Maybe a dumb question but what's the centering flange look like?

Straight from pinbits; it's the round black part (some good info in the link as well.) Pinbits carries the part, its 6 bucks. Don't cheap out on the original 2 dollar nylon one. I installed a delrinnone in my funhouse 14 years ago, and it's held out fine.

http://www.iobium.com/funhouse_plunger_plastics.htm

(Sorry if I sound short. Woke up early to smoke a 12 lb pork butt, and my 2 year old decided to join me)

Here's a shot of the old centering flange, I replaced with new ones from Marco on both Red and Ted.

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Can you link me the part no. please?

I am capable of looking, but your experience will help avoid buying a multitude of unnecessary parts prior to opening Ted up...

Eyes work left & right, just Teds eyelids that seem lazy.

Post 902 links to the nice basic guide pinbits does. I have done about a half dozen heads spread between roadshow and funhouse, and Ted I will usually replace all the old plastic parts with the delrin stuff they sell. (Since he is a pain). You can get pretty much all you need from them except the coils. I don't have the part #s or a manual handy at the moment, sorry.

Went to order those parts you guys suggested from pinbits and they are sold out.
I sent an email to ask if more would be coming.

That looks like the way to do it once and do it right.

Thanks for the info.

Glad you said something, that assembly really did come out easy from the bottom. I would have never thought it was that simple.
Which was good because there was a switch you can't see on the backside which was mangled and wedged inside the slot. I spent all my time messing with the front two before.
So far so good after a few games. Completely changes how the game plays.
Thanks,
Joe

Thats not the centering flange.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8486

what you have a picture of is the crank arm..

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-19258

lazy lids are like one of these are worn or cracked...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14028

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=a-14030

or the coils are too swollen and the mech isn't moving correctly.

If the switch was mangled inside the slot it´s likely that it´s the wrong wireform. The rectangular leg at the end of the wire might be too short. That was the case on my RS.

I think the wire was ok but worked it's way into the slot and then the ball messed it up.

It's the third time on this pin I found a wire inside the slot. Maybe they used cheap switches, just seems they have a lot of wobble and deflection and I guess the ball pushes it to the side and the little bend that is supposed to keep it from falling through gets by.

On another note, my lockdown bar is messed up (or at lest I think so). Slides down off the machine. I don't know exactly what it's supposed to look like, but mine looks like it has fresh welds on it.
If I push it forward it fits right, so I'm thinking that the bracket inside is too far forward. Is there a fix for this? Cut it loose and reweld?

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Just joined the club. Picked up a RS on the weekend. Game was super dirty, has some playfield wear which has had decals put over. Still can't believe how much fun the game is. So many shots! My kids love the talking heads. However for someone who is not very mechanically inclined is it not recommended to try to take apart and fix them? Mouths work. Ted eyes work but eyelids don't close all the way. Red is a real mess, mouth works but I think that is about it. Also the game does not shake so shaker must have been removed. What shaker would I install for that? I assume easy to do? This game is a hidden gem!! Can't believe I have barely played it before now.

Has anyone maybe done a video on removing and repairing Ted and Red. Seems like it could get some serious views!!!

They are both the same more or less but Red is waaayyy easier to remove. Theres a few proprietary parts in there that are likely worn out or disconnected. If you can fix her, you can fix Ted but the ramp has to come off to get at him. There's plenty of how-tos around if you need them. Parts are available generally. I did mine not long ago so might be able to answer some questions.

Good price i saw on that game. Was surprised it didn't go faster.

For ted, pretty much every ramp has to come out. Then the under passage path. Then bulldozer. Then remove hat and the fring and back of the heads. Disconnect jaw gear and motor setup, then turn it to remove from jaw.

It's really not bad to get down to just ted. Take pics, label connectors, and anybody can do it

I've not really looked for something showing removal. Start with Red, take hat, face, back off. Remove the 4 or 5 woodscrews from underneath and that should be enough to remove it. Disconnect the jaw from the motor of course also.

Ted is harder, need the ramp off to get at the one bulldozer bolt. Then its pretty similar.

There's detailed step by step around after the heads are out. And a video or the manual also helps. Take lots of pictures.

Thanks. This really seems like a game that the time to repair would be worth the effort because the beads are so cool. I hope tackle the job sometime but for now just going to play and enjoy.

What about the shaker? Easy enough to replace / add back in?

Apparently it didn't come standard with a Shaker. Mine has one. Maybe check the manual.

Yes, it did. All roadshows have them.

