(Topic ID: 97271)

Road Kings: no special soleniods & flippers always work

By Spaceship

9 years ago


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  • 29 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Spaceship
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#1 9 years ago

I am going through a Road Kings that I got in unknown condition. The displays are out and I'm waiting for parts to rebuild the high voltage supply, but that's another story.

Regardless of the displays it boots and I can start a game, but none of the special solenoids work (all 4 pop bumpers and 2 slingshots). the special solenoid fuse is good, and I get 25v at the fuse. Also the flippers work before starting a game even.

I haven't dug into this too much yet, but any insight that might save me time is greatly appreciated!

#2 9 years ago

If i ground out the tabs on each of the driver transistors the coils fire, so the power to transistor chains are okay

#3 9 years ago

you might need to chase some trons. I bet there's a bad logic chip keeping the flippers on and the specials off. If you have a logic probe you could find or eliminate that possibility in a couple minutes.

#4 9 years ago

I think you can test it with a dmm also. The hi's should be about 5v, and the lo's will be about 1v.

#5 9 years ago

I guess I might as well get a logic probe and learn how to use it. Just digesting the schematic but im a little new to this. Looks like the special solenoids and flippers are split up between two 7402 chips, I cant see where the path goes from there because the schematic I have is missing a page (its split up into 4 diagrams and I only have 3..) can anyone help with a complete schematic?

#6 9 years ago

Schematic is on IPDB. I went through a couple Sys 11 boards recently and was thinking flippers are not part of the special solenoids and that you have two issues.

Check the Flipper Relay K1 and the transistor that drives it.

Check this for a primer on the specials http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Special_solenoid_problems

Logic probe was very handy.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

Schematic is on IPDB. I went through a couple Sys 11 boards recently and was thinking flippers are not part of the special solenoids and that you have two issues.

Two of the gates that control the flipper enable are on U50. U50 is also used on two of the special solenoids, so they are related.

#8 9 years ago

the ipdb schematic is what I have and out of 4 pages for the cpu schematic it only has page 1, 3, and 4, with page 2 left out. Id be grateful to anyone who can help me out with the missing diagram.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Two of the gates that control the flipper enable are on U50. U50 is also used on two of the special solenoids, so they are related.

Cool - I didn't have to go back that far in the logic for flippers. My special solenoids, however, were a fun challenge to figure out.

Try the IPDB for other Sys 1 that use that same revision board.

#10 9 years ago

I'll check in the morning for you.....pretty sure they are all in the back of my manual...... .......Joey

#11 9 years ago

i took btw75's advice and looked up another sys 11 on ipdb and found the full diagram, so dont go to the trouble. thanks!

#12 9 years ago

Np....glad you got it....hope you get her going....RK is much fun........Joey

2 months later
#13 9 years ago

After going on a month long motorcycle trip I am digging back into this problem. I checked the logic paths with my DMM and I suspect that U50 is bad. Ill post the schematic here, so maybe if somebody with more experience working on boards can pipe in and let me know if im on the right track or not..

Looking at the logic gate on pins 11, 12, and 13 on U50, as I understand it only when both inputs go LOW will the output go HIGH. When I start a game 11, and 12 go low which, based on my understanding of this schematic, should cause 13 to go high. However pin 13 remains low, going through an inverter (U56) and holding pins on the rest of the NOR gates high so the special solenoids will never energize. If it were working properly and pin 13 were going HIGH and then inverting to LOW pulling one side of each logic gate LOW, and I presume that the other leg of the gate would go LOW when the switch is closed, so that the two lows would give a HIGH output and fire the solenoid. so it seems that the output at pin 13 of U50 should switch when a game is started, enabling both the flippers and special solenoids.

But my flippers are always on, the flipper relay closing as soon as the machine is powered on. Q67 tests okay, and with the game on I'm not getting 5v at the collector, so I think the relay coil must have a path to ground somewhere else. The diode right there is shorted, and some of the resistors measure lower then they should (although I'm not sure if measuring them as part of a circuit will give a proper reading anyways).

