There are 4 coils if you count left/right. Iirc, The lower coil opens the eyes up wide, then they fall onto a stepper unit controlled by another coil in the back. When that coil is activated, the eyes close again. That stepper unit/plunger linkage can break pretty easily.

Under eyes wide, the coil number 13 in the diagram is activated. it pulls the plunger link down and that allows the eyes to stay wide open, as long as the coil is powered.

When the coil isn't live, the eyes will rest at either normally open position, or if coil 12 is energized, that vertical link (part #6) slides all the way up and the eyes close.

The normal operation of the plunger on coil 12 is to rest spung out, and it should catch always the vertical link (#6) at the little tooth that sticks out from it and hold in at the eyes open position. If the eyes go from wide to closed no problem, you have an issue with either plunger, the springs or the coil itself is stuck.

Capture2 (resized).PNG

Because Ted is a pain to get out, I would replace both the plunger links 4 & 6, the springs and the all too important and oft forgotten centering flange. They are all really cheap and break and wear out often.

Here are all three states (closed, wide and open):

open:
open.jpg
wide:
wide.jpg
closed:
closed.jpg

Should Red just slide out from underneath? I removed the 4 screws and detached the gear but it seems to be hanging up as it won't come all the way out. Hanging on the screws on the side??

Yeah, the screws need to be out totally, and then you can wiggle it out.

More stupid questions.....how does the white plastic arm come off the metal pin?

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Nope. Reattach it to the eye lids and attach the other pin. The with coils unscrewed and out of the way, feed everything down thru the top. Once the eyes are back in position feed the springs and coils back on the pins and remount the coils. Done. All that's left is getting the head back in to the playfield.

Got it! Thanks everyone for the help! No more possessed Red!!

Anyone put a Pinsound board in Rs? Change the country to rock?

hi

yes!! pinsound is great in RS

There's no way anyone could go wrong with some Bad Moon Rising on a pinball.

So I have a small problem again. My GI on the left side is out. Not completely. If you look at the bulbs they're on. Very faint but there on. I took a voltage meter and tested both the right and left side... ones that are working around 6.3ACV other side around 2ACV. Is this a ground issue? Could I have a plug in the wrong spot on the board?

I recently had the board out to replace a transistor so I'm wondering if that could be the problem.

Would appreciate the help.

It always seems to be the left side on this table.

check out this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-gi-lighting-out#post-2518170

On mine, it was J120, the connector itself was burned up pretty bad.

So I checked J121 and it was burned a little on the left side. I wiggled the plug a little and if I actually pull the left side of the plug out a hair the lights work. Could this do further damage in the short term? I'll want to replace the plug just takes a while to get parts here.

Eventually it will burn more and create enough resistance to not work at all.

here is a simply mod for the shooter plunger mounts

https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=swinksplungerplate&sort=name

Roadshow (resized).jpg

not my game

You should be ok for the short term, especially if you switched to LEDS, as the lower current draw will reduce heat on the connector.

I've had exclusive LED's in it since I've owned it in March. Only thing I don't have LED's in is the flashers on the back board behind the heads. Ran out of LED's.

Hey quick question. Anyone know how to turn un daily high scoreing? I thought rs had the option but i cant find it in the adjustments menu. Also will that erase the alltime high score list?

hi guys, thanks for the RS club!!

hoping i could get some help.
i have a ground short in row 1..
i am checking all switches in row 1, but
can somebody please confirm which switch is #21 "teds mouth"?

manual shows switch is located to the right rear of teds head, but there is no switch there, so manual seems wrong.
i am also unable to use my diagnostic switches since this occurred as well.

it may be the eddy sensor, or something under the playfield. thanks///sparky

It hink that it is an eddy sensor in front of TEDs mouth located under the playfield.

Hi rygar, thanks for the reply.
After looking further, it seems that teds mouth switch is under the playfield in the metal subway going to the ball lock upkicker. Can anyone confirm? Thanks. Sparky

Correct.

Thanks, now to figure out why my diagnostic switches are not working.....