It's an integral part of the game.

Check the solder connections to the shaker. Maybe one was shaken off

I don't remember, but can the shaker be turned off in the menu?

Yes it can

I am not at the game so will check later but is the shaker in the usual "stern" place at the lower left side of the cabinet where the tilt bob is?

Yes

Watch this series of videos and you will learn all you need to now on how the assemblies work. Rudy is mechanically identical to red under the plastics. Ted is also the same except swallowed balls travel down a subway to the lock trough, so he doesn't have the eject solenoid on the bottom.

I tried to do one when I had Ted out last month but none of the video came out well.

Here is what I can recall from memory:

1) Begin with the metal habbitrails, on red's side first, then the crossover, and finally the "falling rocks" shooter ramp. There are several switches and lights attached to that one, but everything is on a connector and easy to find while you are pulling it off. There are a couple screws along the edge that can be a bit tricky to get to, a long extension helps a ton. The front of the ramp has 2 flat head screws under the playfield that hold it down.

2) Next, take red's and ted's helmets off and remove the faces, be careful with these as they are unobtainium, they screw in on the sides of the faces under the helmet and slide out.

3) to remove ted's ramp, you will need to remove the diverter arm entirely, find the link arm under the playfield, loosen the allen screw and slide the arm out. Unplug everything and remove the needed screws. You need to do this before red's as there are ramp flap screws under the ted ramp where the ball returns to the playfield when the ball does the full orbit shot around ted.

4) remove red's ramp. There are some lights and switches to deal with, but they just unplug. There is a tab on this ramp that sticks out the back of the flasher apron into the diverter bracket, you can just loosen the screen and hold the diverter arm out of the way while you slide the ramp out. Don't forget the ramp flap screws in the back.

5) there are a couple of blue plastics you will need to remove to get easy access to the dozer bolts, take these out.

6) remove the dozer opto board.

7) the dozer lift arm is attached to the motor cam with a spring that wraps around it, unclip from one end and let the arm free.

8 ) there are 2 bolts on either side of ted for the dozer, undo these. a ratcheting wrench or low profile ratchet will help here. Lift the dozer out.

9) you will need to unbolt the lock eject solenoid assembly under the playfield to the left of ted to clear for the next step...(4 screws)

10) remove the subway from under ted. (4 screws)

11) unplug and unbolt the mouth motor bracket under ted, (4 screws.)

12) the link arm from the motor to the jaw has a notched keyway, you should be able to rotate the gear a bit to free it from ted's jaw.

13) remove all screws and spacers on the side of ted's frame.

14) Unplug and unbolt ted from underneath. he will wiggle out from the playfield.(4 screws) on mine only one is a machine screw with a t-nut and the others are wood screws. Dunno if this is normal, but pay attention on yours.

This is just of the top of my head, I might have missed something but I think I have it all in there.

Red is pretty much just removing the helmet, face and back of head plastics from above and the screws that hold them, remove the mouth motor from underneath, unhook the jaw link, pull the 4 screws from red's base, and she wiggles out.

Thanks for the help. I took Red out since so easy to examine. However nothing looks to be broken. When I push the eyes back and forth they stick on one side so that is what is happening they stick and won't come unstuck. The eyelids I can't get to move at all.

When I test it, just makes humming noises when the eyes and lids are to move. The eyes will go back and forth a couple times and then stick frozen.

So what now? I am afraid to take apart all the coils and pieces. Worried I might do more hard then good. But I guess they are all likely siezed up? Can they be fixed or so the coils likely need to be replaced. Any suggestions where to go from here?

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Let's start with the eyelids. Do they move easily by hand when you push them? If so, great, if not, you may need to do some minor repair. On both sides of the frame, there are two small brass eyelets that the tensioning rod for the eyes goes through. On one side, remove the nut holding the eyelet in place, and pull out that small rod. Do the eyes move freely then? If so, you will need to replace the brass eyelets (especially if they both look heavily worn, which they probably are.) make sure the torsion bar is nice and even too. If it isn't, you can find a replacement at most hobby stores with a similar diameter. Always get the closest, but don't go for a smaller diameter if they don't have the exact size, get the slightly larger.

