Has anyone attempted to paint the radio on their own?

Many many people. It's a popular mod. Get some cheap acrylic and a small brush for the buttons, and some spray paint or airbrush the large areas.

Instead I added a 3 led strip from comet on the inside and the whole thing lights up when it activated.

There are some pix of hand painted radios earlier in this thread

I've seen the pics...but wasn't sure if it's really a DIY job, or on that requires the steady had of someone like the Mod father

I've been having reset issues with my rs lately. After running through the pinwiki on how to identify reset problems, I narrowed it down to the idc connector at j210. I was able to resolve my voltage drop when reseating that connector. I don't have any issues with burnt or tarnished header connectors, but I'm still thinking about replacing the female connector with a molex type. Can anyone confirm that this is a .156 size molex needed here? I need to throw in an order for some molex supplies or a kit to take care of occasional electrical problems. Also has anyone one had issues with wpc resets on their boards caused by cracked solder joints? All my boards appear to be original and unhacked at this point! On a side note, I was finally able to get a Construction Mania going tonight, pretty cool!

I bought one of those daughter boards and it resolved the reset issues on my tz

Kahr boards

Yes, that is a .156 connector. Your best bet is to do the male and female connectors. My DW had a laundry list of the reset issues, including cracked solder joints.

Thanks for the info, guys! I'll get some molex parts on order, probably pull the board off to take a look at solder joints on the back, and then check out the Kahr daughter boards as another backup option.

Well, I guess I'm in the club now! Finally grabbed a Road Show. There was one on the first deck of my Marine Corps barracks in Okinawa around 2001. I used to play it while waiting for a pay phone to open up to call home in the middle of the night. Needs some work on the bulldozer but fixing things is part of the fun for me.

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He there, count me in;
Already have my RD for some years only to find this Topic today
Definitely a keeper; I've added lots of mods to mine with a ColorDMD as one of the latest mods; Real nice
Here are some images

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Unfortunately I'm leaving the club... Need the money so if anyone is interested I will sell for 3000.

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

Road Show Archived

Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean - “Really nice road show with virtually no playfield wear. Cabinet good with a little fade but is not chipped or cracked. Everything works except reds eylids dont move. Coil fires but...”

2017-02-21

Norwood, MA

Mfsrc791

3,000 (OBO)

Archived after: 26 days

Viewed: 1699 times

Status: Sold for $ 2,900

Contributed to Pinside

How easy is it to remove the 2 rear plastic ramps? My playfield is pretty dirty under there and I'd like to clean it

Does anyone have good close-up photos of the Bob's Bunker sign assembly?

My RS has been missing it since I bought it - every playfield part and every electrical part back to the molex connector. I ran new wires up to the playfield (bright yellow in the pic) and picked up a replacement plastic, but I don't know how it's supposed to be mounted or how the LED fits in there. The ramp holes where I assume it screws in are also in pretty bad shape.

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Need help please. My roadshow will not start a game. When I put it in test switch mode the start and the buy in/extra ball buttons will not register all other switches in the row work . I have tested the micro switches they worked. Traced the wire and tested them work. checked the diodes on the coin door interface board they all read between 535-565. I even changed out the switch chip on the cpu and no luck. Any idea where else to look.

got one for sale, super nice but could use a shop job, little dirty, not bad.

When I lock the 2nd ball and Ted goes to sleep his eyes don't close all the way but do close the whole way at other times as well as when the machine is off.
Is that supposed to be like that and if not, any suggestions?

Maybe it's supposed to do that. Ted is getting tired because it's just before midnight?

No, they should close all the way. Probably missing the centering flange for the plunger that controls the eyes closing. Pretty common.

This might be a stupid suggestion, but is the game set to free play?
If the game is set on coin play, the start and buy in buttons will do nothing without credits on the game.

The buy in button works fine if its set to free play or pay play. Also you can limit the number of buy ins a person is allowed per game if you want.

Does it go into a quick ball search when you hit start? Might not be seeing all 4 balls in the trough.

Finally got to join the club about a week ago! Tore the game down to the bare playfield, cleaned and polished everything, dropped in ablaze LED's, and replaced coil sleeves. Runs like a champ, just have to remember not to run the shaker motor after everyone is sleeping!

