(Topic ID: 181829)

Rivet die size and rivets for ramps

By hoby1

7 years ago


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  • 31 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by HoakyPoaky
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    #1 7 years ago

    Anyone know what size dies and rivets to use. Would like to find some on the cheap maybe eBay and use in my drill press

    Any info would be helpful

    #2 7 years ago

    I'm not sure all games are created equal as far as rivets, but I used 3/32" x 5/32" from Marco in order to repair the ramps on my Hardbody. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/07-6688-4

    And used this hand held tool set from Amazon to set them:
    https://www.amazon.com/DYWISHKEY-Leather-Setter-Install-Button/dp/B01N7JGBKM/ref=sr_1_2

    Note in this case, the 3/32" diameter is of the rivet shaft and 5/32" is the length. Head diameter is rarely given, or at least was rare in my experience any how.

    Also pay attention to solid vs. tubular vs. semi-tubular rivets, in my pin they were of the semi-tubular variety.

    Hope this helps and gives you a start!

    IMG_4192superbright (resized).jpgIMG_4192superbright (resized).jpg

    #3 7 years ago

    I get my rivets and dies from Hanson Rivets....

    http://www.hansonrivet.com/

    Generally the rivets used on pinballs are 1/8" diameter, semi-tubular, oval head in varying lengths. There are several materials but I use steel rivets. The sizes I stock (and the Hanson stock numbers) are

    3/16" (C-6-ST)
    7/32" (C-7-ST)
    1/4" (C-8-ST)
    9/32" (C-9-ST)
    5/16" (C-10-ST)

    I purchase these rivets in lots of 100 and they are around $0.06 per rivet.

    I have a rivet press but also use a hand held roll over die since the press can't always reach. This hand held (HT-174) could be used for all 1/8" riveting of semi-tubular rivets... Rivet head just needs to be supported on a very hard surface. I have even taken a 3/8" bolt and cupped the bottom to support the rivets while hammered.

    The hand held roll over die can be found here...

    http://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/solid-rivet-tools-machines/hand-rivet-clinchers/

    5 months later
    #4 6 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    I get my rivets and dies from Hanson Rivets....
    http://www.hansonrivet.com/
    Generally the rivets used on pinballs are 1/8" diameter, semi-tubular, oval head in varying lengths. There are several materials but I use steel rivets. The sizes I stock (and the Hanson stock numbers) are
    3/16" (C-6-ST)
    7/32" (C-7-ST)
    1/4" (C-8-ST)
    9/32" (C-9-ST)
    5/16" (C-10-ST)
    I purchase these rivets in lots of 100 and they are around $0.06 per rivet.
    I have a rivet press but also use a hand held roll over die since the press can't always reach. This hand held (HT-174) could be used for all 1/8" riveting of semi-tubular rivets... Rivet head just needs to be supported on a very hard surface. I have even taken a 3/8" bolt and cupped the bottom to support the rivets while hammered.
    The hand held roll over die can be found here...
    http://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/solid-rivet-tools-machines/hand-rivet-clinchers/

    This is super helpful! Can you give me the part number of the squeezer die? I was thinking about getting this as well http://www.erivet.com/storefront_product_detail.cfm?itemnbr=HS-30E. Do you have any experience with their hand squeezers?

    #5 6 years ago

    If you look at some of the stuff that is riveted on pinball machines...notably a ramp for instance...you will see that a hand squeezer will not be able to reach rivets in the bottom of the ramp. I do not own a hand squeezer and see no need to have one. You will be much better off with a rivet press like the one shown here...

    http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

    I built my own for around $100 with a Harbor Freight arbor press.

    The arbor press and the hand held roll over die can handle pretty much anything on a pinball.

    #6 6 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    If you look at some of the stuff that is riveted on pinball machines...notably a ramp for instance...you will see that a hand squeezer will not be able to reach rivets in the bottom of the ramp. I do not own a hand squeezer and see no need to have one. You will be much better off with a rivet press like the one shown here...
    http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html
    I built my own for around $100 with a Harbor Freight arbor press.
    The arbor press and the hand held roll over die can handle pretty much anything on a pinball.

    I think PinRestore has stopped selling the parts and building those. Ideally I wanted the Third Hand Rivet tool (http://www.arbortime.com/) but unfortunately that is also out of production. I spoke with the guy who manufactures that, and he can't even get the horseshoe clamps anymore as that company has stopped production as well.

    On my machine, I don't have an example of where that squeezer couldn't reach, but you are correct perhaps there are pins where you couldn't get to the location you need.

