show for about two weeks. Loving it. But, Red's jaw seems to be getting stuck in the open position. I checked the mechanism under the playfield and the gears seem to be fine. Motor as well. It seems like it gets stuck somehow in the open position and the motor does not have enough power to get over the resistance. I can manually push it over it by rotating the main gear wheel. It almost kicks over it. After that it will work fine again for a dozen games before it gets stuck again. Seems to be overturning on opening the jar. Could not find any adjustment screw or similar. Any body any idea?
Thanks

I am willing to bet the gears are slipping. They may look okay, but the way the game detects open/closed mouth positions is by simply detecting a current spike when the motor maxes out its movement, this puts a lot of stress on the nylon gears and is why the are so typically worn out, it doesn't take much for them to round off slightly and then you get lazy jaw action.

It's almost always just the sector gear:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8470

But the motor gear can wear out too.

Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey everyone i narrowed it down. It's coming from thier eyes. Every-time they move thier eyes the game makes the error noise. What do you think is causing the error noise?

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Its not an error noise, it's coil hum, normal.

Confirming this. The mechs are kinda noisy during normal operation. With the glass on it should be barely noticeable.

#1059 3 years ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

I am willing to bet the gears are slipping. They may look okay, but the way the game detects open/closed mouth positions is by simply detecting a current spike when the motor maxes out its movement, this puts a lot of stress on the nylon gears and is why the are so typically worn out, it doesn't take much for them to round off slightly and then you get lazy jaw action.
It's almost always just the sector gear:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8470
But the motor gear can wear out too.

It is not slipping when closing. It literally gets stick in the open position. You need to push it over a jump (there is no hump, it just feels like it), but I guess I'll simply replace both to be sure. They are each less than shipping cost

#1060 3 years ago
Quoted from St0n3PiraT3:

Can Red also swallow balls? I have had mine for a few months but have been so far unsuccessful at this....

When the ball is coming out of the lock and to the Upper Left Flipper she will always have her mouth closed which makes getting it into her mouth pure chance. As a result getting it in there is quite rewarding, especially what she says when she spits it back out.

#1061 3 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Have my road show for about two weeks. Loving it. But, Red's jaw seems to be getting stuck in the open position. I checked the mechanism under the playfield and the gears seem to be fine. Motor as well. It seems like it gets stuck somehow in the open position and the motor does not have enough power to get over the resistance. I can manually push it over it by rotating the main gear wheel. It almost kicks over it. After that it will work fine again for a dozen games before it gets stuck again. Seems to be overturning on opening the jar. Could not find any adjustment screw or similar. Any body any idea?
Thanks

I had this exact same problem with Red. The jaw was rubbing against the side of the face, enough that the jaw wouldn't close. Loosened the face screws and moved it over a little to the right (when you're facing Red, didn't take much), problem solved.

#1062 3 years ago

My red also had slow, then non existent mouth movement. My issue ended up being the big directional motor board, which I ended up rebuilding for a few bucks in parts. (Since I was never able to narrow down the exact issue)

#1063 3 years ago

Hey guys need some help. I was putting in some leds on my road show. I took a light out and sparks started flying. old bulb turned off and the whole right side wont light up. No idea whats going on or how to fix it.
It was the 2nd light under Red's Ramp

IMG_1598 (resized).JPG

#1064 3 years ago

I don't want to tell you what you did, someone else has to do it. I'll check back later and if no one has done it by then, I will. Start off by getting the socket away from the rail and other metal parts.

#1065 3 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

I don't want to tell you what you did, someone else has to do it.

What he said... And you now have to forfeit your screen name to remain on Pinside.

#1066 3 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

I don't want to tell you what you did, someone else has to do it. I'll check back later and if no one has done it by then, I will. Start off by getting the socket away from the rail and other metal parts.

It's either a blown fuse or transistor.

#1067 3 years ago

First off, always turn your game off before working on it. Make a habit of trying not to make contact between your screwdriver or nut driver and any metal parts on your game (like the Operation game). When you pull the socket out, do not let it touch any metal parts. When you screw the socket back in, make sure that it isn't touching any metal parts. In all of those cases when there is electricity running through the game, you can create a short. Judging by your picture, the socket is laying right on the rail. You can try to install the bulb and see if the general illumination (GI) circuit lights up, but I doubt it. If that doesn't work, turn off the game, pull out the fuses, and test them with a multimeter. If that doesn't work, you may have burnt a connector and will need to call a pinball repair person. This problem has befallen many pinball collectors before, so don't worry and chalk it up to a learning experience.

#1068 3 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

First off, always turn your game off before working on it. Make a habit of trying not to make contact between your screwdriver or nut driver and any metal parts on your game (like the Operation game). When you pull the socket out, do not let it touch any metal parts. When you screw the socket back in, make sure that it isn't touching any metal parts. In all of those cases when there is electricity running through the game, you can create a short. Judging by your picture, the socket is laying right on the rail. You can try to install the bulb and see if the general illumination (GI) circuit lights up, but I doubt it. If that doesn't work, turn off the game, pull out the fuses, and test them with a multimeter. If that doesn't work, you may have burnt a connector and will need to call a pinball repair person. This problem has befallen many pinball collectors before, so don't worry and chalk it up to a learning experience.