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I miss this club

Nice one available in Michigan. Color DMD and Topper $4200

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mine is still available in TX, dropping price to $2850

Machine - For Sale

For Trade/Sale: Road Show Archived

Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean - “Up for trade or sale is a nice road show. This is 100% converted to LED, 100% working including heads, diverters, shaker and all switches. Plays games perfectly and is my favorite ...”

2017-05-16

Austin, TX

Amarillopinball

2,700

Archived after: 44 days

Viewed: 3648 times

Status: Not sold

Good luck with the sales!

Hey guys, picked up a nice road show today.
After sorting out some switch adjustments, i'm down to just one issue (or you can say 2), the eyes never move on neither red or ted. Not in game, not in test.
I've read the heads are pain to take out, so if the parts are cheap (and existent) i'll just order them first as for I like to fix things in one sitting.
The mouths work fine.

What are the normal culprits?
Thanks,
Joe

Broken wires on the lugs, burnt up coils from the associated transistors shorting, and the brass eyelets that the centering bar go through getting enlongated, and the plastic centering flange breaking. The heads aren't hard themselves to get out, it's all the associated stuff that has to be removed that makes it a total pain in the ass (Red not so much. Ted is a pain.)

I had a similar issue with a RS I purchased two weeks ago. Once I stripped the helmets and backing plastics off of Ted's head, I noticed that the coil that drives the eyelids closed had a wire separated from the coil. Same scenario as what dsuperbee mentioned above. You can find replacement coils pretty cheap at pinballlife. I ended up disassembling the entire playfield anyway so that I could shop, clean and wax. If you have some right-angle tools that will allow you to remove the screws from Ted's bulldozer, you can remove him from the underside of the playfield with a little patience. Or if you are a contortionist, you may be able to work on him from behind the playfield with it extended and all the way out. Good luck!

This is my first post on pinside...glad to join the club. I've had RS for about 6 years now. I've been digging ditches for 27 years and Road Show's theme suits my profession well. I love this game...fun to play and the political incorrectness makes me laugh over and over again.

My machine is currently being modded by a pinball buddy I met recently. It's needed work since I bought it and I can't wait to see the completed project. I've read this entire thread, and while, after seeing his pins I gave Pinball Doc "carte blanche" to pimp my RS as he sees fit, I've thrown in my 2 cents along the way.

Here's what he's doing:

1. Clean, wax, new rubbers.
2. Full LED job.
3. New stickers.
4. Barrels/Dynamite
5. Back board sticker.
6. Mirror blades.
7. Interactive construction light topper (based on the one from this thread) w/ a backhoe given to my Dad by a John Deere salesman.
8. Custom rules card.
9. Arrow board lock mod.
10. Adding Hotwheels/Matchbox from my collection on plastics protectors.
11. He's looking into radio lit from inside (I couldn't find post I read mentioning this...help!). My artist Mom will paint radio accordingly.
12. Cliffy's.
13. Flipper rebuild.
14. Adding playfield spotlights.

I was thinking about a color DMD, but decided orange matched real sign boards perfectly.

I'm sure I missed something. I can't wait to see my underrated machine...even the country music grows on ya. IPDB has Road Show ticked-up to #17.

I'll post pics when I get it back.

Let's Wreck Some Road,
Ditch Digger

Welcome aboard!

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Wow, looks like if I just order "all" the parts for the eyes it's going to add up. I guess i'll have to pull it apart and see what I really need.

On another note, the bunker lock is really inconsistent. Seems I mess with the lower of the two (lower when the playfield is up), it works for a few plays, then goes back to being inconsistent, any suggestions.

Also the level on the side, where the hell is the bubble supposed to be? Has a whole bunch of lines instead of just 2 like a standard level.

Sounds like a switch is on its way out tome down in the bunker.

Level shows the degree on the pf. If I remember right the bubble should be at the second line for 6.5 degrees. But I don't honestly remember, check the manual.

You've been on pinside for 4 years, own 4 machines, feel confident enough to work on Red/Ted heads (one of the most complex assemblies in pinball)... But you dont know how to adjust the pitch angle or read the level on the machine?? Have a look at the manual.

