Quoted from zaza:Keep the machine OFF. Only after inspection and find it safe to turn machine ON, then turn it ON to take measurements.
Can you make a picture of male and female plug J101 ?
Yes standy by...
(Topic ID: 163077)
Linked Games
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Crash:Looked at your photo again and holy crap, looks like you header is a 7 pin and your connector is 8 pin! And it's not a keyed connector, because connector pins are present in all 8 positions. Someone who had the game before you fixed it improperly. Looks like you may have plugged it in one spot over and shorted the blue wires to a common trace. No fault of your own, but situations like this are why technicians need to do a fix correctly so it won't cause problems for future owners.
You're lucky if you didn't melt the insulation on that wire harness. You're also lucky if you didn't damage the transformer...
OMG! What do you suggest I do here? I'm sure you are correct because the game was fine before I reseated the connector. How do I fix this issue?
Quoted from zaza:Ok, sleeping time here, Crash will help you out.
Thanks zaza! Check back later!
Los Angeles, CA
Quoted from Crash:Looked at your photo again and holy crap, looks like you header is a 7 pin and your connector is 8 pin! And it's not a keyed connector, because connector pins are present in all 8 positions. Someone who had the game before you fixed it improperly. Looks like you may have plugged it in one spot over and shorted the blue wires to a common trace. No fault of your own, but situations like this are why technicians need to do a fix correctly so it won't cause problems for future owners.
You're lucky if you didn't melt the insulation on that wire harness. You're also lucky if you didn't damage the transformer...
Crash, do you think I can reconnect it the "right" way and power the machine ON?
Quoted from Rarehero:I can snap a pic mine later tonite if no one else beats me to it!
Appreciate that sir
Quoted from KornFreak28:OMG! What do you suggest I do here? I'm sure you are correct because the game was fine before I reseated the connector. How do I fix this issue?
I would get a second opinion on that connector. It's a standard AC secondary input for WPC-89 machines. The connector (and possibly some wiring, if not the transformer also) will have to be replaced with a properly configured and properly keyed 7 pin connector. And if the short caused heat damage to the header pins on the driver board, that header will need to be replaced as well. You have two 9vAC windings coming from the transformer. The blue one is shared across 4 pins, the red one is two. With the power off, check for ohms resistance on a meter between the two blue wires, then between the two red wires. Tell us what the meter reads. Do this with the connector removed from the board.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Crash, do you think I can reconnect it the "right" way and power the machine ON?
Yes, but neither of us know how it should be connected. I would strongly suggest you don't until someone posts a photo and you're absolutely sure the pins/wire colors are in the correct positions.
Quoted from Crash:I would get a second opinion on that connector. It's a standard AC secondary input for WPC-89 machines. The connector (and possibly some wiring, if not the transformer also) will have to be replaced with a properly configured and properly keyed 7 pin connector. And if the short caused heat damage to the header pins on the driver board, that header will need to be replaced as well. You have two 9vAC windings coming from the transformer. The blue one is shared across 4 pins, the red one is two. With the power off, check for ohms resistance on a meter between the two blue wires, then between the two red wires. Tell us what the meter reads. Do this with the connector removed from the board.
Yes, but neither of us know how it should be connected. I would strongly suggest you don't until someone posts a photo and you're absolutely sure the pins/wire colors are in the correct positions.
Ok, I will try that in a little bit. I got to run to the store. I will be back shortly....
Perfect! So the key is the spot between the red and blue wires. If your transformer test is good (not a resistance reading of zero on either winding) then I would say you're safe. Line that spot up with the missing pin on the board header with the topmost pin hanging over, plug it in, and turn it on.
Quoted from Crash:Perfect! So the key is the spot between the red and blue wires. If your transformer test is good (not a resistance reading of zero on either winding) then I would say you're safe. Line that spot up with the missing pin on the board header with the topmost pin hanging over, plug it in, and turn it on.
And for gods sake order some damn keys! Will save you headaches in the future. Hate when I get a game in with missing keys... They are only a few cents at pbl
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1629
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4168
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:Does this help? I took a photo of J101 in one of my WPC games...
Yes!!! Thank you!!! I will try it as soon as I get home!!! Will let you guys know...hope it works...if it does, the flipper issue (original problem) will be there still 
Yeah, looks like he had it shifted down by one pin. That shorts together both sides of the transformer 13 volt winding (which makes the blue-white wires get very hot, very fast) 
Quoted from Syco54645:And for gods sake order some damn keys! Will save you headaches in the future. Hate when I get a game in with missing keys... They are only a few cents at pbl
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1629
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4168
Very true. Its just hard to spot these connectors until something like this happens
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:Yeah, looks like he had it shifted down by one pin. That shorts together both sides of the transformer 13 volt winding (which makes the blue-white wires get very hot, very fast)
Yeah cause I didn't know it was an 8 pin connector on a 7 pin header....i just pray my trasnformer is good
You need to check that melted wire very carefully. It's probably got bare spots with no insulation now. Make sure no bare spots touch anything metal and replace the wire as soon as you can.
Quoted from Crash:You will be good to go if the transformer windings test fine.