Now if they are still sticking, you will need to pull apart the eyes. Remove the 'oh shit! Clip, from the crank armand then remove the screws holding the eyes in on each side, and the eyes should just release. Either your crank arm is cracked, or someone oiled something. Either way clean up the parts. Using a Dem, check the ohms for the coils. One may have been burnt up and is causing the seizing. If they both read the same, great. (Not sure of the ohm reading for the coils)

Eyelids: can you hear these trying to fire in the head tests? If not you could have wires that have broken off the coil, one or more coils could be bad, or the preserve/drive transistors for the coils could be bad. Before doing anything, use your DMM and test those predrive and drive transistors. (Check your manual for which ones. If you don't have a manual, look on ipdb.org for now, and place an order for one.). Replace these if needed. Trust me, you don't want to replace a coil, plug it in, and have it burn up right away!

Anyways, if the transistors are good, Check the ohms on the coils with your DMM, and replace if needed. In my experience, these coils have always been the ones that have been stressed and I've had to replace. But don't replace them unless you absolutely have to. No reason to spend the money if they are ok.

If you can hear them trying to fire, then the vertical coil (that opens the eyelids) is most likely missing the centering flange (which it appears to have missing in your picture) which will make the mechs bind up. Order from pinbits.com in the links above. You may need to order the vertical plunger (that opens the eyes) if the end is all chewed up from hitting the wood over and over.

If the flange is there, you may just need to realign the parts and get them all nice and even. They shouldn't be oil anywhere, everything runs dry.

Hope this helps somewhat. It's all from memory, so there may be some errors. I strongly suggest you get the manual if you don't have one already. The exploded view of the heads is a pretty decent diagram that shows how it goes together.

i bought the one in norwood mass.
the eyes on red not moving at all.
rebuilt the entire assembly total cost 166.00 all parts from marco

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Lolol too funny. But seriously creepy haha. Instantly reminded me of Leatherface from Texas chainsaw massacre.

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Hey gang,
I've got a weird issue with the board that controls the jaw motors. Please look at the link below, it's got me stumped!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-motor-board-help#post-3754662

Added over 7 years ago: Edit : fixed! Resistor went bad. Will be dealing with teds eyes after pagg.

Hey all, picked up a RS a couple weeks ago, great game!

Upgraded with a ColorDMD (led). Which rocks. Also have the OCD LED, which really impressed me.

Everything works except Red's eyes don't center. Is that probably just dirty parts?

Lazy centering generally is one of three things.

There are copper eyelets on the sides of the frame that the spring bar is held in place by. These wear out.

The spring bar itself is bent.

The crank liner that fits into the crank arm is missing or worn.

Red has developed a lazy jaw --her mouth always opens but doesn't always close. Any suggestions as to what I should check first?

Thanks!

red is very easy to take out.
remove the helmet the face and the back of reds head and just 2 plugs and some screws underneath.
i guarantee you when you take it off and inspect it your problem will ne obvious
the head is easy to fix/rebuild
the parts are all available from marco specialties.
i enjoyed fixing red, so robotic. the mechanics are very nice engineering!

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Ok I'll take red out and have a peek.

Thanks everyone!

I remember seeing eye springs as a part listed online, should those be in the eye coils to re center it?

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There was a lot corrosion/rust on the small bar and ring spring, once I cleaned that it moved much easier (eyes).

No, there are no springs involved.

Cool. Red seems to be working fine now and the eyes are centering after being cleaned up. Relatively easy fix.

Thanks!

If you are lucky, it's just the connectors on the motor control board on the bottom of the playfield not making good contact.
Try re-seating those, clean the connector pins while you are checking.

Other than electrical gremlins, it could very likely be the sector gear. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3030

The constant trashing of the gear around tends to round out some of the teeth and causes it to slip. Since there is really no limit switches, the controller board detects when the current draw of the motor ramps up when it slams into the end of the gear as the "end of stroke", this puts a lot of strain on the gears, and they do wear out. When it starts slipping a little, that just accelerates the wear.

Well i just put in a ColorDMD (LED) a week ago. I just ordered a ColorDMD (LCD)... i'm going to sell whichever one i don't want to keep.

I'll try to get some video of both so you can see the differences.

This only lasted a couple days, she's back to being lazy-eyed. Boo.

i rebuilt mine for 166.00 changed all the major parts and coils. works like new!

Yeah i didn't see the spring assembly listed anywhere, unless it's pre-attached the control arm thingy.

This is one of three things: the brass eyelets at the end of the torsion bar are worn (most likely), the torsion bar is bent, or the crank arm is cracked/broken.

The brass eyelets looked good. I would guess it's the bar/spring assembly at the rear as from what I could tell that's what centers it. Once i cleaned it all up it worked out, but now it's not working again, I would imagine if i took Red out again, it would be dirty again or something.