It was fuse 107 and it had burnt out. I replaced it and the game is running fine. I actually lost the screw and i need to buy another. I was thinking home depot might have it

#1069 3 years ago

They should. If the screw is lost under the playfield, it can also cause a short. I have dropped many screws underneath the playfield and they hide in wire assemblies, under light boards, in scoops and in other tricky places. If it made its way all the way to the cabinet bottom, you'll probably be okay.

#1070 3 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

They should. If the screw is lost under the playfield, it can also cause a short. I have dropped many screws underneath the playfield and they hide in wire assemblies, under light boards, in scoops and in other tricky places. If it made its way all the way to the cabinet bottom, you'll probably be okay.

This is why you should always use a telescopic magnet tool to clear all the old screws and washers and things out of the bottom of the cabinet --that way if something drops and you see a screw down there you know it's the one you just lost.

Also do as I say, not as I do...

1 week later
#1071 3 years ago

Dear Members! Good to be here too as owner!
A question!
Do someone know supplier for fresh dozer bumper rubbers? Even if its not yellow.

#1072 3 years ago
Quoted from zuhi:

Dear Members! Good to be here too as owner!
A question!
Do someone know supplier for fresh dozer bumper rubbers? Even if its not yellow.

Found this, but currently no stock.

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-RS1

http://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/contact_customers.php/products_id/966

#1073 3 years ago

Sadly

Why someone do not cnc it from a larger piece or produce it from mold?
Or at least a 3D print from soft material...

#1074 3 years ago

I never even thought about that. I assumed it was all one piece of plastic.

#1075 3 years ago

I cleaned mine as best i could, rotated them to put the best edge up then bought those stickers to cover them. Looks good, works good... So far. The original pads even when brand new are sort of boring looking anyway.

#1076 3 years ago

glad i found this forum. i just bought RS, love the hell out of it!

need some plastics if anyone has a set for sale...

#1077 3 years ago
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

glad i found this forum. i just bought RS, love the hell out of it!
need some plastics if anyone has a set for sale...

Bay Area Amusements have RS plastics in stock.

1 week later
#1078 3 years ago

Hey guys, just picked up a RS yesterday and it doesn't have the factory shaker. I have done a little looking around for a new shaker kit but I haven't found anything. Is there a direct replacement kit for this game?

#1079 3 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Hey guys, just picked up a RS yesterday and it doesn't have the factory shaker. I have done a little looking around for a new shaker kit but I haven't found anything. Is there a direct replacement kit for this game?

Never heard about replacement kit.
Option 1: if you are a DIY guy, build your own. Contact Averell, he built a cool shaker for his WMS IJ.
Option 2: Pinsound team is working on shaker (plug&play to Pinsound board).

#1080 3 years ago

Ok thanks for the info, if anyone has an extra shaker from a Road Show I am interested

I have a bigger problem I am dealing with now anyway. After playing RS for a few games every so often when I hit both flipper buttons the game would power off and then power back up in a couple seconds on its own. After a few more games it started powering down after just hitting the left flipper button. After a few more games it powered down and then wouldn't come back on. Now when I switch the game on the speakers make a small noise and that's it? The game will not turn on. Where should I start?

#1081 3 years ago

I also spoke with the seller of the game, and he said this was not happening for him. Something might have came loose during transportation, but I checked all the connections and nothing was loose.

#1082 3 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I also spoke with the seller of the game, and he said this was not happening for him. Something might have came loose during transportation, but I checked all the connections and nothing was loose.

You need a $39 daughterboard that prevents WPC game resets from kahr.us

It prevents voltage drops which cause the game to reset.

#1083 3 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I also spoke with the seller of the game, and he said this was not happening for him. Something might have came loose during transportation, but I checked all the connections and nothing was loose.

The seller is probably lying... This is an extremely common problem. Start by reseating all the ribbon cables in the backbox, then do a simple search in these forums and you will find hundreds of posts and solutions to try.

#1084 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

The seller is probably lying... This is an extremely common problem. Start by reseating all the ribbon cables in the backbox, then do a simple search in these forums and you will find hundreds of posts and solutions to try.

I don't know the seller well, but I don't think he is lying. Either way after reseating the ribbon cable the game is now turning on, but after a short game I hit the left flipper and the game powered down again.

#1085 3 years ago

Great game! I've had my RS for about 3 years now but just joined the owners group. I'm having a problem with Red now. The eyes stopped moving. I got new parts installed and re-installed the head. When I turned the game on and hit start, I saw smoke coming probably from a coil. I have a repair guy coming out to look at it but I may have done something wrong when reconnecting. Any ideas are appreciated.

On another note I got the Mezel Mods for RS and observed that the light from the flasher that it fits over the dynamite mod was not filling up the whole piece. It was only lit in the bottom area. I looked inside and saw that there is thin plastic pieces blocking the light. It was easy to remove with a screwdriver though and the light now completely fills up the plastic dynamite mod. Road Show is the only game that my wife said that I should keep (Only had room for no more than 2 in basement). I got it from a guy in Wisconsin and it the decals were not faded the playfield in excellent condition with no fish wear and minimal damage to the start city hole.