Not sure if this was meant to be an insult, but sure sounds like one. It amazes me that with a simple switch and level question it leads you to make assumptions about my mechanically ability.
First off, I don't have the manual yet.
Second, i've messed with the switch to no conclusive success.
Third, I have plenty of levels at my house and none have half a dozen lines on it, nor do any of my system 11 pins have levels at all.

The pin is new to me and if you there is a road show club, why not just ask the guys that have it instead of wasting time. I've tackled much deeper issues with other pins, but never hurts to have experienced opinions before you jump into something. I'm someone that just likes to be prepared. Many times I ask questions about things I would eventually figure out, but why waste all that time?
Pinball is just one of the hobby's I have and some of the guys on this site have saved me hours by cordially answering the questions that were asked.

I'm guessing you have notifications on your phone and my post triggered and email that woke you up, I can't see any other reason to come here and be a dick. Why not just ignore it, especially after superbee already responded?

For the record the heads don't worry me in the slightest, I just like to fix things in one sitting because you never know when i'm going to get the time to finish, especially in the summer.

Superbee, thanks for giving an actual response, I appreciate it.

You can view a .pdf of the manual via ipdb.org if you are waiting for a manual to arrive. You might be able to print the PDF, but I've never tried.

Im not sure if you're really uber-sensitive, but it sure sounds like you are! I'm not a millennial, so I sometimes tend to give people the benefit of the doubt and have higher expectations of people then I should. I'm usually really quick to help someone... and when I said "take a look at the manual", stupid me assumed you were aware of this too...
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1972/Williams_1994_Red_Ted_s_Road_Show_Operations_Manual_October_1994_OCR_searchable_includes_parts_information_and_schematics.pdf

FTR, I read your post as a little dickish as well, and I'm far from a 'millennial'. Not even sure what that has to do with anything, but... there you have it.
Noone knows everything.

I do have to kinda laugh, first you take what has to have been a mild shot at me (if it wasn't, you really must be quite the Ahole not to know it), then to defend it against my reply you hit me with another by calling me uber sensitive and a millennial. Let me guess, the millennial comment wasn't meant to be offensive?
Do you actually read your posts before hitting reply?

Benefit of the doubt? Lol, you assumed I had the manual and didn't look in it, how exactly is that giving me the benefit of the doubt?

Pretty simple, re-read your posts to see how they sound, so you don't come off as a dick.
A little self awareness goes a long way.
Trust me I can live with it, just because I prefer not to let people talk down to me (on the internet and certainly not in person) doesn't mean I have to go hide in my safe place (and for the record i'm not a millennial, but I don't dislike them like you clearly do).

As for the manual, thanks superbee, I actually downloaded one once and printed it out, cost me $35 in ink to print out a $20 manual, lol.

I will be taking out ted sometime this week to fix my eye centering issue. I can take pics and try to do some sort of guide to help people. Working on the heads really isn't that bad, it's just getting em out (especially Ted)

That would be awesome as mine has the minor issue of Ted's eyes not fully closing and I'm not game to pull it apart yet as it is a minor issue. Everything else works just fine on him

I would recommend fixing that asap actually, because it can cause more damage to other parts, especially if it is being caused by the centering flange missing (which is almost always the cause of the eyes not closing.)

That would be fantastic. I'll be getting a roadshow soon enough and that's the number one concern I have is popping Ted out

That'd be really helpful as my Ted has a lazy eyelids.

They work, but seem to drop slowly after an 'open', so in my eyes (pun intended) they're not working properly.

The switches in the bunker can be a pain in the ass and kinda hard to diagnose. I had similar problems with them being inconsistent. Fortunately it´s very easy to remove the whole assembly from the underside of the pf. Just disconnect two connectors and remove the 4 screws which hold the assembly to the pf. You have to move the diverter assembly a little bit to get to the 4th screw. You can do this by just removing two screws from the diverter and loosening the third. This way you can move it aside enough to get to the 4th screw.
Once you have the assembly out you can adjust the switches very easily.

Centering flange is gone, or if it is there, the coil that controls the up/down on the eyelids is either mis-aligned, or heat stressed. Mine had the same problem.