    I struggle to see why this is so hard. I feel like there should be an easy way to accomplish riveting, but apparently it's a lot of money and headache no matter which direction I go. Even looking at your part numbers for rivits above...Hanson no longer has 9/32nd or 10/32nd 1/8'' rivets on their site. I was going to buy a nice collection like you illustrated, and the damn things are not even available!

    Speaking of...the actual part numbers are now

    3/16" (C1-6-ST)
    7/32" (C1-7-ST)
    1/4" (C1-8-ST)

    The "C1" defines the oval type rivet.

    #7 6 years ago

    I did leave the "1" off my rivet types in error, but I do not see where they have discontinued any sizes. Did you try calling them?

    #8 6 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    I did leave the "1" off my rivet types in error, but I do not see where they have discontinued any sizes. Did you try calling them?

    Nope, I was strictly using the site. I'll try to call tomorrow.

    #9 6 years ago

    On the product list they show a red asterisk. You simply add the length there to your order. All lengths are in 1/32"...So a 9/32" length would obviously be a 9... A 1/4" length would be an 8, a 3/16" would be a 6, etc.

    Be sure you order some washers as well. Whenever the rolled over portion of a rivet would be in direct contact with plastic, you need to use a washer.

    I stock basically 2 sizes of washers:

    BUP-4S (Use this one the most)
    WS-0808

    #10 6 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    On the product list they show a red asterisk. You simply add the length there to your order. All lengths are in 1/32"...So a 9/32" length would obviously be a 9... A 1/4" length would be an 8, a 3/16" would be a 6, etc.
    Be sure you order some washers as well. Whenever the rolled over portion of a rivet would be in direct contact with plastic, you need to use a washer.
    I stock basically 2 sizes of washers:
    BUP-4S (Use this one the most)
    WS-0808

    Lacking the arbor press tool, what would you recommend? I don't quite understand how the manual tool works. Where do you set the second half of the die?

    #11 6 years ago

    I don't even use the second half of the die (the die that holds the head of the rivet). In my arbor press I use a 5/16" bolt with the bottom ground into a cup to support the rivet head. When I use the hand held die I put a similar bolt in my vise and then just hammer the rivet. Sometimes I just position the piece I am riveting over one of the vise jaws and hammer away. I posted a short video of me using the hand held roll over die here...

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-custom-ramps/page/8

    If you aren't going to do a lot of riveting, the hand held tool could be used for everything.

    7 months later
    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    I get my rivets and dies from Hanson Rivets....
    http://www.hansonrivet.com/
    Generally the rivets used on pinballs are 1/8" diameter, semi-tubular, oval head in varying lengths. There are several materials but I use steel rivets. The sizes I stock (and the Hanson stock numbers) are
    3/16" (C-6-ST)
    7/32" (C-7-ST)
    1/4" (C-8-ST)
    9/32" (C-9-ST)
    5/16" (C-10-ST)
    I purchase these rivets in lots of 100 and they are around $0.06 per rivet.
    I have a rivet press but also use a hand held roll over die since the press can't always reach. This hand held (HT-174) could be used for all 1/8" riveting of semi-tubular rivets... Rivet head just needs to be supported on a very hard surface. I have even taken a 3/8" bolt and cupped the bottom to support the rivets while hammered.
    The hand held roll over die can be found here...
    http://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/solid-rivet-tools-machines/hand-rivet-clinchers/

    Thanks for this, Freeplay40 ! I've been having a helluva time figuring out what I needed, and this post crystallized it for me. The stock numbers have changed--they're now C1-6-ST through C1-10-ST, but I didn't sound like a complete idiot on the phone.

    One note: Hanson's website doesn't do online ordering, so you have to call. But the rivets were less than half of the cost of place I found (Grainger) that did online orders), so the phone call was worth it.

    #13 5 years ago

    Great info!

    #14 5 years ago
    Quoted from HughesDForce:

    Thanks for this, freeplay40 ! I've been having a helluva time figuring out what I needed, and this post crystallized it for me. The stock numbers have changed--they're now C1-6-ST through C1-10-ST, but I didn't sound like a complete idiot on the phone.
    One note: Hanson's website doesn't do online ordering, so you have to call. But the rivets were less than half of the cost of place I found (Grainger) that did online orders), so the phone call was worth it.

    Hanson's estore is https://www.erivet.com
    Their stuff can also be found on amazon/ebay/etc

    #15 5 years ago
    Quoted from flynnibus:

    Hanson's estore is https://www.erivet.com
    Their stuff can also be found on amazon/ebay/etc

    Thanks for the heads-up. I had no idea, and they could certainly do a better job of calling that out on their "regular" website.