I'll have to read through all these post as i've already seen excellent conversations about this pin here.

#1086 3 years ago
Quoted from Mrnetwurm:

Everyone seems to have a different idea on what the RS radio should look like. Here is my take:

I added an antenna to my radio.Road Show Radio (resized).jpg (sent from phone).

#1087 3 years ago

The daughter-board is the way to go in order to resolve reset problems.

#1088 3 years ago

Ok after further diagnostics it is not just the left flipper that is causing temporary power loss. The machine is now losing power randomly without touching anything? Where to start, will the kahr daughter board resolve this issue, or is that just a bandaid for a bigger issue?

#1089 3 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Ok after further diagnostics it is not just the left flipper that is causing temporary power loss. The machine is now losing power randomly without touching anything? Where to start, will the kahr daughter board resolve this issue, or is that just a bandaid for a bigger issue?

It technically IS a bandaid, but, it a really good one. So, I would get it, and then if it DOES fix your issues, know that your power driver board may need to be worked on.

#1090 3 years ago

Already ordered, thanks guys!

#1091 3 years ago

Kahr board works wonders. While it usually is a sign of a weak power board, sometimes these games just get cranky on voltage. Mine works fine in my basement gameroom, but when I drag it out to the garage for summer parties, its reset city due to the not quite as good garage wiring.

Quoted from jbug:

Great game! I've had my RS for about 3 years now but just joined the owners group. I'm having a problem with Red now. The eyes stopped moving. I got new parts installed and re-installed the head. When I turned the game on and hit start, I saw smoke coming probably from a coil. I have a repair guy coming out to look at it but I may have done something wrong when reconnecting. Any ideas are appreciated.

I would guess you have a locked on transistor on your power board. Will likely need a new coil too.

If you unplug the red eyeball harness, you can drop a meter across the pins to check:

Red/Black is your Positive, and then touch the black lead to the following,

right is Brn/gry
left is brn/blu
down is brown/grn
up is brown/violet

When the game is on, but just idle, you shouldn't see voltages, if you do, there is a problem.

#1092 3 years ago

Hello, i need the playfiled fish photos, could any of you tell me?

#1093 3 years ago
Quoted from paolinux:

Hello, i need the playfiled fish photos, could any of you tell me?

Enjoy...

20171018_201112 (resized).jpg

#1094 3 years ago

Thank you very much!

#1095 3 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Ok thanks for the info, if anyone has an extra shaker from a Road Show I am interested
I have a bigger problem I am dealing with now anyway. After playing RS for a few games every so often when I hit both flipper buttons the game would power off and then power back up in a couple seconds on its own. After a few more games it started powering down after just hitting the left flipper button. After a few more games it powered down and then wouldn't come back on. Now when I switch the game on the speakers make a small noise and that's it? The game will not turn on. Where should I start?

I had that exact same problem a while back but it was fixed on the board by a repair person.

#1096 3 years ago

Unfortunately I am the only repair man close to me. While I am waiting for the Kahr board I decided to take Red's head out and see what was going on in there.
Everything looks good, no loose connections, I can't see the centering flange that everyone talks about, not sure what might have happened to that? When I try to work the coils manually they seem super stiff. I watched a video on youtube of a woman manually moving the eyes, her coils seemed very easy to move. Does this mean the coils need replacing? Nothing seems bent and all in all everything looks pretty good.

#1097 3 years ago

Never mind on the centering flange, located where it is supposed to be and it is missing.

#1098 3 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Unfortunately I am the only repair man close to me. While I am waiting for the Kahr board I decided to take Red's head out and see what was going on in there.
Everything looks good, no loose connections, I can't see the centering flange that everyone talks about, not sure what might have happened to that? When I try to work the coils manually they seem super stiff. I watched a video on youtube of a woman manually moving the eyes, her coils seemed very easy to move. Does this mean the coils need replacing? Nothing seems bent and all in all everything looks pretty good.

Yeah the eyes should move very easy back and forth and spring to center. If you have to force it, one of the coils must be swolen and distorted the coil sleeve.

The part that is called the "centering flange" actually is only for the Eyes open/wide coil. It keeps the plunger centered in the hole to allow it to dip a bit below the wood support piece everything is bolted to. The name may lead you to believe it has something to do with "centering" the eyes, but doesn't.

#1099 3 years ago

Thanks! All the parts I need to rebuild Red are on the way! As for the resetting issue, I decided to go in the backbox and reseat every connector, it did the trick, now the game is playing great without a single reset!

#1100 3 years ago

Hey guys, thanks for all the help so far. I got the Kahr board and even though I didn't need it, I plugged it in, everything has been working fine. Until tonight, when my son was playing I noticed the pop bumpers and the slingshots weren't firing, when just a few minutes earlier they were working fine for me. I went into tests and they all fire fine. I looked at all connections underneath play field, and also on top, checking all leaf switches. I couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. Is it odd that just the slings and bumpers would stop working and the rest of the game would play fine?

What is my next course of action?

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