Hey RS owners! I'm in the club...almost. I picked up a project RS and I'm in need of a couple of parts. Hoping to get lucky here --I need the entire Back panel assembly including the flashers and rear diverter assembly. P/N A-19334. And I also need the left diverter blade assembly only (just the 1/4 rod with the diverter on top). P/N A-19042. Anyone parting out a RS or have either of these laying around? Thanks much!

Mike

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Red decided to have birth defects at Pin-A-Go-Go

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Looks like she has tied one too many on

Ted gave her a whack with the bulldozer because she wouldn't give him his paycheck.

Hey RS fans. The RS love was apparent in my "you should play RS" thread, but it's not a replacement for this one.

Just wanted to post a word of warning. Check the fuse in the main box inside the cabinet. Just below the right flipper.

After 10 years of ownership, I pulled mine out. It was some funky fuse. 5 amp 60 volt!

So it shows RS doesn't draw more than 5 amps for a prolonged time. The issue was the 60 v. If it did ever blow, the 60v rating wasn't high enough to prevent an arc at 120 v (USA power).

Might want to check yours.

(For USA it should be 8 amp 250v fast blow)

Does anyone have a spare Road Show Apron they want to sell? Any condition. Don't need the chrome bar that blocks the ball, just the apron and ball shooter covers for both sides. Anything will help restore my RS! Thanks, Mike PM me please.

Hello
Is it possible to buy new plastic ramps?
Or does anyone have any old ones to sell?

Almost all original ones are rusted.

Interesting. I'll check mine. What position?

Do you mean the location of the fuse? If so, in retrospect I agree I was a little vague. I'm referring to the fuse that is inside the box at the front right of the bottom cabinet. This is the box with the power switch. This fuse is inside a bayonet holder with a twist off cap.

... Altan

I read somewhere that Williams (or their provider) didn't prime this batch of aprons

Mine is in fair condition but there are some bubble areas and the paint has flaked off in a small area.

Yea. I don't mind refinishing and decaling one though.

Had a weird issue last night while playing. The sound started to randomly play the wrong sound clips, and at one point the music stopped, and came back playing the wrong song, then I started hearing voice clips from red I have never heard before, but her mouth wasn't moving.

I heard "looks like you had some trouble there, Ted" and "Blow it all up!" which I have noticed before.

I re-seated all the ribbon cables and it went away, but it was odd that I was hearing what I think were unused sound clips in the Rom.

Any of you guys have a spare part I need? I need the underplayfield rear trough assembly. It's the part that takes the ball from Ted's mouth to the pop up assembly. Please PM me if you have one. Thanks. Item Number 21 on the picture. Link to Pinside AD here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-part-needed-1

Thanks!

Mike

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Anybody know what goes in this spot in roadshow? Post of some sort? Mine is missing and my blade is off center.

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Good question!

I just looked at mine and it has a hole there also. As far as I know it must've been a last-minute change in the design. Nothing there...

Ted's doser blade is leaning left. Is there a guide or something that stops the blade from doing this? My guess is im missing a guide on the right?

When the blade goes up on mine, it leans a bit also. So either we are both missing the same thing or it's normal

100% normal!

Hey Guys, Im having a RS delivered to my house Tuesday I bought from an Estate sale. I would like to join this club!!!

This doesn't look too far left? Game is off, blade is down.

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Ah. We were talking 2 different things. One was blade tilted a bit when moving. But yours... Not horizontal when down is different. And sadly, that's not right.

I haven't looked at the blade mech in years but I wonder if yours is mounted wrong. Gave you looked at it from the bottom?

Nothing is supposed to be there, but you are missing the clear plastic that should be mounted to the dozed blade.

Anyone have any idea why when Red is in "Eyes Wide" mode, that her eyelids pop up but don't stay open the entire time the coil is firing?

I thought maybe the wrong spring was in there but I just replaced it with the correct part number one and still the same. New coil recently too.

Probably missing the centering flange, pinbits carries it.

Looks like the left bolt on the blade has become detached from the back of Teds head. I'm going to remove what I can from the top of Ted after work and see if I can reattach it.

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No, have one installed, The plunger clears the wood base no problem. In fact the problem came about after I replaced the plunger link and installed a new flange that was missing.

On mine, that side was very sloppy and I ended up putting a couple of nylon washers in line with the pivot, helped a lot.

Quoted from NonStopSwagger:
Anybody know what goes in this spot in roadshow? Post of some sort? Mine is missing and my blade is off center.

A single metal mini rubber post mounts at that location with a washer and locknut on the underside of the playfield, if you are missing a T-nut with the hex post version.
It was added due to balls getting wedged in that area of the bulldozer blade, or at least that was the reported reason.
I have seen balls on other games that this did occur and caused jamming of the blade motor and cracked blade.
Some games simply were missing the part from factory.

My game actually has two, one on each side, but were factory drilled and T-nutted at the factory, but I own a sample game.
This is unnecessary due to the post on the left side before the entrance to Ted, I have not seen many others with two posts.
Most later playfields still had at least the right hole based on playfield production, but I cannot speak for how many actually got the post installed before the game shipped out to distributors and ultimately to operators because the game was in production when the problem was reported.
I don't remember it being reported on service bulletins either, as it was operator feedback direct to tech support at Williams.
It was considered a "quick fix".

Other variations on this game included extended clear plastic flanges at the top of the blade during prototyping, but were removed in favor of the standard rubber pads that were ultimately used to reduce ball momentum, avoid a broken blade, the fact aesthetically the plastic shield looked uglier than hell, it was an unnecessary requirement as balls jumping over the blade was rare, and the ball search including lifting the blade in the software.

