It does center it, but the pressure is on those eyelets. Thenmetal could be fatigued. The torsion bar is easy to check. Remove a screw on one side that holds it in, and roll it. If it doesn't roll smooth, replace. local hobby store should have something similar for a buck or so, same for the eyelets

there is a liner that goes in the crank arm too, those can wear out. What I did on my lazy eyed ted was add a second liner and that gave it the tension it needed to keep his eyes centered. That spring bar needs to be pretty tight for things to work the way they should.

That seems to be a random thing, too. Ted had it it mine, Red didn't.

The bar was straight, when it's in place it's tensioned though. The little springs on the arm seem to be what causes it to slide back to center. I'm guessing those are bent or have lost some agusto and just don't have enough "spring" to move things back to center.

Maybe i'll order a new arm and try that, everything looked ok, but you never know and relatively easy part to replace.

Make sure neither of the coil retainers are crooked. Sometimes they get cocked when you tighten the screws and will pinch the plunger in the coil sleeve. You can usually tell if this is happening in Red test mode, when the eyes should be moving, you can hear a hum from the coil, but no movement. Those springs are very light and will only return the plunger to center if the plunger in fact moves absolutely freely.

Sorry this may be a dumb question and I'm too lazy to read 20 pages of posts but is there a way to turn off or turn down the shaker?

There is "soft shaker" or "low power shaker" in the adjustment settings.

Actually my friend's machine. Is that across all ROMs? Not sure which version he has.

Only the latest L6

Well I've had both LCD and LED ColorDMD's in the game and LCD is the way to go for me.

I'll grab some video of LCD and try to post both.

LED up in marketplace is someone wants one preloaded for RS.

Question on others on the U turn shot.

Doesn't seem like mine feeds cleanly anymore to the mini flipper. I seem to remember it being a bit smoother of a transition, now I shoot it in there and it clunks a bit into the pad than slowly drops over to the flipper.

Am I nit picking now that I have everything else tuned in and working right? All the guides are clean and in the right position, the area freshly waxed and I have new balls. I am wondering if replacing the bumper pad would do anything?

I believe it's designed to slow it down if it comes from the full subway shot, you tend to hit that a lot from the smaller u-turn shot as well.

Anyone have a fix or solution for the ball getting stuck just under/behind the small flipper?

I've found the best way to get it out is to actually use the little flipper, that gives you somewhat of a chance to pop it out. Shaking it out has never done ANYTHING but drain for me.

That's what's designed to happen. Once in a while, I could get away with a violent shake and not tilt, but not often.

Make sure you have the right rubbers there, I have seen a ton of games that have the wrong rubber setup on those posts which will cause the ball to get stuck there. Have a look at your manual.

That could be, all the kits have single rings, as opposed to a larger rubber spanning the posts. Guess I should look at the manual.

I have also noticed that if the mini flipper is positioned wrong, the ball will get stuck a lot easier. I believe there should be a tiny gap behind the flipper when at rest. The right edge of the flipper should have a nice smooth transition and be lined up with the guides. Just having this 1/32" adjustment for me seemed to allow the ball to pop out.

Yeah, I just seemed to remember the whole motion being a bit smoother than it seems to be, again, it might just be me nitpicking since I have all the other various issues sorted.

I replaced the single rubbers around each post with a rubber to span the posts - problem solved.

Ted developed a new ability last night...Super left look.
IMG_20170612_221953587 (resized).jpg

Actually, what was happening was the crank arm was slowly breaking. Now get to yank him out AGAIN.

Meanwhile I got around to permnamently soldering the comet strip I put inside the radio, while attempting to take a picture of it while lit, google photos automatically turned the missed attempts and the successful one into an animated gif.

(EDIT: pinside keeps switching it to a static image, using outside link)

http://i.imgur.com/tWiLbpu.gif

Awesome Look from Red!

Love the idea of lighting the Radio....!!

Ill add that to my list!

Does he have a chubby too??

Hi, does anyone have a full high resolution scan for the Roadshow playfield? I think I had a link once but it no longer works.

My e-mail is [email protected]

thank you

FX

Am I seeing this right?