    3 weeks later
    #17 5 years ago

    What is the most commonly used rivet material in pinball machines, Nickel Plated Brass, Steel, Aluminium or Stainless Steel? The reason for the question is I believed that they are Nickel Plated Brass, however the part numbers listed above are only for the other 3 material types - Steel, Aluminium and Stainless Steel. What are people using?

    #18 5 years ago

    I do a lot of disassembly of old ramps to put parts onto new ramps. Generally I've seen both nickel plated steel and nickel plated brass. I use steel rivets for what I do. The plated brass rivets require less pressure to crimp and are easier to remove than the steel rivets.

    #19 5 years ago

    My experience has been nickel plated brass.

    #20 5 years ago

    Thanks for the replies. Do Haneon sell the nickel plated brass rivets? I couldn't find a listing using the part numbers listed above.

    1 year later
    #21 4 years ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    I'm not sure all games are created equal as far as rivets, but I used 3/32" x 5/32" from Marco in order to repair the ramps on my Hardbody. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/07-6688-4
    And used this hand held tool set from Amazon to set them:
    amazon.com link »
    Note in this case, the 3/32" diameter is of the rivet shaft and 5/32" is the length. Head diameter is rarely given, or at least was rare in my experience any how.
    Also pay attention to solid vs. tubular vs. semi-tubular rivets, in my pin they were of the semi-tubular variety.
    Hope this helps and gives you a start!

    [quoted image]

    The link to the handheld tool is not available. Is it a pop rivet gun? And where did you find the metal flaps to fix it?

    #22 4 years ago
    Quoted from yellowghost:

    The link to the handheld tool is not available. Is it a pop rivet gun? And where did you find the metal flaps to fix it?

    Hand held rivet die and punch set:
    https://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-11pcs-Setter-Install-Button/dp/B00QWE5PR6/ref=sr_1_36

    I purchased spring steel from them also
    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-FSS006

    I have now made a press from the HF arbor press using the link provided in this topic.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rivet-dies-needed-#post-4993635

    61lvN-s8tcL._SL1001_ (resized).jpg61lvN-s8tcL._SL1001_ (resized).jpg
    #23 4 years ago

    Post two hanson rivet is the way to go . Quality tool!!!

    #24 4 years ago

    The Hanson HS-30E hand tool works well in most situations, even ramp flaps. Add an HT174 and you should be good for the rare cases where the tool can't reach.

    #25 4 years ago

    Could

    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Hand held rivet die and punch set:
    amazon.com link »
    I purchased spring steel from them also
    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-FSS006
    I have now made a press from the HF arbor press using the link provided in this topic.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rivet-dies-needed-#post-4993635[quoted image]

    You reckon a pop rivet gun could work on a hardbody ramp. Might be a bit large but hard to justify buying a tool I might only use once.

    #26 4 years ago
    Quoted from yellowghost:

    Could

    You reckon a pop rivet gun could work on a hardbody ramp. Might be a bit large but hard to justify buying a tool I might only use once.

    Pop tool may put too much stress on the plastic. Plus it'll look cheap.
    Maybe see if you have a nearby pinhead you can give the ramp to, that has the proper tools, for a fee/beer.

    #27 4 years ago

    See if @freeplay40 can help you out, hes in WA

    2 weeks later
    #28 4 years ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    See if @freeplay40 can help you out, hes in WA

    I found somebody who has the tool to install the rivets, but I need to remove the ramp. Do you recall how the top flap connects to the split playfield? I know it has something to do with those 2 phillips woodscrews.

    #29 4 years ago
    Quoted from yellowghost:

    Do you recall how the top flap connects to the split playfield? I know it has something to do with those 2 phillips woodscrews.

    I can't recall exactly. I am inclined to think the two phillips screws attached to a rectangle bracket that secured the slotted piece of the ramp bracket to the upper playfield.
    Here is a pic of my ramps removed, you might browse the Hardbody club topic, see if there is anything in there that may help. I looked for other pics in my files but couldn't find anything else.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardbody-club-lets-get-physical-physical

    IMG_4033 (resized).JPGIMG_4033 (resized).JPG
    #30 4 years ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    I can't recall exactly. I am inclined to think the two phillips screws attached to a rectangle bracket that secured the slotted piece of the ramp bracket to the upper playfield.
    Here is a pic of my ramps removed, you might browse the Hardbody club topic, see if there is anything in there that may help. I looked for other pics in my files but couldn't find anything else.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardbody-club-lets-get-physical-physical[quoted image]

    Thats what I am reckoning too. Thanks

    2 years later

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