A friend's Riverboat Gambler is having some problems when it starts a game. It will sometimes kick out a ball and reset or just plain reset without kicking out a ball. Other times when it powers up. It starts a cycle of the lift crank assembly on the ramp moves a little, followed by the left drop target solenoid energizing and all the controlled lights will go out and then come back on. I've also noticed that the +5VAC and blanking leds on the MPU board are solidly lit, and the diagnosis led is blinking. The diagnosis and the blanking led will go out when the left drop target solenoid is energized. I've reseated all the connectors on the MPU board and there is nothing that jumps out at me on the MPU board that looks fried. Now when I go into the solenoid test, it will try to energize the fifth solenoid, xx and reset the game. I've reseating all the connectors on the MPU, Power Supply, Auxiliary Power Supply and Interconnect board. Also, I've reflowed the solder on all the connectors on the MPU and Power Supply Board as well. I've noticed on the power supply board that I get 5.01 volts exactly, however for the +12 volt test point I get about +9.5 volts and on the -12 volt test point I get about -13.5 volts. I have a capacitor kit coming for the power supply board since some of the capacitors look original and others look newer. Also I'm thinking the 2N6057 transistor at Q5 on the power supply board could be bad as well so I might change it out as well based on some searches I've run across. Any suggestions on where to start to troubleshoot this?

I recapped the power supply board last night and got the +12 volt test point to show +13.5 volts, with the -12 volt test point showing -13.5 volt and the +5 volt test point unchanged at +5.01 volts. Fast forward to today and the +12 volt test point is showing +8.68 volts. I have a Q5 transistor on order, so hopefully that will clear things up.

Today, my shipment from Marcos came in and I was able to replace the Q5 transistor, but that didn't make any difference. Thinking ahead I had a new bridge rectifier come in too and changed in out (BR1) and the game stopped resetting. Now if I can just get the game to quickly recognize a drain for ball one and kick out ball two, then I think I have gotten everything totally repaired!

So...I was able to fix the outhole problem plus a bunch of other solenoids by adding a little bit of solder to all the connector pins/bridge rectifiers on the auxiliary power driver unit board.