Assuming you've checked to see if any wires have broken off the switches, look very carefully at the wires and connectors on the coindoor interface board. Tug at each wire gently to make sure none of the wires are broken off at the connector. Ive seen it happen many many times... IDC connectors + small gauge wire = eventual problems.

thanks only...
i disconnected the connector from the interface board, and tested the switches using my dmm for continuity using the black ground wire, and each of the orange wires.

all switches seem to work correctly when pressed. i even checked the operation of the slam switch on the door itself, and it also seems good, so all seems good from switches to interface.

not to hijack this thread, i will start a new topic titled "WPC-S help needed" if you want to follow along there.... thanks/sparky

I am just tossing it out there. If anyone has a roadshow topper FS, I would really like to buy one.

If you used your finger instead of a ball to test those switches, re test them with a ball.

Superbee, this post was referring to the coin door diagnostic switches, not playfield switches. No balls necessary. Sparky

Ahh, gotcha I missed that. Sorry!

Desparately trying to find some yellow replacement ramps. I emailed the company that has the licence to make them but because they are yellow they are not interested to make them. I suggested making them in clear and I am going to colour them myself. Did not even get an answer.
ANYBODY out there with some they want to sell?

Anyone ever see this? I think my flippers are too strong

20161027_201745 (resized).jpg

www.TiltGraphicsInc.com

Road-Show-111 (resized).jpg

Did my own hazard light topper. Led driven and 12V they easily hookup to some flashers. In the video I have activated blast zone that's why they seem to be going off all the time. Just waiting for a yellow hard hat to arrive to put in
between.

Going to leave the club soon if anyone is interested in joining PM me for details and description and pics.

hi,i am happy because RS will be back at home i will post pics as soon as it will be mine
i was looking for one since one year but it's not so easy to find it in good condition

Had to share this, because I think I got a smoking deal! Went to an estate sale, mainly since I was interested in the tools that were mentioned. The guy was a retired caltrans construction worker, and had amassed a very large collection of good tools. Well in the corner of his shop framed was a perfect RS translite. Got it for 50 bucks! Pretty excited. The current one in my game is damn near perfect, and this one is even nicer!

You could likely easily sell your original if you wanted and make it an even better deal...There has been a thread for someone looking for one for a while. Mine is ok, but I have been passively looking for one for a while and they aren't out there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-road-show-translight

Not selling it at the moment, but thank you.

How hard is it to fix problems with this pin for a beginner? Im really interested i purchasing one of these but i heard things blow quite frequently especially Ted's Head

It really isn't that bad. The heads are not as bad as people think honestly. The hardest part of this game is getting Ted out of the game. If I had to use a scale in terms of difficulty, I would say 5 out of 10. You can do it! Lots of info on the web, and of course here.

Ahh ok. I love this game but currently I'm learning how to disassemble a playfield and I've had a bunch of people tell me a lot won't bother fixing the heads. Last thing I want is something to blow and I can't fix it or find someone to help. I definetly want to own one in the future.

Anybody who won't fix the main feature of the game shouldn't be listened to. It is really not that bad. RS was my second game behind FH. I too was intimidated when Rudy broke, but I dove right in, and I personally think the difficulty of the heads is far over blown.

Any ideas my RS is not keeping the right date or time. I installed new battery's ect still same issue. Game plays fine

Dear Red, I'm sorry it hasn't been working out with us lately.. it's not you....it's me....I just don't see us together..you sure we're a gooood time though & maybe one day we will meet again. But, I found a new girl..her name is Metallica pro and she a gooood time too! Love, Ted

Was my first pin. I have been taking things apart since I was little, so I have a pretty good mechanical and electrical aptitude so it wasn't difficult at all. There is so much good info out there to help you along the way.

Just be methodical about how you take things apart, especially if they aren't going right back together. Take lots of pictures, organization is key, if possible re-insert screws back where they came from as long as you can so you don't lose them or track of where they go.

The Heads don't break that often in a home environment, IMHO most of the issues come from operators short-cutting on parts when they break down. Red is super easy to take out and fix if needed, Ted as has been said is the tricky one, but its always a good time to clean things since you have the ramp out and they NEVER get attention on location.

Really adds so much to the game, when they look dead and lifeless it really loses a bunch of charm.

hi he's back again and this time i won't sell it

IMG_20161203_143138 (resized).jpg

IMG_20161203_143156 (resized).jpg

IMG_20161203_144925 (resized).jpg

IMG_20161203_145617 (resized).jpg

I'm looking for that little blue thin plastic below the upper left flipper.

If anyone has this kicking around I'm willing to pay a fair price, thanks.