It seems there are more Roadshows for sale now over 3K, then under....?

The one for $2750 hasn't sold, it doesn't seem likely the $3500+ ones will sell.

I paid $3400 for mine, but it's extremely clean.. PF is near perfect and the cabinet only had a few tiny marks...

I couldnt find this, can you share?

I have a friend looking...............

I think you did well! An amazing game, for so little!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-tradesale-road-show

I regularly have balls getting stuck up around the top of the left ramp above Bobs Bunker. Is there supposed to be a plastic on top of the yellow left ramp?
If so, what does it look like?

Thanks! Ill pass it on!

It doesnt show because of a search, and there is a hyphen between "road-show"

On this, I agree....It just seems, and it could be me, some new found interest in Road show.

Ive had more people ask if mine was for sale, then in the past....

Nonetheless, it is just too much fun, I never get tired of playing it!!

It's hard to sell Roadshow because the only person who will buy a roadshow is someone who wants a roadshow. Plus no one wants to buy one with the heads busted. A bunch of sellers are trying to sell RS as is and thats not flying much anymore. I plan to get one after i get either a tz or indy

I guess thats one thought.

LSOG sold one in 2 days listed at $3600.

I do Agree no one wants to work on the heads, or get fish wear.

Im not sure if its hard to sell, and perhaps it is why its been low in price...they have been low because of demand.

It just seems with a full featured game in a Premium Costing around $6k, Ive seen some recent games, like JD that were always around $2300-$2700, have taken a recent bump.

Doesnt mean one cant find some selling/sold around $2500...of course this happens.

Just part of a recent discussion...

Anyone have a cheap fully functioning DMD for Roadshow available?
I know a lot of you guys are going color, so if you are willing to part out with your old DMD let me know.

If possible no missing lines and no fading

Thanks
FX

Define cheap? I have a 100% working one i am not using as i went color... not sure i want to "give" it away though...

My machine has stopped registering the skill shot and red's mouth. Are they connected?
Also still need help with my previous question regarding the plastic on the left ramp near bobs bunker

Are you taking while the ball is travelling on the ramp itself?

Mine doesn't have anything there, but I have had it pop out of the ramp once and bang off the sign.

Looking at the matrix, the upper skill and red's mouth are both on the Red/Green switch line along with slam tilt and the outlanes and buy-in button.

rsswitch (resized).png

Do you have an error message yet? Also, look for loose wires because sometimes they are knocked loose by the shaker motor

No error message but I did recently have the coin door painted. Might check my connection there?

I would suggest doing a switch test on all of your switches. Hopefully, just the two you mentioned are not working. If there are any loose wires, they are most likely right at the switch

An unexpensive mod for those ugly switches... Orange switch covers and white pinstripes... makes it look a little like road barrels !

IMG_6715 (resized).JPG

Hell at this point why not 3D print some actual barrels that will fit over them? Not saying you have to do it but somebody should be able to.

lowered the price of mine to $2600 if anyone is interested

Yo do have a point. After look at mine there is not enough space to make round ones that would be small enough to fit. oh well it was an ideal. Hell now that I look at that it would look good as is... maybe figure a way to put a micro LED on it.

I had the same problem, the ball would jump out of the ramp and stick between the switch and side of the cabinet. The game wasn't designed with a ramp cover, but it should have been... So I made one, end of problem.

Exactly the place mine wedges. Could you possibly put a pic up of the one you made?

Best I can do...

Ramp Cover1.JPG

Ramp Cover3.JPG

Ramp Cover2.JPG

Any info on mod-ing the radio? I have just purchased one and would like something other than the plain red radio....

Thanks!

There are some nice custom painted ones earlier in this thread I believe. I don't remember anyone ever making a lighted radio mod. If they did, I would likely buy one.

One can mod their Radio with Comet Strips or other.

Lots of different paint jobs...maybe scan the pic gsllery.

Not if you started the base of the barrel at the bottom of the habitrail, basically adding to the bottom of the mod that was pictured above and making it look more like a real barrel. You could probably make the inside of the barrel in such a way that it just slides over the switch and the habitrail end.