Do you have a logic probe?

It will certainly make this easier to repair.

Without knowing what troubleshooting has been done I would start with the following.

Check voltage at the coil

If there is voltage, make sure your switches work on that sling

If the switches work, make sure the coil is wired properly.

If there is no voltage, Check continuity from the coil to the driver board

If you have continuity from the coil to the pin, check the solder joints and crimps on the connection associated with that coil.

After that, I would continue to check continuity from that pin to the next, through the entire circuit.

If the coil does NOT work in test mode, on the driver board in the backbox,

Did you check Q71 (TIP 122)?
Did you check Q70 (the 2N4401)?

Those directly drive that coil. If Q70 is bad, I suggest replacing the TIP122 with a TIP102, a heavier-duty transistor.

You must mean Q71. Q70 is a 2N4401 according to the schematic. And if Q70 is blown out, Q71 will never get the signal to do its job. Did you check the transistor at Q70?

F14-right-sling (resized).jpg

Q69 is the pop bumper.

The pop bumper wont work without R-94.

No, buy a logic probe and test the CPU.

Do you have a multimeter? Better to test the transistors than start replacing them wholesale. You can test both of them in a couple minutes and verify if they're bad or not.

Nope. You can test them right in the machine.

Jump to the TO-220 instructions here:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=general#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29

New doesn't "always" mean good although I suspect something else is at play here. On the top side of your board use a multi meter set on continuity test and test one trace to the next component. Also you might want to see if you inadvertantly created a solder bridge. If so replace the components again.

I'd get a logic probe and follow Grumpy's instructions. He's a great tech, and you will get the game fixed if you follow his directions.

First disconnect J-18 and J-19 from the CPU board. This will stop further damage from happening. Connect the logic probe to the 5 volt and ground test points on the CPU board. Test the probe by touching it to ground, it should light the low led. Then test it for a high by touching the 5 volt test point.

If that checks out, then test all the wires on the connector J-18. Do any read low?

Did you test the coil to make sure it's not shorted? Sounds like maybe the bad coil blew the transistor(s) and now that you've fixed them, it's going to blow them again.

Also, did you replace the resistor at R101 or was that already done? It's the right value, but way overkill on the resistor size. Looks goofy.

Connector J18-3 is the switch for the (special solenoid #2) Right sling
Connector J19-4 is the solenoid drive for the(special solenoid #2) right sling

I'm assuming Grumpy is checking to see if the switch circuit isn't working properly on the board, but you'll have to wait until he replies to continue with his diagnostic flow.

The two green lights are grounds. The switches are stuck closed or the wire is shorted to ground.

It looks like the 2 low (green) signals were from the NC pins, so that should be fine. With the game on and in attract mode, test U-45 pins 4, 5 and 6. Let me know what you get.

You start at the notch of the chip and count in a counter clockwise direction.

pasted_image (resized).png

For other people following along you should say pin 5 high. Now most TTL chips are designed to duel outputs, a high or a low and not a in between signal. So you need to replace U-45 with a new chip and then we need to retest everything before connecting the coils again. Let me know when you get a new chip like this.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=7402

Make sure you socket it when you replace it. That way it's easy if it ever needs to be replaced again. No de-soldering.

(you break off as many pins as you need with these)

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/aries-electronics/40-0518-10/A460-ND/261892

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/SN7402N/296-33594-5-ND/1575110

Where are you? If you have a good electronics store, you might be able to walk in and just buy one rather than waiting on digikey and paying $8 to ship a $2 part.