(Topic ID: 252870)

(SOLVED) Right slingshot still not working


By JWitty

12 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 75 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 75 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 11 days ago

I’m in Iowa. If radio shack was still in business I’d get ahold of them. I don’t think there’s any stores around me that sells electronic components.

I was also going to ask...I’m thinking of replacing all the caps on the sound board and power supply just as a preventative maintenance. Would this be a good idea to just get done now? If so, I don’t know a lot about capacitors and may need help with getting right one.

Btw grumpy and vireland, I greatly appreciate all the help you two are doing. I owe you guys a 6 pack each.

#52 11 days ago

I like to keep some TIP102, 2n4401, 1n4007 and a selection of fuses on hand at all times.

#53 11 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I like to keep some TIP102, 2n4401, 1n4007 and a selection of fuses on hand at all times.

I think I should be good on all of those from my last order, but I’ll check and replenish if I need to. Thanks!

#54 11 days ago

Rebuilding the power supply is the best thing you can do when you buy a used pin.

#55 11 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Rebuilding the power supply is the best thing you can do when you buy a used pin.

Ok I have no idea when this thing was last gone through. So I will do that. I hope it’s not too much to ask, but what capacitors will I need for the power supply? I can figure out resistors (I’m just going to replace everything on the power supply since there isn’t much). Anything else?

#56 11 days ago

Big Daddy's Enterprises has cap kits for system 11a power supplies at a very good price. Check it out and see if he has everything you need for a single order. You will also need a bridge rectifier for the power supply rebuild.

#57 11 days ago

Post a pic of the power supply.

#58 11 days ago

Here’s the power supply, sound board, some big capacitor, and another board I figured I could rebuild while I’m in here.

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#59 11 days ago
Quoted from JWitty:

Ok I have no idea when this thing was last gone through. So I will do that. I hope it’s not too much to ask, but what capacitors will I need for the power supply? I can figure out resistors (I’m just going to replace everything on the power supply since there isn’t much). Anything else?

I just buy a kit when I rebuild power supply boards. That way I know I'm getting everything I need. The giant cap off-board has to be bought separately, if you want to do that, too.

#60 11 days ago

Don't worry about the 3rd. pic (flipper power supply) and 4th. pic. Now for the power supply, someone has replaced the high wattage resistors for the high voltage display power (good) but all of the caps, diodes and bridge rectifier are still original and should be replaced. The sound board isn't as important, but the electrolytic caps could be replaced whenever you have time.

#61 11 days ago

Here are what you need to replace. 8 Caps. 5 Diodes. 1 Bridge.

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#62 11 days ago

Ok the caps will be in the kit so that’s covered. Are the diodes 1n4007 like the coil diodes? Or are they a different kind. (Looks like all are the same kind) I have no idea how to tell those diodes apart. Then does the bridge have a number on it somewhere. I think it says test on it, but can’t remember if they have numbers. And what about the think on the huge heat sink?

#63 11 days ago
Quoted from JWitty:

Are the diodes 1n4007 like the coil diodes?

Any time a 1n400x diode is called for, you can use a 1n4007 as a replacement.

Quoted from JWitty:

Then does the bridge have a number on it somewhere.

Yes is does, but there are better replacements available like, ebay.com link » 1 5pcs Lot 1000v 50a Metal Case Single Phase Diode Bridge Rectifier Kbpc5010 Usa

#64 11 days ago
Quoted from JWitty:

And what about the think on the huge heat sink?

Don't worry about this power transistor unless you are having issues with the 5 volts.

#65 11 days ago

Ok I’ll get everything ordered and get back you guys more than likely a couple days.

#66 10 days ago

I was looking at slides and saw one has number 1n4763 and saw others had different numbers. Does anyone know what every diode number is. I don’t really want to start Desoldering all the diodes to get the numbers from them if someone has them on hand. Thanks.

#67 10 days ago
Quoted from JWitty:

I was looking at slides and saw one has number 1n4763 and saw others had different numbers. Does anyone know what every diode number is. I don’t really want to start Desoldering all the diodes to get the numbers from them if someone has them on hand. Thanks.

From the wiki:

Rebuilding the 100 volt Power Supply Section.
If any of the high voltage fuses are blowing, you probably need to rebuild the 100 volt power supply section. You will need to replace the following parts on the power supply board.
Positive System 11 100 volt section parts to replace:
•Q1 = MJE15030 transistor. On older games that specify a SDS201 transistor (which is no longer available), the leads of the MJE15030 transistor must be "twisted" so the emitter, base and collector match the circuit board. You can also use a MJE340 (NPN 300 volt transistor) or a 2N3440 with a "star" heat sink.
•Q2 = 2N5401 (PNP 150 volt transistor).
•Z1 = 1N4730A (3.9 volt 1 watt diode).
•ZR2 (Z2) = 1N4764A (100 volt, 1 watt) diode. Use 1N4763A (91 volt, 1 watt) diode instead (to increase score display life).
•R1 = 39k ohm, 1 or 2 watt flame proof resistor.
•R2 = 680 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•R3 = 330k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•C2 = 0.1 mfd 250 volt metal polyester capacitor.

Negative SYstem 11 100 volt section parts to replace
•Q3 = MJE15031 transistor. On older games that specify a SDS202 transistor (which is no longer available), the leads of the MJE15031 transistor must be "twisted" so the emitter, base and collector match the circuit board. You can also use a MJE350 (PNP 300 volt transistor) or a 2N5416 with a "star" heat sink.
•Q4 = 2N5551 (NPN 140 volt transistor).
•Z3 = 1N4730A (3.9 volt 1 watt diode).
•ZR4 (Z4) = 1N4764A (100 volt, 1 watt) diode. Use 1N4763A (91 volt, 1 watt) diode instead (to increase score display life).
•R4 = 39k ohm, 1 or 2 watt flame proof resistor.
•R5 = 680 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•R6 = 330k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•C4 = 0.1 mfd 250 volt metal polyester capacitor.

The regular (non-zener) diodes all look to be 1N4001 according to the schematic.

#68 10 days ago

Is there a diagram to show the letter/number of each component? My power supply doesn’t have anything on it.

I put in a close up of the diodes

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#69 10 days ago

Also, what are these blue capacitors? Can’t find the same ones on digikey. Also c25 and c28. Mainly worried about c28 cause it has a small black mark. (This is on soundboard).

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#70 10 days ago
Quoted from JWitty:

Is there a diagram to show the letter/number of each component?

Yep.

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#71 10 days ago
Quoted from JWitty:

I put in a close up of the diodes

The 1n400x diodes D-1 thru D-6 can be replace with upgraded 1n4007 diodes.

#72 10 days ago
Quoted from JWitty:

Also, what are these blue capacitors?

10uf 25volt electrolytic capacitors.

Quoted from JWitty:

Also c25 and c28. Mainly worried about c28 cause it has a small black mark.

It's dirt. Only replace the the electrolytic caps.

#73 8 days ago

Well guys, the game is finally fixed! Decided just to plug everything and try it with the new chip, and the right sling is back in business. Thank you GRUMPY and vireland for all your help! And to others that joined in earlier. It’s about time this thing is working after a year of sitting! Thanks again!

#74 8 days ago
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#75 8 days ago

Yay! Success is always a great end to a thread!

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