I think I understand the issue with the special solenoids, but just don't understand why the flipper relay is being closed.

special solenoids schematic.jpgspecial solenoids schematic.jpg

#14 9 years ago

Man I wish I could ride my bike for a month....good for you....what are you riding..?...here's my baby....good luck again on the pin.........Joey
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#15 9 years ago
Quoted from Spaceship:

so I think the relay coil must have a path to ground somewhere else. The diode right there is shorted, and some of the resistors measure lower then they should (although I'm not sure if measuring them as part of a circuit will give a proper reading anyways).
I think I understand the issue with the special solenoids, but just don't understand why the flipper relay is being closed.

With the game off, check resistance from the anode of D3 to ground for roughly a couple hundred ohms in circuit resistance. If you have a failed R90 10K resistor, as soon as power is applied at pin 14 of the relays coil, the coil will energize because a low resistance path to ground is present.

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#16 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

With the game off, check resistance from the anode of D3 to ground for roughly a couple hundred ohms in circuit resistance. If you have a failed R90 10K resistor, as soon as power is applied at pin 14 of the relays coil, the coil will energize because a low resistance path to ground is present.

I get about 120 ohms

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

Man I wish I could ride my bike for a month....good for you....what are you riding..?...here's my baby....good luck again on the pin.........Joey

Ive got a 1978 Honda Goldwing. Had a great trip! Along the way I was able to stop at the Seattle Pinball Museum, Las Vegas Pinball hall of fame, and also a pretty decent little pinball arcade in Fargo, ND. Plus alot of great scenery along the way!

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#18 9 years ago

I'm going to say that multiple gates on U50 are bad.

The gate that turns on the enable to the special solenoids and flippers is probably not working (pins 11, 12 and 13). Thus no special solenoids)

But then the one that enables the flippers (pins 8,9 and 10) is probably stuck open so that the flippers always work.

Socket and replace U50 and this will probably be resolved.

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from Spaceship:

I get about 120 ohms

Hmm, hard to say if that is enough. It's kind of low, but might be high enough to keep the relay off. But U50 not working right supercedes that. If U50 pin 10 isn't toggling at game start, and keeping Q67 turned on that will do it for certain - plus it's highly suspect anyway if the special solenoids are not working or stuck on. Replace U50 as Kbliznick suggested. I would also lift one leg of R90 and make sure it's fairly close to 10K ohms while doing that work when the board is out.

#20 9 years ago

I've seen really similar behavior from U50 being bad. And I've had a few games where *both* 7402s were bad.

#21 9 years ago

U50 Pin10 stays low but the flipper relay still energizes. ive got parts coming from digikey, got two 7402s just incase (U45 is already socketed), a replacement diode and some 10k resisters, and ive got some pre driver transistors around. Parts should get here today or tomorrow and Ill do some more poking around once ive got the board on the bench. thanks everyone

#22 9 years ago

Hopefully the relay is still good after replacing those parts.

#23 9 years ago

If it clicks on and off when the game is powercycled, odds are, it's fine.

If not, GPE has replacements for $4.50, I've used a handful. Good stuff!

#24 9 years ago

okay, so I got the parts, replaced U50, and the diode, resisters, and transistor close to the relay. Special solenoids work now! wooo! and the flippers dont activate until I start a game! yay! and i have no sound... WTF?!?

so ya, now no sound during the game, in sound test diagnostic, or when pushing the sound test button on the main board. man, what the hell.

#25 9 years ago

sound worked fine before

#26 9 years ago

Go over all your connectors again.

Compare the 2 4-pin connectors on the lower left corner of the CPU board. Possible they could be swapped....

#27 9 years ago

also, in an odd twist the flippers and special solenoids are active during diagnostic tests. is that normal?

#28 9 years ago

yes, those are supposed to be active in diagnostic. Dead in attract mode.

#29 9 years ago

oh, yah, hehe. I had J15 and J16 mixed up. both 4 pin connectors next to eachother. One goes to the music board and one to the speaker.

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