I like to keep some TIP102, 2n4401, 1n4007 and a selection of fuses on hand at all times.

Rebuilding the power supply is the best thing you can do when you buy a used pin.

Big Daddy's Enterprises has cap kits for system 11a power supplies at a very good price. Check it out and see if he has everything you need for a single order. You will also need a bridge rectifier for the power supply rebuild.

Post a pic of the power supply.

I just buy a kit when I rebuild power supply boards. That way I know I'm getting everything I need. The giant cap off-board has to be bought separately, if you want to do that, too.

Don't worry about the 3rd. pic (flipper power supply) and 4th. pic. Now for the power supply, someone has replaced the high wattage resistors for the high voltage display power (good) but all of the caps, diodes and bridge rectifier are still original and should be replaced. The sound board isn't as important, but the electrolytic caps could be replaced whenever you have time.

Here are what you need to replace. 8 Caps. 5 Diodes. 1 Bridge.

ff (resized).jpg

Any time a 1n400x diode is called for, you can use a 1n4007 as a replacement.

Yes is does, but there are better replacements available like, ebay.com link: 1 5PCS LOT 1000V 50A Metal Case Single Phase Diode Bridge Rectifier KBPC5010 USA

Don't worry about this power transistor unless you are having issues with the 5 volts.

From the wiki:

Rebuilding the 100 volt Power Supply Section.
If any of the high voltage fuses are blowing, you probably need to rebuild the 100 volt power supply section. You will need to replace the following parts on the power supply board.
Positive System 11 100 volt section parts to replace:
•Q1 = MJE15030 transistor. On older games that specify a SDS201 transistor (which is no longer available), the leads of the MJE15030 transistor must be "twisted" so the emitter, base and collector match the circuit board. You can also use a MJE340 (NPN 300 volt transistor) or a 2N3440 with a "star" heat sink.
•Q2 = 2N5401 (PNP 150 volt transistor).
•Z1 = 1N4730A (3.9 volt 1 watt diode).
•ZR2 (Z2) = 1N4764A (100 volt, 1 watt) diode. Use 1N4763A (91 volt, 1 watt) diode instead (to increase score display life).
•R1 = 39k ohm, 1 or 2 watt flame proof resistor.
•R2 = 680 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•R3 = 330k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•C2 = 0.1 mfd 250 volt metal polyester capacitor.

Negative SYstem 11 100 volt section parts to replace
•Q3 = MJE15031 transistor. On older games that specify a SDS202 transistor (which is no longer available), the leads of the MJE15031 transistor must be "twisted" so the emitter, base and collector match the circuit board. You can also use a MJE350 (PNP 300 volt transistor) or a 2N5416 with a "star" heat sink.
•Q4 = 2N5551 (NPN 140 volt transistor).
•Z3 = 1N4730A (3.9 volt 1 watt diode).
•ZR4 (Z4) = 1N4764A (100 volt, 1 watt) diode. Use 1N4763A (91 volt, 1 watt) diode instead (to increase score display life).
•R4 = 39k ohm, 1 or 2 watt flame proof resistor.
•R5 = 680 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•R6 = 330k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
•C4 = 0.1 mfd 250 volt metal polyester capacitor.

The regular (non-zener) diodes all look to be 1N4001 according to the schematic.

Yep.

ps (resized).PNG

The 1n400x diodes D-1 thru D-6 can be replace with upgraded 1n4007 diodes.

10uf 25volt electrolytic capacitors.

It's dirt. Only replace the the electrolytic caps.

Yay! Success is always a great end to a thread!