This is now the traditional way most people know what the "bulldozer" blade looks like.

There are bit of history in every game turn in pinball.

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Mine had the plastic on top of the dozer blade, took it off because it was horribly yellowed and warped and didn't see a point to it.

You should buy them if they are associated with a city, like Nashville & the belt buckle. You get bonus points for those after you've completed the city. You can sell them in Albuquerque but since the multiplier applies to the bonus points it's usually better to keep them.

This table is the free table of the month on the pinball arcade app, lots of good tips and instructions on meeting the goals.

Air Freshener 20M New York
Baggy Shorts 20M Seattle
Baseball Cap 5M Atlanta
Belt Buckle 3M Nashville
Box Kite 8M Kansas City
Coffee Mug 750K Ohio
Cowboy Hat 6M Dallas
Deck of Cards 10M Las Vegas
Fireworks 7M New Orleans
Fool's Gold 20M Denver
Pennant 1M Chicago
Rubber Spear 2M Minneapolis
Salt Shakers 750K Salt Lake City
Sandals 12M San Francisco
Sunglasses 8M Los Angeles
Suntan Lotion 20M Miami
T-Shirt 4M Albuquerque
Treasure Map 10M Butte

These are the souvenirs and associated cities, there are also the 3 pinballs that come up occasionally, that lead to EB lights or extra balls entirely.

Any others, don't buy.

Good bit of history there, thanks! So I can sleep easy now without that post. Never had any issues with stuck balls and the doser.

Screwed in the back left bolt to Teds head tonight, game is playing perfectly again.

Thanks all!

She should fall asleep when the game is over. If she doesn't her eyes are broken. Mine are.

Need some advice with the circular gear under Red. One of the teeth on the gear is broken, so I'm installing a replacement I bought at Marcos, and it is ROUGH. The gear doesn't move very freely at all with the other gears. Anything I can do to make it run smoother? Like a graphite lubricant or something? I'm afraid to even test it with power until I can move it easier with my hand.

I bought that same circular gear about a year ago and found the same. Ended up getting a refund for them and used the originals I had. Are your originals really bad? It's usually the quarter circle "sector gear" that gets wrecked.

I don't know anything about the Marco ones, but i purchased some from PB life and they work great.

Not really bad, no. One of the teeth on the smaller part of the gear is broken off, so it causes the mouth to slip on the part of the gear sometimes. The sector gear is fine. It's not a big deal, but I just got the pin so I'm looking for stuff to fix. Glad to hear it isn't just me.

altan: I'll have to try the PB life one next time I place an order there. Thanks.

Can anyone offer some advice on flipper alignment? I rebuilt my flippers and didn't take a picture of the alignment before I started. The flippers look reasonably where they should be but I can't help but notice I CAN'T MAKE A DAMN SHOT since I rebuilt them LOL. And the bunker in particular seems damn near impossible to hit right now.

Something isn't as it should be.

Would appreciate any advice as this play field doesn't have those little alignment holes I'm not really sure where it should be.

Thanks

Alignment of flippers should be performed with rubber rings on, so that the lower edges coincide with the inlane guides.
They should form a "straight parallel line".
I will explain why in a second.
The alignment holes are used as guides, usually with toothpicks in the roll pins, but are not "absolutes".
Exclusive alignment hole use versus the above method requires that the rubber flipper rings are OFF for best adjustment as per factory adjustment, but I prefer the previous method, as you do not need to make adjustments twice.

However, keep in mind when tightening the cranks that the full up position of the flippers is just as important as the rest position.
Before fully tightening, raise both flippers to the top of their limits to check the spacing and vertical angle alignment.
They should be mirror images of each other with an equal gap at the limits of stroke.
If they don't, readjust with a little push or pull, or there is a difference in plunger lengths (wrong type), if they are completely off and cannot be properly equalled.
You will understand when you see it.

Just a heads up, new playfields are being made https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-teds-road-show-repro-playfield-list-starting

60% normal!

Has anyone got any cabinet decal files?

A bud has my old RS which needs cab decals badly.

Any leads, let me know ...

Dave.

I'm also looking for the two ramp decals for the right ramp - can somebody provide photos or scans?

They were made at one point, someone might have a set about

Anyone have a line on a shooter lane exit gate assembly...mainly the check-valve flap? Thanx in advance.

(Sigh) I left the club this week. This is such an underrated game. I was out of space and needed to make room for a HUO SM. Mine was in collector condition and played great. Great shots and awesome gameplay. My only complaint is the linear (not quite) gameplay. The taxi driver is just around a little too often. SM was the last game really on my had to own list so I guess it was a legitimate sacrifice. Fortunately I still have one close by to play.

I dislike country music but I loved this game and never found it turned me off. The theme was well executed. Goodbye Red & Ted.

Auto Eddy Sensor Board. In case you've been looking for these--back in stock at pinbits.com

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_25&products_id=203&zenid=2e42ec3101e7a8eb9e1cf3d741d5d55a

Mike

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Soo, high voltage on the DMD was acting up. The question was to fix it or do something a little more drastic.

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Yeah. Totally worth it. Looks great in High-Res mode, the cartoony look suits the game. Now Just need to find a new backbox to replace my lost cause one.

Wow that looks awesome. .... might have the invest in one of these one day!

Can somebody tell me the trick how to hit the lower left orange standup-target? I think I never ever hit it.