Thanks crash! Keeping fingers crossed. What do you think about the initial right flipper ending the game, game going completely dark and then going into attract mode when right flipper pressed? All the other solenoids and left flipper work great. What could be triggering that issue?
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:You need to check that melted wire very carefully. It's probably got bare spots with no insulation now. Make sure no bare spots touch anything metal and replace the wire as soon as you can.
Yes sir, I it does, i'll cover it with electrical tape until i change them out
Quoted from PinballManiac40:J101 pins 1 and 2 are burnt.
Dang, I was hoping they would be good... I wonder if you can scrape the pins down with a blade enough to test for now?
Well guys, great news!!! Machine turns on and starts a game! It was the 8 pin connector on a 7 pin header.
Thanks zaza, crash and all of you guys who helped me fix this issue. Paul...thanks for the picture of the connector!
Now, can you guys help me with the initial issue? The right flipper is still resetting the game back to attract mode. What do you guys think? Thanks!
Quoted from Crash:Dang, I was hoping they would be good... I wonder if you can scrape the pins down with a blade enough to test for now?
Yeah they are a bit dark but the game is good now except for the right flipper shutting the game off and back to attract mode
Quoted from KornFreak28:Well guys, great news!!! Machine turns on and starts a game! It was the 8 pin connector on a 7 pin header.
Thanks zaza, crash and all of you guys who helped me fix this issue. Paul...thanks for the picture of the connector!
Now, can you guys help me with the initial issue? The right flipper is still resetting the game back to attract mode. What do you guys think? Thanks!
Great, glad it works. Just may give you reset problems down the road due to a compromised connection. As for the initial problem, there is probably an open/bad diode on your upper or lower right flipper. Do you know how to check those?
With the machine off try putting a small screw driver or something similar under the diodes on the right flipper coil. Twist it back and forth a little and make sure one of your diode leads didn't detach from the diode. That can cause the problem you are having and it is quite easy to rule out.
Quoted from Crash:Great, glad it works. Just may give you reset problems down the road due to a compromised connection. As for the initial problem, there is probably an open/bad diode on your upper or lower right flipper. Do you know how to check those?
With continuity on meter right?
I did the continuity test on the diodes in the coils. One would beep and the other wouln't. But same thing happenned for the left flipper which works. Is that normal? Am I testing correctly?
Quoted from KornFreak28:I did the continuity test on the diodes in the coils. One would beep and the other wouln't. But same thing happenned for the left flipper which works. Is that normal? Am I testing correctly?
You can't check the diodes while they are connected. They only cost cents, just replace them and be done with it.
Section 4.5 on the pinwiki page gives a few suggestions.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Game_resets
Quoted from Homepin:You can't check the diodes while they are connected. They only cost cents, just replace them and be done with it.
Wow I didn't know that
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:Section 4.5 on the pinwiki page gives a few suggestions.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Game_resets
Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:So there is no way to check a diode?
Yes, but not while it is connected across a coil.
To measure it you would need to lift one end and if you do that you might as well lift both ends and replace it IMO.
Quoted from Homepin:Yes, but not while it is connected across a coil.
To measure it you would need to lift one end and if you do that you might as well lift both ends and replace it IMO.
Will place an order of diodes....sorry but i do not have any at the moment.
So you think for sure, my flipper reset issue a bad diode.... Or could I check other areas as well? Any suggestions? Thanks
Quoted from Karetaker:With the machine off try putting a small screw driver or something similar under the diodes on the right flipper coil. Twist it back and forth a little and make sure one of your diode leads didn't detach from the diode. That can cause the problem you are having and it is quite easy to rule out.
Let me try this
Quoted from KornFreak28:Will place an order of diodes....sorry but i do not have any at the moment.
So you think for sure, my flipper reset issue a bad diode.... Or could I check other areas as well? Any suggestions? Thanks
Certainly not "for sure" but a faulty diode can certainly cause these types of issues. They are a staple item to have in any pinball repair kit in any case.
Go for the 1N4007 as it will replace most others that you might encounter and is the same price as the lesser rated diodes.
Well I'm happy to report that after reseating the main ribbon cable going to the fliptronics board, the issue has gone away! Just played a few games and looks like that did the trick! Keeping my fingers crossed! Thanks all you you guys! You ROCK!!!! 
The J101 male header pins on the driver board and the wired connector to J101 still need to be replaced as this can cause resets when both flippers are pressed.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:The J101 male header pins on the driver board and the wired connector to J101 still need to be replaced as this can cause resets when both flippers are pressed.
Yes, I will change those out. My question is: Can I use a connector that crimp contacts instead of the currect connector that I have where the wire loops around it? Thanks
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yes, I will change those out. My question is: Can I use a connector that crimp contacts instead of the currect connector that I have where the wire loops around it? Thanks
Oh yes. The crimp pins are much more reliable if you get the 3 sides Trifurcon pins.
Quoted from Crash:You will also get heat buildup at this connector which will eventually do more damage.
Questions: Do I only change that connector and header? What about the actual wire that melted a little bit?
Can I use a different connector? I would like to use a conector with crimp contacts since I have those handy and are easy to do. Thanks
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
